Engine Oils

[muztariq]

muztariq-ji, which is best for long life of engine. Iam not interested in quick acceleration / performance. Just regular commuting and to keep the engine ticking in top condition for a really long time.

My experience says Yamalube 20W40 or Motul 3000 20W40 are very good.

[FranklySpeaking]

SAE tells us about flow of the oil at various temperatures.

One more property is not explained by these agencies.. Thats 'Stickiness'.

At same temperature different oils are having different stickiness.

Take two identical glass plates and incline them at the same angle. Now add two drops of 20W40 grade oil.. 1) Lal Ghora 20W40 from HP 2) Castrol Active 20w40 3) Yamalube 20W40

I bet lal ghora will come down in a flash, followed by castrol (the flow and color of these oils - Lal Ghora and Castrol Active is so similar that I consider these are same, Castrol buys a lot of lube from HPCL - May be both are same) then Yamalube.

Dont know where will the Elf fall amongst these grades. But as per Pinakiji's observations.. I think it will be somewhere near to Yamalube.

He was referring to thick/thickness only, which as far as I know has to do only with the viscosity. Not sure how stickiness came into picture.

I can run the experiment with video if someone bet for it.

Please. I would appreciate if you could put up a video showing how much of a difference in stickiness of these oils is. That would be an eye opener for me.

Just for your info.. Mobil Delvac 15W40 is very sticky and doesnt come out of the bottle easily. I had troubles taking out 1l from my 5l pack. Forcing me to believe that the Additive package is responsible for stickiness of the oil.

Surprising. Did you check the Date of Packaging on the container? I have seen the oil at the bottom of the container become thicker (and stickier?) when the oil container is not moved for let's say many years. If it was a newly packed oil, I am surprised to know that you found it hard to take the last 1 LITER of damned oil out of the container itself. Dont you think property of being sticky to this extent would not even let the oil to be pumped up to the engine, leave aside sticking to the walls?!

Now, this is one reason why I never buy oils that were packed long time ago.

[shoeb2015]

Just for your info.. Mobil Delvac 15W40 is very sticky and doesnt come out of the bottle easily. I had troubles taking out 1l from my 5l pack. Forcing me to believe that the Additive package is responsible for stickiness of the oil.

YES,I find all diesel engine oils to be very "sticky" when compared to petrol engine oils.
My car requires 5.5L oil and I purchase 6L oil because all of the oil in the can never comes out while emptying it,some 300-400ml of oil sticks to the can's walls and it takes about an hour of inverted can to get that.

Any owner who has both petrol and diesel cars will have observed this while changing oil.

[Honda_CBF]

He he, SAE has just failed then.

may be may not be. What I (and most probably pinaki ji too) were telling about the "feel" from the bike. I've also noticed Honda's 20w40 is thinner than most 20w40.

Any owner who has both petrol and diesel cars will have observed this while changing oil.

another thing I noticed about this petrol v/s diesel oil is,
15w40 diesel oil's viscousity seems similar to 20w50 petrol engine oil.
Btw, didn't found any engine oil so much sticky that even a inverted bottle can hold even 400-500ml though 100-200ml is understandable.

[muztariq]

He was referring to thick/thickness only, which as far as I know has to do only with the viscosity. Not sure how stickiness came into picture.

Pinakiji considers thickness and viscosity differently. He correlates density with thickness. (which I consider wrong)
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/792698-post4873.html

Surprising. Did you check the Date of Packaging on the container? I have seen the oil at the bottom of the container become thicker (and stickier?) when the oil container is not moved for let's say many years. If it was a newly packed oil, I am surprised to know that you found it hard to take the last 1 LITER of damned oil out of the container itself. Dont you think property of being sticky to this extent would not even let the oil to be pumped up to the engine, leave aside sticking to the walls?!


The problem is when you tilt the bottle to pour the oil, the oil should run and fill up the engine fast. But on this oil, it takes a lot of time to do that. To quantify, if your normal oil takes 30 sec to fill up the engine. This oil takes 60 sec to fill up the engine and the oil sticking to the walls takes a lot more time to come out! I discontinued as the dipstick showed optimum level of oil.

YES,I find all diesel engine oils to be very "sticky" when compared to petrol engine oils.
My car requires 5.5L oil and I purchase 6L oil because all of the oil in the can never comes out while emptying it,some 300-400ml of oil sticks to the can's walls and it takes about an hour of inverted can to get that.

Any owner who has both petrol and diesel cars will have observed this while changing oil.

Thanks for the update.. I used a Heavy Duty Diesel oil for the first time and was surprised to see it sticking a lot to the walls of my transparent Dew Soft drink bottle. Though I have once used Lal Ghora from HP in my old splendor and found it having normal stickiness.

[Ulti Racer]

A little advice from my side.
If your going to try new oil better stick to given viscoscity ratings.For example if 20w40 is mentioned go for <=(less than equal to)20w40(keep this constant/same).AFAIK there is no harm done but am feeling the engine is not rev free above 6000rpm after changing with 20w50 for 20w40 oil.

[Pinaki]

Thin oils are also available from Elf, like Total Quartz 0W30 and 5W30.

with 'thick' he didn't meant the grade. Elf's 20w40 oil itself is thicker than most 20w40. One can tell this by the response of bike after oil change.

He he, SAE has just failed then.

Really , I wasn't thinking about the SAE numbers on the bottle when I said that , just how remarkably thick the oil felt on the funnel I use, while I was pouring it in .
I have no means to comment whether an oil's SAE grade measures true to what it comes labeled as , so like everyone else I take that for granted .
Yes , I am still unclear why the same SAE grade oil of different makes or types feels different in density etc at least in room temperatures (i.e when I pour it in) ... I dunno .

Pinakiji considers thickness and viscosity differently. He correlates density with thickness. (which I consider wrong)...

With laymen like me , thickness means density .... the way we say that blood is thicker than water , I mean when people generally speak of fluids they usually don't propound how well it flows or not in thin tubes or through small orifices(how viscous they are) etc etc . No ? Though i am quite willing to exclude some of us on the oil thread from the word people .

A little advice from my side.
If your going to try new oil better stick to given viscoscity ratings.For example if 20w40 is mentioned go for <=(less than equal to)20w40(keep this constant/same).AFAIK there is no harm done but am feeling the engine is not rev free above 6000rpm after changing with 20w50 for 20w40 oil.

If your engine specs and ambient temperatures does not warrant a 20w50 and you have used it instead of the 20w40 which was appropriate for your riding conditions just because you wanted to , that is what you are going to feel . We have felt that all along too .
However there shall be no damage to your bike from using a higher SAE grade oil at all , just use it up and then switch back to 20w40 asap .

[rajaselvam_1987]

Today i've changed the engine oil to Shell Advance 4X7.
now engine vibration reduced & feel smooth

[vivekgautams]

Does the presence of esters in FS oil cause the clutch plate to ware out quicker..??Especially in bikes who's recommendation is only SS oil...??
My RTR got a worn CP in 1.2k km, running on Shell Advanced Ultra 10W40 FS..Is the FS to be blamed or my insane city riding..??

[shahbaz63]

Well I am using same Engine Oil but never found any issue, infact bike perfroms well & now there is hardly a vibration after ripping for 2-3 minutes initally ..

The only con is Engine heats much now

[Honda_CBF]

Does the presence of esters in FS oil cause the clutch plate to ware out quicker..??Especially in bikes who's recommendation is only SS oil...??
My RTR got a worn CP in 1.2k km, running on Shell Advanced Ultra 10W40 FS..Is the FS to be blamed or my insane city riding..??

if the oil is marked JASO MA/MA1/MA2 then oil won't cause any clutch slippage.
One can use oil which exceeds the recommendations. So using FS in SS recommendation is not a problem.
Shell advance ultra doesn't contain any esters, in fact its just a highly refined mineral oil (group 3 base oil) which can be said to have 'almost' similar properties like FS oil.
I recommend you to claim warranty. Busted clutch plates at 1.2k kms is unheard of. Its only possible when one's slipping clutch on will or because of poor material/ill adjustments.

[vivekgautams]

if the oil is marked JASO MA/MA1/MA2 then oil won't cause any clutch slippage.
One can use oil which exceeds the recommendations. So using FS in SS recommendation is not a problem.
Shell advance ultra doesn't contain any esters, in fact its just a highly refined mineral oil (group 3 base oil) which can be said to have 'almost' similar properties like FS oil.
I recommend you to claim warranty. Busted clutch plates at 1.2k kms is unheard of. Its only possible when one's slipping clutch on will or because of poor material/ill adjustments.

Bike has covered 14.2k km..And only 1.2k km after filling FS oil..I have no idea what was marked on the oil can when I purchased..
TVS recommends 10W30 SS But I've filled 10W40 FS, Is it gonna cause serious problems..??

[muztariq]

Bike has covered 14.2k km..And only 1.2k km after filling FS oil..I have no idea what was marked on the oil can when I purchased..
TVS recommends 10W30 SS But I've filled 10W40 FS, Is it gonna cause serious problems..??

your clutch was in a bad shape when you used this oil.. You can continue using the clutch with mineral oils.. For FS iys not in suitable condition. Shell is JASO certified, so no problems.

[vivekgautams]

your clutch was in a bad shape when you used this oil.. You can continue using the clutch with mineral oils.. For FS iys not in suitable condition. Shell is JASO certified, so no problems.

The clutch is working fine now.. Only thing is that it should not completely die off on the highway . How about adding AX-7 to the FS..??Will it help..??

[muztariq]

The clutch is working fine now.. Only thing is that it should not completely die off on the highway . How about adding AX-7 to the FS..??Will it help..??

adding 50% ax5 will definately work.. But the drained oil should be disposed/used within a month/or put in some other bike.. It shouldnt be mixed with remaining quantiry of ax5.. You will end up oxidising both the oils.