@Julianpaul I'm curious as to what kind of differences exist between FI's and hyperedge's tanks?

Scratch it with - screwdriver and then spray the insides with plenty of WD40, I use to do it in my FIERO too.

Change the filter !
BTW I never got my injector cleaned in 2.5 years, I wonder cuz my car needs clean ups at 10000kms.
My main reason behind changing the filter frequently was saving myself from the process of cleaning the injector.


The gasket is ***** to source, TVS SC is always outta one, everytime.
When I got my tank cleaned up, we ended up fcuking the gasket as the rubber was brittle.
So my mech sealed up the pump using a rubber based adhesive.
And get your fuel pump checked too, as there's another filter in the pump and its position is so bad that over a time that filter will get a cut and can end up sucking the mug that gets collected in the tank.
My filter had one and TVS SC wasnt having the replacemet so we had to seal that one with a painstaking wire stitch.


Check the bend still, the pipe which goes in the filter from the tank.

Housing hole / gap of fuel pump.

HUGE hole for the fuel pump lol.

Hasn't anyone else noticed the new coating on the grey hyperedges? In the old ones, dude to the absence of lacquer, you could easily feel and even peel off the edge of the stickers with a fingernail. In the new ones, you can't disticntly feel the edges - a sign that clear coat has been used. Earlier they just skipped the lacquer to retain the matte finish, lacquer would make it glossy, now they use a special imported matte clear coat i've heard.

I thought of using wd40 for the fuse holder. I'm just wondering, don't cars that have the same blade fuses have the same problem?

I've used IOC xtra premium almost exclusively since i got my bike, the additives keep the injector clean. Changing the filter would not save the injector, what gets through will clog the injector anyway. The only reason to change the filter is when it get's so clogged, the flow rate is hampered.

I had ordered two gaskets from one svc and they didn't get it. Then ordered from another and they got it in two weeks. Yes, the old gasket does get very hard. If opened it will not seal again and should not be reused just like the manual says. Right now i'm stuck for the damn special bolts, the svc is not getting them in spite of trying for more than a month now.

I saw that stupid filter inside the pump. It's sealed in place with plastic rivets and cannot be changed. Only way would be to change the whole pump assembly. Hope mine doesn't break.

I had already checked all sensors and RR's o/p with multimeter as prescribed in service manual. All parameters are well within limits.
How would i get to know the main culprit by bypassing ignition and directing kill switch connections??

And i will definately check the fuel delivery system( pipes bend, fuel filter etc) for possible causes.
I had also observed that humming sound of fuel pump while riding is being changed ( read humming increased) from the past 1-2 weeks.


+1

I guess the filter you are talking about in fuel pump is kinda paper type and rectangular in shape, SVC guy also showed me old fuel pump assembly, pointed out that if color of that filter turns from white to yellow or blackish than it gets choked and it cannot be replaced separately, therefore one needs to buy whole new fuel pump assembly costing Rs. 5k..

As i said before, i had occasional missing and the engine would sometimes bog down and turn off completely too. This happened 3-4 times maximum. Once or twice myself and another time my brother said it happened. I had cleaned the ignition switch by squirting wd40 into it and the kill switch also with wd40 after completely disassembling it. And then when the fuses blew at the svc we found the wires from the ignition switch had melted the insulation and were shorting.

What you will need to do (with the help of a mech experienced with wiring) is find the two sockets inside the headlight dome. One is where the ignition switch plugs in. And the other is where the kill switch wire goes. Unplug both the switches. Loop a wire to short the pins for the ignition switch wires. Do the same for the kill switch. What you're doing is having the circuit complete without having to turn on the switches. I wish i could explain this simpler. I don't know the wire color codes by heart or i could have just told you which wires/pins to short. That's why i told you to consult an experienced mech. Just tell him to run the bike without the ignition and kill switches connected so that you can check if the switches are faulty and he should understand.

This will let you know if the problem is related to the ignition or kill switches, like i had. These two switches also get very dirty and corroded, so a thorough cleaning might help restore a good electrical contact. The kill switch should be completely disassembled (2-3 screws) till you can see the sliding white plastic pieces and the metal contacts. Not sure how much the ignition switch can be disassembled, so at least stick the wd40 nozzle into the key hole and spray, then operate the key off-on a few times. Re-spray 3-4 times to flush out all the crud.

If the fuel pump sound is louder/higher pitched, that means it is under more load. Just like a normal pump (water, etc.). There is either an obstruction on the output side or choking on the intake. But i really don't know who/where you can service it.

Go ahead, use it in loads, it keeps the mug at bay.
I do the same in my car too.


And I changed it frequently thinking it'd save the injector from the clogging


Fingers crossed !
Cuz mine was in very bad condition when we opened the thing, it was rusted pretty bad and wasnt working in a regular flow, there was variations in the pumping and my mech told me it'd be next in the replacemet list.

Its normal.
Just rest your ear to the center of the tank and blip the throttle to about 5000-6000 and see how the pump sounds when the revs drop, the variations in humming will surprise you !
It never hums in glued to some tune manner in idling too.


There's this bunch of wires taped to the chasis below the tank and one of them always gets short over the period of time.
Happened in my FIERO and FI too.
So when my FI's electricals started playing games and it was giving me trouble starting and wasnt idling I knew what to do.
The culprit is the red wire in the bunch whose insulation always melts.
Tape it up and you're done.

It cannot be serviced.
And I really never got the way that pump is made, I mean the design is very confusing.

Thanks for the detailed information.
Now i got your point.
BTW once i opened the left hand side switch assembly to see whether i could make parking lights, speedo lights to DC but found that the design of the contact points are not suitable for modification. This time i will try to open up the ignition switch cluster in the assembly for cleaning.


Before this problem, the only scenario when fuel pump humming changes is when you use pass switch or when signal lights gets on (though not very noticeable with signal lights). And the last time i remember the pump humming changes during a ride was when i reach pune after riding her for 2 days from delhi.

+1 to that.

The first thing most mechs check (after the fuses) in case of electrical problems is the bunch of wires next to the steering head. Due to the constant turning motion, the wires there break the soonest.

It's a submersible pump. It's designed to work underwater(petrol) only. So the sealing and casing design would be not easy to open. But any pump is definitely serviceable. You just need the right tools and to know how.

Hmm, now that you mentioned this, make sure your battery is running fine. Maybe use a known working battery temporarily to check...

@ Sarab: As you explianed , it seems to be electrical issue.
With fuelling issue, follwoing things will happedn:
1. Power drop at high RPMs, due to improper atomization or lean mix
2. In-consistent idling.

With ignition switch & kill switch proble, pump will get poor current supply due to restriction in ign switch and kil switch. at same time, ECU supply will get affected and ign coil as well.
Engine shut off will be in hap hazard manner. May not happen at high rpm, as engine will restart after missed ignition, due to inertia.


Remove the ign switch, followed by bottom steering lock plunger. Followed by 2 small scews inside, to remove contacts. Clean them up and re-assemble.
Clean the kill switch as well.

Also, you can opt to clean ign coil connector and RH switch connector as well. Use WD40, and dry thoroughly.

Ideally, this should sort the problem.

Most probably, the problem will be due to IGN switch only.

A little off topic but :

Like most people i don't like the new apache and i was seriously considering buying one.

I called TVS dealership in Delhi and asked them if they have the old Apache in stock, He told me only some dual-disc Apache 160 were present(it just slipped off my mind to ask him whether its Fi or Carb one) and i can get it. iasked him for a discount since i'm buying an old version, He said he can waive off 2000 and give it to me at 76600 OTR.
This was just a telephone conversation, i'm sure if i visit him and show genuine interest in it i will get more discount....

Should i go for it?

I'm sure it is a 160 hyperedge. The FI was stopped a good while ago. Do check it thoroughly before buying and ask for more discount

Thanks bro!!

Please give me a link to a PDI list. It would be helpful.
Yeah i will ask for more discount and check other dealers for availability of the old version 180/180 ABS too.

I like the old version and i guess they are bound to provide good service and parts for the old version for a long time.

You can also check the rate of discounts are being offered by S.K & MCR dealers if you haven't enquired from them yet. You can get the general PDI checks and other details on last few pages of rtr manual RTR 160 Service Manual

@ Nox, Julian, renny: thanx for the detailed description on the issue. I tried to open up the ignition switch but not able to open the whole thing as i could not open the two screws under the dome hence removed the one small screw at the bottom of ignition switch assembly by which a small shutter kinda thing opens up through which i could see some metal plates probably its a electrical contacts area hence sprayed anti rust liquid( named zorrick from pidilite). after this process almost ride 70kms, bike runs well without a missing though engine continues to get switch off 1-2 times in 20kms ride, i think its because of low idle rpm (sets at 1100-1200). Will fixed it to 1300-1400.

Thanks a ton man!!
And can i guess that you pointing out these two dealers means that they are good?
I mean you've had some good previous experiences with them, that's why you suggested their names...!!

And thanks for the link to the manual....
Also i'm curious to know what mileage does your beast returns??

I think S.K is the most renowned dealer here in west delhi along with MCR and K.K. I myself bought mine FI from S.K in 2008.

In normal riding condition ( shift at 4k-5k rpm) my Fi returns 50+ kmpl and on long himalayan tours it returns an average of 44-46kmpl. Btw best mileage i got so far was 57kmpl when i joined my first job after college days.