What I have experienced (and observed with many others too) is a drop in performance as well as fuel efficiency after the 1st service. Dunno exactly what the sc guys do to bugger up the factory tune, but if you look at their deviation from the company recommendation for idle rpm as an example, they are probably applying their own gyan and setting it differently from company spec.

Hmm, i don't remember the exact technical details so i can't be very specific but IIRC the most damage was to parts like the con-rod bearings and other moving parts. Note, that this information has come from very experienced technicians, so that's the only reason i'm saying it without remembering the nitty-gritties. Something like the engine is actually struggling to run and is on the verge of stalling, but then keeps going at the last possible moment. Sorry, that's a very bad explanation and i don't have the time to chk the web for more details, so let's leave aside that i've said it for a moment and stick to the company spec of 1400100 rpm. Btw, the 100 doesn't mean that you have a choice of setting it to either 1300 or 1500 rpm. what is means is that 100 in either direction from 1400 is the acceptable variation for normal operating conditions. for example, if you set it to 1400 last week and it's now running at 1310rpm, then you don't have re tune it. but if it falls to 1280rpm, then you should retune it to 1400rpm.

I know what glazing is , i just didnt put it in good words.
what i meant was that riding at Constant Rpm should be avoided . engine should be given adequate loading so the rings and Cylinder head get seated properly . in a new engine the bore has Cross-hatched surface that are like valleys and peaks . with a good run-in the rings are supposed to Flatten the peaks while keeping the valleys so Oil can stick there .If the break-in is not performed correctly, the peaks can remain sharp allowing excessive oil retention in the valleys or the peaks may roll over into the valleys (glazing) that wont let a oil film form between rings and bore .

To soft or too-hard a run-in both are not good .Redlining on our air-cooled engines isnt good since they dont have the heat management of LC ones .
see this diagram

Yup'll keep a check on the mileage.......
"
"What I have experienced (and observed with many others too) is a drop in performance as well as fuel efficiency after the 1st service. Dunno exactly what the sc guys do to bugger up the factory tune, but if you look at their deviation from the company recommendation for idle rpm as an example, they are probably applying their own gyan and setting it differently from company spec."


DUDe......i also experianced the same thing.........i experianced a drop in performance......dont know why??

I guess they adjusted the carb settings for more mileage....and they do not follow company norms of setting the rpm at ~1400 rpm.....they have set my rpm to 1k exact........

apart from the item in bold above (another typo? ) that's about a perfect explanation dude. it's just the typo about piston glazing that had me bothered. imagine if a noob goes to his mech and says his pistons are glazed. that dude will rip him off for all he's worth when he figures out the noob knows nothing.

i'd like to add that the real reason that riding at constant rpms isn't advised is because unless the piston is loaded properly - alternating between accelerating and deceleration with engine braking - the rings remain in a contracted state and don't make sufficient contact with the bore. it's only under loaded conditions that the rings expand enough. so in a sense, motoman's technique makes perfect sense except of course, you have to consider the differences between foreign superbikes and the 0.2-litre indian mopeds.

nice diagram. reminds me of my college days when the examiners expected diagrams with each answer or you wouldn't get full marks !

next time you go there, insist that they follow procedure.

in my case, when i first got my fi, i complained about the tappet noise, not knowing at the time that it is an rtr characteristic/flaw. what the idiots did was to slow down the idle so that the tappet noise too would reduce at idle. this in spite of being told in the svc manual that the idle screw is not to be touched without connecting the pc cable and software.

btw, is the company spec for idle rpm the same for the 180 as the 160s?

sad man.....tvs guys use their own heads instead of using proper equipments...
also 1 more problem i encountered 2day.......morning....the red light on the speedo is blinking when i start the bike......it turns off after blinking for some time.......but y is that happening.....??????

RTFM!

could it be the service indicator telling you it's time for a service? not sure of the 180's console

p.s. @renny dude, you try the 180 yet?

yup dude...its the service indicator telling me to service.......but i just got my bike from 1st service 2-3 days bak...

Yeah that is what i feared and was keeping a close watch on those guys fiddling with the carb. He only touched the idle screw and as my bike was under-idling it was back to normal at close to 1.5k rpm. The stalling of the bike at low speeds has stopped. But after the servicing the tappet noise has gone up and gets irritating while riding at slow speeds.The only way to get rid of them is to accelerate and hear the glorious induction and exhaust note!!

The svc guy(seemed quite experienced and helpful) said that tappets should be adjusted only when the bike's parts have been properly set. He assured me to look after em after 3k-4k kms. Or should i blame TVS TRU4 engine oil.Earlier i was using Elf Moto4 Gold, has been using it in my Victor for quite a period of time and it's a superb oil.

I got the red light at 600kms, just before the 1st service.Ask those guys to reset it.Or try this ..Press the Two buttons "Set" and "Mode" simultaneously for some 25-30secs.It may reset.But then you consult the mechanic, i am not so sure about the method.

wrong thread,,, sorry guys

the service indicator works according to km covered, not days. the method to reset it is as chicane said. in my case it takes around 10 seconds. only prob is the buttons are pretty hard to press and harder so when you're pressing both of em. use one finger from each hand.

so you're saying you watched them the whole time and the only thing they changed is the idle setting? since the tappets are only to be set when the engine is cold, plus being a ***** to set, these guys usually don't fiddle with them. then what else could cause the drop in perf? try changing the engine oil back to elf if you can bear the loss, and see if that restores it back. wierd shit.

Does any one saw/got the yellow rtr 180 ?

Nice ride u got there man

ok..will try that and let u guys know.....abt the service bulb indicator....
and 1 thing more 2day i myself adjusted the idling rpm to arnd 1300-1400 rpm from 1000rpm.....it was easy...

Service idicator first flashes at 500-750kms adn then comes up 3000kms after every reset.

Its a preprogrammed thing. Its not connected to any sensor's!

yup pressing both buttons simultaneously will make the service indicator not to blink