It was somewhere around 13V. As I said, I do not use this now. And what's the use of another regulator? IF you have the bucks to go for the regulator, go for that instead of this rectifier. This rectifier is something that could be done cheap.

Just for Kicks! just thought might regulate the o/p of custom rectifier too.btw does the stock bulb work on DC?

Before mods, stock h/l is on AC, after the mods, on DC.

So how has this been so far ? .
Think you converted to 90/100 w Ac or its also DC

It was just DC on stock stator coil for a month. Used to run a 60/55 without any problems. Had to decrease load by using LEDs though.

Now, I use a custom coil + custom RR unit and run a 100/90 bulb. Yeah even this set up is DC. Built the RR unit like that. This set up has run for a little over a month till now. No problems. With 100/90 DC, I can run upto 3 HIDs together if I want! But, no money to buy one!

Wooh , a DC setup with 90/100 W power . And no battery draining problems also. You use a larger battery ? .

Does you setup not rob of power of the bike
difficult to imagine without it

No, I have a 1 yr old exide 9Ah battery. No power loss is felt. Anyways to put things into perspective, 100 watts = 0.134102209 hp. It is not really felt!!!

Cool .
thanks 4 ur replies mate.
Well 9 ah is big .
If u could point out a procedure , it would really help us all .
You used the same rectifier that you made and then upgraded the coil.
Or again made some custom rectifier n a coil .

pardon my ignorance here if i talk something wrong .

No, not that rectifier. I made a custom RR Unit (not rectifier only, regulator + rectifier) which replaced the stock one. Used it with the custom Stator Coil.

HI Abhi, Am back again after a few days break. As you adviced, I've ungrounded the light coil and tried to re route it to the RR. I am getting the prev AC volt after getting isolation. This time I tried a new 3 wheeler RR from APE but to my surprise, it didnt worked. Its got 2 AC out and one + and - wire. I've connected the inputs and the ground wire, no output. I've grounded one AC wire like in the stock condition and connected again.wow, its working but... 5V DC...... I got this RR from the junk, so I tried with a brand new, bad luck, it shows the same. Fotunately I got my money back for the new one. Abhi, do you have any idea in this? RR unit circuit which I've assembled is no more working after some trials so I disposed. I got a chance to check with an XCD RR. connected the RR but there also the Amps limitation as the stock RR is supposed to feed only a 35W so no more expectations from the new P180 also as its also having the same bulb. Now I am looking for a chance with P220 RR, will make a hole of Rs.700, but am ready to take part. Before that any suggestions?

You will get the same voltage after ungrounding too. It is the power that will increase.

If you try any RR unit, first get the electrical connection diagram of that vehicle. It is important. These electronics will not work if you just connect them! Get the diagram of P220 and I can help you.

Thanks Abhi, Getting a wiring diagram of 220 is difficult and so is the other diesel engine's. But I have solved the issue with the junk yard goody. Previously I've connected the inputs and the ground and checked any current is coming by just shorting and checking with meter but no activity from there. Yesterday I've connected the + out to the batt directly and checked, while touching the battery with the + out of the RR I saw sparks that shows something is from there. I connected it and checked the current output WOWW a whopping 8A @ 4K pumping to the batt!!. With that I've ridden 1.20 min yesterday with HID on fully. I was very generous in using my twin horns (Roots Vibrasonic 3.5AX 2)which was roaring as if it is connected to a higher amps batt, till yesterday it was crying after 40 mins with HID. I tried my twin spots (H3 55WX2) for a 10 mins, no issues, nothing is touching my 2 year old stuff. My batt stays cool. This morning I started with with self like anyother day, its cool!! Charging volt is 13.5-14 max @ 4k. I was really jumping like a kid, after a long time, I just found it and the 50% credit it to you Abhi, from your inspiration only I've gone for this. Thanks a lot for this.


I think I need a few more days to confirm the success, but I am fully confident in this as of now no wires are heating and the RR is also stays cool as if it can handle more power, its just warm and I can not call it as hot.

Avhijeet, I have converted my apache RTR to full DC yesterday (with the help of our fellow xbhp member "NOX"). I have connected a direct DC power using a 12v 30amp relay. Now my headlamp (55/60) tail lamp, console everything runs on DC. Every thing is OK, apart from when the headlight is on and press the horn button it sound bit sluggish, not as sharp when the H/L is off. I fear that it will drain the battery.

My point is that I have disconnected the AC power which goes to H/L from the RR unit. So the AC power which used to feed the H/L is now jobless. Can I use this AC power to charge the battery faster? If yes should your custom RR unit will do the job?

Yes, this custom rectifier (not RR unit btw!) is just for that purpose only!

But use 35/35 bulb. Anything higher may drain the batt.

@sajanjosepht
So, finally what are the mods done? Please give us a summary.

So, what is the use of the custom rectifier, and the setup I have already did with my bike? My main moto was to use a 55/60 for better headlight. I was not very much concerned about flickering 35/35 over magneto.
What are the other option left to use 55/60 without hampering the horn sound. Please suggest.
In RTR CDI draws the current direct from battery, not from the magneto like pulsars, will using a 55/60 bulb hamper the performence of the bike also as it is draws more current then 35/35?