Hairsh'jee , under no circumstances do start/run the engine with diesel etc in it or without the proper oil . Engine bearings won't survive running in diesel , let alone other parts . If you really want to clean the engine , the only method is to take it apart and clean , then reassemble it . That is not very difficult or expensive for motorcycle engines .
If you are really bend upon doing an engine flush , buy a small can of the Cyclo engine flush and follow the instructions that come with it exactly . Even then just after you have drained the old-oil+flush out , fill with a very cheap oil and run the bike for a few kilometers only and drain this oil out again while the engine is hot . Then fill with your desired good oil and ride on .
Running your engine on a good diesel-engine oil(like castrol crb+) for say 1000kms , would have similar effect of cleaning it out .

Your plug indicates you are running on good settings. If i am not mistaken then it is MICO plug which is a colder plug. Please change to champion or NGK as they are hotter plug and cause less carbon deposits. A colder plug will cause more carbon deposits in head and will require earlier decarbonisation.

Do not worry, hero honda makes the best quality bikes in business. It is not a surprise that hero honda is considered a bench mark in quality by everybody.
If the engine is running fine, then do not fiddle with it. If i am not mistaken you own a ZMR. Be sure it will also run for 1.5 lacs before requiring overhaul.
Even my bike was overhauled at 1.5 lacs the first time even when it was abused to core by my cousin brothers. More so coming in the ownership thread that i am updating.
Pinakiji why are you thinking that the BS-III engines are changed from there earlier counterparts. Mechanical remains same only cat-con and AIS is added in BS-III. Mark my words that if you maintain it properly your splendor+ will run for 1.5 lacs or more if you maintain it properly.
And if you truly want to see your splendor potential, just decarbonise the head at 20k and polish the valves. Also change the silencer to Y2K model(not the shorter one) and your bike will perform much better. It will cross 90 kph with ease and the low end will increase such that you can potter at 20 kph in 4th gear.
The internals are not changed. Every thing is same. only the replacement parts are not same as previous. But do not worry, i have posted many better quality parts than OE in this thread, and if any doubt about any parts just ask me.
The carburettor body is made of aluminum. So you have to tighten it properly otherwise you risk damage to carb.
The procedure is:-
1. Before mounting the carb tighten the the throttle slide in carb body.
2. Insert the carb in air hose but do not tighten the clamp.
3. With hand tighten the carb to intake manifold till both the nut are tight enough for hand. Then with a #8 spanner tighten each bolt by half turn in alternate fashion till all are tight. Do not use ring spanner, only flat and open end spanner should be used to avoid over-tight by mistake.
4. Now tighten the air hose clamp.
Regarding opening the head, if you haven't seen how to do it then do not try it. Because in 4-stroke bikes you have to set the valve timing with the timing chain and if you do not know how to set timing then it will cause engine seizure in worst case.
And repeated valve opening and polishing is not a good thing because:-
1. You are grinding some of the valve surface and thus thinning out your valves.
2. Valves do not require to be polished until compression leak is detected.My joy first valve polish was done at 1 lac km.
3. The valve seat in head is not available like four wheelers. So when you are polishing the valves then you are also grinding the valve seat in head. Since it is not available as OE parts, the lathe will create new valve seats. This demands skill of the lathe guy. New heads are quite expensive.
Why do you want to do experiment. It will surely damage all the bearings in the engines. My joy which has run for more than 3 lacs km still has never gone for engine flush. None of the engine bearings except crank bearing have been changed. Except those two crank bearings rest all 6 bearings are the same that came from factory. So by doing the above procedure you will damage the other bearings.
If you want to clean engine, then just buy a shell 20W 40 engine oil and put it in engine. Run it for 1000 km and then drain it when engine is hot. The procedure for draining.
1. Open the drain bolt and wait till all the oil has drained out.
2. Now tilt the bike to left side for 1 minute.
3. now tilt the bike to right side and you will see almost 100 ml of oil will drain out.
4. Do the steps 2 & 3 for 4-5 times and you will drain almost 200 ml extra from engine.
I recommend shell engine oil because shell oils have excellent detergent, no other oil has same quality of detergent as shell oil.
Run shell oil for some time and you will see that the engine will be clean no matter how much dirty the engine is.
And please do not ever run the engine on diesel as you will cause its premature death.
I have updated the ownership thread and all can have a look.
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/832255-post608.html
I do not have photos of the bike then. Can i post the photos taken now on 8/07/2012 in the ownership post to break the monotony of post.

Thanks Sibun da. You provided me with peace of mind.
Yup I ride a ZMR, just hope it also runs for 1.5-2L + kms before overhaul.

Thanks.

Thanks so much for that
I've seen the mechanic doing cleaning the head....I haven't opened but I've that much confidence that i can do it.

what does polishing the valves exactly mean?
It means grinding right? so that it can fit in it place completely leaving no gap? I thought polishing means giving it a little bit gloss like using this method so that it will attract less carbon than usually.

So at what interval we should polish the valves, it has 16k kms passed (after new block)...if i do only head cleaning?

I don't know how to set the valve timing can u guide me please?
I want to learn & want to confirm that everything is going perfect, i dont believe in the works of mechanics. I already suffered a lot

Edit: How can i check if compression is not leaking & timing is perfect? There is F mark on the magnet..what is that used for? I'm also getting oil in the spark plug thread & washer

Very true Sibun ji, my crack bearings too have changed but all other bearings are same from factory.

@harish_gkumar
Please do not try this...I've read this diesel experiment yesterday in one forum but as diesel is an inflammable, it can cause fire in the camber. Do not attempt! Opening a camber and cleaning it manually wont take much time.

Today i install a new Air Filter foam
Oil used Castrol GL-4 (SAE 90) ...got after searching in 6 shops , 500ml for Rs.120. Printed Price 122.

I also applied grease under that given arrow mark on each side also applied grease on that back part too




I too use oil to create a layer on this metal part completely, so that it'll too attract some debris coming from the nose




I also applied grease on around the hole, so that there will be no gap, if, the grease will stop particle from going in



Comment please?

Thanks for correcting me guys

Heart touching experience.
I can understand how much you love your bike which is with you from your childhood.I have it,I know how it feels to have such a bike.

EDIT:
Found this in Karizma thread,posted by Ashwin.

A experienced mechanic can check the compression just by kick starting the bike.

To set/check the timing-
Remove the magneto cover
Remove the timing sprocket cover
Remove the spark plug.
Rotate the crank shaft anticlockwise and align "T" mark with the index mark on crankcase.
Make sure the engine is at top-dead center of COMPRESSION STROKE.
If there is any play in both the tappets then it means its is at tdc of compression stroke.
Till here it is the procedure to make the piston at tdc
You can also set the tappets .
OR
Now the circle mark on timing sprocket should be inline with index mark on head.
Adjust the timing chain accordingly to get the correct timing.
Even if one teeth goes here and there and you will get MAD misfiring.

@harish_gkumar
I have two bikes and one of them has run more than 2lac kms but I never felt the need to clean the engine.
Just regular oil changes will make sure the engine is sparkling clean.
My splendor even after 8yrs ,16k kms did not have any deposit when i changed the clutch plates recently.

You are crct it is a MICO plug..How do i find a Hot plug?..simply by company name or by numbers or code?...

Man, you are crazy. You are riding a hero honda and still taking tension. Chill it is a established fact that hero honda are least problematic bike. Even sometimes you will get bored by riding and no maintenance.
Thanks for feeling my sentiments. This is only the small part, the story will become more emotional from now on.
The heat range can be denoted by number.
In NGK the higher the number the colder the plug.
In champion and MICO the higher the number the colder the plug.
NGK-CR7HSA and CHAMPION-PRZ7HC are both hotter plug.
The corresponding heat range is 5 for MICO but we get UR4A here and 5 is not available.

This time how did you apply oil in the filter?

Very good oil for using on this air-filter foam and oiling the drive-chain too . This is what I got 2 years back .. before they suddenly increased price by 50% (earlier was Rs 80 for 500ml) . But still it's the best oil in SAE90 gear-oil grade that I have used yet .


Perfect application of rim-grease . This is what I meant in my original wirte-up , but I was unable to provide pics for these steps as my hands were all greasy then and I have no assistance here . Nice pics, may I add these to my original write-up with your kind permission please ? Also if you apply a thin layer on the top metal part , it'll never get rust like that(yes, it does capture some dirt coming from the snorkel directly) . Did you get the foam elements from HeroHonda only ?

In a plastic bag. Put foam and oil, take out all air, put rubber band, start smashing it util foam gets oiled completely, take out & squeeze it, wrap it in a paper (paper will soak some more oil), leave it for 24hrs, then next day take out your filter from your bike and change it

I was also recording while i was doing but i dont know when my camera get stopped, may be the battery got exhausted lol

Yeah every one is permitted to use my pics anywhere. I too have high res pics, let me know, i'll upload for u

Yes i also bought every part from Hero Honda only, even a simple bolt
Yellow foam cost Rs.62.50 & Black element Rs.25.50, Together Rs.88

To give u an idea, Hotter plug have longer nose, Colder plug have shorter nose.
Your plug nose is inside the hole, which indicated its colder.



Check your manual for recommended spark plugs. Normally MICO UR4AC, NGK-CR7HSA or CHAMPION-PRZ7HC is recommended.

I'd recommend to buy Champion its best it bought it for Rs.70 recently.

LOL i don't feel there is any experienced mechanic here

This thing is known as valve clearance right? I've already done that.

Hmm...this looks like a risky job I haven't done that before nor i know how to do it i needa proceed with caution....should i ask a mechanic for a help?? or should i leave it as it is??

Edit: Sometimes the kick was hard & sometime its soft, why it was so? I think its depend on its piston position??