"Sub-standard": well: the picture I posted is effectively quite clear about that!

How did we deal with this?: paper weight!!!

The "tuned" cylinder head I had ordered and of which I received pictures of an awful work that was being carried on it: I simply refused it and (angrily) ordered Haryono to deliver me an untouched, new, stock one that I would work myself (I keep all the stocks parts, just in case...!). Had already paid for the tuned one, of course...!

I have this camshaft laying around now, as well as pretended tungsten "race" clutch springs that did not even have the stiffness of the stock ones making the clutch slip, an unusable CDI that cannot be connected to my wiring....
Mik never used and still has his piston, an identical camshaft, a just as unusable CDI, plus an aluminum swing-arm through which the chain was cutting and hitting the frame limiting the movement, not to mention a few exhausts (like me), a few carbs.... and a box full of stock parts!

The piston and its play inside the cylinder (due to the conicity, the rings were showing a closed gap when at the top, but an open one when lower down) was "gambled".....and in the end, as the continuation of the story will show: the gambling was lost: got another piston in now (one more running in!)!!!

I had ordered the same or similar conrod from Hary, only to be told that they are no longer available, and the cost was absorbed into postage of my parts. I did manage to get a refund on the piston, and the cryo treatment of both the piston and the non existant conrod....Only after submitting a claim to paypal, though it was past the time allowed for disputes.

Yes Luc and myself seem to be having a ever growing number of spares....New items, barely used items and incorrect items.
I still have a set of foot pegs that were going to be installed but unsure about how important the vertical pieces where the swingarm pivot bolt runs through and the factory footpegs are located on, So I just put them back in the box and left them at my mech's shop...

Josh (My mechanic) had tried to start my bike with the mystery cam as I like to call it but the bike was very difficult to start and of course unable to maintain a idle due to the (excessive?) lift/duration. Hary also wanted the data from the cam too..
Its a Hary and Automotivesparepartsshitshop bashing few posts but lets make it clear for those who are interested in going down the same very bumpy, potholed and expensive goat track of a "freeway" Hary promised to understand what you are actually getting yourselves into.

Been out over the weekend. Could not fill in here for a few days.
Lucky Luke - Your cam an stuffs are leaving today. Just finishing packing off the whole thing. Along with a few other orders.

As for the whole talk about combustion efficiency, valve sizing, quench and port size, I'll explain.
The FZ's valve sizing in the stock form itself is very efficient to cater to a 180cc engine. For a 200cc engine, 1.5 to 2mm oversize is ideal. Any larger wont hurt, but then its going to change the powerband drastically. The valve size is also directly related to the corresponding camshaft profile. The right profile decides the right flow rate and helps improve the burn efficiency. Most believe that a super large valved head with a wild cam = hell a lot of power. But it will only lead to excessive flow and dampen the combustion process. Feeding the engine the right, is the whole art of tuning. I have seen decently sized or closed to stock valve'd engine with the right cams, beating the pants off wild cam'd engines with larger valves. With good power off idle and with solid midrange and top-end too. Its very hard to get the tune under control with large sized valves and wild cams. As Mad Mik mentioned above, he was not able to even crank the engine right with a wild cam that was supplied to him - a result of over rated flow.
Valve sizing adds two factors to a 4-stroke engine. Area and time (duration). And thats exactly what a high performance cam also does. Increases area and duration. Area is the volume of charge entering the chamber for the resulting opening rate and duration is the period, the valve is open. On the FZ, for good street performance and outright reliability, I recommend the stock valve size - with angled venturi valve seats, a good flowing cylinder head port tune (hogging a port will screw up everything) and the right cam to do really well and make good power till about 9.5k rpm.
More to come later. Need to rush...

My ODO is 2336km, Just over 900kms on my new engine.
Dropped the Malossi 10w40 100% synth oil and was looking at my old oil in the pan.
The original Malossi oil is dark to begin with, however this was darker again, though not black,
There was a lot of metal sparkles in the oil. The oil has been in the bike now for around 500km. The 3rd oil change so far and still lots of metallic flakes present.

I refilled with Motul 10w 40 double ester synth oil. Nice green dye added to the oil, When we put a couple test drops into the old oil we noticed how it (Motul) didn't blend with the old oil. We spun the pan around and around, using centrifugal force to push the oil outwards, Got a nice green spiral, then when the pan stopped the green colored oil formed back up into a blob. We poked, prodded, wiggled and mixed the green blob but couldn't get it to blend with the old oil. Quite interesting the properties of the new Vs old oil.

Those who don't want to change the oil often in their new engines will enjoy the metallic sparkles in their oil less often
It would appear that the oil filter can't filter out these particles. Those who say you don't need to change your oil in your new engine often, Leave it for 1000kms etc are entitled to do so, However I go on the record that I will change mine more often until the engine has finished its running in. I'm also looking for a small magnet to put onto my sump plug to help trap these metallic particles.

What about the servicing of the modded engines and other parts ????? Finding them once again in case of damaging, will be a hardcore work.

Ermm.. don't know about Mr. Haryono's after sale service.. But RC engine kits, no other major care is needed. You service your bike just like you would do with your stock bike. You check the valve clearences of now the modded head as per the specification given to you by the tuner and after a specified period of running just like you would on your stock bike... You can even do the servicing at SVC itself (paid ofcourse!!). If the build is done right and the maintenance is taken care of in proper intervals, they are literally bullet proof and will outlast the life of the stock parts.

Incase for any reason at all if the the parts do fail under 3-5k because of manufacturing defect which is very highly unlikely, then RC immediately sends you the replacement kit for free, provided you ship the damaged part for them to analyse.

Same as Frito Lays asks you to contact them immediately with the batch no. of the particular chips if you found them to be stale right after purchasing it from the store. They will give you a new packet and immediately action on all the products sold in that batch to identify if there were any problems with the other parts, Hope you get it.

You want to buy any new parts or replacement parts say after 40,000 kms, then contact RC.. simple as that.

Cheers,

Replies in color.

Time for new parts for MAD MIK ripping her beast for day 1.
Apart from jokes, just asking the mad mik or Lucky luke about there parts who had sweated their way to get here in modifying engines and even failure of one part may shut there byk and in vitenam where stock parts is very rarely available this modification is reliable enough to withstand the ripping like the stock one

Sorry in advance for my bad language for F@$K Hary and his piece of $h17 parts shop. I think I made that part very clear!
The guy is a snake oil salesman. He blames everyone for the problems with his parts except himself, Even after he did the work on my custom big valve head himself and sent it out incomplete he still was telling me I just needed to bolt it on and ride the bike. Anyway anyone who deals with his "custom parts" will need to get their replacement parts from elsewhere.
Out of the USD$2000 I spent on his junk, only the cylinder was ok, Even then I needed to deck it as it wasn't even flat!
Piston was junked, Crank bearings replaced with cheaper bearings without my permission, the conrod was not supplied, His excuse was they don't make them anymore (yet Luc is getting the exact same rod from Japan) and the cost of the rod + cryo cost put towards postage, The bodykit didn't fit and was not the one I had ordered, He sent me some mismatched one, poorly prepped and painted, The list goes on and on and on. On top of this everytime he sent me more of the missing parts I had to pay the customs duty 33% + 10% VAT, so that quickly adds up.

The guy I bought my 2nd rear disc set from when I was in Manila Philippines on holidays (facebook J2Cab Modifiers) told me he had bought some of Hary's kits and had nothing but problems, Even the big brake kit was sent....with no adapter for the caliper. Supposedly plug and play... Problems with his "custom" cyl head, bores, pistons etc etc.
A couple of local viet guys here also bought their cyl, pistons from hary, same problems, they have gone back to stock and wished they never had to deal with the lying thieving a$$#073.

As I am familiar with modifying cars in the past I know there is a very limited warranty when things go pear shaped, Therefore I try and get the best quality parts and the best people to install it and tune. Yes it gets expensive but hey, you want to be different right? Show your individualism.
That's why we customize our rides from paint, bodykits, lighting, sound systems, engines etc.
If your not prepared for things to go bad then leave it stock, otherwise you can't complain when things break down.

Those who don't want to change the oil often in their new engines will enjoy the metallic sparkles in their oil less often
A sedately run engine will have no/little harm from these metal particles(some claim that these are actually beneficial in creating micro oil pockets).. but imagine what these metal particles will do to an engine which remains on the wrong side of 5000 rpms from day 1.
There is a reason why rotating parts get machined and polished, some even go to the extent of micro-polishing, Why would you undo all that expensive work by scratching it? We all know a polished surface is a highly scratched surface but these will not be beneficial at all, Only promoting quicker wear and tear. What is harder? metallic particles or soft plastic oil seal?
Hense you got to dump your oil often along with your filter. If your filter was able to filter out these pieces then your oil won't have these pieces suspended in them, Also your oil is supposed to be coating these pieces so they don't actually score/gall/scratch machined surfaces too badly, however if your oil is no longer functioning properly then you will be scoring up polished surfaces, opening up clearances slowly but surely.

It would appear that the oil filter can't filter out these particles. Those who say you don't need to change your oil in your new engine often, Leave it for 1000kms etc are entitled to do so.. Yamaha manual says so.. Thats based on their own experimentation. You follow their rpm constraints and engine oil change frequency. you will just be fine. Anything else for better is your own call.

Yup, Sorry but Yamaha can go jump in the lake, My engine, my rules. If I want to change it more often then I shall, Just remember the manual is there as a guide, It is not set in stone, Say you are 600km shy of a oil change/service. You notice your oil is no longer working and is very dirty, burnt. Would you take it to get changed or leave it for another 600kms, simply because the manual said so?
Remember Yamaha don't expect you to be riding your bike hard everyday, Sure they would factor in some of this but mostly this will be for steady riding.

However I go on the record that I will change mine more often until the engine has finished its running in. You have prolonged the running in by using a synthetic oil for running in.. Though no harm.. but you will have to change the oil and oil filter often.

I doubt I'll be sealing my rings still after 500kms, They have already formed to the cyl wall, I haven't seen 1 puff of smoke come out when I ride so there is no oil getting up past the rings into the combustion chamber, no oil consumed. I'd say they are sealed, Still loosening up perhaps? but how can we measure that?


Kavit No problems with getting parts. I have spare cylinder and head, My mechanic told me he could have gotten these bored out locally with a far better job than Hary's effort of rubbing the deck against the cement floor of his house to make it flat, Pistons are no problems as my mech supplied me with a off the shelf RRGS 66mm forged piston (beautiful shiny piston, not the dull grey "forged" haryono piston) bearings no problems, Clutches, oil filters I have a couple suppliers I can get these from.
My bronze valve seats I will suspect will wear out quicker Vs steel so I can get my original head ported and polished, fitted with bigger valves if need be.
When my bike does go down I've got a choice of 3 other scooters to ride around on, or perhaps by then I'll have gotten a "big" bike and leave the FZ to collect dust

Well: as you guys will have seen in earlier pages of this thread (post # 63), not only tuners and other salesmen can do/ sell junk, but Yamaha factory too!

So, as I said earlier in this "saga", I had put back my engine to stock, just putting in new valve stem seals.

I then rode my quiet bike quietly for well over 2,000 km, not suffering the slightest problem. The engine was slowly getting better and better the more the moving parts were getting "accustomed to each other", and I was seriously considering leaving it like that, and let this big piston, bored up cylinder, etc.... to collect dust as much as they like.

Honestly: a stock FZ 16 (Fazer for me) is not a bad bike at all! It is smooth, revs up gently, never hurts you, gives a lot for the little care it needs....a good bike all in all! No complaint!

But....the devil....the devil.....the devil had got me! I just could not forget that burst of power that wild engine had showed me, although with an unsustainable compression ratio! So: I went to Mr. Haryono again, and confirmed the order for the big valve cylinder head, the "race" camshaft, and.....and.....and.....waited!

I waited five bloody months, being given lies, and excuses, but I finally got some pictures of "my" cyl. head that was being ported. I was horrified!!!!

The "gamma bronze cryo'd valve seats" I had been sold had been replaced by steel ones. Not that disturbing in itself, but the reasons why were: the "people" who did the work had purely and simply f**ked up the cylinder head, gone too far and right through the walls of the ports, filled up their damages with welding, distorted and messed everything, and tryed to hide their work behind some pretended "high fluid dynamics" port design!

The following are pictures Hary had the guts to send me in order to show the "nice work" that was being carried (call me a donkey!) and that he had taken and sent me. Technically, these pics are his and I have no right to show them here without his permission, but if he wants to complain, let him come here: we shall have fun!

You can see here even the defects of that welding: the "crack" line near the intake valve:




The ports and a mass of aluminum there to fill the hole they done in the ports and pretending it was for "better flow" (my a*s!)






No need to say I just totally refused this )%#^":$*&!$!% "work", and ordered Mr. Haryono to deliver me a brand new, untouched stock cylinder head, together with the big valves I had paid for, so that I will do the porting and combustion chamber myself! I had already paid for this "work" I had to refuse but forget it!


One must know that there is rather little metal around the ports of a FZ16 cylinder head, and that one has to be very careful when working on them. In next post, I shall show you the design I had done for this porting I then had to do myself, with the tools and machines of my favorite mechanic, who was himself eager to learn some of this dark art....well: what I could show him with my limited expertise!

Nice collection hope this collection stop here only and i hope I am going to modify my babe when she turns 1

Having, as I just said here-above, to do the porting, and going to (hopefully!) receive that untouched cyl. head soon, I had my engine opened again so that I could start studying that porting by first studying the stock head.

I was sad to be deprived of that nice bike again, moreover when seeing how nice it was now, compared with the awful charcoal and oil deposit on the intake valve due to the bad workmanship of Yamaha factory.

The top of the piston only had a very light carbon on it, of a brownish color:




...while the compression chamber, here blackened by oil as it has been left untouched with the other oily mechanical parts I am keeping only had a very thin deposit on it that the finger could rub away:




You can see here that the mech. had to fabricate a cylinder head gasket out of a sheet of copper, as even this spare part is not available here!
Both intake and exhaust valves and ports were nicely clean (sorry for the poor pictures: I just took them with flash as I only have a bit of free time on the evening). Interesting to compare them with those on post # 63!






I then started measuring very carefully this head and the shape of the ports, a job I continued when I finally received the new one. On this design, I draw what would be the position of the big (30 and 34mm) valves. I could see that the combustion chamber had to be recessed far into the head (4.5mm.), which would then give a to big chamber and not enough compression. To be able to fit such big valves and their seats, one then had to change the angle of the valves, pull off the valve guides, do some welding, re-insert the valve stem guides, and machine the head for the new seats.....!

I had also, in the meantime, studied a bit more about porting and (as Joel has confirmed on post # 78), found that these super big valves were simply not suitable for a 200cc., 8500 rpm engine, giving too low gases speed! All it needed was just two millimeters increase, and not six! Good! This way, I could even carefully machine the valve seats, taking off just one millimeter on the radius. This is what we did and also machined the (nice!) Kawahara valves I had received and reduce them from 34mm. to 30 for the intake and from 30 to 26 (25.4) for the exhaust. FYI: the stock intake valve is 28 and the exhaust 24 (23.4 to be exact). Both valves and seats were carefully machine with three angles (30, 45, 60 deg.) in order to facilitate even further the flow of the gases.

There is the drawing, showing the stock 24 and 28 valves, the 26 and 30 I was going to have.....and the impossible 30 and 34 ones unless one modified the angle, as explained here above. One can also see how little metal there is between the port and a cooing air passage in between and above them. Sorry for the various line thickness of the drawing (that was for my study: not for showing) and the lack of clarity! Valve guides are not drawn since that was not to be my concern, as well as both ports are drawn like in the same plane while they are considerably offset in reality.




You can also see that, would I have installed the "big" valves, the ports would anyway have had to be not that much enlarged, to 28 from 26 on the intake, with a 27mm. "throat" and from 21.5/ 22 (it is not round!) to 24 on the exhaust with a 22.6mm. throat. This reduction in diameter I call "throat" is necessary in order to increase the gases velocity and fill the cylinder with fresh gases or scavenge the burnt ones at high speed (300ft/ sec for the intake). Not possible for me to calculate for the exhaust as the volume of the gases will have increased by the combustion, so I draw with just 2mm. diameter increase for both.

Since I as going to fit much smaller valves, a very small increase of the ports diameter was going to be necessary (about 1mm. on the diameter): hardly more than cleaning the head casting from it's defects!

I understand, guys, that you would like, at that moment to be shown pictures of the work we did on this head, but sorry: I was busy and forgot to take any. You will see some, though, but after the bike had done another couple of thousand clicks, nice and happy (with much more researches, trials and errors on the exhaust pipe and muffler!) as the engine is now opened again!!!

The never ending story of bike tuning, it seems!!!

@Luke: you are indeed keeping your hands dirty on this.. niiice!!

@Mik: I can feel your love for Haryono

Lucky Luke; if you ever need any parts from India, just PM me and I will courier them to you. Standing offer, no big deal.