thanks buddy for the info and due to unavailability of petronas in kolkata i switched to Castrol Power 1 (15w40semi synth) and man result is really good moreover the mech also said me that the result of rower 1 racing is not good just like motul 300v 10w40 fs so better to switch with power 1 but after power 1 why again back to mineral oil ??

hehe... running on mineral Oil from beginning so i just want to continue same grade oil. For my Leh ride i used Petronas coz its difficult to find same grade oil everywhere (as for mineral u need to change it on every 1200kms) .

Tough time with RTR

Had very tough time with RTR since 6th aug.
On 6th, clutch shaft bearing went kaput. As i had no tools and bike was not in condition to ride back to Neral, dropped it at svc in bhandup. From 9th, I was on official training. so got the bike back on saturday (14th aug). The clutch shaft bearing, crank bearing and clutch plate set was replaced. Including labour, bill went to 3594/-. Got discount of 94/-. (Bearings and clutch plates are not covered under warranty!)
Episode two:
To my surprize, when got the bike back, it was struggling to to touch 70kmph. 4th gear was not meshing properly, Oil was leaking. Sent it for rework and got it back day before yesterday. when riding to vikhroli, every thing was fine. Mechanic said "sahaab, aapaki gaadi pe aaj 7 ghanta kaam kiya. Ab kuch bhi problem nahi hai. Bahut dino baad itane achhese kaam kiya. warana hamesha 3 ghante mein engine NIPATA DETA HOON." And i was like . (i thought WTF, then why you screwed in first attempt? to waste time of both of us along with three bond and electricity of yours?)

Will ride to neral tomorrow for thorough testing.

Report of the whole engine:
1. All child parts was in perfect condition like new (virtually no wear and tear.)
2. Carbon deposition was negligible. Still, got it cleaned.
3. Now, shifting is smoother than my victor.
4. RTR punch is back.

Konkal Pulsar bhai, two of my friends used Motul 15W40 full synthetic after 10k kms. According to them after first service, semi-synth is better till 10k kms. After that full synth makes the engine really run well. One has P150 other has RTR160. Don't know how much of the info is correct.

One thing I noticed, Motul did reduce the vibrations of RTR160 upto 80kmph.

New RTR 160

Hi guys. Thanks a lot for helping me to select my bike. I have bought an apache RTR 160 yesterday after reading almost all the pages in ownership thread. But I have doubt about it. I get burning smell since the time I took it. And one more thing is the engine noise tends to get more after running for more than 10 km.
I am really worried about it Is there something wrong in my bike or is it normal?
ODO shows 30km.

Using Yamalube 20w40(Motul make) since last one month and approx 1000km, but I was filling engine sluggish and lack of refinement since last few days. So yesterday again switch to Veedol Swift 10W40, and from the km 1 the things change, pick up and smoothness is back and feeling is good. This Veedol oil is superb.

BUT

I was also feeling that my horn is not working OK and kind of low when turn indicator is on, so the mechanic suggest me to replace the battery, which was 2.8 months old and stock, so yesterday I replaced it with a new AMARON 9ah battery for Rs.1450.00. But today found that the problem not solved.
The shopkeeper told me to just install the new battery as in case of Amaron no need to charge it first time, is it so, or I need to recharge the battery before instilling it to bike?


Renny,NOX, Abhijeet please help.

Check the fuses first, at the box over the time they develop a coating that affects electricals and performance of the bike too.

Have you "sandpaper'd" the the two main wires that connects to the battery before connecting??( - and +)

There's nothing wrong with the battery but the horns are giving you trouble, i had the same prob with the horns too but i adjusted them though NOX later mentioned its not the right thing to do, he explained things which i forgot, im not good at the electricals,he'll be able to help you out in the horn thing, PM him.

In case of RTR, charging coil is 50W only and battery is hefty 9Ah. It takes around 90-100 kms to full charge the battery. Clean the regulator connector and battery points. How much kms you clocked after installing new battery?
I will check my (My bike's) charging voltage and will revert to you till night. However, charging voltage should be around 13-14 ideally. Also check resistance of charging coil. It should be 1 to 1.5 Ohm. In my case, its 1.3 or 1.4 (dont remember exactly).
If you Recharge battery externally, you will not have to wait till 100kms or so.

FYI: i have never charged any of my battery externally (except fiat's, sometimes, i use it as alternative for inverter battery)

Thanks to the Service Planning head of Marketing Dept in TVS, the RTR 180 sprocket kit is here. Great going TVS!!! Will fit it in my bike and update you guys tomorrow.

fi

RTR 160 Fi still available or not ?

Yeah, it is

Here in INDORE on bookings though..

Wiring issues"

This happened almost 2 months back when i was topping up the distilled water level at the battery, one of the main wire's clip broke, so i made a make shift arrangement by cutting the rubber "coating" exposing the "copper" and fixed it to the terminal and secured it with the main screw.

Here:



I wanted to know,

1. Do i have to change the wiring for it or the seperate clamp for it, is available??

NOX, little help here....

2. Is it necessary to have air bubble inside the front reservoir of the brake fluid??

Cuz two days back i noticed that the front reservoir is all RED(colour of the fluid) with no air bubble, so when i opened it, it was covered with the black rubber thing that goes all inside, to the bottom of the reservoir, so when i removed the thing, the reservoir was hardly 1/4 filled, so i topped the thing and when i replaced the rubber "thing" the whole fluid, almost half of it was spilled out of it, so i removed the rubber again and looked inside, and it showed almost half while i topped it to the brim, then i secured the lid (with that half fluid) and the "window" showed full and to my surprise it had that bloody air bubble too.

Here:




The rear was at the half level too so i filled it to the level, but it's not having a deep rubber "washer", just a plain simple one.

Not sure if thats the case in bangalore...But I personally feel A180 killed it

It sure did....
that too With 5-6 grand less....