How much does that 200cc mod cost in Total ???

You want our prices or something comparable to your country?

I paid over $300 for cyl and under 400 for head, + import duty 33% and 10% VAT ontop.
Supposedly "Plug n Play" everything included...

To make a 200cc you just need to source an appropriate 66mm piston (Mine is RRGS forged piston)
bore out and resleeve your block to suit the 66mm piston + the piston to wall clearance. This information is from the piston manufacturer. Don't machine the bore before you get a piston. Find your piston first then machine your bore to suit.

After that get your gaskets enlarged to the new 66mm diameter

Building it is another matter.

Oh, little: just the price of another FZ (India price)!!!!!!

Mates, Started a thread in the Help Me forum about changing FZ16 handlebar to that of R15's.

Here is the thread, http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/help-me/...ebar-fz16.html

A fellow user, in that thread, educated me about the clip-on handlebars. Anymore input will be good to know for me before I change the handlebar. Please visit the thread.

The point of the change in handle bar is to make a better and sporty driving posture.

i am Ramiro de Argentina (South America), I speak Spanish so use google translate to read and write. because I read it before, I also bought the 200cc kit and cdi brt to Haryono, luckily it was just that. from what I saw in the photos you sent me the piston is different. then upload some pictures, and I will try to work in my country the cylinder head. with diameter valves as Joel says.
My FZ has now Mufler daytona, k & n filter, yesterday I install the cdi and notice a remarkable change in acceleration. I will follow this post. regards

Joel, do you know how much a stock FZ head (cams, valves, port) can flow?
You mention it is ok for 180cc then after that a bit of work may be needed.

I'm asking this as in the future I may (or may not if I get another bike) need to rebuild and go with a different cyl head design but keep the 200cc bottom end.

here are the photos of the piston, I was seeing that I have to give a plane to the cylinder because it has details and a pore

@Ramiro: Probably Mik and Luke can help you in this regard as most of us in India are on Race Concepts 180cc kit completely different than yours.

Cheers,

Welcome ramiro47.
Nice pictures by the way.
That piston is a different piston to the one Hary sent me (and Luc I believe)
Our's were his older type TDR brand or something. This piston may have been his "super forged" type Hary was advertising.

Just make sure you measure the bore and the piston to check for correct clearances, Also your ring endgaps too (Push them in the bore with your old piston before installing onto your new piston)

Between the 3 of us on this forum (yourself, Luc and myself) we have all got Hary "engines" but all with different parts to make them work!
hahahaha. So much for Hary's much touted Plug n Play!!!

I also had to deck or plane the cyl head, bore as it was not flat. Seems like its a normal thing with Hary's products, The customer having to finish off the work!!

Im loving this thread.
And finally going for Joels mods. Hopefully have it built up in a month.
I have a question, how do the following parts affect performance?
a. Valve spring
b. Clutch spring
c. cdi unit

Buenas dias Ramiro,

Excuse me if I continue in English, since probably none here habla Espanol.

First: welcome to this forum, your presence proving again, if the need may be, how International it is getting.
From our experience with Automotivespartsshop: the parts he imports from here and there are not bad. It is the works done by him or under his direction which is terrible, as well as both his lies on how things are "plug and play" (sometimes not fitting at all!), his delays and all sorts of fancy excuses, and the way he dares changing his customers orders, without permission, and flogging all sorts of useless parts in replacement of those he was ordered. This man definitely deserved the "advertizing" we give him here!

You are very lucky to have got this piston from well known Kawahara-Racing Malaysian manufacturer. Not that the TDR one is bad, but Haryono had a second pocket machining done to fit the offset valves of the FZ 16 engine while sockets were already cut for standard valves, resulting in a miserable shape and flow disturbance at the top of the piston. This Kawahara comes without any sockets - or "recesses" - for the valves, and a proper job (apparently!) was done in machining the top of this piston.

Where the bad work comes is, for you like others, the moment Hary starts touching anything himself. That you had to plane the cylinder top is no surprise when knowing who has touched it!

Now READ CAREFULLY: DO NOT install this piston and cylinder until you had experienced people from a renown engine rectification workshop measuring the bore of your "Haryono" cylinder. Mine was too large, and slightly conical...which cone shape I interpreted as a known racing feature to compensate for the higher dilatation of the top of the cylinder, while it was simply a wrongly done machining! The result was soon a wobbling piston inside the cylinder!!! They must not refer to the size of the piston rings as these are often oversize, the ends needing to be adjusted by the workshop doing the bore. If it is found that the bore is too large, as it was in my case, you will have no choice than to give your stock cylinder to be re-bored, correctly that time.

A second reason why you must NOT install this cylinder and piston right away is that you still have the stock cylinder head, whose combustion chamber is sized for a 153cc. capacity, not 200c.. or this will result in a super high and very damageable compression ratio close to that of a Formula one! I now have to replace not only the piston as I just explained, but also the conrod bearing (whole conrod, pin, and bearing kit imported directly from TKRJ Japan), but alo the crankshatf roller bearing which have started to be slightly noisy, and I suspect this follows the "experiment" by my mechanic (actually: a misunderstanding) to install the big bore kit before modifying the cylinder head combustion chamber, installation with which he went for road test with a terribly knocking engine!!!

You effectively MUST increase the volume of the combustion chamber in order to obtain a static compression ration of maximum 10.5: 1, meaning a 21cc. combustion chamber if your piston has, like mine, a 2cc. dome. This gives 200 + (21 - 2) = 219cc, divided by 21= 10.5.

Also, valves will have to be enlarged to give enough fuel-air mix entering the intake and leaving through the exhaust, as you effectively intend. Mik has got much bigger valves than I, apparently working well, while mine are only 2m. bigger on the diameter....and working just as well (till next run together: I may be even faster!). The big advantage is that I did not have to modify the valve guides position or the angle of the valve stems, but just re-bore slightly the stock valve seats, and rework the ports, of course. I have posted a drawing showing all this in earlier. My valves are Kawahara-Racing, like your piston, and we saw how good a steel they are made with when re-machining them (they were originally the big ones like Mik, whose size I reduced).

I shall later post other information about the rest of the mod, after the current works are done, including and after receiving (when ?????) a camshaft from Race Concept/ Joel Joseph....who is definitely as nice and capable as he is sloooooow!

a. valve springs will not, by themselves, affect of increase the performance. The stock valve springs can take 11,500 rpm. with the stock camshaft (Joel info). I am afraid that the whole engine cannot really take more revs than that! "Race" springs, together with light titanium retainers, would allow higher rpm, but what would be the point, then??? One thing, however, is the camshaft profile. A "race" cam profile will give not only give more lift, meaning further compression of the springs, this meaning metal fatigue, but will also have a steeper profile, valves opening earlier and more rapidly, and closing later and faster too..which the whole distribution train, valve springs included, may not like at all, valves springs becoming unable to close the valves that quickly! Will give more power at high revs...if the distribution can take those revs and this cam profile!

b. If clutch springs are not strong enough, unable to cope with the torque, the clutch will start slipping, burn, and the anti-friction plates be good for garbage bin. Joel can provide (if he feels he has the time (.....!) race springs which I think are necessary. I had (Mr. Haryono again!) been delivered also called "tungsten race springs for FZ 16"....that were actually weaker than the stock ones! Bravo again! To cope with the torque of the 200cc., I have added 2mm. thick washers under the stock springs, which is not a good practice since it will affect them and cause fatigue. Much better go for stronger ones! I am waiting (....) for race springs from Race Concepts.

c. CDI: will do basically three things, depending on the maker. First is that it may be a dual band, meaning it will produce two sparks one right after the first one, giving (theoretically) better combustion by creating a second flame front. Second is that the mapping may be more performance and less cruise oriented, with a different timing function of your revs, and more ignition advance at higher revs, resulting in more time for combustion, but also higher strains because of higher pressure on piston. Third is that it usually cancels the rev. limiter the original manufacturer has programmed (cutting at 9,500 - Joel info), allowing you to go to higher revs. If your cylinder is filling and exhausting well with these high revs, power will increase. The risk is going too high then, and simply blowing your engine, or as explained before, having your valves unable to close at these high revolutions, resulting in rapidly burnt valves and seats. Not nice!

^^^ Nice!!! Good looking eye candy .... question: how does it run with that exhaust? Also any other changes?