I know that CDI of hero honda doesn't get damaged so soon. I asked to do so because it is easy as nothing needs to be removed and, just remove right panel and plug the cdi. We always check the cdi as it is easy then proceed for other. By checking the cdi we first eliminate the problem from cdi and then proceed on checking the other components.
And regarding power coil POWER is the only producer of ignition coil and supplies to all company. So it is generally refereed to as Power coil.
CDI is supplied by DENSO or NIPPON and they are of best quality. Yes the coils are AC as there is cdi charging coil in the magnet.
The new passion pro,splendor pro,pleasure,CD deluxe, karizma every bike except the splendor+ now sports microprocessor based CDI which are DC and if there is no battery then there will be severe misfiring.
The reliance oil was available here about 1 year back and since it didn't find any takers it was stopped.
Since it is a common misconception that hero doesn't change any of there bikes, i will post the difference by tabulating in a table in my next post the difference between old model and new model pro to clear the misconception.

Yes , I have suffered a lot from these damned induction(ignition) coils which are usually fixed under the fuel-tank . Went bad on my RX(once) , crux(twice) ... owing to rusting . Very difficult to detect , atleast the YASS here wasn't able to do it for six months, kept scratching their heads every-time and replaced a bunch of other parts needlessly . Then one local mechanic found it . The location is such that rain-water trickles down somehow under the tank and wets it often during monsoon and washings , and it quietly rusts under there and one day starts giving you untold trouble . So nowadays with my current bikes I took out the tank and lightly painted it(the induction coil thingy) with red-lead primer , when new . No more rust .

I was looking for high-temperature grease for use inside the brake-drums . It gets hot in there and normal grease has a risk of melting or vaporising and contaminating the brake shoes/drum . Though I have been using ordinary grease there(sparingly) forever without problems . Otherwise I am using the castrol longlife everywhere else for maintaining compatibility . Many greases are not compatible with others, even if it is of the same type . Mixing causes thinning out and drop-off . Earlier I was using ELF's LEX3 ap(all purpose) grease , but it's not always available . Which the castrol one is (50Rs for 200gm pouch).
Veedol AP2 is also an all-purpose grease possibly of NLGI 2 grade, please check . AP greases are suitable for all uses , including bearings , but prefer NLGI3 grade for our climate .

I ruled out all the possible mechanical causes for misfiring and came down to three electrical parts -
1.CDI,
2.Ignition coil,
3.charging coil.

Having a same bike with same parts and part specifications helped me in easy diagnosing and preventing unnecessary replacement of parts.
A digital multi-meter is a must for every biker/driver.

I changed Front shock absorber oil seals with genuine SKF make,it costed me just Rs.30 per piece so I gave it a try (Original costs Rs75).

I cannot think how your ignition coil gets rusted. because my joy ignition coil was changed last year(after 11 years) and you know my running. while opening it was good and we changed it on doubt but later it was found to be good and i have kept it as spare.
@shoeb- why did you change to skf oil seal. original are much better and made by SFN(a german company) and thus they are priced higher.

I know OE are made by SFN but I replaced it with SKF because the bike is used for just 21 days a year.

Ignition coil core extension(external) which is made up of iron rusts.
I think it is a good idea to replace it every 8 years.

@ pinaki ji
It is Veedol AP-3,NGLI consistency is No. 3.

Faulty ignition coil,made by wines
No wonder as it got rusted after 12 years.(2001-2012)

Back from my native village , this is what the Splendor is for .

I would love to ride on those kind of roads,away from all kinds of urban pollution.

Friends
Is there any difference b/w motorcycle engine oils and car engine oil ..i tried all these in my bikes including crb plus..drained at usual intervals..i cant find any difference ..especially the " clutch slippage " phenomenon.. and the engine is in good condition..i think the creation of the motorcycle oil is to exploit users by charging extra money..its a hype i think..whats ur opinion..
oils i tried are veedol turbostar, hp cruise 15w 40 ,castrol gtx,,shell helix etc...

Pinaki je
I applied grease on the edges marked below ,,is that correct

Harish'Jee , which bike are you trying to kill off ?
You may not feel the effects of minor clutch-slip in your day to day riding but the effect of these slippery additives are cumulative and shall shave some thousand kilometers off your clutch life . The side effect of a slippery clutch is an overheated engine too .
Yes , the difference is not much ... petrol car oils which contain the additives harmful to bike's wet-clutch system are marked as such, like "with special fuel saving anti-wear anti-friction formula" etc etc ... so you'll know that when you are buying it .
Diesel oils like castrol-crb etc are quite safe to use in bikes actually, since they don't contain the anti-friction etc additives and do contain much more detergents good for cleaning out old engines. Overall diesel-formula oils are also more robust in severe conditions use .
But then the question is today in the market Castrol-GTX/CRB+ or Shell-Hellix etc oils are about the same price as bike oils , for a liter pack, sometimes even more expensive . So what incentive in taking the risk to try them instead ?
Off course , if you find yourself in the middle of no-where with your engine oil vanished from the sump somehow , and the option is between riding the engine dry or with very low oil-level , and only car-specific oils are available there .. do not hesitate to fill up with it . You can always drain it and fill with bike oil when you are able to reach civilization .

No , the area is correct but it should be on the inner yellow foam only . The black outer foam element does not contact the filter-cage/frame in anyway , only the inner one does(on the splendor filter) . A very little bit all around the edge on both ends , same area as you have shown , but on the yellow inner element only . Here is an example of edge-grease used on a different type foam air-filter (unifilter) .

pinaki jee
I applied the grease on the inner yellow foam only,,,,,the filter shown was of a different bike and its the inner foam

Today I got an new engine oil,,,i gonna try this for my old yamaha fazer ...

Can anyone upload owner's manual -> maintenance section ?
Snaps of two pages per day will do.
I lost my owner's manual and I need tappet,carb,centrifugal filter ..etc service procedure and recommended tappet clearance also.
Hero showroom does not want to give me a copy owner's manual.

Thanks in Advance.

There is no need of applying grease. Usually the foam is larger than the holder so it fits tightly and seals the joint of holder and filter. If your filter is loose then it indicates that time for replacement of filter is due.
It is a very good engine oil. In summer season you can use castrol crb+ as i have used it many times and it is excellent in controlling heat. Just see the pack. If there is no mention of JASO MB rating then it is fine. Use diesel engine oil but not petrol engine oil. Use mineral car engine oil and never semi-synthetic and synthetic oil.
Today i will scan the user manual of joy and tomorrow i will post it. The beauty of joy,splendor e.t.c manual is that most maintenance is provided in the manual. But in other bikes everything is mentioned to consult service center.
@all - i have updated the ownership experience of my joy. I will go on adding, so all are requested to have a look regularly.
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/832255-post608.html