Why don't we get all this here !!!

My splendor takes just one kick to start with choke on after replacing the plug.(I cant say anything about new splendor)

The carbon deposit is very hard and cannot be removed by spraying solvent.
Letting the solvent soaking it overnight with piston at BDC may help ?
All that I know from experience is that after a ride at high rpm for couple of minutes can break that carbon loose.

I also read somewhere that - ON a hot engine by spraying a fine mist of water through the carburetor can help in de-carbonizing the piston and head.
Is that true ?

Head gasket is cheap(110),opening the head and cleaning it manually is the best way IMO,After two-three months I am going to de-carb both the bikes.

Joy manual

I am sorry to post the manual so late as i was almost down for 5 days due to bad health then was busy in work. Since work piled up, some days i returned at 12 o' clock at night from work.
@all- I never clean my spark plug. If the engine is tuned properly, then there is no carbon formation. After 10-12 k i change the plug and throw the old one. And an important point when you throw the spark plug then please break the white porcelain insulator as the old plugs are cleaned and returned to market which we sometimes get as duplicate plugs.
So here is the manual, i will post it in images and you can copy.
First few are features of joy:-

As requested by shoeb here is the link of album:-
https://picasaweb.google.com/1028663...eat=directlink
After 12 years the pages had become slightly dirty and yellow. So i have to edit the scan before posting. So it took time.
Since now i am well, i will update the ownership post.

Thank You So much for uploading the manual of joy.
Joy has easily removable seat m.In splendor one has to remove the side panels and two 10# bolts,I guess that is for durability and to prevent people from stuffing cloth in air-box intake ?

In splendor, the side panel can be opened with any key, but in joy the seat lock cannot be opened with other key except its original key.

Joy manual

As reported by shoeb some pages are not visible, so i will post it here. Also the missing pages are the hindi version of the pages i have uploaded. So i didn't think to upload it.
Pre-ride inspection:-


Carefully read the run-in instruction. I have followed the same in my all bikes. Present manual doesn't give anything and just writes that do not ride at full throttle for the first few kms-

Pinaki jee Do we have to apply oil inside and outside of the yellow filter....

Yes , apply well inside out , spread it uniformly throughout by squeezing and releasing the foam and rubbing it around , then squeeze out all excess ... as much as is possible to squeeze out by hand . Wipe off with paper . Try watching these three clips on YouTube as an example .

How to Service Kawasaki Foam Air Filters - YouTube

Foam Air Filter Cleaning and Oiling by Yamaha Motor Corp. - YouTube

How to Clean Air Filters in Your Mower (Power Equipment Plus) - YouTube

Few years back I was in US for sometime , and I would often go to the nearby walmart's automobile stuff sections just to check out all the wonderful things available there . You and me could easily spend two months there just checking stuff out . Unfortunately most of the liquid/semi-liquid & other stuff cannot be carried back here owing to flight regulations and paranoia after the twin tower incident .

Actually , you remind me .. I haven't used the choke thingy ever on this bike ... should do that to see if it's working now .
I know that .
No , never try that .. solvent will also wash clean the bore walls of residual oil if that much is used for that long . Then when you try to start the engine , the bore would be damaged by running piston without any lubrication at all .
I think I am getting much carbon formation owing to lugging the bike around here in second gear at 10-20kmph all the time .... damn roads and rickshaws .

Guys Is there any paint available to touch up the rusted portion of the silencer

Post the links when you get time & found them .

I have used 55/60 watt bulb of both Philips & Halonix on my Passion for around 2/3 month before DC conversion , they are far better than 35 watt , but the intensity is not that much as 35 watt gives .

Thanks for the manual .

Several types of paint colors are available in spray , but if it is typical splendor / passion silencer then i think you need to do plating , or try using sand paper to clean the rust but it will make it harsh . Also as sibun suggested earlier you can use Brite-O from pidilite . ( I don't found it yet )

Do you take splendor to your native village ?

(Make sure the engine is sufficiently warmed up.)
Try redlining it in appropriate gear and I am recommending this to you only because I know you are a experienced rider.
(If I recommend this to others they will probably mess up)

IMHO manual De-carbonization at 20k would be best if done by you and not by mechanic.Your bike will run fine without it but doing it will give a little extra smoothness and satisfaction too

In my passion I never faced carbon deposit issue when it was used on highways but carbon deposition is severe within 30k kms of city riding so that means at high engine RPM carbon formation is apparently low.

For some reason my bikes don't like high octane and additives petrol like BP Speed,it made the engine very harsh and I had to drain Rs.250/- worth of petrol and use it for cleaning purpose Rs.80 per liter vs unleaded petrol-Rs.74.90 p/l.
May be compression ratio has something to do with it ?

I try to do all that , but even getting to higher rpm's on lower gear is not possible here owing to the high frequency of clutch and brake and gear-shifting . Net result is that the engine gets lugged often . Once or twice a week I get to ride on the eastern metropolitan bypass road at 70+ but even that's becoming signal-bound and congesty nowadays . Calcutta has quite outgrown itself ...
Yes , I have been taking the Splendor back to my native place for the last few times , since it's more fuel efficient and so easy to ride. CBZ-x feels too heavy to me nowadays(with my advancing age) and tires me out atleast in the city traffic, so it's almost been given away to kid bro now . It's only advantage to me was it's tubeless tyres ; remember that between here and there a puncture means BIG trouble .
Yes I have plans to decarbonise it by myself as soon as I get to 20k kms . I would need all of you guys support then because this is the first time I'd be be-heading an bike engine all by myself and no one else to blame .
Go to a paint-shop that sells automobile paints and ask for heat-resistant black . It's also sold as stove-paint . Clean the area with sand-paper and cloth , then apply red-lead-oxide primer( genuine orange coloured lead paint, not the copper coloured red-oxide ) on it thinly and let that harden for a few days before applying the paint .

I have never decarbonised mine in 102000 KM! The pick-up is still good. I don't know how. But I don't shift to higher gears too soon and normally ride at 50 - 60 KPH, occasionally touching 70.

But on the contrary I used to decarbonise all my previous two strokes every 10K KM.