I very much doubt they will!

I have replaced, as you know, the conrod by a TKRJ directly imported from Japan (absolutely perfect service) only to discover that....the stock one is exactly the same, and from that manufacturer! By the way, there is no "cryo'd" bearing or anything like that in it: it is just a nicely forged and machined piece of steel. The "old" conrod and its bearings were perfectly good, though, but I still replaced by the new one. What I found I HAD to replace, though, were the crankshaft bearings!!! One was perfectly good, but the opposite one starting to make some "rrrrrr" sound when listening carefully to it. Why did this happen while the lower engine had never been opened can only be due to he extra power, specially while I had the super high compression ratio, something always damageable to engines!

Nevertheless: that shows clearly a limit to what the lower engine can stand! I think we are already pushing the limit with our 200cc. bored up engines, inevitably heavier pistons, and adding to it our limitless CDI, allowing the engine to rev up well past what even the valve springs can handle!

Personally, I am very happy with how my bike performs right now, smooth and torquey, but I would like to see with you about trying the 28mm carb., with a larger conical filter instead of my 29mm. CV one and flat K&N filter, after having installed the camshaft I hope to receive - one day? - from our dear Mr. Joel Joseph (!!!). Will be really interesting to compare our bikes then, you with the big valves and carb, me with smaller head setup!

[QUOTE=invelarde;883837]

I have already Tried 15 /44 combination , it has developed lots of torque but with slightly reduced Top speed . ( Good for Stunt )
While 15/42 combi is roughly the same response as stock ( 14/40 )
So i just opted to used 15/40 , you get better cruising speed and easier to accelerate due to a compensated Engine ..this also helps
improve FE since your Engine is very relaxed on Cruising speed at 90 ~100 ( 6000rpm at 5th gear )


is 15/44 combination possible with the stock engine??can its 14nm torque handle these teeth?wont they put any extra stress on engine?i don't want top speed but just the low end torque.(and no big bores please).

I'm may be interested in going bigger on the FZS.
My engine seems to be going fine, Plenty of high revs, engine braking down the gears and lots of throttle. It will be interesting to see what will break with a bigger capacity. As far as I know, no one has actually done this and tested to destruction.
We can only speculate what will let go. Sure you can calculate speeds etc but until something is tested to destruction then the answer is still not 100%. If it breaks then it breaks, get another part and if possible a stronger one and rebuild it.
Josh has done numerous similar engine builds starting from a smaller displacement, adding different sized conrod, forged piston, cylinder, head etc.
He took a honda Dylan from 150cc upto 270cc with the stock crank modified, different rod, piston, spacer block, cylinder and PnP head.

If I can get a high quality steel crank "off the shelf" then I'd have already have bought it, But as we know these parts are not in freely available. Should I go this way I will ask about aftermarket cranks and see if there are any that are interchangeable, then worry about rod length, stroke after as these can be changed locally.
Same with high quality engine fasteners. I used to use ARP fasteners in my car engines. 1 set of main studs (14), 6pr of rod bolts, 1 set of head bolts (14) cost me $700 (weak AUD$ Vs US$ at the time)
Should I go this route I'd be happy to get 10k kms from the engine before rebuilding it. Similar to what I expect from my current engine.
The only restraint I have is I work away for a month at a time, so I don't get to ride as often, and then when I do ride, its usually to the bike shop and back. Will have to go for another trip to Vung Tau for a night or two to clock up some kms. Not too worried if I have to rebuild it after 10K km's, If I can get a 270 or 300cc engine under there, It would be nice to be able to open the throttle up in 2nd gear and have the front end lift up (a little, not too much)

The weekend before last, I went to the "bike" show in Khumo Towers, outside the Hard Rock Cafe. Met the Ducati dealer. The Thai built monster is selling for US$15k. Tax agreement between VN and TLD.
I may go for that in the near future or a 2009/2010 R6 or R1 for around the same price (R6 being cheaper of course and begin my bolt on mods on the new bike)
The money spent so far I could have a "illegal" R6 or be 3/4 the way to a legal R6

If you want to run the TM28 then you will also need the jets. Mr Khoa, I believe has the jets for Mikuni and most likely Hien moto. Josh has Keihin and a very small amount of Mikuni jets, not suitable for the TM28.
The OD of the carb is also quite small IIRC (compared to my current carb) so having to source a suitable conical filter will need to be looked into as well. the stock intake runner may connect to it but it may be too short as the TM28 is very short compared to the other carbs, approx half the size.
As the carb is unused I'd like to sell it if you are interested in it.

I know this is completely OT, however I have an interesting experience to share. The reason for posting it here is so that I can get attention of experts like Luke, Mike, Abhimanyu and others.
I ride a Joeled 220 (230 cc now). I completed the mods in stages with a gap of 1 year in between. Before the Mods, I used Bajaj DTSI oil, and was not quite happy with it. Engine used to make lot of noise after hard riding or a long ride. I then performed some basic Mods on my bike (head work and all), and switched to Motul 5100. Though performance was not mind blowing (performance of the oil), it was slightly better than Bajaj oil. However, I noticed one thing though, when the Engine was cold it performed very well, however as the temperature rose, I could feel loss in performance. I used Motul for almost a year.
Finally Last month I got the Big Bore, Bigger Carb, Simota Filter and to run in the bike I used Bajaj Dtsi oil. This is the most astonishing part. Bike was responding very well with Bajaj Oil. Something I missed previously and something that even Motul could not provide. I thought may be it is initial stages of running in as I was not too hard on throttle. After 500 KMs I changed the oil again and went for Bajaj Oil. This time I started opening the throttle, with red lining in almost every gear, and I was surprised with the way Bajaj Oil was holding up.
Yesterday I changed the Oil again and went for Motul 5100 as I had 2 cans lying at my place. With Motul again same issue, everything is good when engine cold, but as the temperature rises I can feel the difference.
This completely baffles me. At one side I have Bajaj Oil, not so expensive giving the kind of experience I wanted, and on the other end theres mighty Motul which hasn't given me the Wow experience I expected out of it.
Could this be because of the Big Bore? May be it has developed a liking for cheaper Bajaj Oil now Because a couple of experts did check the bike and were of the opinion that the new piston and block is the best a P220 can have. Its perfectly mated to the head. Also, Bajaj oil is 20w50 while Motul is 15w50. May be the extra viscosity is coming into play here. Just a wild guess. Or may be Bajaj has actually improved the quality of the oil.

I'd have a guess and say its the vis. You shouldn't run a "lighter/thinner" oil than the manufacturers recommendation. If you have totally rebuilt and changed clearances then use lighter oil. Bigger clearances means a thicker oil, tighter clearances mean thinner oil.

I agree with you Mik. I changed the oil again back to Bajaj Oil on my way back to office. The same good feeling was back. In fact with Motul engine noise had increased, however on switching to Bajaj Oil, engine noise reduced substantially.

Next week I will be doing a 1000 KM trip. Lets see how the oil fares on this trip. Even if the drainage interval is 2500 KM with Bajaj Oil I am happy with it.

Try Motul 7100. 20w50

I tried that. It leaks. Anyways no more Motul for me now. I will stick to Bajaj Oil as my bike seems to like it. Lets see how it goes.

You said you were using Bajaj DTS-I oil. This may be costing little in your country, but is not a low grade oil, but a top performer synthetic oil!!!!

One must understand that engine oil chemistry is getting extremely complex, and including a lot of additives, whether it is basically a mineral or synthetic oil. One of these additives - and not my favorite! - is the "Viscosity Improver", V.I. , the one that makes your oil multigrade (20 x 50, 10 x 40, etc.... compared to the more "ordinary" single grade SAE 30 or 40, etc....) . It has been a great discovery, allowing to cold start an engine and go ahead immediately, and also to be used at high temperatures with an oil that would not otherwise look like glue when cold. The downside is that these V.I. additives are not well performing at high temperatures as they start to break down. That is where "super-multigrade" oils (5 x 50 being an extreme) are very seldom seem, and the "gap" is usually kept at SAE 20 points. On "industrial" engines (large generators, ship's engines...), the oil is a single grade, pre-heated if needed to allow cold start, and engine temperature monitored to suit the oil viscosity. 100% synthetic oils, like Mtul 300V, do not need V.I. additives while "semi synthetic" ones like 5100 do.

In the case you cite, your "Joelled" Bajaj Pulsar 220, and it's previous stock condition, the recommended oil grade seems to be 20 x 50. On top of that, you live in Bangalore, not specially cold place! 10 x 40 does not seem to fit your bike, then.

Now, I shall add that I feel less and less excited about Motul oil, specially the top grade and more costly 300V (not that I care much about the price of one liter of oil!). I have not tried the 5100 but the 3100 during running in, and found this last one to be very good, while the engine got more noisy afterwards with 300V. Also had leaks with this oil that did not occur with the more ordinary 3100. Seems that it is not gasket swelling (another important characteristic of oils), and anyway feels very fluid, not "oily" between fingers. May have a deeper look at Caltex...?

Modified FZ16, FZ-S, Fazers owners Tech Talk

Luke,

The Bajaj DTSi oil is made by one of India's top oil company i.e. Hindustan Petroleum (formerly Esso, before nationalization). It is a misconceived idea that many have that oil from such companies is inferior to oils from big names like Motul, Mobile, etc. The companies do not have big racing programs or huge marketing budgets. Their distribution is predominantly from the fuel stations that sell their fuel, thus allowing these companies to keep their cost low.

Buddy, I am now owing a P200NS, and before this i owned a P150. Till now I have used only DTSI only (NS done only 600kms so did the Mandatory Dtsi oil change at 1st service, and while i had P150, I was too noob to try out any other oil)
I am not telling that the oil is crap, but then Bajaj's claim of that oil running upto 10K kms is total crap... I looses all it's Quality within 2k kms only.
Also comparatively it is costlier than motul 3100!!!

Modified FZ16, FZ-S, Fazers owners Tech Talk

^^^ oil degradation is dependent on number of factors including but not limited to quality of fuel and air, engine operating temp, etc. Yes, Bajaj's claim of 10,000 kms does sound excessive. However, to err on the side of caution, it is the oil change period recommended in your service manual that should take precedence over any recommendation made by any oil blending company.

^^ agreed that oil change period recommended in your service manual.. But even the Dtsi bottle claims a 10k kms interval period.

BTW< I didn't knew that the Quality of fuel and air also affects oil degradation. AFAIK, the oil and the fuel doesn't come into contact of each other. So, Can u please explain how it affects the oil..

Oil does not work in isolation, nor do air and fuel. Oil is not just a lubricant. It is a detergent, anti-oxidant, anti-corrosion, coolant (remember oil cooling) medium. Poor fuel and air quality leads to poor burn off and carbon deposit build up. These in turn lead to increase in engine operating temperatures. The increase in engine operating temperatures lead to increased oxidation. Which in turn leaves heavy deposits on engine components which include but are not limited to valve guides, piston ring groves, valves, intake and exhaust tracks. These deposits land up in oil due to its properties as detergent, anti oxidant and anti corrosion medium.

Water content in the air is also another factor which affects oil. Moisture in the air when it enters the combustion chamber becomes steam and is highly corrosive. Oil acts anti corrosive agent to neutralise its harmful effects on the engine.

The subject is too vast to explain out here, but I hope you get the idea. The cleaner fuel and air your bike gets, the lesser the strain on your bike's engine oil.

Ya, Buddy.. Got the idea.. Though there is no Direct relationship, but the fuel and air Indirectly affects the oil Quality.
Nicely illustrated. it also explains why the oil turns Black after it's has been run for a while.