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My R1 Thread :D
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Do SBKs use any special batteries for the load they encounter or our normal EXIDE-style batteries? Incidentally, what's the battery config on the R1 and what make is urs?Democracy is when 2 wolves and a sheep meet to decide who is for dinner. Liberty is when the sheep has a gun.
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You've sensed it right. Electrical intermittence (either a failing battery or a loose connection somewhere) would usually make such 'come and go' faults.Originally posted by rossiter View PostOF, I am now completely convinced that it is an electrical/battery related issue. I was on my way to the pump to fuel up (add drastically reduced mileage to the list of symptoms), and I was still having the same issues. But while idling at a traffic signal, I heard the engine note change and the roughness/sluggishness went away. The engine performed flawlessly till the pump (3-4 kms away). But once I started up again, the problems were back.
The concerned people from Delhi are coming down next week to solve the problem, but in the meantime, I'll source a battery and try it out. The diagnosis can go on in the meantime
I have the workshop manual and I spent some time last night looking at the the wiring diagrams, checked the wiring for any grounding/ damaged wires etc. As far as I can see, it looks OK. But I'll be checking the plugs just in case.
Speaking of plugs, how were the plugs on Sunny's bike when they changed it?
The 'earth' connection that I found loose in Sunny's bike has two wires being grounded; 1 from the battery and the other from the injection pump I think. The wires are tightened on the engine casing by a 4mm allen-head bolt. I found this loose by about three full turns. This is accessible once you raise the tank on its hinge and flip up a rubber flap on the engine below. The connection is below the flap.
I did not get to see Sunny's bikes' plugs as he was alone when he picked it up from the dealer's. Personally, don't think 6000kms on the odo would do much to the plugs though I sure would have liked to see their colour and any deposits on them.
Originally posted by MavericK46 View PostChalk up another diagnosis for the OF juggernaut..!!

...Mav...you almost make me sound like the 'Gorilla Doctor'
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Are you talking about this (circled, No.10)? I did check this, but I'll check again tonight.
Thanks for your help OF. I would not have sensed it had you not have nudged me in that direction
"Tough times never last, but tough people do." - Robert Schuller
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R.I.P Kriss; 15.06.1981 - 11.10.2009 -- You will not be forgotten.
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Originally posted by Old Fox View Post...

...Mav...you almost make me sound like the 'Gorilla Doctor'

I couldn't help but reminisce about the sheer number of solutions you have provided, theories explained etc.
Im eagerly awaiting the 11th of April now
I'm normally not a praying man, but if you're up there, please save me Superman.
-Homer J Simpson
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Yes, it is the connection 'R' in the drawing. Vibration and extreme optimization are the major factors for this apparent unreliability. A 12Ah battery would have taken more space, would have weighed more but would have handled the loads better, especially in our environment. And I can bet my bottom dollar that both you and I would be willing to loose those 10-15kph from its top speed in the bargainOriginally posted by rossiter View PostAre you talking about this (circled, No.10)? I did check this, but I'll check again tonight.
Thanks for your help OF. I would not have sensed it had you not have nudged me in that direction
. And vibration...well...the hands keep tingling long after you've switched off the bike and are holding that cup of coffee instead. If the vibrations could make flesh and bones tingle for so long, connectors working themselves loose shall be a perpetual possibility. I wonder what all I'll have to tighten before this ride is over
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Anyways, its not exactly help but sharing. You too would have got there eventually. I just helped you avoid the lengthy process of systematic elimination. Looking forward to seeing you in Bangalore.
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Well.. it's been a long time, but still no fix for my problems. I tried running the R1 with a new battery, and some of the problems went away but it resurfaced again. Still able to diagnose the issue.Originally posted by Old Fox View PostYes, it is the connection 'R' in the drawing. Vibration and extreme optimization are the major factors for this apparent unreliability. A 12Ah battery would have taken more space, would have weighed more but would have handled the loads better, especially in our environment. And I can bet my bottom dollar that both you and I would be willing to loose those 10-15kph from its top speed in the bargain
. And vibration...well...the hands keep tingling long after you've switched off the bike and are holding that cup of coffee instead. If the vibrations could make flesh and bones tingle for so long, connectors working themselves loose shall be a perpetual possibility. I wonder what all I'll have to tighten before this ride is over
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Anyways, its not exactly help but sharing. You too would have got there eventually. I just helped you avoid the lengthy process of systematic elimination. Looking forward to seeing you in Bangalore.
So am going in for new plugs, re-cleaning and calibration of the injectors (there was some doubt whether it was calibrated), and new O-rings weren't put in while the injectors were put back. This will take a week or so.
In any case, next month, my R1 will undergo a heart checkup since she is nearing the 10000 km mark. Hopefully, by then my problem will solved.
OF: I checked the ground, and it is fine. Any other inputs? I'm all out of ideas.
And I look forward to meeting and riding with you guys when you're here as well
"Tough times never last, but tough people do." - Robert Schuller
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R.I.P Kriss; 15.06.1981 - 11.10.2009 -- You will not be forgotten.
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Yes...its been long. So the problems persist. To me, they still seem electrical in nature...probably something to do with non-legit inputs to the ECM from one of the sensors. No outright ideas from me either as of now. Check on the real basics though...like integrity of connections to and from the ignition switch, the tilt sensor and the impact sensor embedded up front. The R1 is a high vibration environment and that alone can cause loose connections.Originally posted by rossiter View PostWell.. it's been a long time, but still no fix for my problems. I tried running the R1 with a new battery, and some of the problems went away but it resurfaced again. Still able to diagnose the issue.
So am going in for new plugs, re-cleaning and calibration of the injectors (there was some doubt whether it was calibrated), and new O-rings weren't put in while the injectors were put back. This will take a week or so.
In any case, next month, my R1 will undergo a heart checkup since she is nearing the 10000 km mark. Hopefully, by then my problem will solved.
OF: I checked the ground, and it is fine. Any other inputs? I'm all out of ideas.
And I look forward to meeting and riding with you guys when you're here as well
Maybe cleaning the injectors and putting new O-rings will help. But that would be only if you'd got really bad fuel during one of your long rides. Hasn't happened to us as yet. But now that UP and Bihar are on...you never know
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Do get the bike up and running by the time we get there. Am looking forward to meeting you and of course, riding with you.
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Originally posted by rossiter View Post
So, my R1 is currently grounded because of some misfiring and sluggishness off the line. I've been having this problem on and off ever since my December ride around Kerala and TN. But now it's not going away with even good 97 octane fuel. So one or both of two things could have happened IMO:
1) Injectors are clogged (Most likely, and also Yamaha's diagnosis).
2) One or more of the spark plugs are not working as they should.
Either way, I'll know in a day or two.
Does the R1 you have use drive by wire? and even if it does does it need the throttle position sensor to be calibrated to register the throttle "closed" position?
I was working on a Ducati monster, with very similar symptoms, it got rectified once we re-calibrated the TPS.
Has YAM india done a diagnostic to check that?
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Good suggestion, but I already eliminated that myself. It was one of the first things I checked, along with injector function. The R1's ECU has a self diagnostic feature and the TPS at throttle closed and fully open is very much within the prescribed values.Originally posted by Ducati695 View PostDoes the R1 you have use drive by wire? and even if it does does it need the throttle position sensor to be calibrated to register the throttle "closed" position?
I was working on a Ducati monster, with very similar symptoms, it got rectified once we re-calibrated the TPS.
Has YAM india done a diagnostic to check that?"Tough times never last, but tough people do." - Robert Schuller
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R.I.P Kriss; 15.06.1981 - 11.10.2009 -- You will not be forgotten.
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Yes, the 1 uses drive by wire and the TPS calibration can be checked through on-board diagnostics. The key code is there in the wksp manual.Originally posted by Ducati695 View PostDoes the R1 you have use drive by wire? and even if it does does it need the throttle position sensor to be calibrated to register the throttle "closed" position?
I was working on a Ducati monster, with very similar symptoms, it got rectified once we re-calibrated the TPS.
Has YAM india done a diagnostic to check that?
Like I stated above, the problem reeks of sensor input anomaly.
Edit:
Identical response a minute apart.
Last edited by Old Fox; 03-11-2009, 05:34 PM.
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@rossiter: Close to 10000kms ?? Did you change the tyres .. or still running on the same ones


If changed where did you get it from??
Very much keen to know about the support from yamaha in the matter of tyres...
PS: sorry, if u have posted about this already. Cant search man... Lazy you knowThere are Bikers
There are Super Bikers...
And Then there's KRISS
click here for
Click here to subscribe SMS alerts for all upcoming Xbhp- Hyderabad G2G's and Rides.
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Yes, he did post earlier. They sell Michelin 2CT's.Originally posted by kriss View Post@rossiter: Close to 10000kms ?? Did you change the tyres .. or still running on the same ones


If changed where did you get it from??
Very much keen to know about the support from yamaha in the matter of tyres...
PS: sorry, if u have posted about this already. Cant search man... Lazy you know
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Rossiter: Too sorry to hear about the issues man!!! Hope these are resolved soon and u tour again...
Since the topic of non-legitimate inputs from one of the sensors came up, could this be an issue due to the cat-con removal. Cos there is a sensor in the exhaust too, right?Democracy is when 2 wolves and a sheep meet to decide who is for dinner. Liberty is when the sheep has a gun.
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The lambda sensor (Oxygen sensor) in the exhaust is in the Y bend and not near the regions where the cat-con baffles are.Originally posted by Aparajith View PostRossiter: Too sorry to hear about the issues man!!! Hope these are resolved soon and u tour again...
Since the topic of non-legitimate inputs from one of the sensors came up, could this be an issue due to the cat-con removal. Cos there is a sensor in the exhaust too, right?
He'd posted the removal procedure in the 'SBK Workhshop' thread. No chance of any lambda sensor damage surely...I'm normally not a praying man, but if you're up there, please save me Superman.
-Homer J Simpson
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