Nothing to worry.

Regarding the noise,sibun always told me that a overhauled engine will require re-adjustment of tappets after few kms. If you had adjusted the tappets earlier and then re-fit the engine then the setting will be lost.
Re-tighten the main nuts if needed before adjusting the tappets. Main nuts will loosen as the head gasket and bore gasket gets compressed during run-in/few initial kms.

To check the timing chain- Rev the engine slightly and when the throttle is left if you hear a krrr noise then it is the timing chain for sure.

I don't have any idea about the exhaust gasket.

Yes i adjusted tappets again after second opening and i kept tight drag instead of slight drag.

Tighten the main nuts. They are tight.

Tried your method, no krrr noise. Its normal.

Before overhauling, on cold start the engine noise was superb smooth. That time i was running Gulf FS 10w30 and hero cam chain was at 11k.

Today on cold start i heard noise from cam chain, but that gone after few seconds.
The only problem is, i'm missing that smooth sound that was before. May be its because of non-perfect AFR i'm running.
If i'm tuning it ideal, i'm getting about 1/2 ~ 1/4 turn out but that is making mixture too rich and spark plug is fooling.
Now i've kept at 1 turn out and spark plug color is good and got 68 kpl mileage(at hero oil).
Bike even shuts down on heat if i turn ideal screw completely out. Thats indicates mixture is not correct.
Have covered 200 kms only, still need to go 800 kms more before i can tune.

Once incident happened to me was- When i start the engine of second time fitting, i heard the noise like phus phus phus, something like gas was leaking. I suddenly stopped the engine, and kicked to check its compression and it was hard as it should be. Again heard that noise after starting but that become normal after few seconds of run in. I tried to know where it was coming but i couldn't, to me it was coming from cylinder (i lubricated everything before fitting). Till now it didn't happened afterwards.

Update:
I can heard the tappets sound while sitting on the bike, previously i can't (before overhaul). Currently i kept the tappets are like if u insert gauge it will not get inside (checked now again). It go inside if i push the rocker up. So there is very less gap.
Before overhauling, the gauge was getting inside normally, also this time when i opened engine for overhaul, i found a bit grove on a rocker arm mating surface with a cam lobes. So i got that grind on lathe (grinded on wheel). So if i was not hearing sound before, then why now?! I shouldn't be hearing now because 1) gap is lesser than before 2) rocker arm mating surface is plain now.

Also, i installed exhaust gasket and engine sound is changed.... really changed!!

Update 2:
The sound is actually increases after heating up. And its continuous, and thats indicates bad cam chain. After all, if tappets are fine then whats left?? nothing, except cam chain!! I am gonna replace this tomorrow coz on Sunday i'm going another town 135 kms for my exam.

@PAUL- NOTHING TO WORRY.
500 ml oil is more than enough for this horizontal engine. Regarding that engine noise then it is because of the grinding of the rocker arms mating surface. If you notice then then the rocker arm lobes are convex in shape and after you have grinded them, they would have become slighly flat. So in effect more part is rubbing on camshaft and thus noise. Change the rocker arm and the sound will be stopped. Else run the engine for few kms and sound will stop.

A leaking silencer gasket will cause phus-phus sound which will be audible when exhaust stroke is made.
Regarding that sound on start-up then it is not tappet or cam chain but it is of rocker arm. During start up oil is not pumped and thus the noise is there and now after some time oil will be primed and noise will go. Nothing to worry, as engine builds up km, that problem will solve.

regarding that silencer gasket then it is fit by plain surface toward head and the punched surface towards silencer.

The air mixture screw set it at 0.75 turns out from fully closed position and tune the idle such that idle doesn't move up and down. Follow this method till 1000 km. Then after tune the engine by raising the rpm.

Regarding the tappet adjustment on this engine then adjust it by different process. Do not use feeler gauge and adjust it by this way:-
1. There should be no vertical play in tappets.
2. The tappets must have side plays in them.

i.e keep as much side play in rockers as possible but keep no vertical play. Run this setting and report back.

Use the veedol oil for some more kilometers and then report back.

my replies in bold.

ok, if the shape are perfect, then nothing to worry, let the engine run for some km as 200 km is nothing for hero engine.

regarding veedol, then let me tell you all go for advertisments and brand name, but i go for actual performance. I have always seen that veedol oils are much better than other oils and cost also less.

Also i would like to add that as i ahve bought my cousin brother a stunner, both my brother and my maternal uncle complained of cam noise at high rpm in stunner, which is like a characterstic of that engine but feels tiring on long rides. So what i did was this time i changed to this oil VEEDOL take off 4t 20W 40 and the noise vanished.

Also you will see that this oil has every specifications starting from oil oxidation to sludge control to ball rust test to cam wear. No other oil mentions that. So i always recommend this oil rather than other oils.

A horizontal head position engine has natural oil flow and does not require the pump pressure ...so do not worry of oil of only 500 ml ...good that you didn't press your luck too much..
When ever you try to set the Valve Clearance (tappet adjustment) ensure that the piston is at TDC on COMPRESSION STROKE...you can ascertain this by turning engine once to TDC mark on rotor, and checking the valve clearance, and again turning the engine to TDC and repeating the check...On one such rotation the Gap will be maximum, which is at the Compression stroke....
Hope this helps.

When i first started my engine after overhaul, the sound was smooth only tappets sound was there i've checked and i'm 100% sure.

Next time when i re-fitted, again the noise was like before. But after driving for few kms, when i reached home, i realized some change in sound.
I re-adjusted tappets, open the cam sprocket cover two times to confirm if cam chain is not loose.

But still the sound was there. And its normal on cold start, but increasing after heating (i realized this today)
I didn't need to take my ear nearer to that, i can hear while sitting in bike.
As my mechanic has also tried this Rolon chain many times, and according to his experience its started creating noise. He was having two packs same pack as mine (i matched).
he was not too dumb even.

So re-viewing this all, i'm most likely in thought that he is correct.

Sir brought back an old memory, when me and Aneesh were messing with my ZMA, and we called you for instructions, and you gave us the same instruction and instead of gap you said the rocker arms will be dancing, thinking I'd get a better understanding but we took it too literally. At the time we didnt have the correct size allen key for opening the crank window, so we removed sp. put bike in final gear and was rotating the rear wheel(Aneesh was the one doing all the rotating.) and it went like this.

Aneesh with all his strenght would turn the wheel and when it reaches TDC mark I'd say stop, and he'd ask me "Is it dancing?" and I'd say "Nope its not moving, try again" we repeated that in cycles till we finally got restless and pulled out the adjustment bolt from the rocker arm and came to understand that you were referring to the freeplay at TDC. Good old days

Yes it was a fault from my side..I presumed that you are used to engines and knew about Valve clearance adjustments, and only needed a little guidance...Luckily Sarin was around to help you out...

Today i installed DIAMOND ACCURO cam chain.....yes suggested by Sibun




And after setup, now bike is feeling smoother, and yes noise is gone. No noise after heating whereas, previous chain was noisy after heating.

Click on the image.

Here left one is DIAMOND & right is one old HERO cam chain. Why they both are of same height? Don't one should be longer?

Also want to thank mod sunilg who agreed to my request for changing the thread title.

The old chain on the right seems to be a little stretched. So your mechanic was correct,I am still at a loss at how you got a defective/fake rolon chain.
Genuineness of non OE parts can not be guaranteed.
It is taking more time to find correct parts than the time take to overhaul itself. I must say that Sibun is very lucky to have a honest retailer friend. I just cannot describe the amount of fake/second quality parts floating in market. One must be real careful and befriend a neighbor hood retailer/mechanic to source you genuine parts or go to the individual parts authorized dealer which is time consuming.
Few distributors don't sell parts in few numbers or are not interested in dealing with the end-user and there starts the problem. Fortunately my mechanic(2 wheeler)directed me to a retailer who sells genuine parts and even takes orders for unavailable/special parts.

OT
Recently my mechanic(4wheeler) helped TATA to bust a chain of retailers selling duplicate stuff in original packing. They purchase original packings from service centers and then put duplicate stuff and market it. Last time I purchased an air-filter whose packing mentioned the date of mfg and packing as Feb,2013 but the filter had the mfd as sep,2013. He put the old part in new packing as the price of that price had increased from Rs.210 to Rs.314 in Feb,2013.

The new HERO branded oil 10w30 , TideWater make, mentions only JASO MA & 10w30 SJ on the labels and performance guaranteed by HERO ( no longer honda ) or any technical collaborations with japanaese companies like that with nippon oils as was earlier . Bottle plastic material is thinner than before but same 900ml .



Am such a sucker for cheap mineral oils that I got 10 bottles of it - what to do , they costed me Rs 1650 only .

If u want, sell those to any spare shop. Ask them if they want any. And give them in a bit loss/profit.

Give me and paul a few bottles,we will use it as running-in oil. Just kidding.
But seriously how did it even get in your mind to buy 10 bottles ? The day my folks at home see me doing like you, I will be kicked out of the home then and there.
Use it for 1500 kms and then replace it,your engine will always thank you.

LOL , u are welcome to come n pick up as much as u want . Well I buy single bottles only when the oil is unknown to me , for testing it . Else I'll buy in bulk when I get a good deal . Oil doesn't go bad in 10 years , while I'm quite sure we'll be buying the same oil for Rs 400 a bottle in another 5 years . Yes , I don't mind draining it in 1500kms ... it still works out cheaper other than the benefit to the motor . For Rs 165 a bottle , I'd have gotten another 10 if I was carrying that much cash yesterday . Weatherman says it's going to be a particularly toasty summer this year . Now I need a good deal like this for some 20w40 !