Re boring is good but should be done if it done on a boring machine.Re-boring gives a tighter fit and more compression thus more pick-up. However i request you to go for new bore kit and the new ones are coming from usha. So go for OE and no tension. Get from service center as there are lots of duplicate floating in market.
Yes, bikes must always be idled for couple of hours after engine re-built.
It is done because:-
1. New engine are just fitted and the parts have not mated. So idling for a couple of hours will set the parts in.
2. After idling for 2 hours, the engine is let to rest for 1 hour. It is this heating and cooling will cause the valves,rings to seat properly
3. After idling for 2 hours some carbon will have build up on piston and thus tuning after it will be perfect than on a new engine.
4. When you let it idle then the idling will increase every 15 mins and you have to decrease it. It is because as the engine runs it gets free and also the rings seal better. This is also a reason why engine must be idled.After two hours of idling isling will stop increasing.

After changing the clutch plates, my clutch lever is also feeling very heavy/hard.It was very light before the clutch change. What could be the reason ?

How frequently do you clean and service the brake shoes ? My ANL shoes is lasting more than a OE non-asbestos type.

Any reason for suggesting Paul to use OE clutch plates ?

At what RPM is the engine idled after re-building? Is this the reason why your joy performs excellent even after two overhauls ?

Clutch plate feeling heavy and hard after clutch change. I have never faced this. Check your free play and also a common problem with splendor clutch is that the clutch nut opens how much you tighten. The solution for clutch nut opening is that, no matter how much you tighten with socket, in the end, take a pointed punch and strike hard on the nut tightening it 2-3 times. But let me ask my mechanic as i have never faced this problem.
I never clean my brakes after assembly as my running is very high and usually in running it cleans itself.

Actually, i suggested him OE clutch plates because since he is doing the first time let him use OE plates. And also my MAKINO plates are gone but it is because of my usage. I have previously posted the photos of site that i visit for my work. See i visit 4-5 sites which are building bridges on river. On the days i visit the sites i never take the extreme as it is useless in those roads. So i take my Joy. Usually at those sites i have to ride for 1-2 kms on sand and dry river bed with the rear wheel digging and i pulling hard in fast gear. So you can imagine how hard it will be on clutch.
So my plates are gone after 12k.

The engine should be idled at 1400 rpm. You should idle such that the idling is sufficiently high and the strokes are uniform.
When you idle a new engine after every 15 mins idling will increase and you have to decrease it. After 2 hours idling will stop increasing. This happens because engine is getting free and also rings are sealing and increasing compression.
This is also a reason why idling is necessary which i forgot to add.

It is not the reason but my bike performs excellent because no matter how much times you re-built engine the quality of works depends.

I think what you told about the clutch center nut is true because last time when I did not have this special tool,I used a punch and hammer it to tighten it.
Please do confirm it with your mechanic.

@sibun, @honda_cbf
'one oil' is a phrase as is 'ek oil' (hindi - if i may use this phrase, pardon my hindi) , 'oru oil' (tamil) meaning 'one part oil' i.e. 25ml

And oh yes the bikes that were rebored were always left to run at idle for a good 1hr after a rebore work - observed this at my mech and had done the same on my rx100 a few yrs ago.

Clutch plates are judged for fitness for use by their flatness and thickness . For the flatness , the plate is placed and pressed on a glass table or sheet and feeler gauges passed under it's edges on all sides . And thickness is then measured with micrometer screw-gauge . But for all this to be useful , we would need the factory tolerance limits for flatness & thickness of the plates . Anyone obtained a service manual yet , please ?

Carefully think back if any silly mistakes made in re-assembly . One part placed wrong way (in reverse) etc can cause such a problem with the clutch . Firstly ,take out clutch cable wire completely , clean and refit . If too worn , replace it . Don't oil the clutch cable or wire (did you do that ? - that makes the clutch very hard & tight too) .
One amateur mechanic adjusted clutch too tightly without free-play during the last brake-service without my knowledge . Clutch lever was very hard to press and engine heating up . Now lubed and adjusted it all . Both my clutch lever and brake levers are now very light .
With asbestos brake shoes I have very long relationship - I open wheel and clean the drum and sandpaper the shoe once every six months or so . Gives me opportunity to check all the things in the wheels too . My rear brakes wears twice as fast .

As u told, i inspect clutch bell and there is very very slight play in opposite direction and no play on pulling outwards.
Pressure plate and outer plate are fine. GPT is also good.

I also took to my mechanic and told him about the problem. He said clutch plates are need to be replace.
Actually, when i release the clutch the bike moves forward without any problem, but when pressure was about to release completely it create jerks. Also when bike slows down, without using clutch if i accelerate the same noise come again and engine is like about to stall... then i need to press the clutch again, to release the pressure slowly where the pressure ends.

My mechanic detect the problem on the spot. He put the clutch on a flat surface and it was not straight, slightly bend he showed me.
I came back home and checked again. Yes i found two clutch plates slightly bend.

He said that was because of the top 4 #10 bolts. They are not tightened in criss cross pattern.

I found groves in a clutch bell held by clutch plates.



Is that a problem? I wish it shouldn't be. If that can be run in a that way then it would be a good news for me coz a replacement of a chain sprocket is also waiting in my replacement list

I couldn't understand why a guy who is doing first time should use OE clutch? why not Makino?

Please suggest what should i do with a clutch bell. If its really needs a replacement then should i give a try first? or if i file it make it plain surface?? I'll only go for new one if i dont have any option coz for me 1061 is not easy to spend for such things which really doesn't create any problem.

So, what do u think where does the problem actually lies?? If bush, GPT gears, inner outer pressure plates and steel plates are fine.

Does a clutch plate or a grooves on a clutch bell (by clutch plates) was the cause to the problem??

The jerk was more on heavy load also when i cross a bump i need a press & release clutch two times.

Edit: While tightening clutch center special nut, do i need to use clutch center tool?
and does a clutch bell (housing) available without gears? I've seen RICO 198 is written on clutch housing
If i can get, i can save some bucks.

I measured the thickness and it is 2.90 mm whereas, it should not be less than 2.6 mm. Height of the clutch springs 25.55 mm. Clutch bell inner diameter shouldn't exceed 21.09 mm, mine was 20.xx mm, clutch outer collar 20.91 mm

I use to wash in kerosene. Actually the inner cable cannot be taken out, so i inject kerosene to come out from other side. And leaved under the sun until become dry. And if we dont lubricate it, does it not get junk from inside?? I use fork oil because its lighter. But i need a get some spray lubricator. May be WD40 i think.

When we press clutch lever the springs gets compressed and because new clutches are more thicker, causes the springs to get more compressed. And compressing a thing which is already compressed will surely feel hard.

OE HeroHonda clutch cable is friction-free type with some kind of polymer coating on the inside . If any oil or lubricant is used in friction-free cable it jams,becomes hard to pull and soon breaks . At least it was so when I used to buy HeroHonda clutch cables for fitting in my enfield bullet long time back . The bike was adapted to use this cable because it made the hard bullet clutch operation very very smooth . At that time I was not so much into the mechanicals of bikes , but I distinctly remember that the bullet mechanic forbade me to use any oil etc on the cable ever after it was fitted . I have not purchased spare clutch etc cables yet for this Splendor+ I have now , so I don't know now if herohonda has changed the part like they have done with some other costly components of the bike . Other's please confirm . Friction free cables shall have a warning on the pack saying this .

@paul- the clutch housing is seriously damaged. But nothing to worry. No need of spending Rs.1061,just take it to a good lathe and tell him to replace the aluminum section and rubber bushes. He will do it for Rs.200.Yes, you have observed right, the aluminum section is available separately of the housing with its bushes and repeats to fix it. Any good lathe can do it as they do it regularly. Consult your mechanic and overhaul the housing. This will make the aluminum housing new and also no play in housing. Do it as if you do not then your clutch will again give problem after 10k.
If you had been nearby, then i would have given you my old clutch housing as it had the gears worn but the aluminum section are good as new. You could have used the aluminum section from my old housing.
But get a new section of housing be it from rico or Makino and take the old housing and the new section to lathe and he will do it.

The reason for your clutch judder is bent plates and those grooves on the housing. The clutch plates got bent because of those grooves not allowing the clutch to move freely. Get it overhauled for Rs.200-250. Take the help of your mechanic to get a good lathe.

Thanks a lot sibun
Now i got what to do.
If I would have opened this before. I could get your housing because my parents was in Bhubneshwar yesterday.
and my bro in Bhubneshwar is also coming after 10 days. But I cant wait too long

I've checked one steel plate is also looking very slightly (almost negligible) bent. So thinking if i should change the set or not.

Change the set of clutch plates and pressure plates.

Nothing to worry. Get a new section of housing. Is your brother regularly staying in bhubaneswar. If yes, next time come with him and we will be able to meet.

Yes he is doing engg in GIFT (Gandhi Institute For Technology) college. I'm thinking to drive to u man because i want to show my bike to u . lets see when the will come.

But i've already visited to u once.

see the post #1367

Gift college is only 10 km from my house by the side of NH-5. Nice to know about your brother.My friend's father is administrative officer in GIFT, so any problem in college contact me. Even any problem in campus placement contact me.
Any day you are welcome.

Nice to know that. If i would need anything, i'll tell u to give to my bro. And will so do i if u need.
Thanks, now its time to start my work.
Bye