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Yamaha Gladiator(All)

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  • surendran
    replied
    my gladdy also nearing two years old now,
    my battery drained out a few months ago.., i topped it up but it completely went off, so i changed it to AMCO

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  • Ri$hi
    replied
    ^^You have a PM

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  • Kailashnath
    replied
    Rishi, my paid services are costing 2000 to 2500. Oil change, cleaning filter, brake oil top up etc. I checked the prices of these things in a shop nearby, thought i could do these at home for less than 900. And they dont do a good job either.

    Sorry for the newbie questions again, but
    How do i access the battery?
    How to tighten the chain?

    Leave a comment:


  • Ri$hi
    replied
    Originally posted by Kailashnath View Post
    It has been more than........Thanks in advance for any help you could provide...
    Before coming to a conclusion that the battery is dead, check for few things.
    - The battery needs to be topped up by distilled water once in a month.
    - Check the output of the battery by a voltmeter
    - if it is not up to the spec, charge it
    - cover the terminals with vaseline
    - make sure that the breather tube is properly routed and it is below the frame and doesn't touch any parts.

    Regarding the sprocket and chain

    - make sure You clean with diesel/ kerosene and wipe it with a rag
    - check the slackness. If the slackness is not up to the spec tighten it
    - if You are not able to achieve the recommended slackness only then it needs to be replaced or else it should be fine
    - also check if the sprockets are not worn out.
    - lube it with a chain lube (spray)
    BTW how much do they charge for the paid service?

    Leave a comment:


  • Kailashnath
    replied
    First post

    It has been more than two and a half years since I bought my Yamaha. Has run around 18k kms and very little problems, until now.
    • Battery incapable of button start for the past 3 months.
    • Headlights are glimmering in sync with my engine rpm (again may be due to battery)
    • Front shock absorbers kind of sticking when compressed. It goes down when I brake, stays compressed a few seconds before releasing.
    • The chain is getting loose and looks a bit rusty.

    Paid services are getting very costly. I thought I should start doing my own maintenance. I did try my hand at cleaning the spark plug, air filters, changing oil, tuning the carburetor mix and adjusting idling speeds etc. Thanks to detailed videos on youtube by yamahass125 (Bob)!!


    I want to change my battery and upgrade my headlights to HID. There was not much help on youtube of elsewhere on the net on the how-to. So my questions:
    • Amaron or exide? Any instructions that would help open up and change the dead battery.
    • The service manual which was linked in xBhp for gladiator is not showing anymore. Can someone point me to a recent link?
    • Is there any mechanic in Chennai who could do a DC conversion and HID installation?
    • Do I have to change the chain and/or sprocket?
    • Anything I could do to correct my shock absorbers?

    On a generic level is there a Yamaha website that lists spares compatible with Gladiator SS models? Thanks in advance for any help you could provide...

    Leave a comment:


  • harish_gkumar
    replied
    Originally posted by surendran View Post
    just remove the filter(foam) and wash it with petrol, let it dry , put a few drops of 2t oil (don't know exactly, experts advice needed here), fix it,
    To clean the foam filter try to use any solvents like kerosene and diesel..Never use petrol to clean them ,,Most svc guys n local mchnics use petrol..don't follow them.Petrol is highly chemically reactive substance that it will eat your foam..possible fire hazard and foam will degenerate and pores will become big which reduces filtering efficiency
    And for the oiling method u can use any reasonable method,this the tricky part..ie not less and not more
    Cleaning Part
    This is what I do
    1.Remove the filter inner and outer along with the cylinder that holds the foam ..After removing close the hole that goes into carburetor with some clean cloth ensure dirt will not enter at the time of maintenance
    2.Take kerosene or diesel in large bowl ..dip the filters one by one firstly the main filter ..squeeze them in the liquid ....we can see that dirt oozes out of the foam and changes the kerosene to black color..take the filter and dispose the kerosene..Now take some fresh kerosene and repeat the above..
    3.After the above squeeze hard to remove remaining kerosene..Never wring out..then blot it out in lots of news paper to remove the solvent in the tiny pores in the filter
    4.Then hang it in clothesline for half an hour under the sun to dry
    Oiling Part
    1.After the filter is completely dry dip them in bowl containing engine oil one by one.The manual suggests 20w 40 ..But I use 2t oil as it would be easy to saturate & squeeze out.Gear oil 90 also works fine..
    2.After dipping squeeze out the excess ..again never wring out.Wearing latex gloves will help.squeeze hard to remove.after maximum oil has gone out roll them in news papers to remove the excess oil..do not go until the news papers are coming dry..
    3.Clean the cylinder that holds the foam using carb cleaner spray..
    4.Wait for an half an hour..if you have time leave the filters over night to dry..
    5.Refit
    For oiling part some mechanics apply only few drops on the upper surface of the filter ..never do that..Oil is applied so that dust get trapped inside >for this we have to ensure that there are no dry spots and oil is spread evenly .Foam filter should be wet and not dripping wet...

    Leave a comment:


  • surendran
    replied
    Originally posted by harish_gkumar View Post
    How do we clean and oil foam air filter of glady?
    just remove the filter(foam) and wash it with petrol, let it dry , put a few drops of 2t oil (don't know exactly, experts advice needed here), fix it,

    Leave a comment:


  • harish_gkumar
    replied
    How do we clean and oil foam air filter of glady?

    Leave a comment:


  • Rakesh.M
    replied
    that's my Gladiator SS125..
    3yrs 8 months old, 23,982 kms on odometer.

    Leave a comment:


  • bbsrailfan
    replied
    Originally posted by surendran View Post
    I'll discuss this with some other mechanic and make a decision,
    is there any other way to stop the whistling sound??
    Can you record and upload a sample?
    If you are using a smartphone for recording, preferably use an app which can record in high-quality MP3/OGG

    Leave a comment:


  • surendran
    replied
    Originally posted by cmahajan View Post
    Adding oil to petrol is never a good idea in my opinion.
    Originally posted by Sumondatta View Post
    My god, you are applying petroil/ mist lubrication on a 4 stroke bike? are you mad, brother? Don't do it ever.

    If you add lubricant to fuel for 4 Stroke it can cause clogging in jet of carb. may be not all fuel and oil be atomized before enterring the cylinder.

    So, remember mist lubrication is only for 2 stroke bike. If this mechanic is in service center, he should be cut off.
    I'll discuss this with some other mechanic and make a decision,
    is there any other way to stop the whistling sound??

    Leave a comment:


  • Rakesh.M
    replied
    Originally posted by bbsrailfan View Post
    Zappers start at Rs2400 onwards.(with tube)
    Dunlop monsters cost 2000 (with tube)

    I'd advice against buying Monsters. Though the grip is excellent, even on wet roads, the tyres themselves arnt too reliable. My monsters are just 3 months old and they seem to have a strange wiggle. Initially I thought it was due to a bent wheel/rim but it was disgnosed to uneven wear at the tyres.
    Thanks a ton buddy!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Sumondatta
    replied
    Originally posted by surendran View Post
    hi guys I just changed to mobil1 10w40 for my gladdy, now its performing well, its smoother than before in high speeds,
    here the mechanic told me to add oil with petrol somewhat about 15 or 20ml per litre for a month to stop the whistling noise in idle, he also said that he had advised for many with such problem and there is no more noise in their bikes.., I'm going to try it
    My god, you are applying petroil/ mist lubrication on a 4 stroke bike? are you mad, brother? Don't do it ever.

    If you add lubricant to fuel for 4 Stroke it can cause clogging in jet of carb. may be not all fuel and oil be atomized before enterring the cylinder.

    So, remember mist lubrication is only for 2 stroke bike. If this mechanic is in service center, he should be cut off.

    Leave a comment:


  • cmahajan
    replied
    Originally posted by surendran View Post
    hi guys I just changed to mobil1 10w40 for my gladdy, now its performing well, its smoother than before in high speeds,
    here the mechanic told me to add oil with petrol somewhat about 15 or 20ml per litre for a month to stop the whistling noise in idle, he also said that he had advised for many with such problem and there is no more noise in their bikes.., I'm going to try it
    Adding oil to petrol is never a good idea in my opinion.

    Leave a comment:


  • surendran
    replied
    hi guys I just changed to mobil1 10w40 for my gladdy, now its performing well, its smoother than before in high speeds,
    here the mechanic told me to add oil with petrol somewhat about 15 or 20ml per litre for a month to stop the whistling noise in idle, he also said that he had advised for many with such problem and there is no more noise in their bikes.., I'm going to try it

    Leave a comment:

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