Also take some pictures of pressure plates because i want to know to how to inspect pressure plates if they have gone bad or not.
also the height of original OE springs for sure.

Where i can see the pic of your led tail light?

Paul nice led mod , i have simply replaced the bulbs there with T10 smd led's . And provided supply from battery .

Clutch plate replacement Pictures



(I was unable to take Re-assembly pictures because the battery died at last moment.)

Oh my gosh ! you did it all by yourself kya ?? Amazing work & pics !
It would be great if you can resize the pics(480x360) and post it with step by step instructions here . Omitting re-assembly is fine . Did you find anything obviously wrong or suspicious in there ?
Your Splendor is same colour as mine and looks uncannily familiar .

This job looks complex because I took many pictures,any roadside mechanic will change the clutch plates for Rs.50/-.It is a very simple and easy job if you have the right tools and time. I had to struggle a little bit without clutch holder,did a jugaad and used magneto holder.

I will be posting the instructions soon.
Did you see how clean the engine is ? Within 650 kms,the oil (Shell AX7) has turned slightly dark because of detergents I think.
Clutch pressure plate springs were very weak,now the clutch lever feels very firm and hard.

Special nut tool costs Rs.120/-

Pinaki da, are you talking about the 'reflector' tapes that ppl put round their alloys' exterior? Or is it something that is like a flat-rubbery tape that covers the central part of your alloy (inside)?

You are welcome to post your process as many members will be benefited and this method can be used on unicorn/extreme/hunk or any other bike.However i would like to correct one method i.e by which you fitted the clutch plate. I will tell you more easier process.
And regarding oil i have told many times in this forum that there is no other oil that has better detergent than shell oils. Shell oils have the best detergent among all and i have been using SHELL VSX 7 semi-synthetic for close to 3 years. My engine is always clean and even when engine was opened there was no need to wash the interiors with kerosene.
But since shell oil have more detergents, many think that they go bad soon as they get dark soon. But the oil has not gone bad, but the engine is cleaned and the oil has suspended all the dirt and thus looking bad. SHELL VSX 7 is the best semi-synthetic oil that you can get at that price and shell is also OEM to many companies worldwide. Use shell and get a clean engine.

And regarding springs, non OE springs will feel hard and will also be of equal height but once it goes through heating and cooling cycle in engine they loose their temper and loose spring constant. For your information let me tell you that at the point when you are just releasing the clutch, i.e the point at which your bike is beginning to pull and the clutch is slightly slipping or coming in contact the temperature shoots up to 1000 degree centigrade.That is the reason why it is advised never to use clutch while riding. Also that is the reason clutch is always bathed in oil to loose heat, and dry clutch easily gets damaged by slipping but wet clutch last longer even though they are slipped by many who ride bikes.


Yes, it is the tape that you apply inside of rim. It is applied in spoke wheels and not alloy wheels. I usually use tapes made of cut pieces of old tube rather than cotton tapes.The old tube is cut in thin strips and is made slightly shorter than dia of the wheel and then both ends are pasted and then put over the spokes in rim. Suitable hole is made for valve to pass.

shoeb very good DIY , but some words definately required .
BTW check the last words of link you posted "eat=directlink" LOL

Today I found that my bike key removable when it is running the engine or neutral light on. My question/doubt, Is it possible to unlock the bike with any key/metal object when the bike is in public parking lot ? Other 2 lock such as seat lock and the plastic locker lock don't have this problem....From those 2 locks key can't be remove other than the removable postion.

Is there anyway to fix this problem without much invest ?

here is picture, neutral on and I can remove the key easily.

Can I ask why? Even used kerosene for cleaning car's throttle body..

Yes I know that it is wrong method to install the plates,I took the last few pictures in hurry as the low battery indicator popped up.
The correct method is to install the plates on the clutch center and then clutch rear and then install it as a unit inside the clutch housing while the gear in in neutral. Please share your method.

Is there any way to remove the clutch cover without removing the exhaust pipe ? I tried to slide in a #17 flat wrench but then the bolts were too tight and I was unable to get that amount of leverage.

Now the bike touches 60 kmph with just a touch of throttle on a non-inclined road.

OT
Do you want me to post the pictures of My Indigo's clutch plates ? The friction disc was worn down to the rivets but even then it did not slip. We Had to replace it because the pressure plate had hardened over time and increased the effort to operate the clutch. You can call it luck because another 5kms on this plate would have meant bye-bye flywheel.

I think it is because of worn out lock.
BTW,Is that a silver colored 2001 passion ? My uncle's passion also faces that same problem and I can use my splendor's key to unlock it.(although with a little extra force)
Replacing all the locks would mean a expense of Rs.650
OR
Just the ignition lock costs Rs.320 but then you will need to carry two separate keys for ign lock, tank and seat.

It is because the key and lock is worn.
Yes, it can be opened by other keys, my lock set has been like that from many days but i do not change it. Instead i use a chain and pad lock to secure the bike as the ignition lock is not trust worthy so use different lock set but instead continue with same and use a secondary lock to secure the bike.
Kerosene is not recommended because although kerosene is excellent degrease agent but kerosene is corrosive and also eat into the aluminum. Although it is not immediately visible but with regular washing it will show. Also carburettors have very minute passage and as kerosene goes inside it it doesn't evaporate and will cause problem while tuning. Washing with petrol will ensure that no passage is blocked and instead the carburettor is clean and responds better.

No...it is a 2001 Red Passion (2pic I shared earlier are below), Yes...the tank/seat/plastic locker --- all are perfect condition. Sure the handle-ignition lock worn out, I think key maybe ok..else other lock behaved same.

I got spoke lock installed since 2001, those days this bike was very attractive after CBZ and Fiero (compact light) style (only this 3 bike got those modern looks),

but using the spoke-wheel lock (must able to align the spoke with shock absorber) that in a narrow roadside parking is very cumbersome job here in kolkata.

Any decent steel cable lock available ? Company ? Recommendation ?

No , not those reflector tapes etc . Sibun has already replied informatively to your query , I can only add that good quality mrf branded rim tapes are also available and I use those . It is an important part in a wire-spoke wheel with a tubed tyre and of less concern in cast wheels I think .

On my bike when they removed the clutch side crank-cover they did not need to remove either the exhaust or the pillion-footrest etc . Only the kick-lever was removed . As far as I can tell , even I can do that without removing the exhaust with my #8 socket attached to L-handle . A #17 ? Where ?
Thanks - so I'd need to get that clutch-bolt socket and a clutch holder .
And if your keep to 2000 km oils changes , any damn oil will keep your engine clean like that forever .

See , kerosene is a very safe , high-flashpoint solvent and good for most cleaning duties in and around a motorcycle . It has very good cutting action on gummed up oil and greasy dirt too . But think of the insides of a carburetor - the gum inside it is deposited from petrol itself and has not been dissolved away by the constant flow of petrol through it . So it is unlike to be cleaned well and easily with kero/petrol and here I prefer an even stronger solvent - something like acetone(carb cleaner) works best . Iso-propyl alcohol (rubbing spirit) works well too . On parts where you can reach with a toothbrush (not the narrow orifices and channels) , a good brushing with hot-water and pril dish-wash/tide works very good too - only get it properly dry afterward . Another thing I noticed is that I can reach inside the tiny holes and passages easily with a burst of the aerosol carb-cleaner spray and the supplied nozzle extension . Only caveat is that you have to remove all rubber & plastic parts before you use carb-cleaner , acetone degrades those materials .

I tightened my drive chain and lubed it with USHA machine oil - just for the sake of experimenting. I wish to know whether it will have any adverse effects on the chain/sprocket? It (the oil) is very thin though and I think I may have to lube the chain again within 2/300 kms. But noise and vibrations have come down significantly! (as in the case of a freshly lubed chain/sprocket). Oh and FYI - my Hunk's chain is of Diamond make.

P.S. Sorry for the re-post of the query (I have posted the same on the Xtreme/Hunk thread too)