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**rookieraj** · 03-06-2011, 07:13 PM

Piston & Cylinder - first look

Originally posted by psr View Post

Rookie when you open the top head please see if the BORE is rusted..it most probably will be.Clean the rust off with Kerosene,(soaking a piece of cloth in Kerosene and repeatedly wiping the inside of bore,in circular motion) and spray WD 40 oil to clear and lubricate the rings from the top of piston .WD40 also works against rust and thaws frozen parts, so use the spray liberally in circular pattern on the top of Piston edge with the bore.
You can also try Colgate white Toothpaste to polish the bore,before trying to kick and move the piston...Tooth paste is a mild abrasive and cleans and polishes surfaces well.

@psr: Anna, good news. The piston and bore look good. The piston has dried engine oil on the top that is giving it a black look. Ditto with the cylinder head. The bore doesn't have any rust - only dried oil residue. I have dipped the piston in Kerosene oil for the night - will be cleaning it tomorrow evening. Surprisingly, the piston was moving freely after I removed the engine block from the chassis.

The next two days will be very busy so I'll get to work only in the evenings.

**kb100** · 03-06-2011, 07:57 PM

If possible do upgrade the front brakes to a pulsar classics disk unit

**rookieraj** · 03-06-2011, 08:03 PM

Re: Pulsar Classic Front Disc

@ kb100: you read my mind buddy. In fact this was the only modification I was planning on. I want to keep the rest as stock as possible.

I have a classic P150 and I absolutely love it although I get to ride it only on weekends.

**kb100** · 03-06-2011, 08:35 PM

Originally posted by rookieraj View Post

@ kb100: you read my mind buddy. In fact this was the only modification I was planning on. I want to keep the rest as stock as possible.

I have a classic P150 and I absolutely love it although I get to ride it only on weekends.

go on with the mod it will be worth it ,hows ur headlamp , lumax ones are difficult to get , as your tank is rusted use the fuel filter from yezdi if u cant find it drop a magnet in the sediment chamber of the fuel tap and then add a filter from cd100

**rookieraj** · 03-06-2011, 11:24 PM

Originally posted by kb100 View Post

go on with the mod it will be worth it ,hows ur headlamp , lumax ones are difficult to get , as your tank is rusted use the fuel filter from yezdi if u cant find it drop a magnet in the sediment chamber of the fuel tap and then add a filter from cd100

I haven't been able to open the head lamp yet. One rusted screw is giving me problems. I have recovered the tail lamp bulb and a few turn indicator bulbs though and will be subjecting them to a continuity test on the multimeter soon.

Will heed your advice on the Yezdi fuel filter. Keep the suggestions coming buddy.

**yamdoot** · 03-07-2011, 01:22 AM

@Rookieraj.. you can add a good Vice grip pliers to your tool list. Its comes in handy when trying to open rusted screws/ bolts thereby saving the surrounding parts.

**rookieraj** · 03-07-2011, 02:32 AM

Originally posted by yamdoot View Post

@Rookieraj.. you can add a good Vice grip pliers to your tool list. Its comes in handy when trying to open rusted screws/ bolts thereby saving the surrounding parts.

@ Yamdoot: Will look for it on my next visit to Ajmeri Gate. I admire the way you sourced Suzuki parts for members. Any chance of Bajaj parts coming your way?

Latest addition to my tools list:-
Set of Box Spanners 8-22: 220
1/4" Ratchet handle: 295
Wire Stripper+cutter:25

My tools wishlist - 1/2" torque wrench, Toptul socket set, Vice grip pliers

**kb100** · 03-07-2011, 09:45 AM

also add an impact wrench to the list will cost you abt 500 rs... btw what parts do you need

PS; do get in touch with Divye Khanna he is from delhi and is triying to maintain his kb100

**psr** · 03-07-2011, 10:26 AM

Originally posted by rookieraj View Post

@psr: Anna, good news. The piston and bore look good. The piston has dried engine oil on the top that is giving it a black look. Ditto with the cylinder head. The bore doesn't have any rust - only dried oil residue. I have dipped the piston in Kerosene oil for the night - will be cleaning it tomorrow evening. Surprisingly, the piston was moving freely after I removed the engine block from the chassis.

The next two days will be very busy so I'll get to work only in the evenings.

Rookie that is a GREAT news, so you don't have to hunt for the most tough part to get...I think the gummed up old oil had stopped the piston from moving
Since you are doing the bike restoration yourself the following critical tools are necessary..
1. Impact screw driver with both star(philips head) and flat blade interchangeable screw head bits.
2. Engine Magneto puller to take off the circular Magneto unit from the crank shaft.
3. Engine Crank Case Splitter for separating the two halves of the engine crank case.
4. Bearing puller for separating the engine Crank Shaft bearings from the crank shaft.
5. Rubber or Soft nylon HAMMER, for tapping to separate and for assembling crank case, and other engine assembly parts at the time of dis-assembly, and assembly.
Never use hard hammer,spanner,or screw drivers, for doing this, esp., the surface face of the crank case as it will damage the facing and lead to permanent oil leaks,and poor performance.
Buy a set of good engine bolts available as a set and keep it to replace bolts that get damaged during working process.

**yamdoot** · 03-07-2011, 12:30 PM

Originally posted by rookieraj View Post

@ Yamdoot: Will look for it on my next visit to Ajmeri Gate. I admire the way you sourced Suzuki parts for members. Any chance of Bajaj parts coming your way?

Latest addition to my tools list:-
Set of Box Spanners 8-22: 220
1/4" Ratchet handle: 295
Wire Stripper+cutter:25

My tools wishlist - 1/2" torque wrench, Toptul socket set, Vice grip pliers

Hey thanks Raj. I sure will look for parts. Last i went for parts hunting i came across a new bore kit for KB100. Cosmetics would still be easier to find but the 125 bore kit seems impossible. Let me know what all parts you need.

**rookieraj** · 03-07-2011, 01:39 PM

@kb100: i am in the process of compiling the parts list. will let you know when i'm done. thanks for the impact wrench bit.

@psr: your post was in the nick of time Anna. was planning to open the engine today but will now get the tools you mentioned. thanks a lot.

@Yamdoot: will be near Indore in April and most of May. may be we can meet on a Sunday if you're free and in town. will let you know of the parts once i'm done with the list. thanks.

**rookieraj** · 03-07-2011, 02:41 PM

Originally posted by kb100 View Post

also add an impact wrench to the list will cost you abt 500 rs...

Originally posted by psr View Post

Since you are doing the bike restoration yourself the following critical tools are necessary.. Impact screw driver with both star(philips head) and flat blade interchangeable screw head bits.

@kb100, @psr: I read up a bit about the impact wrench & screwdriver. It appears that bolts and screws will finally have to be tightened by hand as there is a danger of cross-threading with the impact tools. Moreover, the sockets & bits will cost extra. As I have time on my side and I have already dismantled most of the bike with hand tools, don't you think investing in a torque wrench will be better?

**kb100** · 03-07-2011, 04:40 PM

for most of the screws good hand tighting will be more than enough but certain screws especially ones holding the two crank case halves might need a little extra effort ,the impact wrench will be of immense help when you have stubborn screws, if possible try and use allen bolts in place of screws as the screw heads have a tendency to deform easily, allen bolts should cost about rs 5 apiece but will be worth it
there are impact wrenches that come bundled with the necessary bits and cost about 500rs

torque wrench eh that is one costly piece of kit and needs proper care and caliberation

**rookieraj** · 03-07-2011, 04:54 PM

@kb100: thanks for putting things in perspective about the impact wrench. the tools budget is soaring and i want to get the bare essentials like the bearing removing tool, crankcase separating tool etc first. your advice will, however, remain at the back of my mind.

i know the torque wrench is expensive, but i want the engine assembly to be as near perfect as possible. the few retailers that i have interacted with are not very knowledgeable about these and offer it size-wise - 12"/medium/large - you name the nomenclature. when you ask about the specs they look at you as if you are an alien.

**psr** · 03-07-2011, 05:57 PM

Originally posted by rookieraj View Post

@kb100, @psr: I read up a bit about the impact wrench & screwdriver. It appears that bolts and screws will finally have to be tightened by hand as there is a danger of cross-threading with the impact tools. Moreover, the sockets & bits will cost extra. As I have time on my side and I have already dismantled most of the bike with hand tools, don't you think investing in a torque wrench will be better?

The impact screw driver is used for the first thread unscrewing ...and while assembling ,....after full tightening with hand .I had never faced any problems of cross threading even otherwise,as all it requires is a little bit of care and ATTENTION.
Impact screw driver = 600/-
Magneto puller = 350/-
crank case splitter =500/-
bearing holder =400.
This was the price i paid in the 80s.....
The tools let you do a proper job with perfection and helps you in future also...If you want to know the different tools it is in the Workshop Manual I had uploaded earlier.

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