Sibunji The rating shown in the bottle is SAE 20w-50 JASO MA2,,and meets API specifications SJ,SG,SH

Today i got Platinum Iridium Spark Plug for my fazer and splendor...It is written Platinum iridium centre Electrode...each costs 180/-...Friends any of you tried this plug in your bikes ?

When the Laminated core gets rusted the rust expands and tries to split the core of coil leading to coil damage and hence misfiring..Consequently when the core area expands it also forms crack in the core coil,and allows water and moisture to enter coil area, leading to more internal arcing...This causes the Ignition coil to deteriorate and give lesser firing voltage.

Thanks for the information Ji .

Pinaki jee need one clarification

THis was a reply from a senior member Old Fox in "Air filter cleaning for pulsar"

Bookmarked it.
Please update it,as and when you find time.

If possible post full user manual of joy because I want to read it and know more about joy but first post the maintenance section as MSU needs it.

No , now which plug is this ? Plug's center electrode can be made either of platinum or iridium , not both I think .
I am presently testing out the Champion PRZ7HC against my prior test plug , the NGK CR7-HGP (G-Power) . The Splendor+ manual asks for the NGK CR7-HSA . Good thing is that my best friends kawasaki wind-125 shares the same plug type too .

Quite right . The symptoms on my Yamaha crux was it started and ran good but at high rpms the engine would suddenly bog and die . Restarting was no problem and it ran well again untill I would try to raise the throttle high to overtake something again , and engine killed dang in the middle of the overtake maneuver . The problem aggravated after a rain or on washing the bike . YASS would give back the bike everytime with some other parts changed and assurances . For almost six months it caused me untold frustration and I was not very aware of motorcycle maintenance myself then too . Finally it was solved by replacing that ignition coil thingy . At hindsight, I guess this coil was shorting out only at high voltages during the higher rpms particularly when the coil was physically wet . This occured a few more times on my Yamahas , but by then I knew the symptoms and where to look . Since then, I have painted the exposed metal on all the new replacement coils and ones on the newer CBZ-x & Splendor+ with lead-oxide primer . Shall be checking them again soon too .

This is page 28-29 of my July 2010 Splendor+ owner's manual ... can't say about the pulsar's instructions .



Gear oil was also Honda's instruction for foam filters on all it's bikes that used one (older models) . Newer ones use paper .
As I have mentioned in my air-filter service instructions earlier on this thread , any 20w40 or 20w50 oil works nicely too , but for a shorter while . This is because motor oils are designed to flow well and contain detergents , so they flow off/drip off the foam soon leaving dry spots on it . 2T oil may work better because it is an non-detergent type oil . There are also special extra thick & tacky foam air-filter oils made by Yamalube, Castrol, Bel-ray, No-Toil etc etc but not seen in Indian markets .

Please also note (for folks servicing their bikes at the HeroHonda services) - they use their very own & lovely 10w30 on foam filters , drips off in a week . NOT GOOD .

As for any excess oil dripping off the Splendor's air-filter , you'll find that provision has been made in the air-box design for that too . You can conveniently drain off any oil/water accumulated in the air-box by removing(with a thin-nose plier etc) a rubber nipple kinda stopper (fixed there with spring-clip) present at the bottom of the air-box . All this without opening the box too . Check it please .

Sibun'Jee is absolutely right , and I have told this here earlier too - use of lip grease on the foam is not necessary , however I continue the practice since a long time back just for the principle of the thing . It was my mistake to mention this on a standard maintenance guide kinda post .

From my experience after hearing from Pinaki jee gear oil 90 is better for air filter oiling
What i do is dip the entire filter in gear oil in large mug waits for proper saturation and squeeze out excess oil ,,and refit the element "here mechanics are always against this procedure,,at first what they did was drain petrol from my bike wash the filter vigorously in petrol and keeps in the dirty floor for driying ,,after that the funny part comes ,they pour some engine oil form their oil pump to foam and they dont even spread this oil evenly..we can see oil in large spots in foam...and that morons explanation for this is to increase mileage...and they said we need only 2 - 5ml of oil in the filter,,,,after I got instrucions from Pinaki jee i never gave my bike for this kind of maintenance to this mechanics...

You can get a rectangle plastic dish something like this

Coat it with generous amount of SAE 90 gear oil and then roll the filter on it so that oil gets absorbed by the filter evenly.

Not oiling the filter will make the AFR slightly lean as a result milage increases by 3-4kms but in the long run engine will be damaged.

Hi Pinaki
I'm new here, i'm also the one who do all the works by its own.
I own a CD Dawn age 8 years 11 months, 88000 kms yet.
I love doing mechanical, electrical things also i've a interest on computers hardware software, gaming, trance music, corporate world.....and lot more

Thats just a small intro.....I've read most of your posts & i'd love to talk to u and other people here...

So coming back to the point...
I've used Champion PRZ7HC plug as it is suggested on the manual, its very good one, its a hotter plug (a plug with longer nose is hotter one), dont know about NGK, having using now MICO but not satisfied with it coz its leaving the little carbon on the plug...i'll check the reason behind it, i think its a cooler one, the mixture is not too rich. Also its leaving a little bit red spark, indicated weak spark thats probably happen due to low volts my coil is new its not happening before. Its giving me about 63Km/lt.

and
Hi shoeb2015
I got approval as on 5th....so could you first tell me what wattage of bulb you are using right now? Have you gone through that thread i've created on that forum? I'm very looking forward to use 60W Halogen bulb on my bike now...chances are very likely to be succeed.

Which coil did you replace ?
Is the plug genuine ?(Most MICO plugs available locally are counterfeit)
Did you check the spark strength with champion plug ?
Also check the spark by bringing the plug wire without plug cap near to unpainted surface.


I am using halonix 35watt bulb,after rewinding lighting coil with 20-gauge insulated copper wire,it lights better at low rpms.
Just focusing the headlight correctly will make the roads brighter at night.

Try to get a clamp digital meter and check how much current is generated by your stock lighting coil before doing anything.
60watt is little to much I think because of limited current capacity of the RR,45watt would be the best but it is not available

The rating shown in crbplus bottle is API CF4,,will the presence of detergents in this oil affect the clutch,,what is the drain period?

This is what is written in fazers manual..can i go with 90 wt oil in this foam

Ignition coil about one year ago

Yes its genuine, i've bought two times from the hero honda SC...first time i got Mico UR4A (few yrs back) and now a month ago got a Campion Hi Power K7HP

Not yet but I will

Why did u rewind with 20G if 19G is recommended.
19G is thicker than 20G...the more thicker wire u use u get more amps.
Thinner wire gives u more volts but less current.
Also less number of rotations give more amps & maximum number of rotations give more volts but less current..

Here u've use thinner wire with maximum number of rotations
I guess u must be getting higher volts. let me know that ur figures!

I've tested a 60w bulb directly via bridge rectifier connected with ground & white wire to get full wave...and it was pumping 5 amps & 12 volts. without any load no regulator used. So only thing is left to be tested if i give a power to charge the battery then would be there enough power be available to lighten the bulb...i guess it wouldn't do any problem coz a 2.5 amps battery only needs 260mA to charge it.

@paul-a mico plug is a colder plug so there will be deposit of soot on plug. the recommended plug is cr7hsa from ngk or prz7hc from champion. even denso is available but i forgot the number. the equivalent mico plug is of heat rating 5 but we get 4. so it will always cause soot formation and fouling. moreover using mico plug will never give mileage more than 65 and this is from my experience. use champion or ngk but beware there are more fakes of ngk than original in market. regarding your red firing this is because your cdi charging coil is weak. changing ignition coil is not recommended. the theory is that the charging coil supplies current to cdi and the pulsar coil works as a crank position sensor which signals the cdi to fire. when the cdi fires the current is supplied to ignition coil and the ignition coil is nothing but a transformer. two windings are placed around the metal core. current from cdi enters the primary coil and by magnetic induction the secondary coil supplies current to spark plug. so a ignition coil converts the low voltage current from cdi to high voltage current. so my point is the source is charging coil and if the source is weak then changing the ignition coil will not be any fruitful. so check the charging coil. also cd-dawn was the first bike from herohonda to sport HS1 halogen bulb and had the brightest headlamlp. all others had plain bulb and had pathetic light except ambition(it had plain bulb but was the first bike to sport dc headlamp). although the present generation engine in cd deluxe,splendorpro,passionpro,nxg has the opposite magnet and 8 pole coil and thus have very bright headlight but the cd-dawn has also a bright light. please check your bulb and reflector.i have a photo of new model magnet and i will post in my next post with old model magnet.