To clean the foam filter try to use any solvents like kerosene and diesel..Never use petrol to clean them ,,Most svc guys n local mchnics use petrol..don't follow them.Petrol is highly chemically reactive substance that it will eat your foam..possible fire hazard and foam will degenerate and pores will become big which reduces filtering efficiency
And for the oiling method u can use any reasonable method,this the tricky part..ie not less and not more
Cleaning Part
This is what I do
1.Remove the filter inner and outer along with the cylinder that holds the foam ..After removing close the hole that goes into carburetor with some clean cloth ensure dirt will not enter at the time of maintenance
2.Take kerosene or diesel in large bowl ..dip the filters one by one firstly the main filter ..squeeze them in the liquid ....we can see that dirt oozes out of the foam and changes the kerosene to black color..take the filter and dispose the kerosene..Now take some fresh kerosene and repeat the above..
3.After the above squeeze hard to remove remaining kerosene..Never wring out..then blot it out in lots of news paper to remove the solvent in the tiny pores in the filter
4.Then hang it in clothesline for half an hour under the sun to dry
Oiling Part
1.After the filter is completely dry dip them in bowl containing engine oil one by one.The manual suggests 20w 40 ..But I use 2t oil as it would be easy to saturate & squeeze out.Gear oil 90 also works fine..
2.After dipping squeeze out the excess ..again never wring out.Wearing latex gloves will help.squeeze hard to remove.after maximum oil has gone out roll them in news papers to remove the excess oil..do not go until the news papers are coming dry..
3.Clean the cylinder that holds the foam using carb cleaner spray..
4.Wait for an half an hour..if you have time leave the filters over night to dry..
5.Refit
For oiling part some mechanics apply only few drops on the upper surface of the filter ..never do that..Oil is applied so that dust get trapped inside >for this we have to ensure that there are no dry spots and oil is spread evenly .Foam filter should be wet and not dripping wet...

First post

It has been more than two and a half years since I bought my Yamaha. Has run around 18k kms and very little problems, until now.

• Battery incapable of button start for the past 3 months.
• Headlights are glimmering in sync with my engine rpm (again may be due to battery)
• Front shock absorbers kind of sticking when compressed. It goes down when I brake, stays compressed a few seconds before releasing.
• The chain is getting loose and looks a bit rusty.

Paid services are getting very costly. I thought I should start doing my own maintenance. I did try my hand at cleaning the spark plug, air filters, changing oil, tuning the carburetor mix and adjusting idling speeds etc. Thanks to detailed videos on youtube by yamahass125 (Bob)!!


I want to change my battery and upgrade my headlights to HID. There was not much help on youtube of elsewhere on the net on the how-to. So my questions:

• Amaron or exide? Any instructions that would help open up and change the dead battery.
• The service manual which was linked in xBhp for gladiator is not showing anymore. Can someone point me to a recent link?
• Is there any mechanic in Chennai who could do a DC conversion and HID installation?
• Do I have to change the chain and/or sprocket?
• Anything I could do to correct my shock absorbers?

On a generic level is there a Yamaha website that lists spares compatible with Gladiator SS models? Thanks in advance for any help you could provide...

Before coming to a conclusion that the battery is dead, check for few things.
- The battery needs to be topped up by distilled water once in a month.
- Check the output of the battery by a voltmeter
- if it is not up to the spec, charge it
- cover the terminals with vaseline
- make sure that the breather tube is properly routed and it is below the frame and doesn't touch any parts.

Regarding the sprocket and chain

- make sure You clean with diesel/ kerosene and wipe it with a rag
- check the slackness. If the slackness is not up to the spec tighten it
- if You are not able to achieve the recommended slackness only then it needs to be replaced or else it should be fine
- also check if the sprockets are not worn out.
- lube it with a chain lube (spray)
BTW how much do they charge for the paid service?

Rishi, my paid services are costing 2000 to 2500. Oil change, cleaning filter, brake oil top up etc. I checked the prices of these things in a shop nearby, thought i could do these at home for less than 900. And they dont do a good job either.

Sorry for the newbie questions again, but
How do i access the battery?
How to tighten the chain?

^^You have a PM

my gladdy also nearing two years old now,
my battery drained out a few months ago.., i topped it up but it completely went off, so i changed it to AMCO

Answers in bold.
No offence but you are being looted horribly. The things you listed out NEVER cost that much. Here in bangalore it costs me on 500-600 including oil bottle. Just change your service center ASAP. Once the warranty period is over change to a local mech whom you trust.

2000 to 2500 for gladi? Then think how much they ll charge for R1 or FZ1

can anybody of my friends suggest me to convert my gladiaror from A.C to D.C.
so after that i can install HID to my bike.
please help me friends

hi newindia_006, check you tube here

I have one doubt in my mind.. i am 6.2" tall with weight around 100kg will this bike able to pull me :P

means i dont want feeling of 100cc bike.. pls advice.

Kindly advice.

Any shop I can go to for DC conversion in Chennai?

I did clean the nodes with some sandpaper and applied some vaseline. Also filled d/w for the cells. Only marginal improvement in battery - able to button start once after heavy use.

Can I do any checks/corrections on the regulator assembly myself?

Assuming I would be getting a DC conversion done in the near future, should I go for a particular regulator assembly ? where can I get one in Chennai?

Am not sure if the regulator assembly is blown out. The usual symptoms are blown electricals (bulb etc) & battery not being charged.

Get it confirmed.

Sorry folks, I guess the more I drove (post national holiday), the better the battery is getting.

Guess it was just the distilled water, scrubbing of the contact points. I might delay changing battery/RR assembly for now.

I guess there is no one from Chennai who can help me with contacts for DC convertion. Any other thread/forum you can suggest ?