Never use water while cleaning the carb.No matter how hard you try but there always be some amount of moisture hidden inside the components. The best way to clean is petrol if you are not able to get your hands on a carb cleaner. About the WD-40 i really dont know but i thing it should be good but be careful of it not getting in touch with the packing/washers(rubber materials) etc.

This is not due to the tight tappets, if it was, it would have never touched 124...

Check the coil for it's current throw and check the two main fuses, which are housed in the box next to the battery, they make a huge diff if they get coated, i never faced this in my FI, but in my FIERO, it used to ride blunt when there was coat on them..

Dont waste 4K's on carb, instead replace the main jet with the 180 and see what diff it makes.

Dont use water to clean the carb and dont use any addictives, the best is to find a regular toothbrush and a paint brush, soak them and the carb with the jets opened in the petrol for 15 mins then clean the carb using the paintbrush and clean the jets using the toothbrush.

After that get yourself the fine wire which is used in the fuse and clean each holes of the jets with it and then again rub it with the toothbrush soaked in the petrol.
This is the best way to clean the carb.

NEVER use WD-40 in cleaning the carb, it never cleans it like the petrol with the fuse wire and toothbrush combo, does...
And you'll end up wasting it all, and the bike will show you hiccups too till it evaporates dry/mixes with petrol/gets floushed by petrol, from the carb.

i tried it in my FIERO's carb.


The pedal cannot be lowered to the max limit the rod has, as after a certain point it will go beyond the point where the holes of the inverted "U" and pedal connector matches.

And dont forget to set the brake light switch.

3M India: Choke and Carb Cleaner

WD-40 is a bad idea for carbs. If you don't wanna use carb cleaner just stick to petrol.

I'm actually against using any kind of abrasive material to clean smooth surfaces, not just for bikes but anything. Always use a material that's much softer than the target material. For example, the nylon of the toothbrush is fine. Reason is, the wire will create minute scratches in the jet, which in turn will trap more gunk later on.

Removed it long ago, i do so on all my bikes. Too many failures and blown bulbs because of stuck switches. Besides i use the front more.

Hmmmm. will check the fuses then. Seems they are the culprit. I have cleaned the carb jets and carb. Cleaned jets with fine copper wire. Didn't rubbed it harder inside holes though. Thought of not using petrol, as jets are all time in contact of the same. Prior to reassembly, Jets were glossy clean and all holes were in perfect shape and completely clear.

@ Renny, how do you expect me to check the current throw? you want me to get that 35000V DC Zataka??

na actually i meant just putting it inside the hole and taking in out, not rubbing it.
But i dont think scratches on the jets will make matters worse, or do they??


i meant at the SC, at home you can check the spark at the plug by resting it at the frame and thumbing the bike to see if it's sparking all fine..

Rub the contact surface of the fuses with sand paper and fit them back.

"Painting" done...

As i posted earlier, the swingarm of my bike from the starting side was rusting a bit, so today i painted it after rubbing with a fine sandpaper.

The painting was done at the bottom side from where it starts, so the hell of a diff in paint is not visible, similarly my side stand lost the paint from the bottom, so painted it too.

The plates of the chain tighting adjustor screws were also painted, cuz they lost their colour too.

guys, after riding for about 10kms, i feel too much of heat is getting liberated.. and same with the petrol tank. is tat common?
and bike is just 6 days old. am not satisfied with the polish that showroom guys did while giving delivery. am planning to give for a polish and a teflon coating. any comments on this? any suggestions on where to do this in chennai?

Hot air in the legs and the thigh area of the tank is common with RTR, specially in the FI i'll say..
What's your model? FI or Carbed?

Showroom guys use the worst polish and do it in the $hitty way.
If you want a teflon coating get it done from the reouted shop, specializing in that.

Battery or what?

Form last few weeks I feel that my battery is down. Although it takes the self without any hassle. But when I use the brake light & side indicator at the same time pressing the horn, sounds low. But after switch off the side indicators and BL, the horn comes to its normal sound.
Yesterday go to a batterywalla (Amaron) for replacing the battery, he clearly tell me that if your bike take self without any problem, then no need to change the battery, he was insisting me to check the horn and wirings. I was in doubt, cause some of my friend told me, it happens only when one or two cell of your battery is bad.

Whats the remedy?

Top it up with distilled water, then Clean the main connectors with sandpaper and bolt them in, after that apply "vaseline".
this will solve the issue.

the speedo shows my top speed as 160!
Is it some kinda bug??

It shows 160 when it resets itself.
And it resets itself every now and then, cuz it has got the mind of it's own, just like the fuel bars.

but the other data such as 0-60 time ,odo are intact......

Even after that also, I tried all these things first and then write it here. Nowadays I also found some sulpher marks near battery box. What does this mean. My battery is stock & 2.4 months old. Previously never see the sulpher patches.

I think its due to battery only. Same case used to happen with my Fiat also. Fiat used to take 20-25 selfs till its in daily use. Kepp it un-used for couple of weeks and battery used to do all that naatak.