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**rookieraj** · 06-23-2011, 07:51 PM

Originally posted by kb100 View Post

what more do you need

btw did you buy threebond paste

its a long list buddy. will definitely let you know if i need anything but let me first exhaust all options here. thanks anyway.

by the way put your thinking caps on. my post tomorrow evening is going to try your patience. its going to be about a long list of queries about the rebuild.

**kb100** · 06-23-2011, 08:10 PM

im ready..... btw almost all parts for the kb can be bought from karol bhag i know this as almost all the parts i have is made there so dont worry about the availabilyty of parts ....also get a pair of old scooter tyres will come in handy when reassembling the engine as it can be used as a support

**rookieraj** · 06-24-2011, 08:49 PM

Alright people, the bike is lying in bits and pieces and i think its time i started serious work on reassembling it. there are so many things to do and so many parts to buy which leaves me thoroughly confused. would you mind if i used your collective experience as a sounding board and cleared my mind in the process?

1. Engine. the engine is the most important part of the bike, right? so i must first start with that. well, this is what needs to be done-

(a) get the engine covers/crank case et all painted. silver aluminium paint should be fine, isn't it? also, does the paint need to be oven baked? does it need a coat of primer before the paint? if yes, is it a different primer and what is it called?

(b) buy new bearings (skf/nrb), gasket kit, 'o' ring kit, oil seal kit (jk pioneer), new piston + rings (mahle/goetze), allen bolts/screws, accelerator cable, clutch cable, rpm meter cable, neutral switch, rubber/plastic hoses, air filter, 2T oil, transmission oil, threebond...did i forget anything? now, i have a new set of cables but the old ones too don't look too bad. should i plan on using the old ones by lubricating the inners?

(c) get a new crankshaft assembly or should i get the old one trued? the old one has some horizontal play - about 1 mm; the workshop manual lays down a service limit of .6mm.

(d) get the carb + oil pump serviced. the kb100 uses the mikcarb vm19sc. the parts catalogue mentions different part numbers for the carbs of the kb100 & kb125 so i guess that these should be different. which carb does the kb125 use, any idea? i know that there is an alternative in paco but i want the mikcarb details.

(e) finally assemble evrything....phew!

2. Frame/Chassis. pretty straightforward here-

(a) get all the pieces sandblasted and painted (dupont, preferably). two coats of primer - dupont again? what's the primer called? is the dupont paint required to be oven baked? clearcoat before/after the stickering - after i guess.

(b) get a new seat made. the bottom-plate of the old seat is badly rusted. is there anything i should look for specifically - like a broader seat for my considerable behind? split seats anyone?

(c) get a new set of bolts and assemble everything.

3. Electricals. i understand a bit of positive/negative and how current needs to flow in a loop to get the circuit functioning. no wonder i' a rookie! anyway-

(a) buy a new main harness, LT & charging coils, magneto wire, handlebar combination switches, front & rear stop switches, lamps & bulbs, cdi, regulator, rectifier, ignition coil, spark plug, flasher unit, fuse wire, 15A fuses, battery (12V5AH) - i prefer exide but i'm told amaron's pretty good too...did i miss anything? now, the same query as before. my multimeter tells me that the cdi, flasher unit, rectifier and regulator are okay. should i use the old ones or should i use the the swiss ones i've already bought?

(b) another thing. i've bought a new set of LT coils. the old ones are also there. should i get the old ones rewound for a higher output than the 35W stock? will i need to change the other parts - regulator/rectifier/cdi/battery? will it affect the engine's performance?

(c) LED for the tail lights and meter console? by the way, the tail light is 12V 21/5W and the meter console lights are 12V 3.4W each. LEDs will definitely save me some wattage.

(c) take a printout of the circuit diagram and assemble everything.

4. Transmission. now this is where i need maximum help. the idea is to use stock specs and fit pulsar150 front disc brake. here goes-

(a) get a new chain (will a 'o' ring chain be of considerable advantage?), front sprocket is okay, rear one is a goner - do i need to change both simultaneously? front and rear hubs, HH OEM rims (front - 1.60 x 18, rear - 1.85 x 18), tyres- Michellin/Zapper/Dunlop? if Michellin then Sirac Street or M45? spokes - zinc coated, i guess or SS?

(b) new clutch plates/friction plates (OEM should be available i guess). do i need to change the clutch housing (looks fine to me)? what about the clutch springs?

(c) now abouth the disc brake setup. buy a p150 fron disc assembly. do i need to buy the pulsar forks too? what about the hub - will i have to get the pulsar hub too? and then i guess i'll have to look for another front mudguard because the stock one won't fit into the pulsar fork. levers and front stop switch - is it included in the disc assembly? need to sort this one out thoroughly - i guess i'll have to read some more!

5. Miscellaneous. there are plenty of other things - cleaning the silencer, nickelling of the pedals and kicker, which grips are best etc etc.

if you've read through the entire post, i salute your perseverance and patience. i'll only be too glad to hear from you

**kb100** · 06-24-2011, 11:01 PM

Originally posted by rookieraj View Post

Alright people, the bike is lying in bits and pieces and i think its time i started serious work on reassembling it. there are so many things to do and so many parts to buy which leaves me thoroughly confused. would you mind if i used your collective experience as a sounding board and cleared my mind in the process?

1. Engine. the engine is the most important part of the bike, right? so i must first start with that. well, this is what needs to be done-

(a) get the engine covers/crank case et all painted. silver aluminium paint should be fine, isn't it? also, does the paint need to be oven baked? does it need a coat of primer before the paint? if yes, is it a different primer and what is it called?

(b) buy new bearings (skf/nrb), gasket kit, 'o' ring kit, oil seal kit (jk pioneer), new piston + rings (mahle/goetze), allen bolts/screws, accelerator cable, clutch cable, rpm meter cable, neutral switch, rubber/plastic hoses, air filter, 2T oil, transmission oil, threebond...did i forget anything? now, i have a new set of cables but the old ones too don't look too bad. should i plan on using the old ones by lubricating the inners?you can use the original cables if they are in good condition as nothing beats the quality of the original ,pistons you can buy any brand you like as long as its standard size ,also keep an extra piston ring set as spare ,neutralswitch can be reused ,no issues with that , bearings you can go for reputed brands like skf ,nrb,nbc etc you can use the bearings that you removed as reference ,dont worry if the bearings that you get are sealsd type just use a screw driver and remove the seals on either side of the bearings and use them, also buy and keep a tube of fevibond too costs about 20 rs only but can save your life ,the threebond paste is expensive as it is imported nowadays

(c) get a new crankshaft assembly or should i get the old one trued? the old one has some horizontal play - about 1 mm; the workshop manual lays down a service limit of .6mm. if you can get an original crank assembly the go for it if you cant find one take it to a good machine shop and ask them to asses the situation depending on the situation you may or may not need to change the conrod set , over sizes are available up to fifth so dont worry on that regard also check the main bearings for fit on the crank shaft it should be push fit

(d) get the carb + oil pump serviced. the kb100 uses the mikcarb vm19sc. the parts catalogue mentions different part numbers for the carbs of the kb100 & kb125 so i guess that these should be different. which carb does the kb125 use, any idea? i know that there is an alternative in paco but i want the mikcarb details. correction kb100 uses mikuni vm19sc not mikarb also the oil pump is of the same make the oil pump though is similar to ones used in suzys and is a plunger type ,and i do think the carbs are same for both ,if you can post a few pics it can be confirmed

(e) finally assemble evrything....phew!
use grease liberally to hold parts like keys balls springs etc do not lose the small bits ,these 5-25 rs parts will drive you crazy use the proper tools for the jobs at hand ,keep you will need pliers needle nose and normal ones for putting in the springs and clips also get one or two scooter or auto tyres and keep the engine cases on top od them while assembling as it will provide you with a flat surface for assembly assembling the engine on the rhs crankcase as it has the gear shifter cam in it , u can use a decent machine-shop to press the bearings into the c-case or you can doit on your own just make sure that you dont scratch any of the mating surfaces of the c-case as it can spring leaks in future

2. Frame/Chassis. pretty straightforward here-

(a) get all the pieces sandblasted and painted (dupont, preferably). two coats of primer - dupont again? what's the primer called? is the dupont paint required to be oven baked? clearcoat before/after the stickering - after i guess. if possible get the frame powder coated rather painting ,as for the paint dupont it is go for all the stuff from dupont and yes stickering is to be done before clear coat and go for 2coats of clear coat for a good shine

(b) get a new seat made. the bottom-plate of the old seat is badly rusted. is there anything i should look for specifically - like a broader seat for my considerable behind? split seats anyone? if available go for fiber(plastic/abs) seat plates that will solve rust problems ,if not go for regular metal seat plates just give them a good coat of paint before you put the foam on top , also go for the correct density of foam you dont want it to be too soft or too hard

(c) get a new set of bolts and assemble everything.

3. Electricals. i understand a bit of positive/negative and how current needs to flow in a loop to get the circuit functioning. no wonder i' a rookie! anyway-

(a) buy a new main harness, LT & charging coils, magneto wire, handlebar combination switches, front & rear stop switches, lamps & bulbs, cdi, regulator, rectifier, ignition coil, spark plug, flasher unit, fuse wire, 15A fuses, battery (12V5AH) - i prefer exide but i'm told amaron's pretty good too...did i miss anything? now, the same query as before. my multimeter tells me that the cdi, flasher unit, rectifier and regulator are okay. should i use the old ones or should i use the the swiss ones i've already bought?
if the originals are working fine then keep them as it is the swiss make regulator is a joke if the original units are from nippon then keep them as it is ,why do you want to change the coils if they are good keep them asit is and dont bother changing them they last long
the same cannot be said about the delhi made stuff
(b) another thing. i've bought a new set of LT coils. the old ones are also there. should i get the old ones rewound for a higher output than the 35W stock? will i need to change the other parts - regulator/rectifier/cdi/battery? will it affect the engine's performance? keep the electricals stock kbs had the brightest headlamps in its class at a time go for halogens from Phillips an forget about it

(c) LED for the tail lights and meter console? by the way, the tail light is 12V 21/5W and the meter console lights are 12V 3.4W each. LEDs will definitely save me some wattage. the only things the battery powers in the kb are the lights and horn and the battery is a 5 amp one what are you going to use the saved watts for ,power an ac keep to the regular bulbs switching to leds will cause the kb to loose its classic charm

(c) take a printout of the circuit diagram and assemble everything.
hmm...............

4. Transmission. now this is where i need maximum help. the idea is to use stock specs and fit pulsar150 front disc brake. here goes-

(a) get a new chain (will a 'o' ring chain be of considerable advantage?), front sprocket is okay, rear one is a goner - do i need to change both simultaneously? front and rear hubs, HH OEM rims (front - 1.60 x 18, rear - 1.85 x 18), tyres- Michellin/Zapper/Dunlop? if Michellin then Sirac Street or M45? spokes - zinc coated, i guess or SS?
go for a new chain sproket kit from rolon or diamond they are cheap and good as for the tyres i leave it to you,for the spokes have heard that a certain delta brand is good

(b) new clutch plates/friction plates (OEM should be available i guess). do i need to change the clutch housing (looks fine to me)? what about the clutch springs? clutch springs should be fine hold the clutchbell with both hands and turn the heat and the bell in the opposite direction if there is no play then you are fine ,if there is play take it to the machineshop and change the packing and put extra rivets kb100 and125 share the same clutchplates so you can use the same part nos and get nos parts from the dealer, the only doubt is the number of plates to be used for the same

(c) now abouth the disc brake setup. buy a p150 fron disc assembly. do i need to buy the pulsar forks too? what about the hub - will i have to get the pulsar hub too? and then i guess i'll have to look for another front mudguard because the stock one won't fit into the pulsar fork. levers and front stop switch - is it included in the disc assembly? need to sort this one out thoroughly - i guess i'll have to read some more!
minimum parts required for the switch are 1) pulsar classic fork lower/outer legs 2)the pulsar front wheel hub 3) front brake disk 4)brake caliper and brake pads 5) brake mastercylinder and hose
6) brake switch 7) the frond wheel speedo pinion housing
5. Miscellaneous. there are plenty of other things - cleaning the silencer, nickelling of the pedals and kicker, which grips are best etc etc.
do not plate parts like silencer,handlebar ,crashguard etc the job will not be as perfect as stock im telling this from experience ass for the grips go for the ones from bullet they are the same for both

if you've read through the entire post, i salute your perseverance and patience. i'll only be too glad to hear from you

i have tried to answer it as best as i can experts and seniors please go through this and correct me if im wrong especially psr sir

ps: you should definitely download an watch mark evans: A bike is born ,it would have given you a good kick to your morale and solved a great deal of your doubts

**rookieraj** · 06-25-2011, 12:18 AM

@kb100: thanks a ton buddy. couldn't help appreciate your sense of humour eg:-

me: get aprintout of the circuit diagram and assemble everything
you: hmmm............

me: tail lamp bulbs are 12V 21/5W......
you: what are you going to do by saving all the power, run an AC?

by the way, i've always appreciated your tips and experience. psr anna and you are the originals, i'm just a pretender.

sleep tight, bye

**kb100** · 06-25-2011, 08:12 AM

its not that easy to make the connections of the wiring harness especially since the wiring kit is made by swiss and i have heard rumours that they had changed the color code of some wires hence they may not match the colours of the old bits simplest way is to take [photos of the connectors in your bikes before dismanteling them and use them as the reference

regarding the leds and stuff you can convert the tail lamps and indicators to leds as they run on dc from the bat but to fix them you will need circuit boards and lay multiple leds in the correct order to get the same level of illumination produced by a single bulb, as for the lights in the speedo it runs on ac and to convert them to leds you will have to make a bridge rectifier to convert ac to dc and then run the leds here however you can use led strips for the job ,

i know...i know i have a lousy sense of humour

**psr** · 06-25-2011, 11:37 AM

Originally posted by rookieraj View Post

1. Engine. the engine is the most important part of the bike, right? so i must first start with that. well, this is what needs to be done-

(a) get the engine covers/crank case et all painted. silver aluminium paint should be fine, isn't it? also, does the paint need to be oven baked? does it need a coat of primer before the paint? if yes, is it a different primer and what is it called?
The aluminum paint is also available in spray can and will do ..no need for oven baking as it hardens fast..just dry them in dust free area, in SUN light for 2 hours.

(b) buy new bearings (skf/nrb), gasket kit, 'o' ring kit, oil seal kit (jk pioneer), new piston + rings (mahle/goetze), allen bolts/screws, accelerator cable, clutch cable, rpm meter cable, neutral switch, rubber/plastic hoses, air filter, 2T oil, transmission oil, threebond...did i forget anything? now, i have a new set of cables but the old ones too don't look too bad. should i plan on using the old ones by lubricating the inners?
If the old ones are good use it, and keep the new ones as spares...Get three bond liquid gasket, it is essential.

(c) get a new crankshaft assembly or should i get the old one trued? the old one has some horizontal play - about 1 mm; the workshop manual lays down a service limit of .6mm.
Unless the old crankshaft is damaged and cannot be set right, no need for new one..But if you can find , and afford one then go for it.

(d) get the carb + oil pump serviced. the kb100 uses the mikcarb vm19sc. the parts catalogue mentions different part numbers for the carbs of the kb100 & kb125 so i guess that these should be different. which carb does the kb125 use, any idea? i know that there is an alternative in paco but i want the mikcarb details.
Mikuni VM19sc is for KB100. Oil pump is also from Mikuni..After more than 1,30,000 Kms i had not found any problem with them, in spite of my experiments..

(e) finally assemble evrything....phew!

2. Frame/Chassis. pretty straightforward here-

(a) get all the pieces sandblasted and painted (dupont, preferably). two coats of primer - dupont again? what's the primer called? is the dupont paint required to be oven baked? clearcoat before/after the stickering - after i guess.
Oven Baking hardens the paint inside out, unlike the normal one which hardens the outer surface first and the inner layer takes time to heal.Stick with normal enamel paint as they have better pliability and can take a beating without chipping.

(b) get a new seat made. the bottom-plate of the old seat is badly rusted. is there anything i should look for specifically - like a broader seat for my considerable behind? split seats anyone?
The original seat is good..For the seat saddle clean the rust and use enamel paint.

(c) get a new set of bolts and assemble everything.
Good

3. Electricals. i understand a bit of positive/negative and how current needs to flow in a loop to get the circuit functioning. no wonder i' a rookie! anyway-

(a) buy a new main harness, LT & charging coils, magneto wire, handlebar combination switches, front & rear stop switches, lamps & bulbs, cdi, regulator, rectifier, ignition coil, spark plug, flasher unit, fuse wire, 15A fuses, battery (12V5AH) - i prefer exide but i'm told amaron's pretty good too...did i miss anything? now, the same query as before. my multimeter tells me that the cdi, flasher unit, rectifier and regulator are okay. should i use the old ones or should i use the the swiss ones i've already bought?
The choice is yours..

(b) another thing. i've bought a new set of LT coils. the old ones are also there. should i get the old ones rewound for a higher output than the 35W stock? will i need to change the other parts - regulator/rectifier/cdi/battery? will it affect the engine's performance?
Yes you can rewind it for higher ampere for a higher headlight power.it will not affect any of the other areas if you and the winder knows what you are doing..if not DO NOT ATTEMPT IT.

(c) LED for the tail lights and meter console? by the way, the tail light is 12V 21/5W and the meter console lights are 12V 3.4W each. LEDs will definitely save me some wattage.
YES

(c) take a printout of the circuit diagram and assemble everything.
Good idea

4. Transmission. now this is where i need maximum help. the idea is to use stock specs and fit pulsar150 front disc brake. here goes-

(a) get a new chain (will a 'o' ring chain be of considerable advantage?), front sprocket is okay, rear one is a goner - do i need to change both simultaneously? front and rear hubs, HH OEM rims (front - 1.60 x 18, rear - 1.85 x 18), tyres- Michellin/Zapper/Dunlop? if Michellin then Sirac Street or M45? spokes - zinc coated, i guess or SS?
I have very little knowledge in this area...so can not give any idea.

(b) new clutch plates/friction plates (OEM should be available i guess). do i need to change the clutch housing (looks fine to me)? what about the clutch springs?
Don't fix or change what is working

(c) now abouth the disc brake setup. buy a p150 fron disc assembly. do i need to buy the pulsar forks too? what about the hub - will i have to get the pulsar hub too? and then i guess i'll have to look for another front mudguard because the stock one won't fit into the pulsar fork. levers and front stop switch - is it included in the disc assembly? need to sort this one out thoroughly - i guess i'll have to read some more!

5. Miscellaneous. there are plenty of other things - cleaning the silencer, nickelling of the pedals and kicker, which grips are best etc etc.

if you've read through the entire post, i salute your perseverance and patience. i'll only be too glad to hear from you

Relies in bold.

**rookieraj** · 06-25-2011, 12:07 PM

Originally posted by kb100 View Post

its not that easy to make the connections of the wiring harness ........photos of the connectors in your bikes before dismanteling them and use them as the reference will follow your suggestions. i have the old harness intact so i'll compare all connectors and will also perform a continuity test to check which wire goes where. now this is what i call experience - knowing what is wrong with which after market spare.

regarding the leds and stuff you can convert the tail lamps and indicators to leds as they run on dc from the bat but to fix them you will need circuit boards and lay multiple leds in the correct order to get the same level of illumination produced by a single bulb have done that on my Pulsar150 so should not be a problem

i know...i know i have a lousy sense of humour i prefer your understated humour rather than the 'in-your-face' type which is rather offensive. and your sense of humourone of the reasons why i hold you in such high regard

replies in bold

**kb100** · 06-25-2011, 06:00 PM

whatever you do keep the following points in mind

1)If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked something. ( this came true just a few hrs ago in my kb,dont ask what)
2)In nature, nothing is ever right. Therefore, if everything is going right ... something is wrong.
and the most important one 3)If anything can go wrong, it will.

i hate to tell you this but i have to after todays horrible experience just dont ask what, its too depressing for me to discuss

**psr** · 06-25-2011, 11:55 PM

Originally posted by kb100 View Post

whatever you do keep the following points in mind

1)If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked something. ( this came true just a few hrs ago in my kb,dont ask what)
2)In nature, nothing is ever right. Therefore, if everything is going right ... something is wrong.
and the most important one 3)If anything can go wrong, it will.

i hate to tell you this but i have to after todays horrible experience just dont ask what, its too depressing for me to discuss

So you had been procuring spares and trying to fit them.

when everything is coming your way....you are on the wrong side of road.
If there is a chance for anything to go wrong..IT WILL...
Murphy's Law never fails...many times after finishing assembly of engine I had found an extra screw, or 'O' ring, or new oil seal...but i had patiently redone the entire thing from start...Though the words i mumble at that time will scorch concrete walls.

**kb100** · 06-26-2011, 07:41 AM

Originally posted by psr View Post

So you had been procuring spares and trying to fit them.

when everything is coming your way....you are on the wrong side of road.
If there is a chance for anything to go wrong..IT WILL...
Murphy's Law never fails...many times after finishing assembly of engine I had found an extra screw, or 'O' ring, or new oil seal...but i had patiently redone the entire thing from start...Though the words i mumble at that time will scorch concrete walls.

what happened is much much worse

**rookieraj** · 06-28-2011, 11:24 PM

@kb100

here are the bearing part numbers

**kb100** · 06-29-2011, 07:46 AM

the one without no is 6004

i just wanted to know wether they had clarence ratings on them the same number will apply for all makes

**rookieraj** · 07-30-2011, 01:06 PM

a little progress on the DIY rebuild. got the parts after being painted. here's how the tank and side panels look.

**yamdoot** · 07-30-2011, 07:54 PM

The tank Kawasaki logo has become a bit too large. If you havent laquered it yet, remove and make a well proportioned logo again.

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