You can get the brass/nickel good quality bullet type connectors at auto-electrics shops , auto-electric mechanics , guys who deal with car's and heavy vehicles electrical parts . These connectors are crimped on the clean wire end . A crimp-tool is needed, but you can manage with something similar. For the connection to last, fill the connector base with solder after crimping . Forget the nylon etc insulation , use heat-shrink tube wraps .

Your battery seems to have an acid leak problem , it's not normal . Also for a reliable solder job on these thick wires and terminals, you need a 50-100 watts iron . Araldite/bondtite/yamapoxy 2-part epoxy adhesive available at any building material or hardware shop .
New battery of same type as OE is available for Rs 400 SF-Sonic brand ( made by exide ) . Amaron SMF VRLA is around Rs 800 . Giving the old battery for exchange discount .
Use SKF ball-set on steering cone , it's the best (ask guddu @ oriental auto 9836530716) . HeroHonda OE ball set(small sachet containing the balls only) is available at Bansal motors in wellington(near jyoti cinema hall) - 9331307817 , have you checked there ?

@Pinaki Ji
Do you know of any 2.5-3 Ah battery which has bolt on type terminals ?

For now I have connected the battery directly by soldering and covering with heat shrink tube.I think the connectors of the switch assembly will be a direct fit and of good quality.

What's the price of Motul 3000 4T 20W40 in Kolkata ? I am getting it for Rs.200 (or even less if I get a cash coupon) for a 900 ml bottle here in Hyderabad.

You can get araldite in any hardware store. Just ask them for small packet. Mix the two tube in equal quantity and completely fill such that acid leak will not affect. Next time go for AMARON APX2.5TL battery and be free of tension.
And regarding my DIY then i just try to explain everything in as simple manner as possible. There is no use in getting too much technical when others cannot understand. I know i am technical guy but i do not know whether other guy is technical or not. So i make him understand in as simple language as possible. If i always tell in technical language then there will be no difference in a lecturer and me.
Amaron 2.5 AH has bolt on terminals. Wait i will post a photo of my joys battery.
For those terminals go to any car electrician shop and get those steel connectors. They are slight expensive but are much stronger.
The price of engine oil varies due to VAT and transportation cost. Oil will cost less when they are manufactured near to city than from other places.

That's great. How much does that battery cost ? I will be needing a new battery soon because it is not holding enough charge and it needs frequent top-ups.

We are very lucky to have members like sibun,psr,Pinaki ..... here.

Yes , I as far as I also can remember , the Amaron 2.5AH or 3 AH batteries (SMF VLRA) have those bolt type connectors similar to car battery . But I have seen them few years back only .. Sibun also concurs . You can buy Amaron , it's very good and has 2 years warranty plus additional 2 years pro rata warranty . It is sealed maintenance free battery , so no watering to worry about . But it is quite expensive around Rs 800 and above . On the other hand SF-Sonic battery ( standard furukawa - now owned by Exide India ) is very good regular flooded cell lead-acid costing around Rs 400 . In both cases good shops will give some discount for exchange of the old battery (even kabadiwala gives 40-50 Rs for old battery- they extract the lead) . My preference is lower cost battery because with my short and infrequent riding battery doesn't last more than 2-3 years anyway .... same with more expensive SMF battery too . For the cost of one expensive SMF battery , I can get 2 standard (as given by OE) battery consecutively lasting me more than 4-5 years at least ..

As for those connectors , you can get it from the battery servicing guys too - just snip off those from old discarded battery, clean it and , snip off those on the bikes wiring harness too, and solder it on and heat-shrink the joints( wire color code will not match up though ) . The problem is that with thick automobile wiring the wire metal carries away much of the applied heat , so you need a higher watt iron than used in electronic . I got myself 50-watt solderon iron few months back (when I was thinking about soldering up all the connectors) which is very good for this purpose .

Motul 3000 4T 20w40 is 220 Rs now for 1 lit packs we get here ... minus whatever discount coupon you get under the label .

@Pinaki ji
In pro rata warranty,how much will they give me if the battery fails in third year ? 75% or 50% ?

SF sonic seems to be cheap and good option even if it lasts 2 years.I have seen them to fail lot earlier than that,but it could be due to improper maintenance.
Sibun what according to you would be the best option ?

Yes,I do have a heavy duty 100 watt soldering iron errr... soldering gun which is very good for working on heavy gauge wires. I prefer to use a high wattage gun while working on wires because it release much heat energy without getting itself cooled and making the joint brittle.With a low wattage iron as we hold the iron for longer time to melt the solder,the heat spreads and bakes the insulation .

Do this thing what i'm going to tell u, and i'm 100% sure that terminal is not going to come out again in its whole life or until the battery becomes dead.

First take out that white cap out of it. Then take a drilling machine. Select a 1 cm long thick steel screw first. Then drill on the copper inside with a 2.5 mm or 3 mm drill. Put a washer on a screw and tighten the wire with that screw. And apply some petroleum jelly to prevent any further corrosion.

Such a costless simple easy process and its so reliable solid fix that i'll never create any problem again. No need to go to any battery wala
I've done this with many batteries.

I tried to find it. But didn't get. So i bought a A.R. Petrol Tap for 75, looks like original, really nice quality. But I'm gonna use only that filter

I'd like to know the difference u've noticed between OE clutch and Makino? and How much this cost?

No
look u've done Mechanical Engg and u are a gentleman, don't u? And in hindi gentleman is called as sahib. So ho gya na Engineer Sahib

I tried to find it but can't get, so i told my nearby mechanic to give me any scrapped wiring he have. I'll get lots of those originals with attached wires on it . I've done some wiring modifications so need that also i dont (never) like to cut the stock wires and not like to wrap the wires and tape it, so need those to make it perfect. My battery connectors on stock wirings have also corroded. Actually the -ve one has broken. So will replace that too.


Also search searched for a non adhesive tape, cant get. One is asking for Rs.40 but that is too enough in quantity that i need hardly 10% of it

Happy diwali to all-

Dear Friends ..This is the carbeurator of my yamaha fazer 2004 model>>I want to clean this ..please help me guys to dismantle this..

AS I remember not so correctly I bought this battery around late 2009.


Thanks for the detail info Pinaki Jee.

Didn't know the SF-Sonic Brand, will try to find good one. 3-4 month ago exide same battery cost 625/- in my locality (North 24 Pgs) which 50 /- discount may or may not be available in exchange of OLD bat.


Didn't check at Bansal about HH OE Ball by myself though (I will soon), but the retail shop who claim HH stop supplying the product is solely depended on Bansal Motors, Every HH stuff he sold his shop are the product of Bansal M & he brought it from them as wholesale rate and make his living.

Thanks for the info.

Thanks paul.1911...seems like permanent solution, I do access of drill machine, but....Wish I can able go such deeps in this tech field.

--------------

Wish you all Happy Diwali 2012.

I don't know that , maybe the amaron distributor has chart or something like that . If I may muddle the affair altogether for you , another alternative is to use two(2X) 6volt SMF battery in series , those are commonly found in electronics shops (two black colour 6v smf batteries exactly fits in the place of one 2.5ah 12 that we got as OE on our bikes) . One electronics repair guy I know does just this on his Splendor. He claims it works perfectly, costs less , lasts much longer and if a cell-short/malfunction occurs , you can just replace the one offending battery and save cost .

This is UCAL/Mikuni CV type carburetor . It has more parts than our Keihins and takes more time to do . Moreover in the last UCAL carburetor I tried (bajaj wind-125) , I was unable to remove either the bowl drain screw or the float-fixing screw , even with large screwdrivers and lots of force . I gave up , just cleaned the bowl and jets and put it back together like that - it's running ok . And this was with a brand new carburetor . Water had entered it from fuel tank . I am not impressed with the quality of UCAL and I can now really appreciate our simple Keihin's quality . You can do it , but exercise caution and go slow . Start by dismounting it from the bike , clean it externally with kerosene , toothbrush and rags , and trying to dismantle the float-bowl at the bottom . Good thing is since this is Yamaha's , you'll find the required parts at the ASC , unlike the Bajaj ones , where they ask you to replace the whole thing , just because they don't have any spare o-ring gasket for it .

That is 3 years and about time to replace it ...

SF SONIC : SF Sonic Products : SF Sonic Powerbox - 15 month warranty .

SF-Sonic also has SMF battery ...

SF SONIC : SF Sonic Products : SF Sonic Super Rodeo - 3 years warranty .

Today I again found these wedge fitting (T10?) 12V LED at the bike shop , Rs 10 each .. can these be used in place of the neutral lamp(DC) and flasher indicators(DC) inside the meter housing , instead of those tiny filament lamps there ?

Man its very easy. u can do even if u dont know how to drill. There are numerous of information available on the google & youtube. Then what u need just nothing but a drill and a screw.




Thats all u need. There is no technical. You just need to drill it and screw. Both are very cheap and easily available.
Dont think like u cant do, just do it even if u are going to buy a new one. Coz once u do it now, it'll help u later to do it again.

Just drill it first with a thinner drill and try screwing it, if u feel it is going very tight and u cannot tighten completely. Take a another drill to make the hole slightly loose. And if u, by mistake made it excess loose, if screw slips, then change the screw to more thicker thats all. No problem!

and if u think if screw thread will gone damage. Let me tell u it will not, ever, because those screws doesn't need thread to tighten. It makes their path inside their own. Do it man! I want u to do.

Yes it can be use, but according to me there is no use replacing those. Because how long the neutral bulb will glow? It will off once u shift a gear. And how long those flash indicators bulbs glow? Just for a few seconds when u turn... saving energy for just a few seconds is not going to make any sense according to me (pls dont take in as a offense) that was just an my opinion. Yes using it in a odo meter or fuel meter (which is going to glow continuously) is a good way.
Like i've done it. 11 1/2 watt leds on a odo meter make it looks awesome.



I changed high beam indicator to led, without buying that 12v type of led (u can see its small type one) and that glows with headlight ac to dc conversion. Rest with battery. No changes were made to the stock wiring, no wire cut, no damage.

DIY will come soon

Very nice ! , now tell me about the AC to DC conversion part - because those smaller LEDs don't live long on 12 V AC - tried that already .

Used IN40007 Diode to convert ac to dc, then a capacitor 25v 100uf to 1000uf (any valve more than 100 will do, more the valve the more bigger, the more it will hold charge. and the led will not flicker in low rpm) and last a 1k resistor u know that.
But why do u want to convert to dc. Do a direct connection with ignition and add a separate switch.