I have done some research on the internet about the role of the RR unit on bikes. This unit does 2 thing - regulates the voltage and rectifies it to DC.

Our bikes have a permanent magnet charging system - the magnetic field strength is fixed. So, as the engine speed increases, the output voltage of the coil too increases. This regulator maintains it at around 13.8V.

How is the regulation done? Our bikes uses short circuit regulation scheme. The RR unit monitors coil voltage. As soon as it increases above a preset level, it short circuits the coil. Note that it does not open circuit the coil - this would have led to sparking in the RR unit and this principle is used by the ignition coil. These short circuits maintains voltage level. But there is a catch - heat generation occurs due to which cooling is needed in forms of heatsinks. As a significant amount of energy is wasted in form of heat, this system is not very efficient.

Note - this is the reason why we need to change the RR unit too when we change to avenger coil. The stock RR unit can be burnt due to excessive heat generation.

This output is now rectified using full wave rectification circuits to generate DC. The AC output of the rectifier is not rectified. It is just regulated.

Huh? That's surprising. It is not so on my bike. I get 13.x V at all rpms. One thing - won't the lights blow off at 42V?

Shree, do dome real world testing, see if your battery is discharging.

I am thinking to replace the stock rectifier to that on ZMA which by default is built to run the bike on DC without any discharging issue.

As i ve tested in couple of Unicorn, in stock conditions the output is around 13-14volts only.

I got the reading of 42v when the i was checking the output of rectifier made by me. I replaced the capacitor of same 25v & 4700uf and then the voltage dropped to 25v by which i concluded the earlier capacitor was defective or over charging. I don't know ur terms

My battery is new Amaron 9aH (7aH stock) so it isn't really easy to drain it very soon even with stock conditions. I will have to ride atleast 3hours at less than 4rpm to decide.

But i could feel 1 thing, in stock 1 could manage to honk the horn with headlight ON but now horn struggles By this i can say its working as discharger than a charger.

Hm.. I have the same battery. But I'm consuming 35W HID. Where as you are consuming 55W? But even then it both horn and light should work simultaneosuly. Especially if your custom rectifier is charging the battery now. Something is wrong here..

i think there is 55w coil current which is not being used which is sufficient to charge battery

Yes something is wrong but what
But rectifier charges the battery when i take off the battery from bike circuitry and keep it aside.

Just thinking Over, I remember when I had initially installed 55W bulb on DC, it was weaker then actually it was on AC with high revs. The culprit was wiring. Try putting that 55W bulb, with good guage wire directly at battery, and see if there's a fluctuation of light in this case.

When AC headlights are disconnected that current is saved which inturn the 3 phase rectifier can boost the current to battery too. Whereas Unicorn has 1 phase rr unit

My headlight has no flickering. Its as good as when we connect it to car

I meant, even when you sound horn there's no problem? with the headlight as well as the horn?

@Rahul - Maybe UG3 has a inbuilt capacitor somewhere in the bike - digital instruments need clean power supply. At least Apache 160 RTR FI has a capacitor to aid in starting the bike with a dead battery. Cap supports the FI.