Already lubed, and I checked the wheel alignment it seems good to me. Anyways I will take my bike to (X*L) Tyre point near to me.

Checked the Handle bar nuts for correcting the vibration while braking and while crossing the bumps and potholes, it seems it was tightned properly. what else the cause for this new issue after service?

Replace it whenever you hear a ticking noise. Usually ticking noise (like a sewing machine) is caused by valve clearance issue or chain tensioner issue. Considering it is far easier to replace chain tensioner (costs barely 600 rupees) and doesn't need much labour effort, go for it first. If it doesn't solve the ticking noise issue, valve clerance is the culprit.

Do note - Slight ticking and manageable vibrations will always be there. Only go for the above when the noise is very noticeable.

Replace chain tensioner after what mileage? 50000 kms?

Hi guys,

My bike has done ~23,000km in 10 years but I recently started to notice tick-tick type noise through engine head. So, decided to check one by one 1. I checked the operation of chain tensioner, working good.

Removed valve cover for further investigation
2. Checked timing chain so check whether it is tight or not. It was tight.

3.So finally I decided to do valve clearance measurements
Inlet
0.16mm & 0.15mm (requires 0.13mm~0.19mm) OK

Exhaust
0.19 mm & 0.20mm (requires 0.24mm ~ 0.30)
Not Ok
So, I do the math and found that I need to choose thinner shims.

So, here I was little confused that how the hell valve clearance became tighter(usually it wear out so, need to loose).
So, I called the friend who was working in Ducati as Service engineer. He told me, Due to exhaust gas heat, the valve gets heated and the heat is transferred to the top part of the valve called steam And Shims are placed in between valve steam and fingers follower. Due to which shim size gets expanded over the period of time. Which makes the valve clearance tight. He also told me that, due to this problem manufacturers given Exhaust valve clearance is more than Inlet valve clearance.


Following are the conclusion of my observation after long time.
1. After shim replacement, the noise was not completely gone. But i was in town where I don't have option. But noise was very less, so i continue to ride.

2. After talking with few local Honda mechanic I found that Cbr250r don't have this shims issue, and only by replacing the chain tensioner will short out this issue. I know they are not completely right, still I have checked the tensioner thoroughly and found no issue with tensioner.
3. After riding the bike city traffic found loss of power and engine sound is Lil louder, even engine rpm climbing to 1800-1900rpm from 1600rpm every time I start it (even engine is hot).
4. So figured out to replace the chain tensioner and see, after replacement all the above niggles gone and engine sound become smooth and rpm was settle at 1400rpm instantly. Rode it few kms and found bike performing really good.


So, to conclude please change the chain tensioner as a preventive maintenance. As it is the weakest member from engine assembly (herd from most of local Honda mechanics) to avoid this kind of issues.

Also do share your experiences about parts need to replace as preventive maintenance.

Tightly adjusted sprocket can cause vibrations. A chain sprocket doesn't have a run-in time, it's smooth from the word go. Re-adjust the slack to the correct mm and lube the chain and make sure the tire is properly aligned. A misaligned tire can cause vibrations and drive train stress.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

Replaced Spark Plug to Honda Recommended (Cost 498+ Taxes) and Fuel filter yesterday.... (also, Chain Sprocket, both disc pads and hand grips replaced)

After the service I feel while braking I feel some up and down movement in Handle bar, need to check...

And what is the run-in time or settling time for new chain sprocket, because feeling more vibrations on foot-pegs ?

Please go for 2017 model. Remember, not just the bike condition, you'll have to find a buyer for it too. Plastic parts of 2011 and 12 model CBRs are not available in most SVC.

The shim noises weren't isolated to a particular year, it mostly came down to wear and tear and maintenance. For some it was longer, for some it was sooner, eventually for them to hear a shim noise, but for the most part, the shims were not at all a trouble. Secondly, the the 2011 models had imported ignition lockset and hence their prices were out of the roof and they also gave up pretty soon, so yes that's one to keep in mind. Said and done, all the important markers ticked and found satisfactory, it's a good choice.

Cheers!
VJ

I would suggest stick to the one that is newer and better. With spares being in demand and generalized service not upto mark, the newer the model, the mechanically sound, the better it is. The 2011 is a good choice considering the kms driven. You can bargain for both depending on the condition of the tires, sprockets etc which are mandatory consumables post purchase. The 2011's consumables are higher when compared to the 2011 which were prone to lockset failures, those lockset costed upwards of 10k IIRC whereas the later ones were in and around 3 to 4k so lots of little things to consider, but do make a choice on one that's mechanically sound.

Hey hawx, I do think you should go for 2011 model, but asking price is high unless bike in very good condition and zero maintenance required.

2017 model looks fresh when you compare with 2011 and has no issue of Ignition Lock and Shim noise. Please confirm ( B7ACKTHORN )

In Pune
2011 model cost ~50-55k,

​​​​2017 model cost ~80k.


Overall bike is really good in terms of reliability and comfort, mine is 2012 Second owner since 2019.

Folks, long time lurker here. I am looking for stop gap replacement for RE STD 350 1980 make. I have shortlisted the CBR-250R.

I am in due process to purchase a used CBR250R. I have shortlisted two vehicles. 2017 make C-ABS done 60k kms(asking price 1Lac) and 2011 make C-ABS done 33k kms(asking price 70k).

Have test ridden both and both seem to be mechanically sound. However will take a longer ride before finalizing the deal.

I do not want to spend much on bike as of now (max budget 80k not beyond) and inclined towards the 2011 model as I can use the 30k saved in maintenance of the bike.

What are your opinions about the same?

Thanks in advance.

The CBR came with Cotinental Slippigos and MRF Zapper series from the factory. The Continental were the mediocre of the lot, they crack soon, give away over gravel easily. Then came the MRF Zappers ( mine came with Zappers from factory). The Zappers had decent wet grip, but once they were warmed up and up to temperature, they complemented the bike's handling very, very well. Grip, overall rounded, were good enough, both on wet and dry and these are extremely cost effective when compared to Apollo and the likes, though they being radial and this being bias ply, for city and touring, the Zappers are very wise choice.

Cheers!
VJ

I recently got the MRF Zappers in stock size - Zapper FY (front) and Zapper S1 (rear), for Rs 5750 including fitting charges. I have ridden a little above 400 kms but my experience so far has been very good. I had the MRF Masseters before this, in stock size and the Zappers feel very similar to the Masseters for regular commutes and sport touring. Grip is good and inspires confidence around corners. Straight line stability under hard braking is also commendable.



This is a picture of the MRF Zappers after 250 kms.

Suggestion needed for Tyres

Previously installed Apollo Alpha H1 has completed 20k kms & new set of tyres r to be installed. CBR has run 78,500 kms.
Although I m happy with Apollo's performance but they were not stock size. So bike's ave dropped to 34-35 from 37-39 on highways. Also felt bike feels little bit heavier while turning. But except these, tyres performed very well- very few punctures, awesome grip on dry-wet surface, awesome in cornering.
But this time I want to use stock tyres. Problem is that stock size tyres have limited options. So want suggestions for tyres.

1 lakh is good enough KMs to warrant for a clutch housing replacement. Clutch bell, clutch and pressure plate, along with clutch spring replacement is the best bet for proper power delivery.

Cheers!
VJ