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Converted my Pulsar 150 Classic to ALL DC

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  • #46
    Originally posted by rahuldevnath View Post
    Tell me one thing for testing, even i put a full bridge rectifier without a capacitor on a 12V relay, at the headlight points, the relay does'nt work until i put a cap, plus i get around 40 to 42V at full rev!
    It means your headlight runs off AC as relays do not work with AC. You may also hear the relay "chattering" if you run it off AC. So, you are getting 42V AC at the headlight. I have no idea what is happening!
    Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!

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    • #47
      voltage regulator is used for magneto in all bikes which has a battery charging coil and a loading generator coil, voltage regulator has a voltage divider to detect a voltage proportional to a terminal voltage of battery, second it has a voltage divider to detect a voltage proportional to output voltage of the loading generator coil; and third a controlled rectifier to short circuit the battery charging generator coil and adapted to be conductive when either of the voltages detected by the first and second voltage dividers is greater than a predetermined value... the reason its giving you 42v is the regulator isnt functioning.. check n replace..

      Comment


      • #48
        Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post
        Well guys here is how it works in my case. Headlight ON, brake light ON, horn ON - no problem at all. And it is a dual horn set up. It works like in case of cars - no flickering at all. Higher revs lead to a very slight increase of brightness just like cars.
        I have problem only when i use Horn, probably my ROOTs horn is consuming more but even when i honk headlight doesn't go dull even a bit, probably bcz i am using RELAY's for my headlight.

        @Shreeni - Continue testing for a week with the setup and let us know. In my case console and brake lights are LEDs - maybe that helped.
        I have console & tail light on LED, Brake Light is bulb which i never used while testing

        Just a confusing update

        Real time testing
        When Headlight is ON and Rectifier is OFF - Horn sounds OK

        When Headlight is ON and Rectifier is ON - Horn sounds sluggish
        But sometimes when
        Headlight is ON and Rectifier is ON - Horn sounds normal like when Headlight is OFF

        Now what is the funda behind the Horn working fine sometimes??

        Somehow i have a doubt that my ROOT's are consuming more power.
        Thinking to put Stock horn and try
        .

        Comment


        • #49
          It means your headlight runs off AC as relays do not work with AC. You may also hear the relay "chattering" if you run it off AC. So, you are getting 42V AC at the headlight. I have no idea what is happening!
          What I meant to say that, even after full wave rectification there's so much ripples, that relay doesn't work, it chatters as you say.


          voltage regulator is used for magneto in all bikes which has a battery charging coil and a loading generator coil, voltage regulator has a voltage divider to detect a voltage proportional to a terminal voltage of battery, second it has a voltage divider to detect a voltage proportional to output voltage of the loading generator coil; and third a controlled rectifier to short circuit the battery charging generator coil and adapted to be conductive when either of the voltages detected by the first and second voltage dividers is greater than a predetermined value... the reason its giving you 42v is the regulator isnt functioning.. check n replace..
          It could be the case, but that's exactly the same thing happening to my friends P150UG3. Nevertheless, my bike runs of DC, and some how 42V of charging current through my custom rectifier, doesn't damage the battery, or at least gives me 2 years of life!
          Been There, Done That; Better!

          Comment


          • #50
            Originally posted by Shreeni0403 View Post
            I have problem only when i use Horn, probably my ROOTs horn is consuming more but even when i honk headlight doesn't go dull even a bit, probably bcz i am using RELAY's for my headlight.


            I have console & tail light on LED, Brake Light is bulb which i never used while testing

            Just a confusing update

            Real time testing
            When Headlight is ON and Rectifier is OFF - Horn sounds OK

            When Headlight is ON and Rectifier is ON - Horn sounds sluggish
            But sometimes when
            Headlight is ON and Rectifier is ON - Horn sounds normal like when Headlight is OFF

            Now what is the funda behind the Horn working fine sometimes??

            Somehow i have a doubt that my ROOT's are consuming more power.
            Thinking to put Stock horn and try
            .
            I don't know what to make of all this! Is the battery holding up ok? If yes, then I guess the circuit is working.
            Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!

            Comment


            • #51
              A little busy and i am unable to spend time for my bike

              I just got an alternate idea, just check this wiring and let me know whether its possible.



              1st one is the stock wiring and the 2nd is what i am thinking of doing.


              Comment


              • #52
                Originally posted by Shreeni0403 View Post
                A little busy and i am unable to spend time for my bike

                I just got an alternate idea, just check this wiring and let me know whether its possible.



                1st one is the stock wiring and the 2nd is what i am thinking of doing.


                The line from the coil to RR unit is a single wire? In case of pulsar there are 4 wires. So which wire will you connect it to? Do you have Uni electrical circuit diagram? If so, please upload it here. I may be able to suggest you better.
                Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!

                Comment


                • #53
                  Even when it's connected, I doubt whether the stock rectifier can take that extra load. Even with the Avenger Coil, the RR Unit heats up.
                  Been There, Done That; Better!

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post
                    The line from the coil to RR unit is a single wire? In case of pulsar there are 4 wires. So which wire will you connect it to? Do you have Uni electrical circuit diagram? If so, please upload it here. I may be able to suggest you better.
                    Alright will upload the wiring diagram, its 2 line input out of which 1 is grounded. Like this

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Hmm.. if you connect it to the input correctly, maybe it will work. But the rectifier can get overloaded!

                      You have Uni electrical circuit diagram? Or can draw the exact no. of wires from coil to rectifer?
                      Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        regarding the DC setup..

                        Since the new Pulsar 180 (also old/new 220) has the full DC system, can't we find out what changes or components Bajaj has used and then put the same on to our bikes?
                        I have a P200 and I have held off on the DC as the bike does not have a kick and so I could be stuck if some electrical problem occurs.

                        Anyone knows the new Pulsars' electricals?
                        200 | 300 | 1200 BOXER

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Originally posted by tanay View Post
                          Since the new Pulsar 180 (also old/new 220) has the full DC system, can't we find out what changes or components Bajaj has used and then put the same on to our bikes?
                          I have a P200 and I have held off on the DC as the bike does not have a kick and so I could be stuck if some electrical problem occurs.

                          Anyone knows the new Pulsars' electricals?
                          Yes it surely can be done. There are just 4 major components. That is Body Control Unit, The Stator Coil, RR Unit and the Wiring.

                          Only problem is the cost, which come to around 4000 Bucks, compared to hour custom made solutions which won't even pinch 100 bucks in most cases!
                          Been There, Done That; Better!

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            friends sorry for hijacking or disturbing this thread

                            i had a question!!!
                            can any bike be converted into DC like this in a cheap manner like you guys did ?
                            can a two stroke rx 135 4speed be also converted to DC?

                            from the experience so far.... you think it is worth it or it is better to go for a upgrade like 55/60 W setup?
                            Hope is a good thing ,
                            may be the best of things and
                            no good thing ever dies .

                            Get busy living or get busy dying .

                            - The Shawshank Redemption .

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              Yes any bike, which has a battery can be converted to full DC. But I would say DC lighting is only beneficial on a HID setup. All in all, at least a 5amp battery is required for a 35W bulb to be on DC.
                              Been There, Done That; Better!

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                And if you can run other lights on LEDs like I did, you can even run 60/55 without any problems.
                                Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!

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