YES YES YES VERY SEXY!!!!!
Nice work!!

Indeed an insane looking ride mate!!

Luke as a matter of fact Joel indeed provides Stiffer racing Clutch Springs... I have mentioned it on the 1st page of Powerhouse FZ18 thread. I have opted for that in my build.

My first lot of Shipment (Big Bore kit, Camshaft, clutch springs & FF air filter) has left from Blore today. Rest of the lot will be shipped along with the Head work once i reach Mumbai and ship my ride's stock head to RC. So now the impatience to reach Mumbai and start my build asap is increasing rapidly!!

Cheers,

el sistema de escape de esta moto es fabricado por "Willdan Exhaust", es una replica de un escape de kawasaki z1000, el tiene doble flujo de gases, y es completamente en acero inoxidable
the exhaust system of this bike is manufactured by "Willdan Exhaust", is a replica of a kawasaki z1000 exhaust, the gas flow is double, and is completely in stainless steel

mik please help me out.i am working on some cosmetic modifications which will require tweaking the subframe.do you advise this?will it affect the stability,ride and make the bike unsafe

will any modification to the subframe of fz affect its stability,ride.please help

What do you plan to do and to where?

I'm sure others can help you out too!!

Thankyou that you replied.I will be posting some pics to explain about the mods to be done by tomorrow.

Remove and deglaze front brake pads.

With the daily rain we are having here in Saigon my bike hasn't been getting ridden much, After the projector re-install I started just doing a bit of "tinkering"

I also decided to pull my front brake pads out and check them, de-glaze them and re-installed them.
I figured why not take pics step by step and see how simple it actually is.
This guide will also work for installing new brake pads..

Time to do this is about 5minutes.
Difficulty - Simple.

Tips
Wait for your brakes to be cool.
When you have removed your pads, DO NOT TOUCH THE FRICTION SURFACE WITH YOUR FINGERS, OIL, GREASE ETC. We all have oil in our fingertips and this transfers to the friction material. The same applies for all friction materials. Clutch plates, Drum brake shoes etc.
There is no need to open brake reservoir or squeeze the lever until the final step.


Tools needed.
Long nose pliers.
Sandpaper / sharpening stone / flat file. these are to remove the glaze off the pad. If you are desperate, The rough cement floor/road/curb as long as its oil free, Pretty much any grease/oil free flat surface.
Clean grease free rag.


Prop your bike up on the center stand or side stand with the handlebars turned to the left.
Remove the 2X R Clips using long nose pliers.
Push the pin away from you. you can use the pliers like in the photo.
Remove the first pad. It should drop easily.
Set it aside. Pull the pin out. It should be able to come out with your fingers. Remove the back pad.
Check the pads against the light and look for shiny surfaces. See the grey bits on the pad compared to the brown. The grey is slightly glazed. (These pads are fine but I went ahead and cut the glaze off.)
Check the center groove is still present. If the pad is completely flat then its time to replace these pads.
Take your pad and using the flat surface rub the pad evenly along its entire length. I've got sandpaper, flat file and a old knife sharpening stone for examples.
Once you have removed the old glaze, set the pad aside. Do not inhale the dust. It may contain asbestos. You can do this under water or a running tap also if you want to maximum dust suppression.
Repeat with the other pad.


Time to check the sideways movement of the caliper.
Push and pull the caliper sideways. Check that it slides easily and is not seized.
You will be pushing against the pistons as you push the caliper away from you.
See the pic and check that the pin slides easily and the rubber boot is not damaged and dirty.

*** If you are installing new brake pads take this time to push the 2 pistons back into the caliper. If you have topped up the brake fluid in the past then be careful not to overflow the reservoir. If it is going to overflow then take a syringe and suck out some fluid to compensate for the pistons retracting *****


Installing the pads. New or existing. These only go in 1 way so you can't mix these up.
Take the back pad, slide it up between the rotor and the caliper and seat it with the end going into the slot. The hole in lower end of the pad should line up with the pin.
Push the pin through from the back, locking the pad in place.
Take the front pad (it will have 2 piston marks pushed into the hard backing) and do the same. Once its slotted in push the pin through completely.
Rotate the pin so the holes are aligned for easy access to put in the 2 R Clips.


Pump the brake lever several times until you feel the brakes get their feeling back.

If you have installed new pads then you may want to bleed the caliper.
1) Pump the brake lever and hold it.
2) Loosen the bleed nipple until some fluid comes out and tighten back up.
3) Now release the brake lever.
redo steps 1-3 until only clean fluid comes out.
You may need to top up the fluid as you are bleeding.

Don't get the fluid onto the paint as it will strip it.

Mik, Im not kidding, you should really write a book :P

A good DIY indeed MIK... please keep on pouring more gyan/knowledge in this thread

Clutch is oil bath one Gotcha!!!

Yes indeed this bike is, but other bikes and cars are dry. Just makes for a good habit instead of getting all the mechanics greasy fingers all over the new friction material.

Any new updates Luc? any more developments?

a crazy idea popped in my mind,
since this thread is dedicated to mods on fz then can someone please tell me that can't we replace the carb with a fuel injection system?i know it would require a number of of sensors,an ecu and then also the mod will not be perfected. but wait,in case of Honda stunner or cbf125 the chaps at honda just replaced the carb with fi system.they didn't change any other component of the engine.so cant we use the stunner fi system on fz?since both the bikes have similar performance it would be easy for the stunner fi system to be fitted to fz rather than the r15 fi system on the fz. i think the only problem would be with the ecu as it is designed according to revving character,air intake pressure of the Honda engine.so to conclude if i get the throttle body or injector(whatever it is called) can't i get the ecu remapped for engine characteristics of fz?