Drji, I guess any of the 3 input wires will do the job for a single phase coil. Being a sealed unit, there's nothing much left for a mod.

This is a typical 3 phase RR unit diagram and its almost similar to 2 phase except one addnl coil + regulator+rectifier. If u remove these surely its a single phase and thats why I said we can use any of the 2 yellow lines.


Kaushik, am I correct?

P220 RR is costing around 900+ AFAIK as per my first market research has it come down?.

Sajjat & drvmtm:

The RR cost me Rs.850.00 approx, it is for the P220F with higher power output, the RR for the 220S is Rs.736.00 with a bit less output, both has two different part no.

i have changed my pulsar ug 2 s headlight unit to classic unit.it is the BEST MOD i have done till date.

i used the full front unit of tvs fiero fx fiem clear lance reflector with a bixenon 4300k hid.the light throw and output seems to increase as the focus and throw of the light is too good.ITS NOWHERE COMPARABLE TO THE OLD UG 3 S REFLECTOR I WAS USING.

as of any mods i faced some problem and thinking of to get around them.first one is where to place the ballast properly.
second one is the place of wires are very less because the bixenon takes so much of space so have to place the headlight dome a little bit front.
i will update with pictures as soon a s possible.

What could be the price of a 4300k HID bulb?

Dude, u cant convert it to a 3 phase alternator, as each coil shares one end with the other two coils.



With this setup u r getting only the lighting coil output as the charging line one end is open and the result is no output from the stock charging coil to the RR.


This is why am curious about the output of the RR in Amps.

^^ @Sajjt - He connected the 3 wires to the 3 inputs of the RR unit, if I understand correctly. A round about way, but yes it should work.

Ok... here is what I did...
First, I had placed a small piece of thin aluminum foil (but which turned out to be just a thin coating on paper) to minimize the play. After one day, I saw that it had charred. I thank god that it did not catch fire or anything. So please dont do something foolish like this...

Now what I have done is to take a small strip of metal 5mm in width, less than 1mm in thickness, bend it to fit inside the area where the hid bulbs base moves. I have two pieces of them, one for top and one for bottom, leaving the area around the groove free. I inserted these strip in the gap, fixed used quickfix. Now the vibration of the bulb has reduced by > 80%. The setup has now held for 3 days...

BTW, I have noticed the reflector surface, though not directly above the bulb, bubbling up and darkening... Seems the glare cap is causing this, as when I had the previous hid which did not have any glare cap, there were no such problems... hmmm. But I dont care even if i have to change the reflector every 6 months... the light is worth it...

the bulb alone should cost somewhere around 600-700.... if you are going for philips or osram it might go high upto a couple of thousands...

Lijo, nice tweak. If I were u, I would stick the foil to the tube with some heat resistant glue than sticking it to the well. Every switching, it should be rubbing the capsule and the end result will be premature life span of HID tube.

Abhi, This is my assumption: Both coils are floating, Taking two coil ends will be 4 wires where we can connect only 3 wires to a 3 phase RR. Leaving one coil end open will give any output?

after using a serise of projectors which list i m giving below...

• p 220
• skoda octavia h3
• skoda? bi xenon
• aftermaket bixenon projectors.

PROJ ARE ONLY TOO GOOD FOR LOW BEAM,THERE IS NO DENIAL ABOUT IT.BUT FOR HIGH BEAM THE REFLECTOR STILL RULES.

see here are some pictures of projectors of low beam..they work WONDERS IN CASE OF HIDS CUTOFF AND GLARE PROTECTION.


the above two pictures are of projectors with hid s working in low beam which is TOO GOOD as you can see,so IN LOW BEAM THE PROJECTORS RULE AND THAT IS THE TRUTH.
IMP OF PROJECTORS IN LOW BEAM

1. definite cut off line as per arai/euro fed.
2. can be used with hids and works great.
3. no specific hotspot of light,rather it creatsa nice equal distribution of light zone(low beam shouldn't have any hot spots according to arai which is came into action from arround 2000).

low beam area coverage is far far better then any reflector so projectors rule again here.

High beam:-

high beam is a completely different ball game.here the light needs to have following characteristics

1. hot spot+a little spread(15-25 degree spread with hot spot)
2. no close flooding of light as it contracts the pupil of our eye and worsens the distant vision althoughit creates a false perception of better viewing which is even more dangerous.
3. main focus of lights should be at distant,more like a spot but with a bit more spread.

see the follwing pictures and observe the spread..


now if you look closly you can see the hot spot which is essential for distant focus and less focus in near.

now bixenon projectors are using a electomagnetic curtain plate which they just lift off and the low beam converts to high beam,like covering your eye with your hand half is low beam and then lift off your hand is hi beam,look closly the following pictures....


now if you see closly the low beam is excellent and the high beam is just lowbeam+lift off shed for more light.as a result this creates flood beam in near area which is actually bad for distant viewing.

our pupils dilate(opens up) in dark situations and let more light in to see better.more near light hampers that situation and ultimatly hampers the distant vision.
Even Mr.Jermy clarkson of bbc s top gear said the not so good about ferraris f 430s dual bixenon projectors.

this is may be one of the sole reason even todays cars retain reflectors if they can for high beam.
also the free form reflectors which are widly in use now days are made by computer calibrated set up so the cutoff and the light production is very nice compared to earlier gen glass striated ones.(amby ones).

so the math is simple.

for low beam=dedicated low beam projector

for high beam=free form multifocal reflector


use of hid or halogen is simply up to the user and more up to the vehicles electrical s,if it can pull halogen bulbs ,why not use it?a 100 watt halogen is very nice in terms of light.

practically speaking as very less number of indian two whleers are having a robust electrical system where a user can use two 55 watt halogen lamps with a peace of mind the need of hid is far more felt in case of our indian 2 whleers.

i am too sure if some ones car can pull 2 halogen of decent power ,he/she will not feel the urge to shift to hid,the same goes to many ninja owners.

as of mine personal fev is hid is because its efficiency to power to light output ratio.cant help it!

hope it helps.....
hope this clear up some confusion.

o btw the pics of my classic mod..


@mods -caNT resize the images,please do so if needed.seems something wrong in my pc.

Sajan, it does not rub with the glass capsule...i've fixed it to the edge of the tube in which the capsule base moves. Anyway, its working fine for me, so much that, now I miss the shaking of the light ...

Bixenon HID taken apart

Attaching few pics from my tinkering with a bixenon HID....

Lijo, as told by u, its the hinge could be the reason for the vibration. Does the solenoid base got a spring to push the capsule back to the low beam position once the power out from the solenoid? Try to put a sleeve on to the hinge spindle to reduce the play.