Renny, how is related to engine oil man? Decarbonization is process done for combustion chamber only. and if piston rings are good, no way oil can do anything to it.

I gave stress on the OIL cuz there are people who do "fill it, shut it , forget it" with the engine oils till the engine consumes the full of it or it gets full of the sludge like thing..

My friend has a pulsar and he's just too careless in mainting bikes and all he used to do was top up the oil and never changed it, and when my friend mech suggested a engine decarb his whole piston was covered with blackkish substance,and was in very bad shape...

All this in 19000km done bike...

I just asked the same thing at the svc. He said they have a can of engine flush which works without opening the engine or head. Dunno where they pour it in exactly. Costs Rs. 350 odd. Otherwise the labour for opening the engine for a manual decarb is again Rs. 350.

I would definitely suggest against opening the engine, will have to research more about the engine flush cans to recommend or try that.

Live Update: Having a major fck up trying to get my bike serviced. came early morn, first customer, still theyre saying they can only return the bike tomorrow eve. too many pending bikes. plus the 8th paid service is 275/- Wanted the fork seal/oil changed and the cone set greased. they say all this will cost extra labour to the tune of 3-400bucks. i'd rather go to my mech who'll do this for like 100-150 and do a better job. will post more later

Decarb can also be done by using 'Decarb agents', it is true. It works. I have tried it in my car. Now, please donot kill me for the thing that cars are different, For me both are machines and do a similar job by similar pattern.

AFAIK, a manual decarb too doesnot needs engine tobe opened. There is a machine that fits somewhere(i did'nt remembered). But, again that was too done with my car.

And i never trust those engine flush thing, i mean i never got the process like how they work.


Anyday it's much better and superb option.

Update from ASC and Spares Dealer

@chicane checked my silencer for excess soot. there's practically nothing. not much powder or anything and not anything oily. i'm surprised really, expected a lot more crap on the exhaust. i'm talking about the inside of the little tube that comes out of the silencer. dunno if you wanted me to check some other hole!

@abhiwar

Prices from ASC

swing arm bushes 200
cone set 350
sprocket bush (drum rubber) 200
fork oil seal 80

More prices from spares dealer

cone set 450 (i think he gave an approx price, he can't be 100 bucks more than the asc)
fork oil seal 75
swingarm bushes 150
drum rubber 100
fork oil 100
spark plug 130
brake pads 360

The asc says the engine flush is for 450. But the can is available at the dealer for only 195. it has to be poured into the oil. then the engine run at idle for 3 mins. then oil drained. the can says this will remove sludge from the engine. but the asc insists that it will clean like a decarb. total BS. how does oil go into the combustion chamber and clean the piston top etc i don't know.

He had a carb cleaner for 200. big can. i think the brand was bosny, the same one that makes spray paint. said it'll work for the injector.

tyres (maybe i should post this in the 180 thread, that's become the unofficial tyre thread )

Zapper Q 90/90-18 1550
Pirelli 100/80-17 front 2500
Pirelli 110/90-18 rear 3600

p.s. posting from a friend's place near the asc. damn manager says they can only do the bike tomorrow. so i can either leave it this eve or bring it back tomorrow morning. he'll return it tomorrow eve. i'm only gonna do the regular service from them. this is for the 6 months left in warranty. then i have to give the bike to my other mech on sat for the rest of the work. getting sick and tired of this. all this pre-monsoon work has everybody extra busy. why do we all remember to service just before the rains.

It's the only hole form where you can check that.....


If it has to be mixed with oil then it can clean nothing, that too in 3 mins...

I had a talk with the FORD guy who looks after my car, he said bring the injector of the bike after opening it, he'll be cleaning it, as he has the best injector cleaner FORD provides.
Sounds strange but he told he'll do it.

Q for 1550 sounds yummy...
you enquired for the 100 and 110???


NOX i saw this at R15 thread...
light on the bolds please.

Hahaha!!

Well it's kinda surprising but then if you find too much of oil drinking issues with your bike then it calls in for a complete diagnosis (read: valves, piston(rings), bore,compression test etc)

A compression test would make it even more clearer to check if the bike's piston rings are leaking or not.

The RTR i own is third RTR i am using. 1st RTR i used for 6-8 months was belonging to my friend who shifted to delhi for 6 months after buying the RTR. Just not to keep it idle, he gave it to me for use.
It was first edition black RTR, on which i did lots of experiments. That bike used to heat a lot. To solve the problem, i bought windshield washer spray can of maruti 800 from Kurla and and wired it with a press switch and 4 water spray nozzles on 4 sides of block. This setup used to work brilliantly to cool of the wngine but screwed the block, which was replaced afterward under warranty. The culprit behind heating was carburetor, which was replaced along with block and piston.

2nd RTR i used was Fi, which i used for 2-3 months.
No experiments on it, but only practical study of entire Fi setup.

I have used cyclone engine flush 200ml on my Fiat (can costed 160/- 2 yrs ago). That removed sludge almost completely. Engine flush means removal of sludge only and not decarbonize. I decarbonized Fiat's engine when i opened it to change engine ghasket.

Zapper Q for 1550?? pick it right now. I have paid 1650 for tube type zapper-c 3.00-18 for my victor. Post the pics of Zapper-q after installation on your bike.

comment on bolds: thats the intelligence of TVS SVC guys. beyond our imagination.

WO!!!
That was innovative ha!!!
But yes spraying of water on the hot engine is not recommended, several auto mags also states this.

I had this idea of putting petrol with oil (then one which is being drained at the time of oil change) in the ratio of 50:50.
pour it into the chamber and rock the whole bike at the centre stand without starting it, then pour the remaining half a litre of oil to take on the petrol if left behind and then pour the new oil.

I had a chat with my mech about this and he said that since the Fi has a leaner mixture there would be even less carbon. He said don't bother with opening the head, just use some additives in petrol to slowly remove carbon. He also recommended System-G for keeping the injector takatak!

Your KB, being a 2-stroke would have even more carbon because strokers burn 2t with the petrol. So i think we're safe on the decarb front.

Renny, i just read this a couple days ago in the svc manual, it says not to touch the injector unless the ecu/diagnostic tool reports some problem. So i would highly suggest AGAINST removing it from the intake manifold. There are multiple seals and stuff which could prove expensive and troublesome to replace. We're doing this just for our peace of mind, not because there's something wrong with the injector. So don't bother too much. If possible, clean the injector when it's still attached or just let it run as it is. Try taking the whole bike to him if possible.

As soon as i saw no soot, i thought compression test too. Only other way is to open the bike and measure the rings for wear, which these jackasses aren't going to do i'm sure. Heck, they can't measure a disc brake for 3.5mm min thickness so forget piston ring clearance in μm.

This can was Rs. 195/- for ~435ml. Some ARDO brand, can't remember. I guess 3 mins running will clean sludge completely. I used the petrol method a couple times on my boxer but stopped when i feared it would damage the clutch plates. Btw, does anyone know if the mechasses clean the oil sump filter which is mentioned every alternate service i think, or they just ignore it?
I will probably decarb only if the bike starts showing some problems. I've set 50k as the limit.

The bolds comes with peace of mind, and ya i agree with you, being a FI it wont trouble us that much on carbon front.


I'am also not comfortable with the thing he told me, since with the FI it's best to stick with the line "If it's ain't broke, don't fix it".

For the injector "cleaning" this is what i do, i pull my bike to 6000RPM in 2 gear then i take it to 7000RPM, maintain it for about 15-20 secs then 8000RPM again 10-15 secs then shift at 10000RPM.



I've no idea how's a compression test is done??
i mean what are the tools/machines used in that?
does it require whole engine opening??


BEST.


1750 for 100/90 sounds good, as it's almost as wide as 110/115.

I'll strongly recommend you to shell out bucks for the FS for the front, before the rains, you can stretch the rear though...

one one more thing at how much kms you changed the plug??

Hehe, i used to do that with my RD first thing after warming up the engine. That's the best way to clear the plugs, which 2-strokes are notorious for fouling.
For injectors though, the deposits from petrol accumulate over a period of time. So a sudden blast of high-pressure fuel isn't really gonna shake em off. They need to be dissolved which is where carb/injector cleaner comes into the picture.

A compression tester, which is threaded into the spark plug hole. The engine is then cranked either by starter or kick.

I'm thinking 90/90. Think it's enough for the bike while giving better performance/mileage than a 100 section. Mainly because 90/90 would give a profile of 81m which is just 1mm more than stock rather than 100/90 which is 10mm more. But that isn't really gonna make a diff. Let's see.

Front i might change after i finish the rest of the work on the bike. My weekend's screwed, tomorrow at the ASC for the normal service, Sat at the local mech to fix the fork oil seal and steering bearings.

My bike's done 16,3XXkm. I dunno if i've become lazy but i've never changed the plug, not even opened it once to check the burn! Will change tomorrow, but only if it looks really bad and is worn beyond spec. I used to replace my parts more frequently than required but I stopped once i learnt it doesn't really benefit the bike and just wastes money.

7th service

today did 7th service of my RTR. Bill was as follows:
1. 53/- drain bolt
2. 279/- Power1
3. 30/- filter
4. 200/- Service charges

Bad News:
Tapping in crank case for another long bolt also gave way. The SVC guy hammered another bolt also and installed it. He suggested to keep bike for a day. but as it was not possible for me, he said in next service, he will unmount the engine, open up clutch plate cover and take engine to lathe-wala (Machinist) and get it fixed by inserting brass bushes and retapping them to original specifiations. For that, i will need to keep the bike there for for two days.