Since '02 xBhp is different things to different people. From a close knit national community of bikers to India's only motorcycling lifestyle magazine and a place to make like-minded biker friends. Join us

Castrol Power 1

Practice slow-speed riding.

Our Partner

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Where 10W30 is recommended, I think Mobil 1 Delvac 5W40 can be used(Contains 1-2.5% zddp). It is a fully synthetic oil and is easily available in market as all new multijet/DDIS,CRDI passenger cars use this grades of FS oil. It is available for Rs.850/- per litre.
    Those who do more than 1000kms per month should benefit from this oil and will cost the same as any other oil as the usage is high.
    I will experiment with this oil in my xtreme once it crosses 8k kms.
    (If and only if Veedol Super Swift does not end my search for THE PERFECT OIL) I have full faith in Sibun. Fingers crossed !

    OT-
    Damn,I still did not receive my Temporary registration number for xtreme. Will have to wait till Saturday as the T/R documents are with the dealer and Wed/Thursday are holiday.Can't even take it out on a ride.The frustration in having a new bike and still not being able to ride is like.........................

    Comment


    • I want to change oil for my fork. They are very hard and i feel jerk a lot. Have driven 10k after previous oil change. No oil leaks, nothing, just want to overhaul to make them soft.Don't know which oil to use. But let me tell you, i've tried two oils so far. First when i used veedol the shock was soft as it should be. At the second time, i got my work done from a different mechanic. This time i used castrol and the shocks are harder from the day it has been make. The mechanic who make didn't washed anything in kerosene. And after filling oil he tightened the top cover nut and then pressed shocks 5~6 times. And he did wrong here, how air can come out after tightening top cover nut. Ever since then my shocks are hard just because of that idiot mechanic. Now i am gonna do myself. So please let me know what things should i buy??No. 23 (washer), 25 (oil seal), 26 (o-ring) are must i know. What else??I want to make it as soft as possible. For your information, non of the things are ever been changed other than above listed item. Rest all are running factory.Do i also need to change. Oil lock piece (9), piston ring (10), spring (2) and collar or anything??Which is best oil to go for??When i got open for second time, that mechanic showed me some damage mark on one of the fork pipe. I don't know where it is, but he told me to change next time u make. But i'm sure it is not near the oil seal because after running for 10k my oil seals are still fine and there is not a single drop of leak held.Edit:Exactly how much oil to pour? Manual suggest 162-165 ml, ATF or an equivalent oil.
      Last edited by paul.1911; 03-28-2013, 03:42 PM.
      | SOL 68s | Rynox Tornado Pro | Rynox Advento | Cramster TRG2 | Scoyco MC20 | Hero 5 and SJ6 |

      Adjusting Tappets FZ25 www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhiJGtd_Xigl
      Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AZ5MlXF7dc

      Visit here for more DIY www.youtube.com/c/LifeofPal

      DIY - Foam Air filter Cleaning & Oiling / Horn Repair Guide / Replacing Motorcycle Fork Oil

      Read This Before You Buy Any Halogen Bulb
      Engine Overhaul

      Comment


      • Originally posted by paul.1911 View Post
        I want to change oil for my fork. They are very hard and i feel jerk a lot. Have driven 10k after previous oil change. No oil leaks, nothing, just want to overhaul to make them soft.Don't know which oil to use. But let me tell you, i've tried two oils so far. First when i used veedol the shock was soft as it should be. At the second time, i got my work done from a different mechanic. This time i used castrol and the shocks are harder from the day it has been make. The mechanic who make didn't washed anything in kerosene. And after filling oil he tightened the top cover nut and then pressed shocks 5~6 times. And he did wrong here, how air can come out after tightening top cover nut. Ever since then my shocks are hard just because of that idiot mechanic. Now i am gonna do myself. So please let me know what things should i buy??No. 23 (washer), 25 (oil seal), 26 (o-ring) are must i know. What else??I want to make it as soft as possible. For your information, non of the things are ever been changed other than above listed item. Rest all are running factory.Do i also need to change. Oil lock piece (9), piston ring (10), spring (2) and collar or anything??Which is best oil to go for??When i got open for second time, that mechanic showed me some damage mark on one of the fork pipe. I don't know where it is, but he told me to change next time u make. But i'm sure it is not near the oil seal because after running for 10k my oil seals are still fine and there is not a single drop of leak held.Edit:Exactly how much oil to pour? Manual suggest 162-165 ml, ATF or an equivalent oil.
        I suspect wrong grade of oil/fake fork oil which has made the shock hard.
        If you are doing it yourself then you will need a special tool to open the bottom bolt. This tool is used to hold the internals while loosening this bolt.
        Just where the oil seal seats,there is a "teflon" coated guide and it needs to be scratch-less/without any signs of wear. If found damaged then the fork bottom needs to be replaced.
        Disassemble completely and check everything for any signs of wear. Clean it thoroughly with kerosene/petrol and let it dry before re-assembling.
        Check Sibun's post for detailed description.



        Comment


        • Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post
          I suspect wrong grade of oil/fake fork oil which has made the shock hard.
          If you are doing it yourself then you will need a special tool to open the bottom bolt. This tool is used to hold the internals while loosening this bolt.
          Just where the oil seal seats,there is a "teflon" coated guide and it needs to be scratch-less/without any signs of wear. If found damaged then the fork bottom needs to be replaced.
          Disassemble completely and check everything for any signs of wear. Clean it thoroughly with kerosene/petrol and let it dry before re-assembling.
          Check Sibun's post for detailed description.
          Yeah i've checked his post already. I'll get that tool from my mechanic.
          Does Motul is the best fork oil you have used so far??
          | SOL 68s | Rynox Tornado Pro | Rynox Advento | Cramster TRG2 | Scoyco MC20 | Hero 5 and SJ6 |

          Adjusting Tappets FZ25 www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhiJGtd_Xigl
          Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AZ5MlXF7dc

          Visit here for more DIY www.youtube.com/c/LifeofPal

          DIY - Foam Air filter Cleaning & Oiling / Horn Repair Guide / Replacing Motorcycle Fork Oil

          Read This Before You Buy Any Halogen Bulb
          Engine Overhaul

          Comment


          • Originally posted by paul.1911 View Post
            Yeah i've checked his post already. I'll get that tool from my mechanic.
            Does Motul is the best fork oil you have used so far??
            So far it is the best. Same goes with veedol. You can use either of them,no problem in that.
            Be careful as there are many local oil available in the market. Don't proceed if you are unable find genuine Motul/veedol.

            On the other note-
            Nothing special but I just changed the oil in my xtreme and saw fine metal particles floating in the oil like glitter.(Okay,my near vision very sharp and I wear prescription spectacles for myopia)
            Did just 60 kms as I got the T/R yesterday.

            Comment


            • Thats the fine metal particles which are removed from engine , as the engine is new the internal resistance is high , this was same when i changed my engine oil too
              Carb Tuning made easy (Thanks Sibun !)

              Comment


              • Originally posted by RohIIT View Post
                Thats the fine metal particles which are removed from engine , as the engine is new the internal resistance is high , this was same when i changed my engine oil too
                That's why I mentioned "nothing special". But my main intention was to let others know that changing the oil at "700-800" kms is too late. One oil change before 1st service is a good insurance for the life of the engine. The engine will continue to set-in even after 1st service but most of the breaking-in takes place in the first few kms and it is good to remove those metal particles.

                Comment


                • +100 , thanks to this forum , i learnt that we need to have atleast one oil change for proper bedding of engine parts , Shoeb , are you using oem engine oil ? Mine xtreme has done 3500 i am unable to get veedol , shell , only motul 300010w30 was available , is it mineral ? Can i use it or oem is better ?
                  Carb Tuning made easy (Thanks Sibun !)

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by RohIIT View Post
                    +100 , thanks to this forum , i learnt that we need to have atleast one oil change for proper bedding of engine parts , Shoeb , are you using oem engine oil ? Mine xtreme has done 3500 i am unable to get veedol , shell , only motul 300010w30 was available , is it mineral ? Can i use it or oem is better ?
                    Yes,I am using OE Hero oil. It is not that bad at all like others say. Just try to get the Hero Oil made by Tidewater(Refer Pinaki's recent post for pictures).
                    Motul 3000 4T is mineral(any grade) and I personally didn't like the Motul 3000 10W30 grade at all. OE Hero oil does a much better job, is cheap and available easily.
                    I would use this oil for at-least first 5k kms (with a drain interval of 1500kms)in any Hero engine as they take very long time to "open-up".

                    Many Hero owners(especially busy commuters) all over India have trusted their SVC's barrel oil/OE oil and still crossed the 1,00,000 milestone without any problem. But here, regular maintenance and oil change is the key.
                    Last edited by shoeb2015; 03-29-2013, 10:02 PM.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post

                      On the other note-
                      Nothing special but I just changed the oil in my xtreme and saw fine metal particles floating in the oil like glitter.(Okay,my near vision very sharp and I wear prescription spectacles for myopia)
                      Did just 60 kms as I got the T/R yesterday.
                      That's nothing.. My splendor showed up metal pieces as big as 1 cm nails in the oil stainer during first service!

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by muztariq View Post
                        That's nothing.. My splendor showed up metal pieces as big as 1 cm nails in the oil strainer during first service!
                        Good, that got the centrifugal filter and mesh cleaned at 1st service. Very few people follow the procedure mentioned in the owner's manual nowadays.
                        SVC's find all possible ways to make the process quick.

                        Comment


                        • I agree , manual mentions to clean the centrifugal cleaner at first service , but those guys dont do it and say it needs cleaning after 20k kms.. Also cleaning that is not as easy as cleaning air filter , it requires skill ..
                          Carb Tuning made easy (Thanks Sibun !)

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by RohIIT View Post
                            I agree , manual mentions to clean the centrifugal cleaner at first service , but those guys dont do it and say it needs cleaning after 20k kms.. Also cleaning that is not as easy as cleaning air filter , it requires skill ..
                            Not skill but time !

                            Comment


                            • I have a Splender NXG ran 4.5k. The problem is when I change from low gears 1-2 or 2-3 at low rpm it jerks as if chain is too loose but chain is actually not loose(shown to mechanic). and another problem is I have to shift to first gear after breaking in heavy traffic. engine just halts at second gear in such situation. i.e. not enough pull in second gear. but i experience great pickup.


                              This is my first post.

                              Comment


                              • You are lacking torque . Did you ever change the chain/sprockets for another size than that came with your bike ?
                                Welcome to the xbhp forums .
                                Last edited by Pinaki; 03-31-2013, 11:41 AM.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X