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Converted my Pulsar 150 Classic to ALL DC

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  • Originally posted by dux View Post
    i bought one capacitor 25v 4700uf
    four 6AIO Mic diodes.
    one 5 pin relay 10A Dc12V

    in my case, maybe my steps wlll be
    yellow wire is located from regulator device towards headlights depts.
    disconnect this yellow wire.
    add custom rectifier. dc volts to battery.
    other part of yellow wire will go to brown wire.

    am i fine till now , sirji
    For a Discover 135, follow this

    Cut the yellow wire emerging from RR
    take the yellow wire (from RR end) & feed it to your custom rectifier
    take a point of the chasis & feed it to the custom rectifier
    directly connect the two output wires to the battery +ve & -ve.
    now, connect the remaining free end of the yellow wire (that goes to the headlight) to the brown wire (locate near starter switch) & you're done

    you won't need the DC change-over relay, skip that.
    Its the fusion of a two wheeled machine & a human being which creates a true biker.

    Fine me on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/krazzykid.abhijeet

    Pulsar spare parts price list (indicative only):
    http://www.scribd.com/doc/42303845/P...re-Parts-Price
    http://www.scribd.com/doc/99085008/Bajaj-180-Pulsar-UG3

    Comment


    • Originally posted by Abhijeet Bhattacharjee View Post
      For a Discover 135, follow this

      Cut the yellow wire emerging from RR
      take the yellow wire (from RR end) & feed it to your custom rectifier
      take a point of the chasis & feed it to the custom rectifier
      directly connect the two output wires to the battery +ve & -ve.
      now, connect the remaining free end of the yellow wire (that goes to the headlight) to the brown wire (locate near starter switch) & you're done

      you won't need the DC change-over relay, skip that.
      thanks dear, i was waiting for a reply. now i am almost clear.
      take a point of the chasis, by saying this, you mean a wire from body/frame to custom rectifier for (-) negetive. am i right.?
      what is the exact point to cut yellow wire from rr end side.
      i will buy 7amp battery day after tomorrow.
      thanks a lot, happy new year 2012.

      Comment


      • take a point of the chasis, by saying this, you mean a wire from body/frame to custom rectifier for (-) negetive. am i right.?
        almost, but its not -ve but a part of AC would be tapped via a wire from chassis.

        what is the exact point to cut yellow wire from rr end side.
        cut the yellow wire just before it enters the plug to the wiring harness

        i will buy 7amp battery day after tomorrow.
        you won't be needing 1, your battery won't drain above 2500 RPM.
        Its the fusion of a two wheeled machine & a human being which creates a true biker.

        Fine me on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/krazzykid.abhijeet

        Pulsar spare parts price list (indicative only):
        http://www.scribd.com/doc/42303845/P...re-Parts-Price
        http://www.scribd.com/doc/99085008/Bajaj-180-Pulsar-UG3

        Comment




        • have done, my custom rectifier.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Abhijeet Bhattacharjee View Post
            almost, but its not -ve but a part of AC would be tapped via a wire from chassis.


            cut the yellow wire just before it enters the plug to the wiring harness


            you won't be needing 1, your battery won't drain above 2500 RPM.
            after reading ur reply, now i have realized i have to tap another black wire to my custom rectifier black wire side. so that it will work for -ve ac.
            any advice please.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by dux View Post
              after reading ur reply, now i have realized i have to tap another black wire to my custom rectifier black wire side. so that it will work for -ve ac.
              any advice please.
              not required, this will also do, though you'll be losing a bit of power in this case but its fine. Use proper heat-sinks for the diodes & capacitor.
              Its the fusion of a two wheeled machine & a human being which creates a true biker.

              Fine me on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/krazzykid.abhijeet

              Pulsar spare parts price list (indicative only):
              http://www.scribd.com/doc/42303845/P...re-Parts-Price
              http://www.scribd.com/doc/99085008/Bajaj-180-Pulsar-UG3

              Comment


              • @Dux

                A silicon bridge-rectifier such as MB3505 ,KBPC3506 should be more appropriate.
                It can take up-to 35 amps and it is very easy to install a heat-sink.
                Cost less than Rs.60/-

                Comment


                • Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post
                  @Dux

                  A silicon bridge-rectifier such as MB3505 ,KBPC3506 should be more appropriate.
                  It can take up-to 35 amps and it is very easy to install a heat-sink.
                  Cost less than Rs.60/-
                  costs 40 bucks for 40A unit.
                  Its the fusion of a two wheeled machine & a human being which creates a true biker.

                  Fine me on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/krazzykid.abhijeet

                  Pulsar spare parts price list (indicative only):
                  http://www.scribd.com/doc/42303845/P...re-Parts-Price
                  http://www.scribd.com/doc/99085008/Bajaj-180-Pulsar-UG3

                  Comment




                  • am i correct according to this cut, tap, join steps inside the diagram.

                    when things are done, will my motorcycle be on full dc.? custom rectifier is connected to a battery for all time . do there any discomfort.
                    where is stock rr. diagram says it has a regulator only.
                    from stator coil which one is my lighting coil ac positive+ wire.?
                    lighting coil ac negative - wire., i guess it is grounded.

                    Abhijeet Bhattacharjee , shoeb2015 thank you a lot for your care n support.

                    Comment


                    • am i correct according to this cut, tap, join steps inside the diagram.
                      Cut the yellow wire between the RR & Plug so that if anything goes wrong in the future only RR change would be enough but a faulty wiring harness is not easy to fix. Rest is fine
                      when things are done, will my motorcycle be on full dc.? custom rectifier is connected to a battery for all time . do there any discomfort.
                      Yes, it'll be full DC. Yes the custom rectifier would always be connected, no prob.
                      where is stock rr. diagram says it has a regulator only.
                      There is a printing error in the diagram, that is the stock RR
                      from stator coil which one is my lighting coil ac positive+ wire.?
                      Y/R wire is unregulated AC into the RR & Y is the regulated AC to headlight.
                      lighting coil ac negative - wire., i guess it is grounded.
                      Yes, but since its AC, its not -ve. AC has no polarity :P
                      Its the fusion of a two wheeled machine & a human being which creates a true biker.

                      Fine me on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/krazzykid.abhijeet

                      Pulsar spare parts price list (indicative only):
                      http://www.scribd.com/doc/42303845/P...re-Parts-Price
                      http://www.scribd.com/doc/99085008/Bajaj-180-Pulsar-UG3

                      Comment




                      • till now...i am.
                        please confirm my circuit is okay.
                        bridge rectifier as per shoeb2015 bhai suggestion.
                        25v 4700uf capacitor added.
                        rectifier ac negative (-) is empty. will i join it with black dc -ve wire.

                        will update soon.
                        any idea how to cover open connections.
                        Last edited by dux; 01-09-2012, 12:07 PM.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by dux View Post


                          till now...i am.
                          please confirm my circuit is okay.
                          bridge rectifier as per shoeb2015 bhai suggestion.
                          25v 4700uf capacitor added.
                          rectifier ac negative (-) is empty. will i join it with black dc -ve wire.

                          will update soon.
                          any idea how to cover open connections.
                          The solder and the wires haven't been heated properly,probably due to a low wattage iron.
                          Try to use clips like this to attach wires to the Rectifier.


                          You can use heat shrink tubing to cover it or use a liquid electrical tape/insulator.
                          That heat-sink is big and good.
                          Last edited by shoeb2015; 01-09-2012, 05:49 PM.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post
                            Hi guys! My Pulsar 150 now runs on all DC. In stock condition, the headlight, tail lamp and pilot lamp (parking), console lamps runs on AC. Rest of the stuffs - horn, indicators, tachometer, brake lamp, tell tale lamps, fuel meter and the starter motor runs on DC through the battery. I converted all the AC stuffs to run on DC.

                            Advantages -
                            1. Nil Flickering at idle - constant brightness of headlight.
                            2. HID ready - can directly install HID in place of my 60/55W light. No battery draining issues.

                            The procedure is described below. Can be potentially adapted to any bikes.

                            Step 1

                            Prepare the AC to DC rectifier circuit. The circuit diagram is given below.



                            The above circuit is a standard bridge rectifier circuit. Use only parts mentioned above. Check for correct polarity of the diodes and the capacitors.
                            Hi friend,

                            This circuit is entirely wrong. It may be kill your magneto coil at high R.P.M..
                            Pulsar 150 ES can't convert to DC in this way.
                            Coz one of the Lighting coil is internally connected to ground(GND or Body) in magneto(dynamo) and the other one is Y/R wire to Regulated Rectifier(RR).
                            Internal grounding of magneto help to reduce the wires in the circuit. (Now the Magneto & RR wires are 6)
                            This is the main risk to convert all circuit to DC.

                            Now the battery charging circuit is DC. And the charging coil is separated or not grounding internally.
                            But the lighting circuit is AC and share one of the AC line with Ground or negative of battery.

                            If anyone convert AC to DC this way it not safe.
                            If convert AC to DC use with a bridge circuit minimum four wires are required.
                            Never share one AC line and negative of DC on a bridge ckt. It will be burn one bridge diode or magneto coil at high power.

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by dux View Post


                              have done, my custom rectifier.
                              Hi friend,

                              This circuit is entirely wrong. It may be kill your magneto coil at high R.P.M..

                              The lighting coil power is reduce to half in the above circuit.
                              In above circuit lighting coil half-wave shorted by one bridge diode.

                              You can use a half-wave rectifier to convert AC to DC. The below ckt save your magneto lighting coil. But the lighting coil power is reduce to half as the above circuit.

                              Last edited by jomeshkckc; 02-14-2012, 09:18 AM.

                              Comment


                              • sort this...

                                Originally posted by jomeshkckc View Post
                                Hi friend,

                                This circuit is entirely wrong. It may be kill your magneto coil at high R.P.M..

                                The lighting coil power is reduce to half in the above circuit.
                                In above circuit lighting coil half-wave shorted by one bridge diode.

                                You can use a half-wave rectifier to convert AC to DC. The below ckt save your magneto lighting coil. But the lighting coil power is reduce to half as the above circuit.

                                could anyone please throw light to this post?i too own a pulsar 150 06 model..would like to do..high rpm is often for my bike.hence i dont want to take risks..could anyone explain the stuff at high rpms?
                                I'm a responsible rider.It doesn't matter what you ride,but what matters is how you ride.

                                Comment

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