There is another issue. Whenever I ride at Wide open throttle for sometime & let go of throttle, there is an instant when there is sudden deceleration (like someone applied brakes or the fueling was cut off) & then normal deceleration continues. What can be the problem? Something to do with carburettor?? I feel this is the culprit for reduced top end and also mileage


happens on my stock bike too


Anyways good to see you taming RTR

Thanks a lot for the tip bro! I thought no one noticed this thread
I didnt observe this in stock or even after the mods for sometime.. but the effect is very pronounced in my recent rides..

A very important update after 7 months and 7800kms on the big bore + head work + ffe.


I finally found the source of all the problems I faced ever since I got the kit and yeah it had nothing to do with the kit . I would have put this up earlier but wanted to confirm it for sure. The culprit was carburetor diaphragm!!! This piece of rubber can do wonders! (I am still running on stock carb and filter btw).


This is how it started. The diaphragm must have slowly degraded with time. My mileage kept dropping and so was the top end. Joel's first suggestion was to replace the diaphragm and I foolishly got a new one from a random spare parts shop since authorized dealer was closed. I got it for 80 bucks & later realized the genuine one costs 500+! I was happy that I didnt buy the genuine as I thought the TVS simply overcharged it for branding & stuff. But the new one didnt help much at all. This was several months back.


This Jan after getting FE of 32 on highways and around 35 in city and never more than that no matter how I ride, I got fed up & I realized there should be a reason why the genuine diaphragm costs so much more. So I bought a new genuine one for 594INR!
Got home, put the new one in & took it for a ride. You have no idea how much difference that small piece of rubber can do! When you whack the throttle, it instantly surges ahead, earlier it used to be lazy. Yet to exactly measure the top end but the magic is in FE figures!

I am getting a consistent FE of 40+kmpl in both city and highways. In city if you ride hard (gear shifts post 7k rpm), it will drop down to 37 but not lesser. I have checked FE multiple times to ensure that it is consistent and yes it is! In 80-120kmph riding on highways, I got 40.9kmpl yesterday and 60-90kmph riding on single lane village roads and a bit offroading I got 40.5kmpl. This is with the richest needle setting and also richer than stock fuel screw setting. I think one can score half century if you run with stock carb settings but it definitely would run the engine lean and less fun to ride and needless to say, very bad for engine too.

Why genuine costs so much? Because it is made of specially treated rubber and is very sensitive to vacuum pressure changes.


Also did a DIY to set valve clearances right two days back since the tappets were making some noise. Now the ride is smoother.


I sincerely hope that this will help someone who is facing similar problem. I have had a lot of trouble in pin pointing the culprit causing less FE and less top end. I had checked everything from wheel alignment, chain, brake pads to every damn bolt on my bike. Also learnt a big lesson "Always buy genuine spares"!

I am a genuine spares guy and never ever compromise on that even if i have to shell out 3 times the cost of locally available cheap spares. The result has been pretty evident after the speed run test conducted on my bone stock bike (details in the FZ 18 thread). There has been no loss of horse power even after 2.5 years and 25,000kms+ of ownership. I am keeping my fingers crossed that when the stock engine is finally opened up for installing the new RC heart, the internal parts will be in pristine condition.

Would recommend anyone never to compromise on spares and parts as a manufacturer specifically makes them for their respective products and to a certain standards of tolerence and quality checks which a local, cheaper version supplier won't even bother.. That is the reason it is so CHEAP at the first place!!

Good luck riding her hard now. Ensure that you keep a track of the glasswool every 3-5000 kms since you love hard ripping. I suggest get in touch with Joel once and see if the glasswool can be replaced with heat resistant fibreglass packing. That will ensure that you don't have to go through this small annoyance for atleast 25,000 kms.


Cheers,

Yeah man. I guess I realized it a bit late. I remember the day I went to buy it. It was 6:15pm and the authorized outlet was already closed! Hence went to a nearby spare shop! (Later came to know all TVS spare outlets close at 6pm!)

All the best for the surgery man! I am sure it will all be well as I see you take utmost care to ensure all the nitty gritty stuffs are taken care of!


Hehe I dont rip so much Just wanted to see the worst case mileage in city and more over FE figures keep changing with respect to petrol bunks. I always get maximum FE for normal Shell petrol (not premium) and if I go for any other it drops by 1-2kmpl. Even the above stated figures are for random bunks found on highway. It mightve been more had it been Shell.

Will be visiting Joel's workshop in a week or two, will discuss what can be done about glasswool.

Might also go for further upgrades too so stay tuned

Congrats Adarsh!

Nice to know that you used genuine spares. They're 99.9% of the time BETTER than other non OE spares.
There's a difference between a balloon and a cond*m after-all!

Thanks man...

Aur analogy karna koi aapse seekhe!

Now it is a Stage 2 RTR190

Here is a teaser pic.. You all know, what matters is how it reaches 138kmph.. will try to get a video next time.. Btw this was with stock sprockets.. Anyways, will post more details once i ride more

Stage 2 as in.?

Well the RC upgrades for RTR180 can be split into stages..

Stage 1 : Big bore + Headwork + FFE
Stage 2 : Bigger carb (33mm Semi flat Mikuni) + Simota air filter
Stage 3 : High lift cam + Race CDI + Even bigger bore with bigger valves

Currently i have reached Stage 2 and most probably that's it!
Btw I also got the steel braided brake lines which has further improved the already impressive RTR braking.

Will post detailed reviews of the new carb + filter soon... But first impression??? even the vibes at 9k have disappeared!

Hey buddy, I have been waiting for an acceleration video of 0-130 or so ever since you started this thread. It's been about 8 months. Now that you have got stage 2 too, hit the NICE ring road and open the throttle already

Hehe.. I have opened throttle at NICE many times but have no way of recording it properly.. time to buy a gopro i guess!

Will surely try to get a video the next time I go all out on NICE road..

Can't we directly go in for the biggest bore and the biggest valves right in the beginning.?

I think you can, but to suffice the fuel needs, you will have to go for the bigger carb and filter and to get the maximum out of it, a free flow exhaust is a must. So you will end up getting everything (maybe cam and CDI upgrade need not be compulsory). The entire package becomes expensive considering its the first upgrade Also I am not sure how many people have gone for the biggest bore (in xbhp) other than Joel's Ghost Apache

How about going for FFE first, then filter, then carb,then head work for the biggest valves, and then directly from stock bore to biggest bore.?
How much did your steel braided brake lines cost you.? And particular company to look out for.?