Above ALL
So that was the thing which you were referring to earlier in electrical modification thread ?
It may be shorted internally or the insulation has gone bad so battery is draining.

Yes it is that thing . Below the left side of rear grab rail . I got very much disappointed by its behaviour cause even the ASC mechanics told connect it you will get good light no need to convert full DC . But whenever i connect it it eats my battery .

@Sibun : Nope.No smoke at all..Even revved it like crazy ..And the Service centre guys will repaint the full bike and replace some parts (They will paint the engine too,and replace chain cover) for just Rs.3000

OK.....thanks....I'll wait for those, hope both item fit in this bike or they are universal for all HH 97.2cc bike.
Last thing I want a burned electrical....

Please double check the part no when able to provide,don't hurry..it seems you are my last hope.

If this week I fail to accure any of the above item due to rudeness of seller/distributer here, then next week I'll not have any other choice but blindly follow Above_All 's procedure.

Thanks Above_All , my mech advised me to follow the same step.....thanks for the picture edit.


-----------------------------------------
Called the mech over the phone, and when I said about the Above_All 's procedure, he kind of jump on it by saying "disconet the stupid (*%#@**) thing ASAP".....he was damm confident.
But when I asked why they provide if it is not needed...he remain silent & return with "to harass (@#%*) user".

I see no point to educate him with sibun's point.

@Neel
To check the resistor
1.Set the multi-meter to 200 ohms setting
2.Disconnct the pink connector
3.Touch the black wire of the probe to any bare metal of the chassis.
4.Touch the red color probe to the pink wire connector which is having black insulating sleeve.

Post your readings here.

In the midst of this electrical discussions, I have to admit to making a very bad mistake yesterday . I had taken out and put the battery on my external charger on Saturday and on Sunday morning in a hurry I was fitting it back to the bike . The bike's ignition key was switched off . The battery and it's overflow-pipe was fitted back ok . Then I somehow connected the battery's green wire to the bike's red . In 2-3 seconds the green wire of the battery became very hot, and realising the mistake I pulled the wire off . It felt like one moment and must have been less than 5 seconds , and the red battery wire was never connected to anything at all . I bit my hands a few times for this ...
Then I connected the battery again right way this time , and turned on the ignition key . Nothing came on .. no neutral(green) light no horn etc . I turned everything off and prayed for a minute maybe . Then on turning the key on again everything came on and has functioned normal since . Now I am wondering if some permanent damage has been done to the wiring or electrical parts ? How to check ?
I also think the fuse they have put on my bike is a resetting type , since it has two strips of plates inside it touching each other in the middle , instead of a continuous thin wire , as is usual with cartridge type fuses . Maybe the fuse had blown and then reset again when I was praying ? Not sure about this one though .

Wow,your bike comes with a bi-metal circuit breaker.
As you mentioned that the switch was "off",there is nothing to worry much because all DC power is routed through the ignition switch.
Nothing to worry unless the wire insulation is baked.
I have seen the same mistake done by a mech on a pulsar and oh !!! the entire harness started to glow and started smoking like hell.(Fuse was bypassed on that poor bike long time ago by a long electrician) Fuse is a very important safety device.

@ ALL
I fail to understand why that pink wire from resistor goes to the LH switch assembly.To dissipate the excess current generated when the headlight is not in use by providing alternate ground path by acting as a load resistor ? Please explain its function,I want to know more !!!!!

Most automotive resetting fuse are thermal based to avoid repeated replacement problem...So the fuse is actually a bimetal,which bends due to heat if more current is drawn,and when it cools,makes contact again...but this is older technology and fast blow fuses are replacing it,making it necessary to replace fuse once it fuses with higher current.

As per my mechanic friend & some of ASC mechanics it is there to draw extra charging in day when headlight is off & save battery from overcharging , while some ASC mechanics say it store power & provide to headlight when used avoiding extra load . ( Which shows they even don't know difference between energy storer & resistor )

They don't have real reason , but i think the stock alternator & rr is not going to generate that much power which can overcharge battery .

BTW is you attached that black wire with black covering to 10 no. bolt of rear fiber cowl ? or it is from HH ? I don't have that in my bike .
May be i disconnected it when i added neon lights within indicators but not remembering as its been 7/8 years before .

No problem there as both wires not connected & ignition switch is off .
In old models of splendor the battery have male connector for negative wire & female connector in wiring , while positive terminal have female connector at battery & male connector at wiring , so there are no chances of connecting in wrong direction .

May be the new models have round hole clips for both ends of battery in wiring so that's why the problem .

May be to serve as a load when headlight is off & save battery from getting extra charge . But i don't think it will be that much to cause problem to battery as we have only 3 pole coil . But as it is always said prevention is better than cure , so maybe that's why they done that .

Done, with engine on/off, connect the red probe both end (one end at a time) of the pink wire
which is having black insulating sleeve. But result is the same in below picture. Please review multimeter setting...hope it is 200 ohms right.



Found that thing which is rusted in this bike,


I didn't do anything, all are factory stock condition, here it is look like in this bike. It is old one with carrier type grab rail which can carry 8kg (recommended in manual) load in the back, I believe yours model is CBZ classic style grab rail which comes at 2002. (as people want style not utility so they put it next year)

Connect one probe to the pink connector and other probe to the metal casing of that resistor.
Set the multi-meter at 2000 setting and try.

@ALL
The resistor is an alternate path to ground for the current generated when the headlights are not in use.
It does not control battery charging as mentioned earlier.

Here is the proof.
( Disassembled LH switch assembly's light switch showing pink wire at "OFF" position)

I always wondered why that pink wire is there at off position,now When I traced it back I got the answer.







Battery is charged up-to 1 amps at more than 1/4th throttle and is more than enough to charge the battery within <1 km.
There is no need to remove the battery and charge it separately using a charger.



My splendor which is not used regularly does not need any "external charging".I just take it to spin once in a week(for less than 1 km) and it gets charged,this is a local made,acid type battery which has been serving me since last 6 years.
Just topping the electrolyte once in three months is all maintenance it takes.
It was deep-cycled many times,overloaded innumerable times due to my tinkering but no problem at all.

Done with 2000 setting, Red probe in Pink connector and Black probe to the metal casing of that resistor.

Result is the same = 1 or no response as I see from that.

done with Engine on/off.

Edit:- even I try all those option in ohm section from 200 to 2000k in meter and the result is the same.....no response.

Did you remove the rust from where you touched the probe ?(To make good contact)

^^^^

Yes, I tried to those place where it still free from rust (can be seen in earlier post pic) , can't clean due to not reachable postion (without remove the grab rail). Put the black probe also on chasis where it mounted, but no result.

Can you please let me know what reading figure you expected from it ? Or what reading you got from your bike ?

For mine it looks like dead.

That is a great finding shoeb . I never imagined they would sink the faltu current produced by the lighting coil of the alternator, when not in use, in this way .

It had happened so quickly , that I just remember the heated wire on my hand looking down to see red+green wire and instinctively pulling the connection . Then in a hurry I connected it rightly and locked up and left, it was 8:45am. I was in a big hurry, Sunday was jamai-soshti and I had to fetch 2kilo of mishti-doi from our favorite shop, and they will run out of stock by 9am on such days. No Mishti-doi or Sandesh on such a day would be a proper disaster .
SO it occurrs to me on reading your observation. Yes you are right of course ... no way I could have connected wrong pole of battery to bike's connectors . So I examined the arrangement closely again today ..



So yes , indeed no way to connect the green battery wire's terminal to the bike's red ! So what did I do on sunday ?!! I must have connected the battery's green wire to the battery red , shorting the battery for a moment !! That is the only thing possible . Darns !

You tell me now what it is ? Simple fuse or circuit breaker ? The fuse on my old cbz-x doesn't look like this one for sure .



Closer look , can see that strip inside ?



See , the way I check for the charge state of a flooded lead acid battery is to check the open-circuit voltage with meter , then take off the caps and check the colour and consistency of the electrodes . Fully charged flooded lead-acid battery should have more than 12.5v and dark-grey to almost matt-black anode and a brownish cathode . None to negligible white powdery deposits(sulfate) may be there on the electrodes . Colour & water level should be consistent across all the cells . Each cell should measure around 2.1v fully charged (measured by inserting meter's probe into each cell to reach the cathode) . After this you can measure the specific-gravity of the electrolyte with hygrometer too . I learned all this faltu work hands on maintaining banks of batteries of various types for work .
On examining this and other vehicle's batteries I found two defects . 1) The colour of the anode on 2-4 of the cells would remain a lighter grey colour after on-vehicle charging . 2) There would be large amount of white deposits(sulpate) on 2-4 cells . This indicates a improper formatting of the battery, imbalanced charging across the cells and surface-charge . A new lead-acid battery needs to be formatted by fully charging and then discharging to safe discharge depth atleast ten cycles . Battery should be maintained on trickle(float) charging whenever not in use for long time, specially in hot climates . Also from time to time (say in 1-2 months) of use, the battery should be put on an equalising charge of more than 14.5v for about 2 hours to eliminate excess sulfate formation on the electrodes, equalising the charge state across the cells and prevent electrolyte stratification . Electrolyte level should be maintained above the electrodes, by addition of water if necessary after the charging is complete . So you can safely pull my leg that I am a bit too finicky about batteries .
This is the charging voltage I get at 1/4 throttle at idle and battery connected . Ok, no ?