@pinaki- yes ASK brake shoe are the ones that you saw and they come is small yellow boxes with red letters. do not worry they are asbestos model as non-asbestos are approximately double cost of asbestos model.go fir ASK as they are OE supplier to almost all two wheeler company.But do not change both shoes at once as shoes require some time to regain their bite. so change one and then after two to three days change other.
yes that is the plug and it also comes in hero honda pack. today itself i changed my joy plug to champion. clean the drum before fitting new shoes.

I told you that it is very easy to find ASK because they are cheap.
In Hyderabad you can exchange old shoes/liners and get new one for just Rs40/- Crazy isn't it ?

Simple solution is to get a 10ml syringe without needle, remove the syringe plunger and fill the syringe barrel with grease,put back the plungerNow use it as a grease gun.

I got champion plug for Rs.45/- Last year in December.(Hero-Honda Packing)

I have to change cone-set because it is making Tak-Tak sound when I brake hard.
Not a problem with OE brakes because they don't bite so furiously.

My Splendor's maintenance cost per km is going up because it is not used much. but for some reason It is very dear to me so I maintain as far as I can.

Oil change every 4 months without fail - Rs 160 x22=Rs.3520/-
Chain and sprocket replaced at 10,000kms -Rs.900/-
Rear Rim and spokes replaced due to rusting and bend -Rs.1080
Rear Tyre replaced at 10,000kms -Rs.1000
Replaced Clutch plates Rs.300
Front shock oil and seal replaced due to leaks +paid general service at SVC Rs.800/-
Rear brake shoes replaced Rs 80x3=Rs.240/-
Front tyre replaced Rs.1750
Speedo meter cable and gear replaced Rs.200
Clutch cable replaced Rs80
Accelerator Cable replaced Rs.80
Front brake shoe replaced Rs.90
Front rim truing,bearing replaced due to vibrations in handle bar Rs.200
Total maintenance cost-9970
Mileage-16,000Kms
Maintenance Cost per KM Rs. 0.625/-

Cheap means they aren't as good quality as ANL etc ?? I can try looking further if you guys say so ....

I know that method , won't work ... the new grease has no space to go in ... you have to remove the old grease or allow it to flow out of the other side somehow . But here the other side is also sealed . If you force in the new grease , it can pop out the seal from the other(inward) side and lodge the rubber piece inside there, not good . That was last year ... NGK was 55 then too . Now I am finding all parts prices have gone up considerably . Here HeroHonda is supplying NGKs only .

@Sibun
I read your post just now.
Why dint you tell us that you were going to update it ?
I was waiting for it so eagerly all these days


Which piston and bore is used in my 2004 splendor ?
How did you de-carbonize the head so neatly ?I was not able to do such a neat job,not even closer to yours

Just by looking at the bore I could get an idea of the quality and finish of usha without reading your caption.
Even a small child can tell which one is better.
Shame on HERO for making such cheap quality parts.
Is there any advantage of using joy piston in splendor ?

How frequently do you open he head and de-carbonize ?

Because I have two bikes with same engines I can tell if the performance has increased or decreased.

My splendor can pull easily in 1st gear without applying accelerator and can do speeds less than 20 in fourth gear with very-very slight throttle that to with-out any knocking. I haven't seen any another 100cc bike which can do this.
With every Kilo Meter I am liking it more and more.



@All
Pls Check it out.

Mine lugs at anything below 30kmph in fourth , but this bike is just over 10k kms yet and i've not ridden it above 70kmph too .

Nice update Sibun'jee , just saw it now .

Same query If it is of inferior quality why would Sibun suggest it ? Why would I suggest ?
As I told earlier higher cost does not mean higher/better quality.
Please don't take it seriously.

Change the rear shoe,if you feel satisfied(after 10kms) change the front shoe also but only after 15 kms because new shoes will take some time to set-in/burn-in.
If you change both the shoes then it will become dangerous because brakes wont respond until they set properly.

Ok from your description the drum has slightly worn out. Do not change the drum as your splendor has very less running. What you do is loosen the axle nut and rotate the wheel with force. Ask some one to suddenly depress the rear brake lever with full force of foot. The wheel will lock suddenly and stop. Do not remove the foot from pedal. If pressure is released then do the same procedure again so that the foot pressure on pedal is maintained. Now tighten the axle nut and then release the pedal pressure. Now see that the brake will not bind. This take hardly two minutes but you require someone to help you press the brakes. Do this and report me. Also regarding the brake free play open the cam of the brake and advance it slightly so that it moves further away from brake rod. This way your free play problem will be solved. And regarding cold water this is hog wash because if your drums are hot and it rains does it means that your drum will wrap. These components are built strong and can withstand such abuse easily.If your drum is worn then use makino brake shoes as they come in slightly oversize so will feel good in worn drum. But first align the drum by the procedure i have mentioned and see the result. As the bike gets old fitting the wheel like that will cause the brake to bind as the drum is slightly worn. So we have to align the drum by above procedure.
I thought you have read my post.
I De-carbonize the head by first scrapping the carbon with a tool. Then i take a 1000 grit silicon grit paper and wet it with petrol and then rub it over the head. This way it will act as polisher and remove the carbon without scratching the head. Also i do the same on the piston head and thus the combustion chamber becomes squeaky clean. Also i clean the mating surface of head and bore with the same wet 1000 grit silicon carbide so that the surface is even and no leak occurs.
Joy has a head which is less deep than splendor to increase the compression ratio. So it requires quicker cleaning than splendor. I De-carbonize the head in 15,000 km.
Advantage of using joy piston in splendor is improved mileage, better pulling power and also you can go one teeth less at rear sprocket to get better top end. Even my joy also pulls like diesel vehicle i.e just release the clutch and it will pull without accelerator and that too at 1000 rpm idling.Also my joy runs at 20 kph in 4th gear without any problem.
Your splendor will be having GOETZE or USHA piston.

@pinaki- Cheap in cost not in quality. ASK supplies the same to hero. You buy the same shoe for Rs.100 in OE packing while in its original packing it sells for Rs.70.
If you can find ANL then good but it is in very short supply. Even my front brake shoe require replacement and my retailer friend has emptied all stock of ANL and will get after 3 months. So i will go for ASK.

[MENTION=28527]sibun[/MENTION]

I read your post again-
Crank-pin was worn from clutch side.
But you told that you replaced the con rod two month ago.
How is that possible ?

What did you do to solve the problem ?

Do you replace the head-gasket every time you open it ? I know it gets compressed and is better to replace it as it is cheap but still I wanted to ask this question.

Finished running in ? Can you record sound of the engine with your mobile phone ?


ANL brake shoes is not a fast moving product,many people don't know about it hence very few shops have it in stock.
I was lucky to get it very easily.

Replies in bold.

I have purchased both brake-shoe sets of ASK brand , shall be fitting tonight or tomorrow - it's raining constantly here since two days now .
What is the size of the sprocket carrier bearing , same as that on the wheels (i.e 6301) ? The reason I am asking this is I found a few FAG bearings in a shop there in the 6301 size for wheels @ Rs 70 each, should I buy 4+1 and stock up ?

@Sibun
I understood fully now.

I know audio clip recorded by a mobile doesn't come out good but I can manage bad quality.
You can upload it on 4shared.com - free file sharing and storage and post the link here.

@pinaki ji

What is included in splendor carb-rebuild kit ?
Float,pin,and o-rings ?? or jets also ?
How much does it cost ?

I can see usha pistons also in the picture.

Yes , this guy is pretty well stocked indeed , and that too with the best quality after-market parts that Sibun favours , as well as all the OEM parts too . His prices are a about Rs 2-5 higher than market , but since I found his shop quite by chance one afternoon, about 5mins away from my home , it saves me running to the Wellington Square market(15kms away through the heart of city traffic) , finding a spot to park, and going from shop to shop there locating bits and pieces ....
Ok I'll ask about it . I am also thinking about stocking up on some essential and hard-to-get parts from him , including a bore-piston kit . At the rate spares prices are going up , it may even be a good investment for the future , what say ?

I think USHA bore piston will be a good investment because all kind of cheap quality parts are in huge demand now and finding good quality japanese parts will become difficult and costly later.(Just my thought)

It feels good to have a stock of spare parts lying with us, checking it out every now and then and getting happy ,nahi ?
I am a student,depend on my parents for money but I still save some money and always keep a stock of consumables like oil,oil seals,brake shoes and cables.

No,need to buy bearings and stock up. Its because your bearings will last approximately more than 1 lacs km(mine rear wheel bearings are still not tired after 3.1 lacs) so if you stock up by the time you open the pack it will have rusted. And FAG is an international company, and if you do not find it then just PM me, i will courier it to you. Kolkatta is not much far from bhubaneswar.
Carb rebuilt kit consist of both the jets, needle, slide,o-ring,idling screw, and AFR screw. Basically it consist of all that you can remove from the throttle body.
Man, i think you are riding a RX. No need to stock items as slowly after-market spare is opening up and people are realizing the quality of after market parts.Previously due to company policy OE supplier couldn't enter into parts supply so after market parts were from sub-standard company. But presently OE supplier are penetrating market.
I know your situation. One day i was also a student, and my joy being royally fu**ed up by my cousin brothers i spent a lot in restoring it. I had to save money and i saved my pocket money by skipping lunch from canteen and spending on my bike.
There is no need to stock spares and if any parts is in shortage then i can direct you to its OE supplier and you can get it.


Our carb is a PB 18 carb. Its venturi is 18 mm and i had a talk with ucal regional office manager who had come to my friends spare shop and he says they have carb of ucal which is cv and venturi of 18 mm. So i am thinking of trying CV 18 carb on my joy then testing. Keihin has also CV 18 carb but they do not have regional office in orissa. Also jet of keihin are not easily available. so i am thinking of going for ucal carb as the manager knows me and i can get various jets for testing.

@all- USHA not only manufactures bore,piston and rings. They also manufactures bearings,fuel injectors,cylinder liner,crankshaft,con-rod,valve, e.t.c.
day before yesterday USHA sales person have come to my friend spare shop and i was present at that time. Usha is also venturing into grease,engine oils and coolants. They will launch it in a months time and considering their quality they will be good. I was thinking of trying USHA engine oils and will report here.
Do not fear about USHA availability. They are into parts manufacturing for last 30 years and most diesel engines use USHA liner,piston and rings, crankshaft,valves, injectors, e.t.c.
Have a view of there website:-
Automobile Spare Parts, Diesel Engine Parts, Fuel Injection, Auto Spare Parts India

This thread reminds me of RX and fiero threads. While all other threads are ownership experience these three threads are like technical threads and also love of there owners towards there bike.
For the last so many days i am trying to post my journey with my bike in this 12 years but not finding time. I am thinking of posting it in parts.
So i will try to post one of the longest ownership experience of my joy at 12 years and 3.1 lacs under its belt.
My bikes birthday is coming up. Its on 08/July/2012. It was on this day in 2001 that i bought the bike home. I am thinking of taking a off on that day and cleaning and polishing the bike on that day and taking it to temple for puja.

Thank you ... I shall need it someday for sure .

There is a reason for that , these bike models are the contemporaries of RX and pre-dates Fiero .

Other than the availability part of it , there is also a cost factor . Prices are increasing monthly nowadays ... A bore-piston kit etc stashed away today shall pay you back wayyy better than a bank fixed-deposit when the time comes to install it . Also I am wary of this problem having had to sell an RX100 and mothball a RX135 , Yamaha is offering the bore-piston kit for it now for around Rs 8500.00 and less than a month's waiting (they said) .

Eagerly waiting , should you decide to do this some day ...

Edit : Last night ,I have dismantled both wheels and front bearings and sprocket carrier and brake assemblies and cleaned them up . They were filthy with sand , grit , old dried and caked grease , black brake-dust and what not . Now waiting to fit with new shoes , grease pack the bearings and reassemble . As is usual , I seem to have messed up a little thing .. well it seems to be little untill now ... please wait I shall update pics in 20 mins .. need your help with this guys !

Ok , while cleaning up the mess inside the front hub and speedo pinion area - this spring o-ring/band kinda thingy slipped out from under this rubber-seal . I guess , it's there to keep the seal tight on whatever it seals .I am unable to slip it back under the seal and the seal won't budge with ordinary(screwdriver) force . Is this a dealdly essential thingy that I need to buy this seal new , or can do without it plenty well ?? What to do (quickly please,the wheel is still out) ?