Those ASC guys will also suggest u to need to take it to the lathe.
That bolt doesn't need to be overtightened, i'm using gasket sealant every time i open it, and a slight tight do their job. Even i've used the same washer so many times. It didn't yet damaged.
Don't look over to the temperature changes, expansion or anything, just apply it, slight tight it and see the results. They are made to handle the high temperature up to 200'C.
It is also used in head gasket the most hottest part of engine.

Why do you think the entire engine needs to be opened ? They just tilt the bike and drill next oversize,use a special thread sleeve . (which can prevent oil leak)
At most only the clutch cover will be opened to remove any metal shavings.

@windride
Go to any good lathe and just point out the bolt and he will do the needful (without you even telling him drain bolt thread has gone bad).They do this frequently because drain bolt thread gets damaged easily.
Always use a new crush washer every alternate oil change(or every oil change) as this washer serves dual purpose.

Because in my case, mechanic had opened the whole engine.

Yes , it seems very much like your drain-bolt thread is stripped . It usually happens from overtighten of the drain bolt . With a ring-wrench and used washer , between 1/8th to 1/4 of a full turn after finger tight would be about right . With new(uncrushed - just taken out of package) aluminium washer , between 1/4 to 1/2 of full turn (after finger tight) would be just right tight . But now all this is late wisdom for you , sorry about that .

The repair is not difficult for a competent mechanic or the Hero ASC - it is a common mistake and they do scores of such repairs . They'll take the engine to a lathe operator who inserts a coiled steel thingy called "helicoil" into the hole and thus mends it on lathe . Any debris falling into the oil sump is at it's very bottom and unlikely to make it's way into the main engine circulation through the mesh filter and the centrifugal . Still , better to fill with a cheap oil and do 2 oil changes in quick sucession after the repairs . Or even better clean out by removing the clutch side engine cover (as Shoeb said) . It is an inexpensive and a very reliable repair - no problems . Do not run the bike indefinitely on the jugaad - most it takes is a day of your time and some money . Use a new OE(purchased from Hero dealer) washer and bolt and pay attention to correct tightning everytime in future .

Do not go to that mechanic again , he did a very unsound thing - tightented an already overtightened drain bolt . What he should have done is replace the bolt and aluminium washer with new , tightened it just right(correct torque) and asked you to keep checking for further leaks if any .

Damn right - even I haven't changed mine since purchase - shall do it during this months oil change for sure .

Have covered close to 150 kms over the last 4 days with the jugaad in place. No leak seen. Happy with that. But will definitely enquire with ASC soon with the tips given here.
Thanks for the very helpful replies to my query.

Thats right!! It is a very important thing to follow during oil change....we tend to tighten and over tighten that washer which has already been crushed during first use and then tighten it further which can not only causes oil leak but also damages the drain bolt along with threads. that washer hardly costs 2 Rs and must be changed during each oil change.

Regarding that drain bolt washer, if you tighten the bolt properly then no need of changing washer. My principle to tighten the bolt, tighten it by finger and after it is tightened by finger, just hold the wrench by two fingers and give a small jerk. More than enough.
Changing that washer, you all will be surprised to know that my first washer was changed at second engine overhaul. The second washer that was fitted at 2nd engine overhaul is still going strong at 40k after overhaul.

I was looking for the bulb for my bike, have heard lot about Philips Premium, it is best. Yes it is really. But is there any other bulb which is better than Philips Premium? To find the answer I did some research. It took me more than two weeks to find the best possible bulb and at last I end-up with Osram Silverstar 64185SVS and I'm very happy with the performance of this bulb.


If u see on the back, its written, it produce 50% more light than normal Halogen Bulb, also it has +20m longer beam than normal halogen bulb. All of this is true.

Here its technical data got from its website.


Normal Halonix bulb outputs at 805/840 lumen
Bosch outputs at 825/525 lumen
No data found for philips.
and this Osram bulb outputs at 875/545 lumen

Since, this bulb output more lumen therefore i choose this.

Why Osram?
Because in lots of forums i've seen people discussing and comparing Philips & Osram. Where Osram is the mostly considered in terms of light output and life.
I'm just posting a piece of information about halogen bulbs.

The best thing i like about Osram that it has all the technical information available at its website, but philips doesn't contain any information rather than dimensions of the bulb.
Osram also have numerous number of choices available at HS1 (35/35W) to choose right from 'Osram original line' to 'Silverstar, X-Racer and Night Racer Plus or Night Breaker' but in Philips at HS1 35W only Philips Premium is there available which says 30% more light than normal halogen bulb. No +50 or +90 Efficacy bulb is there at 35W.

Osram Original Line is a regular OEM bulb with 3200K @ 820/520 lm
+50 Silverstar 3200K @ 875/545 lm
+90 Night Racer Plus 3200K @ 820/520 lm (slightly white)

Osram super & Philips Premium are "Plus+30" bulb.
Osram Silverstar & Philips VisionPlus are "Plus+50" bulbs.
Philips Xtreme Power and Osram Night Breaker are both "Plus+80"/"Plus+90" bulbs.

That Philips Xtreme Power and Osram Night Breaker are nothing but have blue tinted glass which throws white light and have less lumen.
Any of the blue-glass "extra white" bulbs are an absolute nonstarter as far as seeing better is concerned. Sylvania Silverstar/Ultra, PIAA, Hoen, BlueVision, CrystalVision, TruView, Nokya, Polarg, etc. -- all a scam. Such bulbs produce significantly less light than a standard bulb.

Then why they say as +80 or 90 Efficacy?
I found one catalog on white light from Philips website. A selected piece of information is here..




On the first image information, it has been told that white light is better. And driver response is better than yellow light in both acceleration and braking. but in actual its is not.
On the second, u might have read the word 'contrast' that is what confusing thing is here.
No bulb at normal color temperature can be a 90% more efficacy, it will not last at all. In white light human eyes think it as a more light but technically it contains less luminous. It looks to human eyes that it has more lumen thats all. Human eyes can detect things better in yellow light. That is why it is best for both fog and rain driving.

One example is in your own home, how a 40w tube light throws 2 times more light than normal yellow 100w bulb!, its also energy efficient.
All CFL's are says as a power saver, but its nothing. A 20w CFL gives more light than 60w bulb. So a power consumption is of only 20w giving u more light than of 60w bulb. Hence 30w power saved!
Now i think u got what is +90 Mega High Efficacy.

All +80/90 are a re-brand of their +30 & +50 Efficacy bulb.
A +90 Osram Night Racer Plus is a re-brand of +50 Osram Silverstar, also Osram Night Racer cost about Rs.900 were i bought Silverstar for Rs.140.

As I was wanted Plus+50 bulb with yellow light, Osram Silverstar was the only choice, +50 Philips Vision Plus is only available for cars which has white light.

Now the law of diminishing returns applies here: there is a significant improvement in beam performance when going from a long-life to a standard bulb, an equally significant improvement when going from standard to +30, a smaller improvement when going from +30 to +50, and a smaller improvement still when going from +50 to +80/+90.

Here is nice piece of information got from one website. I have just copied and pasted here.
Here is the pic


Its true that this bulb have longer beam, and you can detect the object more even far from this u are seeing in the picture.
You can easily blind on coming traffic with this bulb. But thats not good, you shouldn't, you should use deeper.


Here is just a pic of my Osram Silverstar filament, high beam & low beam.


I also have done comparison between +30 Philips Premium (got from my friend) & +50 Osram Silverstar. See the difference.


Is it looking same to u? Or you have detected the difference?
Yes there is a slight difference which is not much noticeable because i've told difference will not much noticeable if u go from +30 to +50 or again +50 to +80/90.
But there will be a lot of difference when compared with standard bulb to +30 or +50.

When tested on my bike I found Philips Premium to be have slightly less lumen but not much noticeable, also its cost Rs.210 & 190 (at yamaha ASC) were Osram that cost Rs.140. It will be even less in your cities.

So which one would you rather buy and drive with? The answer depends on how well you want to see versus how often to change the bulb. If you want the best possible seeing, you pick the Plus-50 or Plus-90. If you don't care as long as it works and you don't want to hassle with it, you pick the long life.

Very good find paul ! My replies in color.

I also doubt that 840 lumen for low beam of halonix, something wrong. Got that from its website Phoenixlamps: Automotive M5

Not this bulb, i'm talking about Philips Germany. Got to know from this link, see post #1769

Hey Paul.. some really nice work out there. I can bet this is one of the best threads on xbhp. Lots and lots of effort and sharing.

After reducing the display brightness to minimum, I found Osram to have better illumination at high beam, whereas philips is better in low beam.

Tried this thing on photoshop.
But for me both are equal because if one would have less brightness it would have gone total dark. but both are still equally visible.
Philips might have more lumen on low.

So much technical things on this thread. Still have low rating.

Guys,
Now it had come the bad time for my bike, everything was running fine, bike was smooth like butter until my elder bro (came on 28th) driven my bike,
I told him to follow few things but he didn't listen up. Instead he angry on me. Thats hurts me a lot
Now when i drive today, feeling like bike had more vibration than before, tak tak noise also coming from racers when jerk (it had got loose), & less pickup, i mean less pulling capacity. Also i noticed one thing that handle is out of align a bit on the right, and when i'm hitting front brake the front wheel is fish tailing on the right a bit. Checked the play on the front wheel and there is a bit play thats probably indicating bearings are gone i think. These things probably indicating bike is driven fast and hitted to road breakers.
Also when checked the engine noise, i'm feeling like timing chain is gone. Therefore i'm getting less pickup hence less pulling capacity. The bike is not touching 40 as it was before. I'm cant enjoy the ride this way

Want to know, along with timing chain, which sprockets should also be changed??



My mechanic suggest that, if changing timing chain, number 5 & 13 should also be change. Is that true?
Is Diamond chain also come fake that i should aware of?? can this be ignored for a week?

Sir jee, you guys keep up the good work. This is 170 pages of quality content.
Don't worry about the ratings because the 5* threads are full of top speed checks, horns, 0-60 timings, coolant leak etc. No quality at all!
Frankly, I find only the Splendor and ZMA threads worthful ownership threads.

Are you still running on the duplicate T-chain ? Noisy timing chain and performance issue are not related.(Unless the timing chain has stretched a lot !!)
5 & 13 are rubber timing chain guides and should be replaced if worn or if it has cracks.(~Rs.50/- each)Original guides ,Under normal use it does not need any replacement and it lasts more than 80K kms. If the timing chain is heavily worn out then guides also wear out very fast.
If the new chain also makes noise then check (or replace)the tensioner spring. (~Rs.20/-)
No need to change any sprockets.