If you are least bothered about the flickering, why do you want to make it all DC and mess of it. TVS is always good for their electical side, am quite confident of supporting a 55/60W from the magneto itself. My first bike was as Samurai was having 55/60W Philps which was glowing like a plasma without any mods in magneto. So defnitly it will support this too. So your batt is purely reserved for the starter and horns etc. will last the batt life too. Boosting the charging rate surely affects the batt life, and using a 55/60 on batt will require intensive charging than an HID.

The custom rectifier converts AC to DC. So, now you can use 35W HID.

60/55W can work. Just that you will have to try and see if TVS electricals are strong enough. If RTR uses DC CDI, performance can potentially decrease if the battery discharges badly.

If you want 60/55, and do not mind dimming at idle, use LEDs in place of tail lamp and see. That will save about 10W. Else, try this rectifier and see.

Abhi, you need more infos on what? I've detailed everything I've done on my earlier post. Anything specific?

So, finally, you use an APE RR unit for the AC coil and the stock RR unit for the DC coil. Both connected to the battery. Correct?

Why do we need the stock RR any more if this big RR can feed the batt without any issues? This is capable of pumping a whopping 8A @ 4K to the batt from my 100W (I would say 100+ as it was feeding 2 position lights of 5W+all console lights of 4X1.4W+3WX3+ 100/90 + 4w for number plate and tail light of 5W , so just count it. Min of 130W!!)stator coil. So I dismantled it from my bike. Am afraid to count how much I've puffed off for my 5 year old P.Everything is from batt now and no struggles so far. My batt coil is idle now, I can reserve this for any other purpose later on.

I've done some electrical changes to switches earlier to take the load off from the stock switches by using relays. I've changed the right H side switch module recently and I swapped it with PUG4 model, its got another switch, with that use the spots from the handle bars. So no extra switches hanging, mounted. All loads are connected through relays, I think I've used 4 SPDT relays to tackle this.

Abhi, whats the ideal volt for a LED to glow to its full brightness? I would like to go in for your console mod, looks so cool. Howmany LEDs u've used for each console? Let me have some details of the resistor values.

Ok.. but ur load is 130W and 8A supply is 8x12 = 96W.

About the resistor values, tell me what colour LEDs do you want to use?



I sanded the top of each LED flat and glued using feviquik. One LED each below 0, 20, 40, 60 etc..

Abhi, I was just calculating the old setup, now you've to deduct the 65W from as I've replaced 100/90 with 35W HID. And am not an expert like you in this, all I know is everything are fine now and me too

Does the colour matters or size and nos? I'v got green backside coating so which one u suggest? I fine with ur config of nos LEDs. Which is that blue or white? Its very cool, but I think white will be good for green back ground.

How about the odo and trips? Nothing on that side? I feel something is required badly as the counters are not clearly visible.

Sanding will disburse the light more evenly, I've seen some LED lamps with translucent covers like that. Right?

I have removed the green coating by using acetone. (Nail polish remover) And, its blue LEDs here.

For resistors, see ledcalc.com. Blue is very catchy, white is classy. And, it is the mobile camera. Everything is visible!

Thanks ya, ledcalc.com is very useful.

U've a PM

Ok, So, as per your last reply, I should disconnect all the new setup I did in my bike and use this custom rectifier in place. Disconnect the AC line from the rectifier which feed the headlight at stock condition, and route it through custom rectifier to make it DC and then connect it to the headlight wire. So, in this case this custom rectifier will not provide any extra charge to battery and only the headlight will receive constant DC power, without flickering. This way my battery will get normal load and the horn & CDI acts normally. Correct me if any thing wrong.

But will I be able to use 55/60 in this new setup? Because the AC power was for only 35/35 bulb and the tale light and console. I have already converted the tell lamp and the console to direct battery and they are all LED. So the only load is headlight. After doing this conversation previously I tried using a 55/60 through the AC, the light was very poor at idle and was not in its full potential even in high RPM.



I am bit confused now. Which option should I go for, My motto is to use a 55/60 bulb without degrading the performance of the bike or the horn. Please suggest something.

Use of custom RR is to boost the batt charging, else, u could use the stock RR. If u want more power from the stock coil, u've to sacrifice some existing load by using LED to console lighting. Or go for stator rewinding to make it a 100W. Flicker free lighting is only from DC lighting but the brightness will be more with AC lighting as the Stock RR restricts full current and volt to maintain batt health.

There are lot of fools who doesnt know what they are doing atleast. Dont listen to thoses idiots and judge urself with logic and act accordingly. A KB100 RR is supposed to feed a batt of 2.5A, so think about it before going for it. I think you should go through these forums from the first to get a an outline about these.

My replies in bold.

YES, I have specific doubts

I am posting the Unicorn wiring diagram and a image which for which i used MSPAINT. That shows how the setup is in Unicorn now. Edit and repost, how should i connect it. Also plz PM me your contact number and email address

RR Unit (U reply here)


RR Unit


Unicorn Wiring (Full)

^^ Hey, there are 2 wires, G and W from the coil. In you MS paint diagram, it has only one wire. Is the G wire grounded?

Edit : I guess so! Y is AC o/p, R is DC o/p at the RR unit. IMO, the G needs to be ungrounded from the stator coil plate. And another wire needs to be used for the second connection from the coil. Let is be B.

Now, as for the connections, B, W will be input to the RR unit. And there will be 2 output. One is grounded. The other should be connected to Y as well as R.

Obiviously its grounded as you can see from the diag. Sreeni you have to disconnect the stock RR and the batt negative terminal( we've to check the voltage and amps from the RR before connecting to the circuit) Bolt the new RR to a convient place along with the earth wire from the RR. To get a full wave bridge, u need to isolate the grounding of the light coil and take the lead out by using any of the batt charging coil wire as we dont require it any more. Hope u got it what I meant. Am I right Abhi? Dont worry about the identifying the light wires, you need to open the stator cover for isolating the grounding, that time you can have a close look and count with the higher no of poles, that is our boy. Rest of it are pretty straight, Feed these two leads of light coil straight away to the new RR. (Lead colour will be the same for the AC wires). There is one more wire ie. the +ve output connect it to the batt switch in the ignition switch. Thats it, check the voltage and current with a meter if its between 13-14.5 and the current should be more than 5A u are done. Connect the -ve terminal once u are ok with the readings. Always make sure that you are not making short lenghthed any of the wires coming out of the coil for connecting the other light coil (By doing so, any time you can go back to the stock wiring by undoing these all) Never pull out any wires from that harness as the water can easily get into the stator and u will end up in a thick soup.

U want my email and contact no or Abhi's? Confirm it. This will work as the general electrical systems are almost alike.