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  • Originally posted by Aparajith View Post
    ^^AMARON is a good sealed battery..!
    OK, so Amaron be it, but which battery to buy for a RTR, i mean any voltage, current flow specs ??? any partiucular model number ?

    one more query, what is the spec of FZ's headlight bulb ?? will that run on our battery without any coil mod ??
    http://www.throughmysenses.com/

    Comment


    • For battery specs, check the manual yaar. I think its a 12V - 9Ah. And the FZ uses our same 35/35W bulb only. It just runs on DC. Thats it!
      Democracy is when 2 wolves and a sheep meet to decide who is for dinner. Liberty is when the sheep has a gun.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by psycho28 View Post
        OK, so Amaron be it, but which battery to buy for a RTR, i mean any voltage, current flow specs ??? any partiucular model number ?

        one more query, what is the spec of FZ's headlight bulb ?? will that run on our battery without any coil mod ??
        You need a 12v 9ah battery, Fz has only 35/35 stup, you can try 55/60 in a RTR but need to covert it to DC
        sigpic

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        • I am thinking of installing +ve driven relay for horns on RTR. Is it needed?
          There's lot to it other than saddle....


          sigpic

          Comment


          • What's that/..?
            Speak Less,Speak Wise!

            Sarcasm is my automatic response to stupidity.

            Comment


            • Is it possible to get the tvs fi system diagnostic software

              Hi all
              i am just curious if its at all possible to get the pc diagnostic software that tvs uses to tune the fi system, if anybody has any idea regarding this plz post comments
              Thanks in advance

              Comment


              • You Can Hack it!
                Speak Less,Speak Wise!

                Sarcasm is my automatic response to stupidity.

                Comment


                • Originally posted by falcon View Post
                  Hi all
                  i am just curious if its at all possible to get the pc diagnostic software that tvs uses to tune the fi system, if anybody has any idea regarding this plz post comments
                  Thanks in advance
                  i dont think u can get it ne where, unless someone from the Service center is ready to give it to you....

                  ne ways if u get it, even i wud like to lay my hands on it....lemme know it aswell...

                  Comment


                  • Gear shift and play

                    @Renny especially.

                    finally went to the mech. needed to lower my gear lever by about 10-20mm so it would match the brake pedal position. no play in my shifter. and a friend's p180 which we converted to p200 rearsets had about 1-inch of play in the lever.

                    what we found out was that the adjustable tie-rod in the linkage can only be used to fine tune the position of the lever. when you move the position of the 'boss' on the gear shaft, it moves the lever drastically, like almost one whole inch down. so the adjuster lets you make smaller adjustments. i thought it would help remove the play first and then make the adjustments. didn't work that way.

                    the reason for the huge play in the pulsar's shifter was that the rivet on the boss which holds the little piece into which the tie-rod screws was kinda broken. it was moving around a lot and this caused the play. will have to weld it to stop it moving around. you need to check the rivets, both at the boss end, and the lever end and see if they're loose. that should solve the play problem.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by kk_RTR View Post
                      i dont think u can get it ne where, unless someone from the Service center is ready to give it to you....

                      ne ways if u get it, even i wud like to lay my hands on it....lemme know it aswell...
                      well we are having Delphi ecu on rtr fi so may be we can try the KWP 2000+ software the kit might be costing some what around 2500inr google it "KWP Tools" KWP2000 ECU PLUS FLASHER CHIP TUNING OBD KWP 2000 REMAP Diagnostic Tool Manufacturer, Buyer, Supplier, Importer, Exporter, Manufacturers, Buyers, Suppliers, Importers & Exporters - ECPlaza

                      check this out , most obviously it will work with the ecu , and yeah desparetely trying to gather the software , cause honestly its possible to remap the ecu and get much much better throttle response etc, will keep looking for svc guys if they can provide the hardware cable for once so that i can check the pin arrangements and then need to make a copy of the software LOL , dunno if thats at all possible, basically what i knew from a source is tvs have got a setting interface so that the map originally doesnt get altered , so for that we need to backup the main config file and save in hdd then modify the copy on the ecu , man i need the software some how

                      plz keep looking guys if you get any copy of the software or may be take the pin settings for the hardware cable that has one end serial port and the other is for the ecu interface.
                      Last edited by falcon; 06-03-2009, 10:15 PM.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by insanebiker View Post
                        One of my close friends, who had also bought his RTR carb from Coimbatore( I forgot the dealer) faced this same issue.

                        He took delivery and next day, his battery was fully dead.

                        Reason : The alternator charging circuit was open at some point and hence the battery was not charging.

                        Bingo !!!
                        Today morning though the battery was too low, i kick started the bike to take it for the pooja ( thinking that alternator might charge the bike in running) . On way to temple the battery again became too weak and the bike stopped. It refused to start again. I was down wit the bike at 6 in the morning
                        After about 2 hours, the service center guys came and had a look at it. I also was there. As you mentioned, the alternator was not connected to the battery. The damn service ppl didn even carry out the pdi it seems.
                        Now the bike has been returned from the svc centre. The battery has been replaced. The bike is now in good condition.
                        Tomorro again taking the bike for pooja....hope this time it won show any problem

                        Thanks a tonne for helping me out !!!

                        Comment


                        • U r welcome buddy. Am happy that ur problem is solved
                          When everything comes ur way, u r in the wrong way ;)

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by hariraman View Post
                            on the second day of ownership i have started getting pi$$ed off with tvs
                            Today rode the bike for abt 30 kms under 40-50 kmph and then went to change the rear tyre to 110/90 - 18 MRF zapper -q .
                            On return when i tried to start the vehicle, the system was continuosly restarting. ie, the console wud lit up, tacho will jump to max n come back, and then again console lit up and again meter jumping and so on. Then when i tried to self start, the battery sign came on console.
                            Didn think much and self kicked. Thankfully the bike replied n started. Started way back home. Time was already late and so couldn show to service center.
                            The battery is totally down as even horn is not working.
                            & i have not used the electricals of the bike heavily other than the fuel pump.

                            Also i notice that the idle rpm is little up to 1800rpm.
                            What might be the issue?
                            You mean like this??

                            YouTube - My bike gone mad




                            Originally posted by jasmeetsinghchawla View Post
                            Thats the faulty ignition cum lock, it gets short i dont know how but it happened to my bike a week ago and the showroom people repaired it, cause electrical are not under warranty.
                            My RTR's igniton was changed twice for the same reason.....i still hve this problem once in a while.....
                            07 HH Zma
                            11 Honda Aviator DLX
                            14 Ford Figo 1.4 TDCI (Now Caged:( )
                            16 Scooty Zest
                            11 CBR 250R

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by onlinesatish View Post
                              You mean like this??

                              YouTube - My bike gone mad

                              I am thinking of writing a recommendation letter to TVS for considering specimen preservation of your bike.
                              HH Karizma (Current) || CBF Stunner PGM-FI || Honda CB Unicorn Dazzler
                              Honda Aviator || Kinetic Flyte || Kinetic Blaze || HH Splendor

                              Two ZMAs, 9 Days in Western Ghats

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
                                @Renny especially.

                                finally went to the mech. needed to lower my gear lever by about 10-20mm so it would match the brake pedal position. no play in my shifter. and a friend's p180 which we converted to p200 rearsets had about 1-inch of play in the lever.

                                what we found out was that the adjustable tie-rod in the linkage can only be used to fine tune the position of the lever. when you move the position of the 'boss' on the gear shaft, it moves the lever drastically, like almost one whole inch down. so the adjuster lets you make smaller adjustments. i thought it would help remove the play first and then make the adjustments. didn't work that way.

                                the reason for the huge play in the pulsar's shifter was that the rivet on the boss which holds the little piece into which the tie-rod screws was kinda broken. it was moving around a lot and this caused the play. will have to weld it to stop it moving around. you need to check the rivets, both at the boss end, and the lever end and see if they're loose. that should solve the play problem.
                                finally.............!!!!!!!!!
                                my play is about one whole inch too and my mech said he'll be fixing it out and told me it's from the 'inside'.......
                                The Magician"

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