This bike has a single stator coil. No separate AC, DC at the coil. (Look at the diag). Only the RR unit does that separation. So, you will need a separate extra wire.

Diag is not full and clear so I cant figure out correctly. Then wats next to the magneto coil (wire from magneto indicated as light) See the full diag, stator sec. pulse coil to CDI (DC CDI!! this wont start without a batt like bulls?) the left most, center coil is the batt coil I hope, and the third coil shown separatly is named as light. See that? Take a zoom view.

How did u take out the coil lead out and routed to RR?, I checked with the harness, the black wire to the RR was grounded within the harness. Evenif you ungrounded and using the stock harness to connect the new RR, in effect its grounded. Thus I took a seperate wire from the coil socket directly to the RR.

The thing to the right of the coil is the pulsar coil for ignition, to the left is the freaking neutral indicator. And this is a DC CDI.

Sreeni has shown me this diag before too. I told him at that time that this is not from an Uni. He tells me its from his manual. Now, Uni has a freaking DC CDI?! No way!

And, in case of my wiring, I used 2 separate thicker wires from the 2 ends of the coil. Did not use any stock wires.

And, oh, he is asking for your contact details!

Yeah right, I figured out after ur tip, thanks Abhi. If its from his mannual we've to accept it. What are the pros and cons of AC/DC CDI's? Beeing a DC CDI, stator will've more power than AC types? due to the absence of AC coil for CDI?

Sreeni, have u tried to start ur bike without batt by kicker? I think its possible if RR is present.

Oh really? let'm say

The stator power is not really affected. But a DC CDI will have enough power at idle rpm to fire the spark plug evenly while a AC CDI may have problem. Thats it. So, a DC CDI will result in more efficient sparks at lower rpms. But, the DC CDI depends on the battery health too.

Sreeni, can you please confirm that Uni has DC CDI. It should be mention in the specifications part of the manual.

According to HH website. Uni has Digital CDI! Who knows what that is!

I didn't understand Head or Tail.
I want your number and mail address, i already have Abhi's.

MY BIKE WILL START WITHOUT BATTERY.
IT WILL START EVEN WITHOUT RR UNIT.

PM YOUR EMAIL ID, I SHALL MAIL U MUCH CLEAR WIRING DIAGRAM.
NO CLUE !! NOT IN MANUAL!!

WHEN DID HH WEBSITE STARTED GIVING INFO ON UNI

Well, if it starts without Battery as well as RR unit, your CDI seems to be AC CDI. In that case, this diag may be wrong. Please confirm by comparing some important wires' colour codes as see if they match! Better start looking at the wires from the CDI. Are they the same as here?

Abhi suggested something like this...

Abhi's right, it should be then a AC CDI, without batt and RR how will the DC CDI will work? But its not our current concern, u need to boost the batt for that your latest diagram is correct. Pull out the grounding and manage somehow to take out a wire for that from the stator cover and feed these two wires directly to the new RR without using the stock harness. Connect the other ends to batt and gnd. Done, DONT FORGET TO MEASURE THE OUTPUT BEFORE SWITCHING ANYTHING.

I'll PM my contact details to u now. Sorry for the delay I was off for 2 days. R u still confused with what I've done? Its not that complex, once u have the basic awareness, any one can follow like me, am from commerce field. Defnitly u've it, else u wont come up with these

Abhi, we've increased the bat charging rate to its max, will if affect the batt life? If not why the OEM is not coming with a better charging rate? Its not a costly affair too. I heard from somewhere that a healthy charging rate is 10% of the cap of the batt. After reaching to the full charge, it wont take any more but the charger is forcing irrespective of the levels. In home invertors there's a circuit to cut off the batt charger to avoid overcharging, any possibility to adopt? Pls comment.

I think the stock RR Unit also takes care of cutting off the power, am not sure with the APE RR unit.

I am telling this with respect to AMMETER indication. Once battery is full the Ammeter needle used to settle in middle (no charge/discharge).

None of these RR have this function to my knowledge as it feeds only on a healthy rate it wont hurt the batt.

And for the Ammeter reading, its just an indicator, if the batt chrg/dischrg only it will show+/-, else, no activity It cant show the batt is full or not.
While charging we assume that its not full.

Look, if we keep a battery at its normal voltage of 13.8V, it will take current only if it is not fully charged. If the voltage is fixed, it doesn't matter how powerful the source is. The current is fixed.

The more heavily discharged it is, the more current it will consume. So, if we connect a fully discharged battery to 13.8V, it will consume very high current which can explode the battery. So, in case of a discharged battery we need to limit the current nominally to 10% of the Ah rating.

Suppose, we increase this voltage to above 13.8V. The current flow will increase again and this may heat up the battery. This current is of no use to the battery, as it is already 100% charged. So, it is given off as heat. This evaporates the water in the battery and you need frequent top ups.

So, when is this high voltage needed? Its only benefit is to charge up a weak battery quickly. A 14.x V source can charge up a battery quicker than a 13.8V source. But, after the battery has finished charging, the voltage needs to be decreased. This is what exactly happens in an home inverter or battery charger when trickle charge is activated.

Now, why does manufacturer fix the voltage level in the RR unit to 14V often? This is to quick charge a battery after the starter uses up some of the charge. But this is harmful in the long run after the battery gets fully charged. On the other hand, a 13.8V source will need some time to charge, hence the battery may not be fully charged by the next time you need to use the starter.

So, best for the battery - 13.8V, best for you - 14.x V! And power source does not matter.

That is the way voltage is. It does not matter if you connect you connect a 220V bulb light to a 100kV electric station or a home generator. If voltage applies is a proper 220V, it will not burst!

Wow thats something worth to read Abhi, but no word on why these OEMs sticks to mean amps range than a full throttle of current produced from the alt? Bit confused still. I understand that the voltage has a significant role in charging at the same time does the current also have same importance in this? Like you pointed about the 100Kv eg, I've another thing to dig, its just like we use thick wires for higher current conductivity. We know the difference in using a thick wire and puny wire perfo. Likewise, does the current makes the diff in charging? Sorry if I make a blunt statement. I think u can gimme a simple briefing on this.