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  • Originally posted by FATAL1TY - X View Post
    it appears from the manual that you have to use hh 10w30 or else the bike will go kaboom! that is one big pile of s*it. what kind of people are running hero honda company these days. orangutans do a better job

    and thanks for taking the trouble of taking pictures and posting. you really wanted to enlighten me. didnt you?
    More so to arm prospective buyers that they may have some idea about what bull** they shall have to deal with , soon
    Plus hopefully some of these company people are reading our forums ....
    Last edited by Pinaki; 01-16-2011, 07:47 PM.

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    • Originally posted by FATAL1TY - X View Post
      it appears from the manual that you have to use hh 10w30 or else the bike will go kaboom! that is one big pile of s*it. what kind of people are running hero honda company these days. orangutans do a better job

      and thanks for taking the trouble of taking pictures and posting. you really wanted to enlighten me. didnt you?
      HeroHonda are one of the best painters u can get i the country.... the end
      RED BULL did'nt give me WINGS, my BIKE did !!

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Pinaki View Post
        I am not absolutely sure ... but from the manual and talking to the HH service manager and the fact that no other 10w30 SJ JASO MA mineral oil in market than theirs ...it seems so to me .I am presently running the recomended oil for your bike 20w40 yamalube ( very good oil !! ) but in the SL variety . The SG is said to be cheaper and better , so naturally yamaha parts counters here doesn't keep it anymore .
        Originally posted by Pinaki View Post
        More so to arm prospective buyers that they may have some idea about what bull** they shall have to deal with , soon
        Plus hopefully some of these company people are reading our forums ....
        Not only hero honda but the major bike companies like honda & yamaha also do the same. The only difference is that HH is specifically mentioning it.
        NOT BEEN THERE NOT DONE THAT

        Comment


        • IMO, it's not worth to buy an expensive oil for a long run between oil changes. The petrol we get is of very low quality compared to that in other European countries where they strictly follow the emission norms. If we were provided better grade petrol, then sachin wouldnt want to have specially refined blended fuel from BPCL for his ferrari.
          What I am saying is, since the fuel quality is very low, there'll be more contamination, and hence the lube will get spoiled fast. So is it healthy for the engine to run long with this carbon load for over 7k kms even if its running on an engine oil that costs around 1000.???????
          Last edited by Mecho; 01-18-2011, 12:22 PM.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Mecho View Post
            IMO, it's not worth to buy an expensive oil for a long run between oil changes. The petrol we get is of very low quality compared to that in other European countries where they strictly follow the emission norms. If we were provided better grade petrol, then sachin wouldnt want to have specially refined blended fuel from BPCL for his ferrari.
            What I am saying is, since the fuel quality is very low, there'll be more contamination, and hence the lube will get spoiled fast. So is it healthy for the engine to run long with this carbon load for over 7k kms even if its running on an engine oil that costs around 1000.???????
            it is not just fuel, but also the engine design and tuning plays a major role. a rich running engine produces more carbon and will spoil an engine oil faster so does a low compression engine. but still the fuel we get is of below cheap quality. i bought some petrol in a 1l bottle a few days ago and i saw particles in it.

            in my case, defenitely motul 300v is not a long drain interval oil. i'll happily change my oil before 5000kms and not any longer. i wont use no synthetic oil for more than 5000 kms unless i get enough data which supports their long drain interval claim.

            99% our indian engines does not need any higher grade fuel because they are tuned to run on our low quality fuel.
            Last edited by FATAL1TY - X; 01-18-2011, 03:01 PM.
            2002 Herculese Top Gear 6 speed
            2014 Btwin Rock Rider 8.1
            1990 Yamaha RX110
            2010 Yamaha YZF-R15
            2015 KTM RC390 (Sold)
            2018 TVS Apache RR 310

            2007 Suzuki Alto Lxi

            Comment


            • Originally posted by FATAL1TY - X View Post
              it is not just fuel, but also the engine design and tuning plays a major role. a rich running engine produces more carbon and will spoil an engine oil faster so does a low compression engine. but still the fuel we get is of below cheap quality. i bought some petrol in a 1l bottle a few days ago and i saw particles in it.

              in my case, defenitely motul 300v is not a long drain interval oil. i'll happily change my oil before 5000kms and not any longer. i wont use no synthetic oil for more than 5000 kms unless i get enough data which supports their long drain interval claim.

              99% our indian engines does not need any higher grade fuel because they are tuned to run on our low quality fuel.
              sorry ..my bad.. didnt understand what u mean by a rich running engine.. If u meant an engine that comsumes a bit more fuel that that the company prescribes, then that engine will have a longer life.. Cos if an engine need to remain healthy, then almost complete combustion shud happen in there..enough fuel enough air etc..If a pulsar 150 starts giving mileage like 75km/l then it's sure that it's burning air or the mixture is lean and not a healthy air-fuel mixture..

              and for the quality of fuel we get, no matter if we use the most expensive lube we cud get our hand to...we need to change it after a certain limited KMs as the carbon deposit depends on the quality of fuel ,air filter etc and not the quality of the lube ..that's IMHO!!
              Last edited by Mecho; 01-18-2011, 10:26 PM.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Mecho View Post
                sorry ..my bad.. didnt understand what u mean by a rich running engine.. If u meant an engine that comsumes a bit more fuel that that the company prescribes, then that engine will have a longer life.. Cos if an engine need to remain healthy, then almost complete combustion shud happen in there..enough fuel enough air etc..If a pulsar 150 starts giving mileage like 75km/l then it's sure that it's burning air or the mixture is lean and not a healthy air-fuel mixture..

                and for the quality of fuel we get, no matter if we use the most expensive lube we cud get our hand to...we need to change it after a certain limited KMs as the carbon deposit depends on the quality of fuel ,air filter etc and not the quality of the lube ..that's IMHO!!
                off course it will have a longer life if it is just a bit more. the carburated engines never achieves a near neater fueling like an FI engine. i personally run my rx100 rich on 160 size mains where the stock is 115. but that is a 2 stroke and mine runs on premix. so to compensate the oil added to the fuel i run a larger mainjet and mine is slightly tuned too. the problem with the wet sump petrol 4 strokes are that if the fueling is on the richer side than reccommended, oil on the cylinder wall(and the piston skirt if there is enough blow by) will get washed out because of the excess fuel and the carb also will have a hard time atomizing all that fuel. usually with normal combustion the carbon produced will go out of the exhaust, but without the oil in place because fuel washing out all the oil from cyl wall, wear occurs and oil burns causing carbon build up(thats why some guys have oil burning issues on the long run, because of running rich or using choke excessively). so in simple terms a rich running engine is not always the best(except diesels). and so there is also the issue of spark plugs fouling.

                and these days with the tighter emission norms, every manufacturer factory tune their engines lean. the dissadvantages(overheating, excess wear etc) of a lean mixture can be addressed with proper cooling methods and lubrication. that is why i said that engine design plays a major role than the quality of fuel used.
                2002 Herculese Top Gear 6 speed
                2014 Btwin Rock Rider 8.1
                1990 Yamaha RX110
                2010 Yamaha YZF-R15
                2015 KTM RC390 (Sold)
                2018 TVS Apache RR 310

                2007 Suzuki Alto Lxi

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Mecho View Post
                  IMO, it's not worth to buy an expensive oil for a long run between oil changes. The petrol we get is of very low quality compared to that in other European countries where they strictly follow the emission norms. If we were provided better grade petrol, then sachin wouldnt want to have specially refined blended fuel from BPCL for his ferrari.
                  What I am saying is, since the fuel quality is very low, there'll be more contamination, and hence the lube will get spoiled fast. So is it healthy for the engine to run long with this carbon load for over 7k kms even if its running on an engine oil that costs around 1000.???????
                  With all my bikes & vehicles up to now (i'm near 40 ) , i've always bought the cheapest oil available in correct grade for the engine , usually from IOL/HP/BP pumps and changed in 1000-2000 kilos max . Recently I have used the cheap oils from gulf/elf/motul/veedol which comes in pouches , for I think it would be rather difficult to make fake pouch-packs than bottles ( i'm dead scared of fakes & they are abundant in market here) . This was with my earlier bikes . The oils were around 100Rs per liter . They all ran pretty happy for 1500kms. I wouldn't be comfy to run any Indian oil for 6000 Kilos . Frequent change is a better insurance for the engine than a better oil IMHO . Less environment friendly method ,yes .

                  ps - Sachin's oil comes in pints ?
                  Last edited by Pinaki; 01-19-2011, 12:02 AM.

                  Comment


                  • @pinaki

                    Thumbs up bro!

                    Just perfect!
                    07 HH Zma
                    11 Honda Aviator DLX
                    14 Ford Figo 1.4 TDCI (Now Caged:( )
                    16 Scooty Zest
                    11 CBR 250R

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Pinaki View Post
                      With all my bikes & vehicles up to now (i'm near 40 ) , i've always bought the cheapest oil available in correct grade for the engine , usually from IOL/HP/BP pumps and changed in 1000-2000 kilos max . Recently I have used the cheap oils from gulf/elf/motul/veedol which comes in pouches , for I think it would be rather difficult to make fake pouch-packs than bottles ( i'm dead scared of fakes & they are abundant in market here) . This was with my earlier bikes . The oils were around 100Rs per liter . They all ran pretty happy for 1500kms. I wouldn't be comfy to run any Indian oil for 5000 Kilos . Frequent change is a better insurance for the engine than a better oil IMHO . Less environment friendly method ,yes .

                      ps - Sachin's oil comes in pints ?
                      that sounds reasonable
                      2002 Herculese Top Gear 6 speed
                      2014 Btwin Rock Rider 8.1
                      1990 Yamaha RX110
                      2010 Yamaha YZF-R15
                      2015 KTM RC390 (Sold)
                      2018 TVS Apache RR 310

                      2007 Suzuki Alto Lxi

                      Comment


                      • Adding my 2 cents of experience...

                        In all my 13+ years of ownership with my Rx I've been using several engine oils from the Castrol days to the recent AGIP/ELF. Only the last weekend, I was forced to use Motul 5100 by SriramEFunds. Needless to say, the change is awesome, I've never ever felt the smoothness of the engine or the gear shift to be so buttery EVER in 13+ years.

                        My point - If the transmission oil or 2T oil or whatever is bought from AUTHORIZED dealer, there's nothing to freak out on getting cheated or fake ones. Yes, it does comes with a good price. But again, this suggestion is not for people who'd like to change their rides at the drop of a bolt-nut, but who cares for their rides.
                        Skill is what keeps you on a Motorcycle
                        Awareness + Skill is what keeps you out of harm's way
                        ATGATT + Awareness + Skill means you might Live To Ride another day

                        Comment


                        • Something interesting that I want to share with my fellow Ninja owners. I hope you all find it useful.

                          Speedworks

                          I have used the OWS engine oil, the Engine Protector (engine oil additive) and the injector cleaner in my esteem and found the products to be good.

                          My next oil change will be from Motul Semi Synth to the OWS 600 Series Fully Synth 15W50 oil with the engine oil additive. Will also use their coolant and post a review on the performance (cooling area). I found the prices to be reasonable compared to Motul's synthetic oils.

                          Order online if interested.

                          P.S. I have no commercial or any other vested interest in this company or their products. Just sharing this piece of info for the benefit of others.

                          If anyone else has used these products please share your experience/feedback.

                          Edit - One more link I came across but have no experience with products from this store : http://www.pro10.in/
                          Last edited by n_aditya; 01-19-2011, 04:23 PM.
                          ATGATT - Because hospital ceilings are boring !!!

                          Comment


                          • @^^^^ from what i have heard and read online engine oil additives should be added in mineral oil and not in synthetics . synthetics already have many additives etc to make the oil better than minerals . why not go for Motul 300v or shell full synthetic oils

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Puneet1 View Post
                              From what i have heard and read online engine oil additives should be added in mineral oil and not in synthetics . synthetics already have many additives etc to make the oil better than minerals . why not go for Motul 300v or shell full synthetic oils
                              OWS 600 Series Fully Synth 15W50 - 630 bucks per liter

                              Motul 300V Fully Synth - ~900 bucks a liter

                              Motul 5100 Semi Synth 15W50 - 550 bucks a liter.

                              So if I can get the same level of performance from OWS compared to Motul and save around 250 bucks a liter, why not OWS? And the Ninja needs 1.6 liters of oil (with oil filter change).

                              Makes economical sense for me to go for OWS but need to know if its as good as Motul 300V or better.
                              ATGATT - Because hospital ceilings are boring !!!

                              Comment


                              • @^^^ yes it will be cheaper if you don't put the additive also with oil which you specified earlier .anyway do post your experience with this oil as i havent heard /seen this brand up here in north india .also the motul semi synth is 450 rs mrp till last month iirc.
                                Last edited by Puneet1; 01-19-2011, 07:40 PM.

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