I have not used the website myself, so i cannot vouch for it sorry. 4500 for ecu seems cheap, how much is the OEM Honda ECU?

SVC is quoting lockset around 12k.
I saw this site called eauto, they were selling the ECU for 4.5k... I am a little sceptical to go ahead... But any review about the website?

You have to go to the junk yard and search for crashed CBRs who may have the parts you need. It is risky, best if you know a good mechanic who has contacts in the local scrap yards. Some people sell their used ECUs, but its a gamble there too.

How much is the svc quoting for a new ecu and lockset?

Good to hear.
I own the 2011 model, owned it since 2012. Covered many miles. Dashboard lights don.t work and lockset has given me lot of problems. But SVC was kind enough to work something out by repairing it always.
Recently my ECU got busted due to short circuit in lockset... any ideas where i can get a new ECU and lockset at lower prices than SVC?

Spare prices have gone up. I have decided to buy some parts now incase of part availablity issues later. The honda SVC says hmsi will order the parts from Thailand if it's not available in India. The prices will be higher too.

Air filters Fuel filters
Oil filters
Switches
Steering stem
Radiator fan motor
O2 sensor with wire
RR unit
Stator Coil
Chain Sprocket
TIming chain plus guides
Combination switches
Spark plug
brake lever
Gear lever with linkage
RHS crank case cover , gasket (comes with mechanical seal installed)
Front brake master cylinder kit
Visor
Head gasket


The oil filter gasket is now 40 bucks. It was 15 in 2017 i think. Using honda oil filter even though prices are up because dont want to change the thing before 12000 kms. FZ oil filter users please report issues if any. I didn't use FZs filter because of physical differences in design. More pleats means more filtration means less oil flow. Already screwed one CCT due to low engine oil level, don't want to cook anything else. Also FZ oil filter change recommendation is 3500 kms. Honda suits lazy people more.

This year Coolant hose on left developed a slow leak. Changed the hose. 63 for hose. 500 for searching for the hose in honda svcs. Next month, smelled coolant near the vehicle, checked the bike and found white marks on the front mudguard, the radiator near the cap, and the clutch case. Already kept the radiator cap in stock. So changed that. 9 year life isn't bad for coolant hoses and rad cap i think. In CBR 250 two big radiator hoses are of prime importance. Buy them. The other two tiny ones are overflows. One to reservoir and one from reservoir. Have to purchase thermostat valve, these fail and screw up engine easily.

Fuel tank is rust free till now. Due to habit of keeping 2-3 bars of fuel. And Abro.


The lockset set is too expensive, my being a 2012 model. The internet shows that ordinary aftermarket locksets won't work with the 2012 ignition switch because of the extra pink wire present in original ignition switch, which the aftermarkets don't have. This pink wire functions as an anti Hotwire system to prevent bike theft. This pink wire goes to the ECU and if it does not have ~9 volts, your fuel pump will not prime/engine won't fire up. Rest of the electricals work. How does it get 9v under normal circumstances? There is a zener diode connected to the pink wire which reduces the 12 volts to 9v. If the diode fails your bike won't start up. Guys who own old Hondas in the US have had same issues with the ignition switch failing and the aftermarkets dont work. Later models of CBR 250 have just two wires, black n red i believe. No issues with aftermarket ignition switches for those.


Bike has done 30,000 kms on second set of chain sprocket (bought from honda). Adjusted once.

Oil leaks slightly from head cover gasket and oil filter area. I have ceased caring.

One thing i learned is to start the bike every day. Idle for a minute. It's made a difference to the way the engine sounds. It sounds like new. Eager. Shims haven't been changed yet. No shim noise. I use abro injector cleaner in half the recommended quantity every tank full. Oil changed at every 4-6k kms. Console light still works. Switches still work. Lubing with gear oil or wd 40. Front mudguard replaced due to crack at mounting bracket getting larger.
Radiator never cleaned, still carrying dirt and grime from 2012. Engine never overheated, still three bars in summer or rain. Ambient temp not crossed 40C though. Radiator fan, relay still works. Stator n rr are hopefully good, alternator output is 14.4v on idle. Stock electricals. Amaron stopped CBR size battery so buy a spare if yours is 3y old. Tata green battery isn't good as per cb350 ownership reports. Sudden failure. Bike getting stranded.

Despite my foolishness of riding the bike in chennai floods in 2015 till radiator neck height, didn't develop any electrical problems till now. Honda has my gratitude.

I had thought of selling my bike earlier due to part shortage but new exciting bikes aren't less than 3 lakhs. So i bought myself a 30k run passion plus whose engine is even cleaner than my cbr engine, to divide the running. EV? No thanks. Most are useless (for me) or expensive or both. I advise other owners to stock up on parts. You won't regret it.

Oh, got it.

​​​​​​THis noise is coming under normal braking conditions (ABS motor does not work in normal braking), now if the ABS motor does not working then how could it possibly make sound. Problem is else where in the braking system not in ABS unit.

Suggestions:- Do check brake pads, rotor, sensor, House and cables are in correct position (just remove everything and reinstall. Do check brake Hose and other cables are routed correctly ).

Haven't tried this yet. But the ABS system itself is working fine. My braking feels no different. It's just the noise.

Selling my cbr250r Powertronic ecu that was bought in 18k. Selling it in 10k. Reason for selling- I have upgraded to R3.


"SOLD"

Hey rahulpillai , Is this sounds or issues exist after removing the ABS motor Fuse. If it doesn't then it's time keep the fuse aside and use the bike like non-ABS one.

Hi everyone. I posted a while ago about a mechanical whirring noise coming from the ABS sensor. It happens when the bike gets going from a halt and when the rear wheel hits bumps. Originally the Honda service centre mechanic had told me that there must be some problem with the bearings within the ABS system but since the braking is working fine it should be okay. I took it to another mechanic recently and he told me that the ABS plate was a little bent and that he tried to fix it. The issue persists, though. I'm in Chennai and was hoping to get recommendations of good mechanics who can solve the issue. Any suggestions?

I have sent you a DM with a contact person who can get you the O ring / gasket which sits right below that pipe. I had the same issue as the seal had gotten hard over 10 yrs and coolant had started to leak. The seals come pretty cheap. Costed me just 200 from the same contact I've shared the number of.

Cheers

Hi RoadRanger , first check if coolant leak or just normal water after washing. if it's leak there is strong possibility it's from Radiator, because pressure wash can damage aluminium radiator easily.
if you are sure that it's from that tube itself, then order parts from Honda spare parts dealership and relax for 22-30days depending upon your location. This is the only way to source parts nowadays.

UPDATE - Took a city ride of 150 kms round trip today after draining the fuel completely and filling it fresh. Got an economy of 32 kmpl. Thanks, everyone for your time to help me out on this.