^^ I love these type of posts.At least some people know how to sort out things instead of cribbing to the max.

Please guys, Those of you are facing problems(serious) with the bike, try to contact higher authorities.It will save you a lot of your precious time.

my fi's run almost 10k kms - this might be why doesnt have any issues. but that's if you're talking about the bore being run in. fi related issues like missing and shutting down shouldn't have any relation with how many kms the bike has run.

btw, i did a really hard run-in. i prefer running near peak torque to avoid stressing engine components with low rpms in high gears.

riding near peak torque for long before proper mating of parts will result in higher wear of engine for sure. the issue of engine getting heated in 10-15kms is normal. though it feels to be overheated, there is no remarkable drop in performance.fi related issues are totally result of ecu, sensor and injector problems. at 10k kms, u may not feel engine to be overheated in short run. but its normal with new bikes. my RTR feels overheated within 10kms but it takes 100+ kms non stop runs without any prob. i have used RTR-Fi before and faced not a single issue with it.

the key to a proper run in is to feel the engine. if you're paying attention it will tell you what's going on. when it's ok to push it and when to ease up. the rtr is not my first bike. and i've been lucky to have some really experienced tuners as my gurus. but it's not easy for everyone to digest things which are difficult to understand. breaking away from the norm is the hardest thing to do. anyhow, the point is that it's better to keep the engine spinning at (seemingly) high rpms rather than load it at low rpms in high gears. the cylinder bore is not the only thing that wears out and experiences stress in an engine. and btw i've been running it hard since i bought it. not after xxxkms. running hard does not mean doing wheelies and burnouts on a new engine. nor does it mean redlining for long periods.

Exactly i want to explain the same thing. Everyone cant feel the engine. and in such cases, its better to not stress it. thats the reason company rates 1000kms of running-in. if one just goes on pushing bike off the show room at 80-90kmph or something, he will definately screw the engine. I have been working on my bikes and car at my own and havent visited mechanic since last 4-5 years(as i remember) i have already stretch my RTR after few kms of initial riding. the engine wont be loaded if u ride at 50kms in 5th gear on highways. if u keep riding in 3rd at 50, u are wasting fuel and nothing else. As i felt it, it was safe to cross 50 kmph after initial few kms. i never said hard running means performing stunts.

you seem to be on the right track. also agree about the 50kph in 5th thing. but you do know that while riding continously at 50 in 5th may not overheat the engine, it would not let your rings seal perfectly. anyways, that's not what i wanna talk about. i'm a bit confused with what you said earlier. about the engine overheating in 10-15km. and then said it will run for 100s without probs. since you are not pushing the engine, it shouldn't overheat right? and then how do you run it for so long. i'm sorry if i'm missing something but as i said, i'm confused. also trying to figure out if the rtr isn't able to take the heat with the current setup. what would be the solution then? a richer mix? and on the fi? i'm pretty sure the bike is running at the edge. of course tvs wants to give it's customers both power and mileage. i'm still a bit surprised that even when i run the bike at more than 7k rpm or usually over 100kph, i still get 40+kmpl. maybe it's a little too fuel efficient.

The overheating m talking about is engine generating more heat. The cylinder bore kept by TVS is always tighter(15-25 microns as i found) than honda, bajaj, ect, Thats the rason it feels to be overheated. The engine generates more heat faster than the air cooling u can get. The same issue was there with yamaha RD350, Shogun and samurais, RX135 (in case od RD, i got info from my uncle. i havent used it yet but eager to get one) .
And for long runs, as the engine gets heated, u get smoother run of piston. and air passing by keeps the engine sufficiently cool.

Tacho needle shakin said bye bye....

Yesterday i had a work 25kms away and tht too in the afternoon...(INDORE is burning!!!!!!) so instead of goin in car i decided to take FI to test its non stop run of 50kms (as i had work thr hardly of 10 mins)....

i drove it below 4000km for the first 2 km then i started ridin it real bad....

i maintained 6000RPM in each gear for about 10sec then immediately gave the accelarator and my each shift was happening at 11000RPM....
after about 10kms the tacho needle which was shakin wildly after 8000RPM got smooth as hell till 11000RPM....(i didnt touched 12000)

after 25km of hammering real hard,with 115-125kmph maintained for 18kms(it was long straight stretch) i reached the place the engine was super hot i did my work and left...

while i was returnin i drove it slow for 5 kms and thr was no missing,jerking which are the said 'trademarks' of FI and for the first time riding between 2500-4000 felt heaven to me.....

but tht party was gettin boring for me so i started ripping it again so i decided to shift each gear at 12000 this time...

1gear it touched 12000,2 also 12000 from third it was going to 11500 and was not goin beyond tht...and after so long i was able to see the readings clearly as the tacho needle was not at all shaking...11500 was achieved in 4 as well and top speed i managed was 127kmph....

after my ride of 50km and sudden vanishin of issues of FI....
man.....strange things do happens with this machine!!!!!!!!!!

125kmph good !!!

i have a query
during a ride when i blow my horn,the rmp needle goes up even if i am at a constant speed.now why is that?

tht's surely a electrical prob mainly the wiring (the bundle you see comin out of the speedo must be having one corrupted wire)

my FIERO had this prob once tht when ever i used to blow horn the fuel guage use to show full when i took it to the serv the same bunch of wirin was the culprit...

get it done under warranty.....

check your battery too. This happens when the battery is kaput also.

Even The Fuse Would Gone Almost Right ?

I noticed this an year back on my RTR and its still there......mech's worked their ass's off but could'nt find a reason. later we found that all the RTR's had the same problem, did'nt check the fi's though......design flaw may be

This may happening due to EMI(Electromagnetic interference). Replace stock RPM meter cable to Shielded one this may solve the problem. Uni and Hunk using this type of cable by default. For more details check Electromagnetic interference - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Sai, I will be looking forward to your updates.