"missing" turned "flat spot"

the missing area of the FI (1500-3000) has now turned to flat spot...
this happens with moderate to super hot engine...
the bike is feeling dead in this particular area earlier it used to recover with little more throttle openings but now tht's not seem to work either....

experts'.......
any comments....

and on the ABS crap.....

do you guys think we need a ABS in the country whr each rider spends 80% of his riding in city (which hardly requires even the rear disc) and whr the most powerfull bike has 220cc's and 20 odd ps.....

so guys leave it....
we should consider ourselves lucky tht nowadays atleast we're getting standard front disc and optional rear discs....(standard in RTR FI,220,R15)

(even R1,GSXR1000,ZX10,R6 are not having them so i dont think we need them in our oh so powerfull bikes starting from 150cc's and ending at 220............

14T sprocket is always larger than 13T. The matter is not of shorter chain u need to increase the slackness. You have to push rear wheel to front side. In my case, it is nearly set on front end, with 3-4 cm slackness.

Do as follows:
Loosen rear wheel and rear sprocket hub nut(larger on left side of bike).
slack the chain
change the sprocket
adjust chain slackness to 3-4 cm
tighten the rear wheel

Its chain hitting chain cover for sure. adjust the slackness.

even i had faced similar problems. the Service Engineer intially replaced the ECU but stil the problem wasnt recrtified.. later spark plug was changed....still same problem....then the inital ECU was again put on and the Fuel Injector was cleaned (it was this time that the other guys too had started complaining and then the solution....i.e 'replacement of the O-ring' was known.....so the O-ring was changed too) ...still no change.....finally on 26th December, i got the Fuel Injector assembly changed (that's when finally i got pissed up and asked the service engineer to give me a written statement saying that my bike was perfect....he dint want any further complications n he finally replaced the Fuel injector assembly )
since then, my bike hasnt faced the "missing" problem...touch wood..

Nowadays even am noticing the flat spot on the RTR fi especially once its hot. Not much of an issue with a cold engine. Bike kinda hesitates and then takes off. Also yesterday I noticed that the head tappet cover was leaking oil!! Weird, its been just 3.5K kms since I bought it and 1.5K or so kms since last oil change and its already started to leak. Will call up the TVS guys today and check.

Agreed, I was only talking about the logic where it was said that it needs to work in co-ordination with front & rear tires which is not the case

Brake-light wire issue solved

I just remembered that i always mention problems but forget to detail solved issues. lol. so here's the update on the brake light wire.

for those that dont know the story so far, the brake light wire under the seat has a small coupler section which can be detached from the main wiring. this coupler cable has a resistor soldered across the two live wires and is probably for regulation. the resistor had burned up and also screwed the insulating sleeves. when i approached the svc the @$$0le manager tried to somehow pin it on me, then said that the cable isn't available separately and only came with the whole tail-light assembly. after a brief 'discussion' i told him to order the part and also spoke to the tvs svc head in pune. no use.

after about 3 weeks i spoke to the owner of the dealership, kapoor tvs, and he said he'll look into it. shortly after i got a call from the svc saying come and get it!

went there and the manager (@$$0le) wasnt there. the parts dude actually ripped open a new tail-ligh box and removed the coupler wire and gave it to me. he then referred to the parts manual and then the computer, presumably to check the price, dunno if he couldn't find it or it was too cheap, either way he said 'it's ok sir, come back later'.

so once again, the dealer comes to the rescue. my advice to all? if you can't be best friends with the svc managers like satish, try to patau the dealer atleast when buying the bike. it's much easier. and they help more/faster than when you contact higher-ups (in my case)

maybe its a good thing that i bought the carb...Anyways, i think there are some more hidden changes in the refresh model though. For example, i was next to the first gen RTR in traffic..the rider's legs were a bit forward than mine and not so bent...maybe indicating the rear-sets were a bit forward on that model. Also, my gf has sat pillion on the old RTR and has told me that it was higher and really uncomfortable. I think the overall height of the refresh has been lowered.

I'm not sure about the bodywork, but the silencer has a different beat for the Refresh for sure!

i understand your point. but SP was right in the basic concept of abs, atleast for cars. ideally, the ecu must detect a lock situation before it happens. a basic way in which abs works is it analyses and compares wheel speed for all four wheels. when one wheel is moving at a diff speed from the others it identifies it as a traction issue. now depending of the level of implementation, this could be handled by abs if that's all that's there or tcs, etc if they're present. so co-ordination between wheels IS a basic system in abs.

edit: see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lo...stem#Operation

again its very diff for bikes. the very rules of physics that dictate two wheeler movement like gyroscopic precession mean that abs cannot just be ported from cars to bikes and expected to work the same way. from what i've learned, electronics like ignition control and hardware like slipper clutches as used on race bikes work better than abs to make the bikes easier to ride.

where i think abs will really work is heavy tourers and cruisers like the goldwing where the weight of the bike makes it difficult to accurately judge the lock point and when you do reach it, you may not be able to save the bike from skidding. and i'm talking about true abs, not the valve thingie.

afaik, the seat height of the refresh/fi is 50mm higher than the old rtr. and i think the overall height is unchanged. nobody who i contacted is able to confirm either though. got this info from the brochures (online, not printed). can somebody who has tech info from tvs confirm?

How to Do it?????

umm, this is a pg-13 forum. can't provide explicit details here. lol j/k

maybe if your question was clearer ...

Hey Julian, the insulating sleeve on my bike for the brake cable is in brown color too. It looks like its subjected to a great heat. I just put another sleeve on it and taped the damn thing up! Lets see what happens...

gosh leakin head at 3500kms.....man.................!!!!!!!!

the sleeve is originally cream/yellow in colour. mine had become brown and was frayed badly, all the fibres were spread out and exposed the resistor.

thing is the damn thing still worked. now if the resistor has burnt up it means it isnt functioning. so its useless. so whatever regulation it's supposed to do isn't happening. but the brake light works even without the coupler so we dont know for sure if the resistor is blown or not without testing it with a multimeter. it's not a nice situation to be in especially when the tail-light costs so much.

if only someone could explain exactly what the resistor does. Joel ?

i have a limited understanding of electronics implementation. i know that connecting a resistor in series limits current flowing through the circuit and connecting it in parallel drops voltage. but wtf happens when the damn resistor is connected ACROSS two different live circuits. with a common ground.