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Retrofitted LEDs on tailight of my P150 Classic
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the three different bulbs of 2w are for different use one for high beam, one for right indicator & other for left indicator & 4w bulb is for brighten up the console, so use of power from any one bulb's wires & removing the bulbs from the other 2 holders and leave them as it is won`t work here, so the duty is performed by good old bulbs,& those 3 lights hardly remain ON all the time
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When a man has pity on all living creatures then only is he noble. ~Buddha~noble.org.in
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now new problem arises[these things happens to me why ?
}, now i have used 5 l.e.d with 170 ohm resistance & bridge ckt with a capacitor of 1000mf 16v , these l.e.d worked well, but today i over revved the scooter & found that these l.e.d aren`t glowing, i switch off the scooter & then switch it on & these L.E.Ds worked again on idle but when i revved the scooter L.E.Ds start blinking & then goes off, now when i switch on the scooter, on idle the L.E.Ds glows but the moment i rev the scooter L.E.Ds goes off, what could be the problem



, help guys
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When a man has pity on all living creatures then only is he noble. ~Buddha~noble.org.in
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Originally posted by rider_rock View Postnow new problem arises[these things happens to me why ?
}, now i have used 5 l.e.d with 170 ohm resistance & bridge ckt with a capacitor of 1000mf 16v , these l.e.d worked well, but today i over revved the scooter & found that these l.e.d aren`t glowing, i switch off the scooter & then switch it on & these L.E.Ds worked again on idle but when i revved the scooter L.E.Ds start blinking & then goes off, now when i switch on the scooter, on idle the L.E.Ds glows but the moment i rev the scooter L.E.Ds goes off, what could be the problem



, help guys
Your brake light is powered by AC. You will have to convert it to DC using a bridge rectifier before using the same power line to light up the LEDs. Else, if you have already used the rectifier, the connections are not proper (maybe the diodes are connected wrongly wrt polarity).
Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!
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i have used rectifier ckt , but this time the capacitor is of 16v 1000mf, connection is right, it worked for one week if there is wrongly connected diodes then it won`t work for one week, but now when i switch on the scooter, on idle the L.E.Ds glows but the moment i rev the scooter L.E.Ds goes off
i think there is problem in diodes
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When a man has pity on all living creatures then only is he noble. ~Buddha~noble.org.in
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Could you Please elaborate How did you work on the console, How to fizen those leds on the console? And how to remove the stock light on the console?Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View PostHi guys, recently I decided to replace the bulb in the tail light of my bike with LEDs. The procedure I followed is described below. Hopefully it will help someone else contemplating making the same mods.
Here is a pic of my bike

First, I have created a circuit board in the shape shown and mounted the LEDs. I used 10mm Red LEDs. The LEDs were soldered as per the circuit diagram. Diode used is 1N4007. Capacitor is 1000uF. Resistor - 200 Ohm.




As the parking tail light runs on AC, so used a bridge rectifier circuit to convert to DC. Capacitor is needed to reduce flickering. Now, I did not want any wire slicing. So used the old bulb to power the LEDs as shown..



The final product looks like this.

I am sorry that I have only one snap of the final tail light at the moment. Also this snap does not show the brake light. Only the parking light. Also at night, the number plate is covered with a cool red glow! I can upload further snaps as and when I click.
Similarly, I have also used white LEDs in the meter console. The while LEDs combined with the green screen found under the dials combine to give a cool teal colored glow! But this time, I forgot to click snaps while opening the console and fitting the LEDs!

I will be happy to answer any doubts regarding the mods.
Now, the reasons for doing all this? Agreed, the LEDs look cool. But I wanted to save power. LEDs consume hardly anything - each LED consume 40 milliwatts. The tail light consumes 5W, brake light - 21W and meter console lights - 3W X 3 = 9W. But as the brake light is not on continously, I save atleast 5W + 9W = 14W. Also, I have removed the front pilot light. So, total 19W saving. So for what purpose? To install a powerful headlight instead of the present 35W comfortably. After the mods, I can now easily install a 55W light without any strain on the alternator.
I will be shortly installing a new headlight. But, I recon I need to change the reflector too. Can you guys suggest which reflector to use? My bike is the old model P150 with round headlamp. I preferably want a direct fit. (Maybe Ambassador silbeam or maruti omni, maruti gypsy, trucks etc)
P.S. - All snaps were taken using my MotoROKR E6."At speeds of 160 Miles Per Hour or say 257.44Kilometer Per Hour You realize the actual speed of your life, Life is Supersonically Fast, Don't miss anything, cause you know it wont come back to you again"
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what is the difference between the diode IN4007 MIC & IN4007 DC
earlier i have used IN4007 MIC which is working fine ,
for 16v capacitor is 170 ohm resistance is ok for 5 L.E.Ds or should i go for 200 ohmsigpic
When a man has pity on all living creatures then only is he noble. ~Buddha~noble.org.in
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Pls help
I made the circuit like this, I used 220 ohm resistors and 1000uf capacitor. 20 LED's for brake light and 12(10+2 for illuminating license plate) LEDs for park light. Tested the circuit with 12V dc supply for brake light and 12V ac supply for park light. Worked fine.. Here are the pics..

Brake light tested

10 park light with 2 white LED's for license plate tested



All gone fine until I fit it into the bike's tail light. After fitting it I noticed that the lights dont have enough brightness, (RX100 is 6v) and there is no park light. I removed it, replaced all resistors with 100 ohm, and checked the whole circuit again and again, whole thing working fine.
Back inside the tail light box, break light is now more bright,


but still there is no park light and the second column from the right doesnt have enough glow. I checked all the wiring again and again, park light circuit working fine when i connect to an external power supply. But not working with the bike's power supply, I checked the bulb holder, It is working fine, checked the old bulb that i broke and connected the wires, it's too working fine. But no park light. Somebody please help me on this.Use your brain to save your brain. WEAR A HELMET!
"You live more in five minutes on a bike like this going flat out than some people live in a lifetime". Burt Munroe
XBHP KLM-TVM-PTA-EKM ICE Sheet
My Facebook page
Check my custom painted RX100
Group riding tips
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change the L.E.Ds which are not bright, i did so & this problem was gonebut still there is no park light and the second column from the right doesnt have enough glow. I checked all the wiring again and again, park light circuit working fine when i connect to an external power supply.
you use 1000mf ??v capacitor so you may need more resistance to save the L.E.Ds
& how did you checked the ckt at home by providing 12v ac
i have changed the diode, capacitor but still when i rev the scooter the L.E.Ds blinks & goes off
sigpic
When a man has pity on all living creatures then only is he noble. ~Buddha~noble.org.in
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I used 1000uf, 25v cap.Originally posted by rider_rock View Postchange the L.E.Ds which are not bright, i did so & this problem was gone
you use 1000mf ??v capacitor so you may need more resistance to save the L.E.Ds
& how did you checked the ckt at home by providing 12v ac
i have changed the diode, capacitor but still when i rev the scooter the L.E.Ds blinks & goes off
then what is the ideal capacitor value?? I used my Creative SBS 2.1 speaker's power adapter for 12v AC. For DC supply i used my broadband modem's power adapter.Use your brain to save your brain. WEAR A HELMET!
"You live more in five minutes on a bike like this going flat out than some people live in a lifetime". Burt Munroe
XBHP KLM-TVM-PTA-EKM ICE Sheet
My Facebook page
Check my custom painted RX100
Group riding tips
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another weird thing is, The RX 100's tail light lens has a prism like pattern in the center region. so the LED's light not fully coming outside. It's ok at the sides where i placed my park light LEDs.Use your brain to save your brain. WEAR A HELMET!
"You live more in five minutes on a bike like this going flat out than some people live in a lifetime". Burt Munroe
XBHP KLM-TVM-PTA-EKM ICE Sheet
My Facebook page
Check my custom painted RX100
Group riding tips
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Both diodes are same. That MIC/DC is the company name I guess. I prefer 200 Ohms. 170 Ohms may be more brighter but may result in shorter life of the LEDs. Not much difference really!Originally posted by rider_rock View Postwhat is the difference between the diode IN4007 MIC & IN4007 DC
earlier i have used IN4007 MIC which is working fine ,
for 16v capacitor is 170 ohm resistance is ok for 5 L.E.Ds or should i go for 200 ohm
You are using 6V. You should use 2 LEDs with 150 Ohms (better) or 3 LEDs with 50 Ohms in series. As voltage decreases, it can no longer support 5 LEDs in series. And after doing this, do not test with 12V. Use only 6V from bike for testing. Diodes, Capacitor remain the same.Originally posted by bikerharis View PostAll gone fine until I fit it into the bike's tail light. After fitting it I noticed that the lights dont have enough brightness, (RX100 is 6v) and there is no park light. I removed it, replaced all resistors with 100 ohm, and checked the whole circuit again and again, whole thing working fine.
Back inside the tail light box, break light is now more bright, but still there is no park light and the second column from the right doesnt have enough glow. I checked all the wiring again and again, park light circuit working fine when i connect to an external power supply. But not working with the bike's power supply, I checked the bulb holder, It is working fine, checked the old bulb that i broke and connected the wires, it's too working fine. But no park light. Somebody please help me on this.
And you should have asked me before using it on 6V!
Make another ckt and use bigger LEDs - you used 5mm LEDs I guess, use 8mm LEDs. They will look better. And fill up the ckt with more LEDs! Will look good in that Yam.
Your ckt was neat. Just make it once again and you are ready to rock!!
Cap value does not affect the resistor values. Only bike voltage affects resistor values. And I think your diode connections are not proper. Please check their polarity.Originally posted by rider_rock View Postchange the L.E.Ds which are not bright, i did so & this problem was gone
you use 1000mf ??v capacitor so you may need more resistance to save the L.E.Ds
& how did you checked the ckt at home by providing 12v ac
i have changed the diode, capacitor but still when i rev the scooter the L.E.Ds blinks & goes off


It will do good. And do not test a ckt designed for 6V with 12V!Originally posted by bikerharis View PostI used 1000uf, 25v cap.
then what is the ideal capacitor value?? I used my Creative SBS 2.1 speaker's power adapter for 12v AC. For DC supply i used my broadband modem's power adapter.
Test directly on the bike.
Keep the LEDs as close to the red plastic cover as possible.Originally posted by bikerharis View Postanother weird thing is, The RX 100's tail light lens has a prism like pattern in the center region. so the LED's light not fully coming outside. It's ok at the sides where i placed my park light LEDs.Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!
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