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It is very simple to identify. All Jawa , Yezdi all model bikes Cylinder (Bore) is smaller in size and the fuel inlet port is integrated with crank case and carburetor fixed in engine case not in cylinder. But Road king cylinder (Bore) is bigger and the fuel inlet port is integrated with cylinder and carburetor fixed in cylinder not in crank case. 2nd RK have engine cover has separate housing for oil pump , But oil pump only presents in Oil King model, for Road king it is just Dummy Housing. 3rd RK have Carb cover rest incrank case in rectangle shape, But Jawa & Yezdi have in Ovel shape.These are the visual difference you can notice easily.Please find attached photos for clear understanding.Originally posted by sanjithjoseph View PostI'm new to the world of Yezdi s
Just came to know from my friend that many people are selling Yezdi classic fitted with Roadking's tank and logos....
I have seen the technical specifications of both in the starting of this thread..
But in looks how can we differentiate both classic and Roadking even if the tank and other parts are from Roadking?
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I'm new to the world of Yezdi s
Just came to know from my friend that many people are selling Yezdi classic fitted with Roadking's tank and logos....
I have seen the technical specifications of both in the starting of this thread..
But in looks how can we differentiate both classic and Roadking even if the tank and other parts are from Roadking?
Leave a comment:
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Go with the recommended plug and air filter coz any mods may be detrimental to the bike ... and if u bust your engine, u will be in trouble ...Originally posted by kvv View Postthanks for the info shankargp.... will try it sometime soon.......
can u help me with the spark plug and the air filter????
I heard for the spark plug Bosch platinum-iridium is good and the pipercross stock replacement filter is good........ wat do u suggest????
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thanks for the info shankargp.... will try it sometime soon.......Originally posted by shankarggp View PostHi KVV,THis is simple conversion,Dont worry about welding , everting covered inside the 2 plates below the side doors.Please check my albums after conversion photos.
Part need to be reworked only Pedal cam Lever & Brake rod Patti ( Which connects cable & Pedal). Try this with new part, So you have back up of cable if something goes Worng.
1. Purchase one HH CD 100 Brake Link rod ( Which Connectes Pedal & Rear Wheel Brake came lever and this is going to replace the Cable)
2. Now we need to extend the pedal cam knurling rod from right side of the bike till left side of bike to make the both Pedal & Wheel cam in one line to connect with Brake Link rid.measure the Length with some small stick or old spokes which can enter this area.
Part off the Rod from Pedal cam lever which have knurling to fit with pedal. 3. Take the similar diameter rod and weld and extend the Knurling part then weld with lever. remove extra welded burs with grinding and make rod perfect, Since the extendted rod should rotate inside the extended brake rod patti.
3. Take the Tube which can allow the extended pedel cam rod inside and weld with existing brake rod patti with some play in length. use drill to clear the inside hole at jointed area.
4. Thats all just fix it back all the parts in place and connect the HH brake link rod instead of brake cable. Please apply some grease when assemble the rod in side patti for reduce the friction.
Remark: make welding joint end tappered for good welding strength.
It will work fine.
can u help me with the spark plug and the air filter????
I heard for the spark plug Bosch platinum-iridium is good and the pipercross stock replacement filter is good........ wat do u suggest????
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Originally posted by shankarggp View PostHi KVV,THis is simple conversion,Dont worry about welding , everting covered inside the 2 plates below the side doors.Please check my albums after conversion photos.
Part need to be reworked only Pedal cam Lever & Brake rod Patti ( Which connects cable & Pedal). Try this with new part, So you have back up of cable if something goes Worng.
1. Purchase one HH CD 100 Brake Link rod ( Which Connectes Pedal & Rear Wheel Brake came lever and this is going to replace the Cable)
2. Now we need to extend the pedal cam knurling rod from right side of the bike till left side of bike to make the both Pedal & Wheel cam in one line to connect with Brake Link rid.measure the Length with some small stick or old spokes which can enter this area.
Part off the Rod from Pedal cam lever which have knurling to fit with pedal. 3. Take the similar diameter rod and weld and extend the Knurling part then weld with lever. remove extra welded burs with grinding and make rod perfect, Since the extendted rod should rotate inside the extended brake rod patti.
3. Take the Tube which can allow the extended pedel cam rod inside and weld with existing brake rod patti with some play in length. use drill to clear the inside hole at jointed area.
4. Thats all just fix it back all the parts in place and connect the HH brake link rod instead of brake cable. Please apply some grease when assemble the rod in side patti for reduce the friction.
Remark: make welding joint end tappered for good welding strength.
It will work fine.
A very neat description of the work...Really a great job you people are doing here by sharing info like this..
Hope me too can join here for Yezdi discussions some time in future...(In search for a Yezdi RoadKing)
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Cable to Rod Brake Conversion
Hi KVV,THis is simple conversion,Dont worry about welding , everting covered inside the 2 plates below the side doors.Please check my albums after conversion photos.Originally posted by kvv View Posthey shankargp(hunter) nice restroration of your roadking.....
I saw your rear brake its the rod type not the wire..... I also wanted that braking could let me know what is the process and mine is a newly painted bike so does it damage the paint and also could u tell me how is the braking???? As mine really poor....
Part need to be reworked only Pedal cam Lever & Brake rod Patti ( Which connects cable & Pedal). Try this with new part, So you have back up of cable if something goes Worng.
1. Purchase one HH CD 100 Brake Link rod ( Which Connectes Pedal & Rear Wheel Brake came lever and this is going to replace the Cable)
2. Now we need to extend the pedal cam knurling rod from right side of the bike till left side of bike to make the both Pedal & Wheel cam in one line to connect with Brake Link rid.measure the Length with some small stick or old spokes which can enter this area.
Part off the Rod from Pedal cam lever which have knurling to fit with pedal. 3. Take the similar diameter rod and weld and extend the Knurling part then weld with lever. remove extra welded burs with grinding and make rod perfect, Since the extendted rod should rotate inside the extended brake rod patti.
3. Take the Tube which can allow the extended pedel cam rod inside and weld with existing brake rod patti with some play in length. use drill to clear the inside hole at jointed area.
4. Thats all just fix it back all the parts in place and connect the HH brake link rod instead of brake cable. Please apply some grease when assemble the rod in side patti for reduce the friction.
Remark: make welding joint end tappered for good welding strength.
It will work fine.
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Thank you srini, I remeber You in Yahoo Yezdi Group. THe third one is just half round of short core cutted in length wise. but there is no mark of cutting. So I thought it is third type, May be it got grinded on the both edges for perfect finish. Hope some one dont want to remove full core made and fixed thisway. My doubt is clear.Originally posted by srinikasyap View PostHi Shankar, hope you remember me.
Anyways nice to see you here in this forum.
I have seen two such types of cores, called Full core and short core.
Can you put some pics, so that we can see what the third type.
I am not sure if bikes came out with cores factory fitted. But the normal is Full core. Least noise, and better milage. Short core gives more noise than the full core.
Is the silensor end dummy will create any adverse effect to Engine ?
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It happend to me too in Hyderabad.But my mechanic vanished with my road king Engine & chassis Now I have only RC & body parts of that bikeOriginally posted by Hafeexius View PostPosting here after a really long time...
1.Has anyone from Hyderabad head of a mechanic named Chiranjeevi? He used to work at the Yezdi authorised service center at Kachiguda before it shut shop. I cant seem to find him anywaywhere. Its like he just disappeared. He used to work on my Roadking and he really knew what he was doing. Once he tunes/rebuilds your bike, trust me, you will NEVER go anywhere else.
2.Does anyone know of some other mechanic who can do a good job? So far no one's been able to get my bike's performance up to scratch.
3.Can my bike be converted to CDI? Its getting really annoying to keep adjusting the points every now and then.
4.Coil rewinding... headlight output is absolutely pathetic. I was planning on rewinding the lighting coils myself with thicker guage wire but lack of time prevents me from taking it up. If anyone does a decent job anywhere in Hyderabad, please let me know.
Would really appreciate some replies to my questions. Thanks
. But I seen some mechanics working on Yezdi Near Hyderabad Railway station and Ram koti circle.
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Hi Shankar, hope you remember me.Originally posted by shankarggp View PostHappy to see knowledge sharing between lot of Jawa Yezdi owners in this forum, I am shankar From Coimbatore and I have collection few classic motor cylces and cars.
I seen 3 different types (Longer, Shorter & half round one) of silensor cores in my Jawa, yezdi & RK when dismadled them for restoration. I found some dummy cup fixed at the end of silensor. Can any one know which one blongs to which model of Jawa Yezdi bikes, any differnce in performance, I noticed exast note is different for each type of core.
Anyways nice to see you here in this forum.
I have seen two such types of cores, called Full core and short core.
Can you put some pics, so that we can see what the third type.
I am not sure if bikes came out with cores factory fitted. But the normal is Full core. Least noise, and better milage. Short core gives more noise than the full core.
Leave a comment:
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hey shankargp(hunter) nice restroration of your roadking.....
I saw your rear brake its the rod type not the wire..... I also wanted that braking could let me know what is the process and mine is a newly painted bike so does it damage the paint and also could u tell me how is the braking???? As mine really poor....
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Yezdi rear shocks are not available in market, If available also it cost between 1.5 to 2K in Hyderabad. Accidiently I got one New set of yezdi shocks in one shocks repair shop for normal price,Originally posted by bhs View PostThanks Srini for quick reply. Even if expensive, can we get one. How expensive do you think ?
Please post pics.
since the shop keeper don't know that shocks belongs to yezdi.
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You can use Royel enfield bullet Head light reflectors, It is direct fit and gives good illumination with Helogen Bulb.Originally posted by kvv View PostI picked up a roadking 1994 CDi 2 months back which is fully done up....
now i needed to do some repairs can any body help me...
1)suggest a good air filter
2)good headlight reflectors
3)spark plug
and also let me know the place to pick it up in bangalore...
thank you
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Silensor Core
Happy to see knowledge sharing between lot of Jawa Yezdi owners in this forum, I am shankar From Coimbatore and I have collection few classic motor cylces and cars.
I seen 3 different types (Longer, Shorter & half round one) of silensor cores in my Jawa, yezdi & RK when dismadled them for restoration. I found some dummy cup fixed at the end of silensor. Can any one know which one blongs to which model of Jawa Yezdi bikes, any differnce in performance, I noticed exast note is different for each type of core.
Leave a comment:
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I paid 33k and did some work on looks by myself.......
and pictures i'll put up soon.....
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