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Apache RTR/FI
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160 Fi costs a grand or two more here in bangaloreOriginally posted by chicane1879 View PostI think both the bikes cost roughly same!!
A team-mate booked the 180. Waiting period is 15 days as white's selling like hot cakes here. He was told Fi would take around 20 days....Back to HIBERNATE mode...
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1200kms : Across Tamil nadu & pondicherryl
To the end of land!!!
Breakfast Ride!!! Mulshi Lake...
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Answers in bold red. If the explaination is not enough, PM me. I will post the pics of brass pin and that "rubber thing"Originally posted by rennycornelius View PostThis happened almost 2 months back when i was topping up the distilled water level at the battery, one of the main wire's clip broke, so i made a make shift arrangement by cutting the rubber "coating" exposing the "copper" and fixed it to the terminal and secured it with the main screw.
Here:

I wanted to know,
1. Do i have to change the wiring for it or the seperate clamp for it, is available??
There are loads of wire connector types in market. Buy one similar to encircled in the following image. Choose appropriate size. You can get it in any electrical shop.
NOX, little help here....
2. Is it necessary to have air bubble inside the front reservoir of the brake fluid??
It is not necessary, but if it is, doesn't matter.
Cuz two days back i noticed that the front reservoir is all RED(colour of the fluid) with no air bubble, so when i opened it, it was covered with the black rubber thing that goes all inside, to the bottom of the reservoir,
This rubber thing should be in flat condition ideally. As fluid goes low, it is sucked inside. Same is the case for rear brake also. After filling brake fluid, flatten this rubber thing. It should be installed from one end progressing to other end, in order to remove maximum possible air from reservoir. After this secure the lid and bolt it on.
so when i removed the thing, the reservoir was hardly 1/4 filled, so i topped the thing and when i replaced the rubber "thing" the whole fluid, almost half of it was spilled out of it, so i removed the rubber again and looked inside, and it showed almost half while i topped it to the brim, then i secured the lid (with that half fluid) and the "window" showed full and to my surprise it had that bloody air bubble too.
Here:

The rear was at the half level too so i filled it to the level, but it's not having a deep rubber "washer", just a plain simple one.Last edited by nox2505; 08-23-2010, 05:46 PM.There's lot to it other than saddle....
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Thanks a lot bro, the pic helped a lot.Originally posted by nox2505 View PostAnswers in bold red. If the explaination is not enough, PM me. I will post the pics of brass pin and that "rubber thing"
Will get it, but how to bolt that in, i mean simple exposing the "copper" and clamping will be enough na??
@Swagat:
The FI is about 4000-4500 more than 180 here in INDORE.The Magician"
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hi guys I am facing a problem. whenever i takeout my bike from parking ie: at extremely low speeds while pushing. i hear a creaking noise from the rear tyre or brake assembly.the sound is similar to the creaking sound made by metal doors. its audible only while pushing the bike. When the bike starts moving above 4-5kmph the sound disappears or maybe i cant hear it. plz advice guys.
@chicane- In delhi, the RTR Fi costs 3-4k more than RTR180
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Ride the bike with the rear brake pedal pushed to 1/4 to half for 100-200mtrs and the noice will disappear.Originally posted by chatterbox1 View Posthi guys I am facing a problem. whenever i takeout my bike from parking ie: at extremely low speeds while pushing. i hear a creaking noise from the rear tyre or brake assembly.the sound is similar to the creaking sound made by metal doors. its audible only while pushing the bike. When the bike starts moving above 4-5kmph the sound disappears or maybe i cant hear it. plz advice guys.
Its just the brake shoe's noice, quite common in rains due to moisture trapped.The Magician"
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Difference between the FI and the 180 is just around 1k here at hyd!
Guys, looks like my bike's front disc brake is giving away. I able to compress the lever fully during rains and yet the bike does'nt stop.....ply becomes too much. And this happens only when it rains!Last edited by onlinesatish; 08-24-2010, 06:48 PM.07 HH Zma
11 Honda Aviator DLX
14 Ford Figo 1.4 TDCI (Now Caged:( )
16 Scooty Zest
11 CBR 250R
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After stripping the wire, you will pinch it in pin and if you want, you can opt for soldering also. that gives better conductivity.Originally posted by rennycornelius View PostThanks a lot bro, the pic helped a lot.
Will get it, but how to bolt that in, i mean simple exposing the "copper" and clamping will be enough na??
@Swagat:
The FI is about 4000-4500 more than 180 here in INDORE.There's lot to it other than saddle....
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The front disc of my bike is behaving in an odd manner, the dogleg is working in two "stages"....it has become little hard now, i though it might be due to the debris trapped inside the pads, but it was all clean when i opened it.
I think it needs to be bled.
here:

The pads, specially the right one seems to lost its edge too, i think it needs replacement.
Last edited by rennycornelius; 08-26-2010, 11:37 AM.The Magician"
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Remove brake lever, Clean the yoke and lever mounting hole alongwith mounting bolt thoroughly, put in new grease and reassemble.Originally posted by rennycornelius View PostThe front disc of my bike is behaving in an odd manner, the dogleg is working in two "stages"....it has become little hard now, i though it might be due to the debris trapped inside the pads, but it was all clean when i opened it.
I think it needs to be bled.
here:

The pads, specially the right one seems to lost its edge too, i think it needs replacement.
There's lot to it other than saddle....
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It workedOriginally posted by nox2505 View PostRemove brake lever, Clean the yoke and lever mounting hole alongwith mounting bolt thoroughly, put in new grease and reassemble.
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There was hell lotta sludge in there when i opened it, cleaned it throughly, applied grease, but i didnt applied oil to the main "piston" sorta thing that works to apply the brake (activated by the lever) as i thought the oil might eat up the seal.
I also had a thought of "washing" the whole "inside" by petrol, but again due to that rubber seal, i gave up the idea.
Here:
Last edited by rennycornelius; 08-30-2010, 05:23 PM.The Magician"
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Checked the price of the Fi here in BBSR. It is only 450 bucks costlier than the 180.Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post@Swagat:
The FI is about 4000-4500 more than 180 here in INDORE.
I dont think it will be pricier by more than 1000 bucks elsewhere.
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