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**nox2505** · 06-10-2010, 11:31 PM

Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post

I've no idea how's a compression test is done??
i mean what are the tools/machines used in that?
does it require whole engine opening??

No. to check compression pressure, a pressure guage is used similar to one used to check tire pressure. Only thing is, it fits in spark plug threads. As you crank the engine, it notes the pressure achieved. That is comp. pressure.

**julianpaul** · 06-11-2010, 12:01 AM

Originally posted by nox2505 View Post

today did 7th service of my RTR. Bill was as follows:
1. 53/- drain bolt
2. 279/- Power1
3. 30/- filter
4. 200/- Service charges

Bad News:
Tapping in crank case for another long bolt also gave way. The SVC guy hammered another bolt also and installed it. He suggested to keep bike for a day. but as it was not possible for me, he said in next service, he will unmount the engine, open up clutch plate cover and take engine to lathe-wala (Machinist) and get it fixed by inserting brass bushes and retapping them to original specifiations. For that, i will need to keep the bike there for for two days.

Where did you do the service? Why is kapoor tvs, vashi charging me 275 then? aren't the rates uniform?

How did your drain hole thread strip? Yeah, a brass insert is the best way as long as they do it right. these turners are iffy, some of them do such awesome jobs, others F it up bigtime. I would suggest going to a turner yourself if you can get someone to open up the crankcase for you. might be faster than leaving it at the svc for 2 days.

**Puneet1** · 06-11-2010, 12:04 AM

@Nox2505 - what all was done in the 7th service ? im also going in for 7th service in few days . they charged me 155rs last time .

**kk_RTR** · 06-11-2010, 02:03 AM

Originally posted by julianpaul View Post

I had a chat with my mech about this and he said that since the Fi has a leaner mixture there would be even less carbon. He said don't bother with opening the head, just use some additives in petrol to slowly remove carbon. He also recommended System-G for keeping the injector takatak!

FI doesn't run lean coz if it was, it wouldnt have made more power. And the whole idea of shifting from carb to Fuel injection is to cater to the engine's demand in a precise manner which cannot be accomplished by using a carb.

Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post

For the injector "cleaning" this is what i do, i pull my bike to 6000RPM in 2 gear then i take it to 7000RPM, maintain it for about 15-20 secs then 8000RPM again 10-15 secs then shift at 10000RPM.

That's innovative !!!
But it wont be of any help as in RTR FI, the injection takes place at constant pressure differential (in case u think that opening the throttle will result in an incresed pressure across the injector thus cleaning it)

**julianpaul** · 06-11-2010, 03:28 AM

Originally posted by kk_RTR View Post

FI doesn't run lean coz if it was, it wouldnt have made more power. And the whole idea of shifting from carb to Fuel injection is to cater to the engine's demand in a precise manner which cannot be accomplished by using a carb.

If it weren't leaner overall compared to the carb 160, it wouldn't give better fuel economy. Think about it. What would be more accurate to say is that the Fi is probably closer to stoich than the carb which would be richer, overall.

**kk_RTR** · 06-11-2010, 06:21 AM

Originally posted by julianpaul View Post

If it weren't leaner overall compared to the carb 160, it wouldn't give better fuel economy. Think about it. What would be more accurate to say is that the Fi is probably closer to stoich than the carb which would be richer, overall.

it wont be correct to say that FI runs leaner as compared carb RTR. Carbs no matter how finely tuned, always run rich or lean or at stoich depending on the mode of operation. This is where Fuel Injection systems come into picture. FI systems help engine run on a mixture thats stoich or very very close to stoich over entire range of operation. FI also helps in achieving better AF mixture quality due to fine atomization by the injector. Therefore, resulting in better performance, Fuel efficiency and driveability .

Your previous post meant something else. The highlighted part in your post that i've quoted here makes more sense.

**rennycornelius** · 06-11-2010, 09:27 AM

Originally posted by julianpaul View Post

For injectors though, the deposits from petrol accumulate over a period of time. So a sudden blast of high-pressure fuel isn't really gonna shake em off. They need to be dissolved which is where carb/injector cleaner comes into the picture..

But if one is into constant high speed riding wont let the deposits from petrol accumulate na....

Or may be i'am wrong...

Originally posted by julianpaul View Post

A compression tester, which is threaded into the spark plug hole. The engine is then cranked either by starter or kick...

Got that now.

Originally posted by julianpaul View Post

I'm thinking 90/90. Think it's enough for the bike while giving better performance/mileage than a 100 section. Mainly because 90/90 would give a profile of 81m which is just 1mm more than stock rather than 100/90 which is 10mm more. But that isn't really gonna make a diff. Let's see..

Q 90/90 is as good as the 100 with the added pro benefit too, go for it as it's available at tempting proce too.

Originally posted by julianpaul View Post

Front i might change after i finish the rest of the work on the bike. My weekend's screwed, tomorrow at the ASC for the normal service, Sat at the local mech to fix the fork oil seal and steering bearings...

I wanted to ask that you ever tightened the handle of your bike??

Originally posted by julianpaul View Post

My bike's done 16,3XXkm. I dunno if i've become lazy but i've never changed the plug, not even opened it once to check the burn! Will change tomorrow, but only if it looks really bad and is worn beyond spec. I used to replace my parts more frequently than required but I stopped once i learnt it doesn't really benefit the bike and just wastes money.

I change my plugs at 5000kms, rotate them at 2500, as i always buy 2 plugs at a time, i know it's early but my bike runs 6000-7000kms a year, so it comes to once a year replacement and the plug costs only 100bucks.
I think 16000kms is high time, get it changed.

Originally posted by nox2505 View Post

Bad News:
Tapping in crank case for another long bolt also gave way. The SVC guy hammered another bolt also and installed it. He suggested to keep bike for a day. but as it was not possible for me, he said in next service, he will unmount the engine, open up clutch plate cover and take engine to lathe-wala (Machinist) and get it fixed by inserting brass bushes and retapping them to original specifiations. For that, i will need to keep the bike there for for two days.

That's one long process.
How he managed to "screw" it though....

Originally posted by julianpaul View Post

I would suggest going to a turner yourself if you can get someone to open up the crankcase for you. might be faster than leaving it at the svc for 2 days.

+1

Originally posted by kk_RTR View Post

FI doesn't run lean coz if it was, it wouldnt have made more power. And the whole idea of shifting from carb to Fuel injection is to cater to the engine's demand in a precise manner which cannot be accomplished by using a carb.

Originally posted by julianpaul View Post

If it weren't leaner overall compared to the carb 160, it wouldn't give better fuel economy. Think about it. What would be more accurate to say is that the Fi is probably closer to stoich than the carb which would be richer, overall.

Originally posted by kk_RTR View Post

it wont be correct to say that FI runs leaner as compared carb RTR. Carbs no matter how finely tuned, always run rich or lean or at stoich depending on the mode of operation. This is where Fuel Injection systems come into picture. FI systems help engine run on a mixture thats stoich or very very close to stoich over entire range of operation. FI also helps in achieving better AF mixture quality due to fine atomization by the injector. Therefore, resulting in better performance, Fuel efficiency and driveability .

Your previous post meant something else. The highlighted part in your post that i've quoted here makes more sense.

FI resuts in no loss of fuel though, but FI is running leaner, as the diff between the average of both bikes is quite very much as the carbed RTR can never give you the average of 65-68kmpl

when ridden sanely below 4500RPM like the FI does.

**julianpaul** · 06-11-2010, 09:52 AM

Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post

But if one is into constant high speed riding wont let the deposits from petrol accumulate na....

Or may be i'am wrong...

Petrol deposit are kinda sticky, they will accumulate no matter what the speed of flow.

Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post

I wanted to ask that you ever tightened the handle of your bike??

If you're talking about the cone set, yeah, when the bike was new the handle used to thud over bumps and very rough roads. To remove the thudding they had to tighten the handle so much that it remains stuck in whatever position it's left in. Now i have a major handling issue, they say the cone set will have to be replaced for 350 bucks. I've never had a bike with the cone set give out earlier than 3-4 years, this seems to be another trademark failed engineering bit by TVS. For all the good stuff in the bike, there's equally crap bits too.

Originally posted by kk_RTR View Post

it wont be correct to say that FI runs leaner as compared carb RTR. Carbs no matter how finely tuned, always run rich or lean or at stoich depending on the mode of operation. This is where Fuel Injection systems come into picture. FI systems help engine run on a mixture thats stoich or very very close to stoich over entire range of operation. FI also helps in achieving better AF mixture quality due to fine atomization by the injector. Therefore, resulting in better performance, Fuel efficiency and driveability .

Your previous post meant something else. The highlighted part in your post that i've quoted here makes more sense.

My previous quote was "since the Fi has a leaner mixture there would be even less carbon".
Stoich or not, end result is that it runs leaner than the carb overall, so probably slightly less carbon than the carb. I'm still saying the same thing.

**nox2505** · 06-11-2010, 10:10 AM

Originally posted by julianpaul View Post

Where did you do the service? Why is kapoor tvs, vashi charging me 275 then? aren't the rates uniform?

How did your drain hole thread strip? Yeah, a brass insert is the best way as long as they do it right. these turners are iffy, some of them do such awesome jobs, others F it up bigtime. I would suggest going to a turner yourself if you can get someone to open up the crankcase for you. might be faster than leaving it at the svc for 2 days.

I get it serviced at Innovative, Bhandup. Drain hole thread is intact. I changed that bolt cos its head was damaged.
Regarding machining work, I trust him and his machinist fellow on this kind of works. That machinist fixed rear rim perfectly and worked just great on front calliper. And main thing is that machinist is "Panchal".

Originally posted by Puneet1 View Post

@Nox2505 - what all was done in the 7th service ? im also going in for 7th service in few days . they charged me 155rs last time .

Wash, oil and filter change, lubrication. Other things i do myself. This service was done just to maintain the service history.

Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post

But if one is into constant high speed riding wont let the deposits from petrol accumulate na....

Or may be i'am wrong...

That doesn't make huge differance.

Q 90/90 is as good as the 100 with the added pro benefit too, go for it as it's available at tempting price too.

+1 for that.

I wanted to ask that you ever tightened the handle of your bike??

DO you mean cone set adjustment?

I change my plugs at 5000kms, rotate them at 2500, as i always buy 2 plugs at a time, i know it's early but my bike runs 6000-7000kms a year, so it comes to once a year replacement and the plug costs only 100bucks.
I think 16000kms is high time, get it changed.

That's one long process.
How he managed to "screw" it though....

He didn't do anything abnormal. The tapping in crank case came out in form of helix while removing the oil filter bolt. This was second long bolt. First one came out same way in last oil change done by me.

FI resuts in no loss of fuel though, but FI is running leaner, as the diff between the average of both bikes is quite very much as the carbed RTR can never give you the average of 65-68kmpl

when ridden sanely below 4500RPM like the FI does.

Regarding Fuel efficiency, i have achieved 58 on my carb RTR. And about functioning of Fi, it works better because you get wider range of A:F ratio to use. And as kk_RTR explained, atomization also plays role in it.

Answers in Bold.

**rennycornelius** · 06-11-2010, 12:31 PM

Originally posted by julianpaul View Post

Petrol deposit are kinda sticky, they will accumulate no matter what the speed of flow..

Allright.

Originally posted by julianpaul View Post

If you're talking about the cone set, yeah, when the bike was new the handle used to thud over bumps and very rough roads. To remove the thudding they had to tighten the handle so much that it remains stuck in whatever position it's left in. Now i have a major handling issue, they say the cone set will have to be replaced for 350 bucks. I've never had a bike with the cone set give out earlier than 3-4 years, this seems to be another trademark failed engineering bit by TVS. For all the good stuff in the bike, there's equally crap bits too..

Ya i meant the cone adjustment...
My FI never required it, and that seems strange to me cuz in KB100 and FIERO they use to call for frequent adjustments.
My handleis bit tight at the extreme ends though, courtsey the bundles of wires and cable.

Cone set failure that too in 2 years sucks.
TVS should learn to use high quality materials then one they used in FIERO which had "SUZUKI" written on the TANK.

@NOX:

58 kmpl from the carb is one hell of a good average.
BTW my FI is giving me constant avg of 38-40kmpl from the last three tankfull to tankfulls.

**joykarnawat** · 06-11-2010, 03:00 PM

Even my FI is giving me the same average of 38-40/ltr. Mine is just five month old and has done only 3400 kms and two services. Is it the ideal fuel efficiency for FI?
I have got it tuned at the SVC through their computer. Still there is no improvement. My driving is also very safe. i hardly cross the speed of 60 in day to day use.
Any suggestions?

**rennycornelius** · 06-11-2010, 03:58 PM

For me 38-40kmpl for a 160CC,16 PS, 12000RPM revving bike is GOD average, remember that's overall average that includes manic driving too.

You can extract as much as 65-68kmpl from the bike while driving it sanely under 4500RPM.

**nox2505** · 06-11-2010, 04:00 PM

Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post

@NOX:

58 kmpl from the carb is one hell of a good average.
BTW my FI is giving me constant avg of 38-40kmpl from the last three tankfull to tankfulls.

That was on round journey ride to kharghar. I rode at 45-50 consistantly (i had to as My dad was on victor).

**rennycornelius** · 06-11-2010, 04:07 PM

Originally posted by nox2505 View Post

That was on round journey ride to kharghar. I rode at 45-50 consistantly (i had to as My dad was on victor).

Now got the reason behind that!!!!!!!!

**Puneet1** · 06-11-2010, 05:11 PM

guys whats the cause of uneven front sprocket wear ? bad chain alignment ? and can i fix the front sprocket in reverse now ?

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