Hello riders,
Yes, this problem I'm facing for a long time, I've already replaced the whole clutch assembly, cylinder piston kit,and curburator, all are stock,using recommend engine oil 10w30 (power one).
Still I'm not getting the atleast performance. I have a ride a week ahead. But my machine is getting sluggish after crossing 60kmph(5500rpm).it starts roar.
What to do to make that free. I'll indicate my mechanic as per your advises.
Thanks
Mrityunjoy Chatterjee.

guys my rear drum brakes of unicorn are really spongy.so i replaced with new ones and cleaned the steel lining also but was of no use.so can anyone give me suggestion to some any other manufacturer drum shoes which will have good bite and fit for unicorn rear drum .thanks

Check the line that comes from the stator it would split into 2/3 couplers, from Sibuns post I presume there are only two, the single line is the neutral switch, the other one is the Pulsar Coil/Stator Output line.

I am using second own Cb unicorn 150 , completed approx 45 K . I am facing low FE issue ( approx 35 to 40 in city ) . I have tried various Carb setting from 2 full turn to 3 full turn but FE remain same . One of the mechanic told me issue with clutch plate, hence change it week back but issue remain same .

Is TPS setting will help to improve FE ? also i am not able to find point 3 'pulser coil coupler" please help me to locate it if you can post photo it will help a lot .

Hello Sibun, I have initialized the TPS but with some variations in values as mentioned below in bold. Please check whether it is ok or not.


Initializing of TPS is done to match the TPS output with CDI so that optimum map is selected for firing.
Unicorn and extreme runs DC CDi and these CDI unlike other CDI has micro chips. Or in other words it is like ECU but slightly less brain that ECU. It has as many has 10 firing modes and varies. So if tps is not initialized optimum performance cannot be obtained.
For initializing the TPS follow the procedure:-
1. Keep ignition switch(key) in off position.
2. Fasten the throttle sensor to the carburettor and connect the connector.
3. Remove the pulser coil coupler( there are two coupler coming out of magnet- one is neutral switch coming from front sprocket and other is coming from magnet- open the magnet one), and give 12 V supply from battery(by separate wire from battery positive) positive to blue/yellow wire(blue wire with yellow stripe), which is going to CDI.
4. Put on the ignition and the tachometer will shoe 1000 rpm(do not start the bike only ignition key is on).
Yes it was exactly 1000 rpm.
5. Give full throttle and tachometer shows 2000 rpm.
I got 2000 rpm.
6. Close the throttle and tachometer shows 3000 rpm.
I got 3000 rpm.
7.turn throttle to full and tach shows 7000 rpm.
In this step only I got 8000 rpm instead of 7000 rpm.
8. Close the throttle again and tachometer will show 5000 rpm and then will show 7000 rpm immediately.
Here also it stays at 8000 rpm. never come down to 5000 rpm.
9. Switch off the ignition and refit the coupler.
Done.
10. Complete each operation within 8 seconds.
11. If tachometer shows 10000 reading at any stage repeat the process.

Change disk pad and disk brake fluid.

But i am hearing screeching noise from front disk and the front brakes remain applied all the time as i can see the rear light glowing all the time

what would be the issue?

Replaced chain kit with CB Unicorn alloy wheels. Average went down to 30 from 42 in city..

CB unicorn alloy has gearing of 15/43
Yours has 14/43.

So in effect you are dropping 500 rpm in 5th gear.

That is causing engine to lug and loosing torque.

So you are loosing put on fuel efficiency.

Hi guys am a new memberon this platform from KENYA. I have a hunk. I bought in 2015 and it has been giving me good service till recently when a myriad of problems started haunting it. It started with jerks at 70-80km/hr. This was rectified by reducing the size of the jet in the carb, it was then followed by an engine seizure which I later learnt that the oil was flowing properly. I replaced the damaged parts was back on the road. Now the engine tends to loose power at speeds of 70 and above and also going uphill. What should I check? Thanks.

It's not a carburettor problem.
Check the pulsar coil from coil base to CDI

Somewhere the earthing of that will be loose.
Most probably near the coil.

I checked that too.. Float valve would fit only in one way into the groove. May be i will give one more try later to confirm.