Silly question but did you check if the spark-plug was firing or getting current ?

Try to re-create the same conditions by washing even more vigorously !

Check the black wire with red stripe and blue wire with white strip which can be found below the RH panel. Make sure it is not getting grounded/shorted to ground by water.

Remove the petrol tank and inspect ignition coil and its wires upto CDI,check for any corrosion on it and its connectors.

Less likely to happen but worth checking it out-
When I told you last time,did you check the ign. switch connector ? This time open the HL fairing and pour some water on the ign switch lower cylinder,if the bike shutters then you will have to open it and clean it.

Good luck,check out the one in bold first if you don't have time.

No , could not do that - too much traffic and haste to reach . Probably had tried that if it didn't start up in 30secs of trying .
Yes , as you adviced last time(during monsoon) I took off the front bikini-fairing and checked that - no obvious corrosion or loose connects . Can't say if it's shorting when wet - yes , I have to pour water in there to check - which I didn't dare yet . But would the green neutral lamp turn on when key is turned on , if it was short ?
As Sibun had adviced , I had also cleaned out the carb that time (which was already pretty clean when opened) .
Have checked Ignition coil to spark plug - you remember I asked you how to unscrew the wire from both ends ( ignition-coil & plug-socket) ?
Removal and cleaning of petrol tank is pending since monsoon - soon .
Ok , I'll check those wires ... and all the others too .

After all How many pages do we have to forget ? I remember each and everything.
Last time it was idling issue,This time it is sudden shutting off of the engine. That was after it got wet before the accident/incident and this time it is after vigorous cleaning. I will link it up and let you know what else needs to be checked tomorrow,until then please check out the points I mentioned especially the ignition coil.
To isolate the area of suspected short,wash each area separately.

EDIT: Was the idling issue solved after cleaning the carburetor ? Carb breather tube is in its place ?
O ! Pinaki Ji,diagnosing this problem would have been much easier had you checked the spark in the first place. Would have at-least saved us from the trouble of finding out whether it is a fuel related issue or electrical.

paul and pinakiji problems solution

@paul- you just shift the needle to 2nd from top and re-tune the carb. I will post details of tuning various parts of carburettor afterwards in noon as now i do not have so much time to explain in detail. From the pictures you have posted your needle is running rich and you are leaning it excess by tuning air screw. Shift the needle and re-tune the air screw where high rev is obtained. I will post the detail at noon.Also from the picture you have posted, your spark plug is gone due to excess carbon. Clean it and see or change it.
@pinakiji- From the problem that you have posted it looks like a problem of spark plug cap. Just do the following experiment:-
1. Pour water on spark plug cap.
2. Start the bike. See if mis firing occurs
3. If misfiring occurs then open the plug cap and blow air through mouth to dry it on both sides.
4. Re-fit and check if misfiring dis-appears then the cap is faulty.
Go for new cap and OE and not SWISS. EVEN in OE go for black one and not red one. Red one is for DC CDI bikes and not our bikes.
Most of the problems of mis firing are connected with faulty cap.

Great , This thing comes only from experience which I sorely lack. I could never learn because it never happened with me.
Just now I tried to recreate the same conditions by washing the area near the plug cap with water and the bike(Passion) refused to start. Just cleaned it and it works fine.
I don't know whether the supplier of plug cap has changed but definitely my splendor's original cap is much better than what we get now.

If this works which I am more than 100% sure it will work,I would be left without words to praise SIBUN.

@ Pinaki , I am eager to know the result.

Thanks guys , I'll try it by the weekend . btw , how much is the OE plug cap ? Last time I noticed that the screw fixed inside the cap (that screws into the plug cable) was quite rusty . The similar screw on the ignition coil ( that screws into the plug cable too - at the other end ) was shiny and galvanised nicely . So maybe I'll just directly buy a new plug-cap and run . But I do solemnly swear that if I get one more electrical gremlin , i'm gonna hard-wire (solder) every darn connector on any bike I ever get .
Splendor is running splendidly as ever since then , no recurrences .

I have never seen or witnessed any kind of electrical problems our two hero bikes. Unlike other bikes,the wiring harness and connectors used in Hero are of very good quality.
As Sibun mentioned it must be some small thing which is causing this issue.OE cap should cost around Rs.30-40/-. I suggest you to pour water and make sure the bike shutters before you replace it anyway. This way you will be satisfied that it was the plug cap which was faulty.

Checked average mileage after replacing spark,cleaning air filter.Got 69 kmpl.
Used to get only 50 usually.Will check again and post.
Thanks to all guys in this thread who made me at least see,touch and clean the filter myself!

@all- Tomorrow i am going for my new job training, i may not be able to reply to your messages but i can access it from my phone and view it. Previously i was replying from my phone, but sadly with the new upgrade of XBHP, i cannot reply from my phone. However i can browse and log in so can view it. If any body has any urgent query you can message me on my phone, you can get the numbers from SHOEB2015 and paul.1911. Also you can call me after 5 pm. I will try to reply if i have access to PC and net.

Hi guys
Today i de-carbonized (the main problem was smoking) my friend passion plus, and everything gone right. It was about getting dark in the evening so i fitted the head, and filled with Shell Advance AX7
But later I saw that, right from the up to the clutch side and to the down side, there was engine oil came out from the bore packing...
Don't why there was so much oil. I told my friend to clean it, and to check any further leaking.
But if that leak was real. Then would i also need to drain oil before replacing bore packing??

And other than castrol, what would be the cheap and best oil for Air filter lubricating?

After a few heating and cooling cycles,check for any loose head bolts and nuts.At no time over-tighten it. If it doesn't work out then you know the method which sibun told you.
Did you loosen the cylinder side bolt while removing head ?

I have tightened head bolts perfectly in criss cross. Will try to tight when hot.
No i didn't touch the block, nor i loosen the block side bolt
Only head side bolt opened.
I asked do need to drain oil if replacing actually need by chance?

If you let some time(an hour or more) for all the oil to drain back to the sump , you can easily get by without draining or oil change . Later after job is complete and engine runs for sometime check oil level as usual and top-up if necessary(usually not) . Do not allow debris or foreign matter fall in the engine parts(the head etc) . Check if the mating surfaces of the head-to-cylinder block is clean and has no visible scratches - that causes oil leak . It's easy to make such scratches inadvertently while removing the old gasket by scraping with metal tools .
You can use any fresh 20w40/20w50 mineral engine oil for the air-filter foam .

Sorry,I did not read your query properly.
No need to drain the engine oil and the old gasket will come out very easily.

Take care of the following points:-
Make sure you stuff some old clean cloth into the crankcase while removing the gudgeon pin circlip.
Replace the bore O-ring.
Copper washer goes on to the lower left head nut(It holds the entire oil pressure of the head).
Apply some sealant on the timing chain guide' bolt's washer.

@Pinaki
How is your splendor running now ? Did you test the plug cap ?

@ Detective Mr Pinaki
The oil leak was from bore packing, i.e, the packing between crank chamber and block. Not from head packing.
No starches have been done to the block or head mating surfaces. Everything was cleaned & fitted with 100% cleanness & accuracy and have no problem with that.

@ Shoeb
The main problem with this passion was smoking. The bike had clocked 36700 kms. Compression is good. Smoke was not visible. Head packing was leaking. So i suspect that was a problem.
So the things i changed is head packing, head o-ring, spark plug and valve oil seals & lapped the valve slightly. Top cover & both side cover packing replaced.
I cleaned the bore and checked with torch and found no symptom of scratch or worn.
So i hope now the smoking problem would have solved. Will come to the final confirmation after checking the spark plug for any oil again.

Just asking for my knowledge.
1) If block is re-bore then does con rod replacement is necessary? Does bore last as long as NEW bore kit??

2) If NEW bore kit is installed does con rod replacement is necessary if all the measurement done correctly i.e, clearance between piston dowel pin & piston, and between dowel pin and con rod... and all the clearance does not exceeded the service limit. Then would it be safe to use old con rod??

3) If replacing the con rod. Does whole engine needs to be opened???

Edit:
Also want to know, how to change the o-ring of clutch arm?
Does need to open the cover, or it can be change from outside?