@ paul nice work mate & thanks for sharing .

@ shoeb : Nothing . Content deleted as it is reached to you

anything is fine till its a direct link thanks in advance..

Anyway,it is now almost three hours since I started uploading and I am facing some difficulty due to my crappy internet.
Rest assured,you will get it.
I may PM the links to all the members of Splendor thread including CBF,PSR ji,sarbanoxley,blogging wheels and others who have actively participated or encouraged this thread.

P.S- I don't think parts catalogs are copyrighted material unlike shop manuals but still.......

Thank you for the links..

WOW !! guys I just got all your messages and sniff of this just today when I could visit here .... let me read all the books out now . Great thanks to OP for this in advance .

To-day I bought from the Local market a Spark Plug Cap RED in color, and WITHOUT RESISTOR.....the Red outer seems to be silicone/plastic, and the inside contains a black moulded piece which holds the plug fix sockect and brass screw projection for the cable to screw on to..have fixed it to my ZMA and seems to be working ok...Only after subjecting it to long drives and heat , and also after spraying water on it will I know it's quality....

Wow good to see PSR ji's experiment posted in splendor thread . This thread is really knowledge sharing .

I am a kid crawling here .....,among Adults who are kind to teach me...

Since my (Rs 91) OE Splendor+ plug cap did not survive 2 monsoons , even if these cheap aftermarket ones does not do well wet - I would not hold it against them . Best would be mod it a bit in some way to ensure rainwater doesn't enter the junctions between cable and cap . If this one is silicone rubber and a bit pliable , maybe we can place a wire-spring clamp ( like the ones on the rubber fuel hose ) on the groove there so that it fits tight on the plug cable and doesn't let in water ever ?

But why is it only your's that shows the problem ? I (or we) never had any problem related to water ingress in the original plug cap. Maybe yours wasn't tight enough right from the factory which caused all this trouble ?
The ultimate solution seems to be in using a original plug cap and a non-resistor plug.

To confirm the effect of the resistor plug & cap, when the discussion was going on -
I had installed my old resistor plug(and cap),tuned the carburetor accordingly and run for 10-20 kms then replaced it with the Mico U4A with the carb untouched , And guess what ! The bike was running excessively lean.
To confirm it I ride it like that for 6kms(to burn of any carbon deposits) and see no difference. It was still running lean and when the throttle was opened I could feel hesitation and then the rpm would increase.(By listening very carefully,I could hear two distinct hesitation noise before increase in actual RPM)
Re-tuning has brought it back to ideal AFR.

I also wanted to post my review of using diesel engine oil since long time.I feel that oils do take a longer time to produce a "real" effect than it takes to produce the psychological effect of using a new oil. This is the very reason I refrained myself from quickly jumping in and posting my review so that I can overcome my own doubts and feeling about this oil before coming to reasonable conclusion.
Check the engine oil thread.
Especially the gears,the already smooth gears seem even smoother now. Maybe because the 4T oil was a compromise and gears weren't getting the lubrication it deserved.
Those who use their toes to shift gears can make out this difference more easily.
IMO toes give more feedback than heels.
I am still apprehensive of what the extra detergents could do to a petrol engine.It can only be confirmed in the long run.

Please comment.

BTW,If everything goes on well then I have another little surprise(maybe even two) for all of you.

I dunno , but once my confidence is shaken on something I remain forever wary of it ... am sure that the oe part i have now would go bad on me again , as circumstances remain same .

Extra detergents is of no consequence to the engine .. if not of benefit . ZDDP levels nearing or exceding that of the original oil spec (API-SJ) is good for borderline lubrication . Base weight of 15w40 is very near to honda's original oil specification for our engine ( it was 10w40 then ) . i.e - if the clutch lives up to it just fine and there is no slip you can keep on this oil type forever .
The gulf synth 10w30 I am running now is about 30% smoother than the HeroHonda 10w30 and that smoothness is still there now 600kms on (which would have gone off with the herohonda oil by now) . The oil keeps it's kool in summer noon 30kms+ straight run at 60+ speed with a 60 kg pillion , which I have tested myself and is more than I expected . Fuel mileage is unchanged at 60-70 kmpl . Overall a better oil for Rs 300 with less defects of the 10w30 grade than the standard oils . Next I'll try some 15w40 (diesel oils) like u .

The RED spark plug cap outer, is a soft and pliable one. I had fixed it to my ZMA plug with Rubber sealing cups at both ends and fixed the cups to the plug cap with rubber based adhesive(Dendrite)....



Detergent in the oil is supposed to be good for the engine in that it keeps all the moving parts clean...downside is , in old engines,it might clean off the deposits on oil seals and spoil their sealing and lead to oil leaks.....My ZMA which is 6 years and 28K+ Kms old, has no such issues and I find that the oil is still good after 800+ Kms ....Another argument aginst the detergents is that it washes away the ZDDP or any other additive from sticking on to the moving parts at higher RPMs and thus leads to problems.....I guess the warning applies to the older Diesel oils which had very high levels of detergents, while the modern ones have just adequate levels....
On the contrary to warnings, the TBN which gives much better stability to the oil and the working environment inside the engine, is high at 9.5~10.5 in Diesel oils which is good for the engine...

What an idea Sir'ji !

I always drain engine oil in a clean container before disposing them for inspection. (I am stupid )
Last time when I drained Shell AX7 very hot, I found few soft particles the size of fine sand grain which stuck to the bottom of the container.
What could it be ? I don't think it is sludge,or is it ?
I always drain my engine oil hot, until almost every possible drop comes out by tilting the bike 2-3 times.If you see my pictures of my clutch replacement then you will get an idea of how clean the engine is.

I follow this procedure on every thing that needs oil replacement.

My dear friends,

After driving for 150 km after overhaul i checked for oil level and found its too low. I searched for 300~400ml of oil but couldn't get anywhere. I then went to one mechanic he was ready to fill required amount of oil. He came with plier and (obviously) one dirty cloth to check the oil level. He opened the dip stick and as soon he going to touch with his dirty cloth i stopped him, and i cleaned with my own cleaned cloth he said, 'oh saff kapre se poch rahe ho' my bike was shining, then i said, my engine is much more cleaner than my bike from outside and he checked the oil level and said it will take more 500ml of oil. And told me to enter my bike into his garage.
He didn't tightened the dip stick coz he was going to fill the required amount of oil. He also teach me one thing to how to check oil with finger tip lol!
I entered my bike into garage, he asked what is the last time u changed the engine oil?
Me: I've re-build my engine, and during the work oil accidentally fallen down. Therefore the oil level is low.
I have driven for only 150 kms, and after driving for more 150 kms i am going to change this oil.
He: Then don't re-fill it if u are going to change after 150, if i fill it, then u must drive for at least 500 kms before next change.
Me: No! No!, i'm not going to drive for more 500 kms at all.
He: Then its better u replace the oil completely.
Me: okay

I then took out my bike and went 6 kms to get new bottle of engine oil and i bought Veedol Take off 4T Plus 20w40 (API SM & JASO MA2) suggested by Sibun bhai.



The MRP was Rs.274 and got for Rs.250. Its 1 lt.
When coming to home, i was driving slow at 20~30 kph, and engine with off at down because of low amount of oil. Engine was heating a lot. I was risking my engine.
and when i reached home, i shocked to see one thing!! guess what??

The dip stick which mechanic didn't tightened was still like that. I also forgot about that because i didn't opened it and i was standing at left of my bike. and i driven like that.
OMG, this was another big shock to me. I thought my block is surely gone now, because the chamber was full of oil outside. The oil went up to the magnet side, and was dripping from there. Even it went to up to silencer and rear rim spokes. That was holy f***!! I didn't feel anything in my foot because of wearing shoes.

I then drain my oil and found this much only



I'm worried with this level! Do i really need to worry?? Do i've hurt my engine??

After pouring Veedol engine oil tone is changed.
After driving the difference i found comparing with Hero oil is that-
1) Engine is smooth and revving a lot better than Hero.
2) Gear is smoother than before,
3) Vibration is also reduced.

but, i was hearing some sound from my head. Tappet sound is there that is normal, but along with tappets one more noise is there, but i couldn't figure out from where its coming. To me its like coming from cam chain, which is Rolon but when checked its tight enough. My mechanic told me before not to use Rolon, it will create noise, he tested before, he also shown me 2 packs of Rolon chain he have from 6 months and not using it. Those pack were same as mine. Before fitting i got that checked by two local spare shops. And they both told me yes its 100% original. Therefore without listening to my mechanic i fitted it.
The noise was not there when i started my bike for first time. but noise appeared when i opened and fitted for second time.
Its tight enough. But dont know what kind of sound is that. Maybe my mech is correct.
What do you guys suggest me to do now? I couldn't figure out! Tappets are perfectly set. No problem!


Also what to know how to install this exhaust gasket.


I bought this for the first time, and i don't know how to install this because its running without this gasket.
on one side its plain and on other is a bit round. which part of it will be on the head side or exhaust side???

@Paul
Judging by the mark on the bottle you had around 500ml oil left, in the block, I would'nt worry much judging by the small distance you covered, cause I remember reading in a Fiero modding thread that the ENGINE actually requires around 200~300ml to run, the rest is there for correct oil circulation and lubing tranny etc.