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**pavanchirmade** · 12-24-2009, 07:33 PM

Originally posted by zmint View Post

Abhi Brother,

Now for some off topic advise.
1. What is the name of the software you use to make those cool looking circuit diagrams.
A simple software called PCBWizard will do the job of drawing circuit diagrams.It also can make layouts for etching on PCBs
2. You have awesome soldering skills. Your soldering looks like embroidery to me. Can you suggest some good hardware to achieve such results. (I have only a simple soldering Iron)
Using a fine tip soldering iron will surely help.I use a soldron standard soldering iron. Its nice.Try it. It has a fine tip and heats up quickly. Use Soldering paste(Flux). The paste makes the soldering material cling to the applied surface thus making it easier.
3. And how do we remove those factory soldered components (like VRs) from PCBs without overheating them.
Use a de-soldering kit or gauze wire

My answers in bold

**zmint** · 12-24-2009, 07:33 PM

One last thing

Do you know any software wich can ease the procees of saving all the pages in a thred(Topic). At present, I have to stick to, opening all pages one by one and saving them (save as). although I preffer saving every thing to be pondered upon offline.

**abhijeet080808** · 12-24-2009, 07:52 PM

@Pavan - How useful is the gauze wire? Will local shops understand "gauze wire"?

@zmint - No idea here! I usually save it page by page!

**zmint** · 12-24-2009, 08:04 PM

Will local shops understand "gauze wire"?

Yes, I have seen rolls (reals) in the electronic shops here. I will get one of those.

**pavanchirmade** · 12-25-2009, 10:45 AM

its easy to use. It helps to lift all the solder material from the soldered surface. I think the shop where you will get a soldering iron you will get a desoldering gauze.

**sajjt** · 12-26-2009, 12:26 PM

Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post

@Pavan - How useful is the gauze wire? Will local shops understand "gauze wire"?

@zmint - No idea here! I usually save it page by page!

Its called de-soldering wick, type of wire without any insulation. any spare shop will have it, too common than a de-sold pump.

**zmint** · 12-26-2009, 05:58 PM

Guru, things are getting bit confused on my side :

Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post

I used 8mm LEDs. I liked the look better.

But dear, on page 1 of this Thread its written " I used 10mm Red LEDs."
Did you change them after wards and found out that 8mm were better ?

And if you want the LED look, clear lens cover are necessary.

I guess clear lens cover is one which may be Red though, but things are cleared visible through it because there is no designing in its dye. If yes I already have one of this type.

I notice 12 resistors in you actual circuit why so ?)

When I said this, I meant in relation to the circuit diagram you gave. (there are only six resist. in it). You explanation and the link was helpful but can you upload a updated circuit diagram (including resis. value), exactly showing what you soldered ?

@Pavanchirmade :Thanks buddy for all that advise. I have downloaded PCBWizard. Will buy a fine tip soldering iron & gauze wire.

**zmint** · 12-26-2009, 06:28 PM

Off Topic advise from Electronix Guru

Seeing your electronic knowledge One more request :
Saving and Optimal use of resources is like second nature to me. From long I needed a AC powered LED Lamp(Bulb) for saving power, irrespective of the fact that, I don't have to pay the electricity bills. Its free to me.
Now, I have these small LED Lamps for overnight glowing.

They consume very less power but a little problem. The Paper Capacitor (100 uF 35V) in the circuit Pops Up (Bust) after continues use.

I tried changing it to a higher Voltage (100uF 63V) but the LEDS won't glow.
Can you please suggest me the value of the Cap. so that the lamp keeps on working without busting, even after prolonged use.

**abhijeet080808** · 12-26-2009, 07:18 PM

Thanks for the info about desoldering gauze wire.

@zmint -

Those are 8mm LEDs!

Yeah, if there is no patterns, its clear lens.

I used 2 100ohm resistors in series to make it 200ohms as I did not have 200ohms resistors at that time. Hence double the number of resistors used.

As for the ckt, make C2 as 47uF (its enough for a few LEDs, 100uF cap will take some space, use it if you want), 200V (35V is too low, use 120V atleast) caps. Ensure correct polarity.

**zmint** · 12-26-2009, 07:47 PM

Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post

I used 2 100ohm resistors in series to make it 200ohms as I did not have 200ohms resistors at that time. Hence double the number of resistors used.

Thanks guru for clearing all my doubts.

Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post

As for the ckt, make C2 as 47uF (its enough for a few LEDs, 100uF cap will take some space, use it if you want), 200V (35V is too low, use 120V atleast) caps.

I think I have to polish my explanation skill a lot.

Let me put it again : I purchased these LED lamps from market. But they are not durable enough. When I opened one of them It had this circuit I posted above. The Value of C2 was 100 uF 35 V. When I changed it to 100 uF 63 V, (Pls. note that I only changed the volt rating 35 to 63 not the uF rating i.e. 100 uF) but the LEDS didn't glow. Now as per your advice should I try for 47 uF 120 V

.
What I understand from the circuit is that C1 (MEF-474J/250V (MEF) Metallized Polyester Film Cap.) and R1 along with the bridge, reduce the AC current to a LED acceptable level. Am I right. ?

**abhijeet080808** · 12-26-2009, 08:06 PM

Originally posted by zmint View Post

Thanks guru for clearing all my doubts.

My pleasure! No guru and all please!

Originally posted by zmint View Post

I think I have to polish my explanation skill a lot.

Let me put it again : I purchased these LED lamps from market. But they are not durable enough. When I opened one of them It had this circuit I posted above. The Value of C2 was 100 uF 35 V. When I changed it to 100 uF 63 V, (Pls. note that I only changed the volt rating 35 to 63 not the uF rating i.e. 100 uF) but the LEDS didn't glow. Now as per your advice should I try for 47 uF 120 V

.
What I understand from the circuit is that C1 (MEF-474J/250V (MEF) Metallized Polyester Film Cap.) and R1 along with the bridge, reduce the AC current to a LED acceptable level. Am I right. ?

Yeah, C1&R1 form a filter to reduce the current draw. If the LEDs do not glow, it means there is not enough current draw to charge the 63V cap. How about reducing the value of R1? If you have a VR, you can try this out while monitoring LED voltage/current.

**zmint** · 12-26-2009, 08:24 PM

Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post

It means there is not enough current draw to charge the 63V cap.

Ok. Now what I understand is that I should stick to 100uF 63V but try to change R1 with a VR and see.

If you have a VR, you can try this out

which VR value do you suggest. You see how poor I am to all this

while monitoring LED voltage/current.

You mean, see the brightness ? or check it with a multimeter ?

**abhijeet080808** · 12-26-2009, 08:43 PM

Originally posted by zmint View Post

Ok. Now what I understand is that I should stick to 100uF 63V but try to change R1 with a VR and see.

Yeah, and if it works, go for a 200V cap finally.

which VR value do you suggest. You see how poor I am to all this

I too am not a veteran! I think a 1Mohm potentiometer would be good.

You mean, see the brightness ? or check it with a multimeter ?

Not brightness man! With a multimeter!

Answers in bold.

**zmint** · 12-31-2009, 07:54 PM

Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post

See this. Set supply voltage at 14V, LED current at 20mA, LED voltage at 3V and calculate.

I gives 100 ohm

**fayad555** · 12-31-2009, 10:15 PM

@abhijeet
why 14V supply source and 3v led voltage?
it should be 12v and 2v resp. right?

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