Actually the noise was coming when the engine was hot, when i started at cold, i didn't hear any abnormal noise. Its OE chain. I haven't change it yet.
Regrading racer, i adjusted it and realign the handle, and now its fine. Only bearings have slight play, and i think that would run easily.
So, if i need to change T-chain, i would need to change only chain, okay!

Also if you can re-pack the wheel bearings with grease , that should take up any slight play .

@ Paul, that low pickup can be caused by worn out clutch plates. I'm also having it, you know how my dad uses.. Err.. Abuses clutch plates. Now I can tell my bike has something missing. Clutch slip is not noticeable when riding, I only feel it when starting from stand still. Bike needs more revs than before. And do something to manage your bro. Don't let him ride your bike.. Hide bike keys, remove all air pressure from tyre etc..

And I find SKF(Rs.120/- for 1/2 kg tub),NRB and Veedol Multi-purpose grease excellent for automotive bearings.

Off-Topic
Silicone grease small pack (50gms) costs Rs.180/-
Application- Any part which needs to be greased and has a rubber boot like the sliding brake caliper pins. MP grease hardens the rubber over time and it also dries when it is exposed to atmosphere at high temperature.
I think it is a good investment considering that I have to lubricate the pins (of my Indigo)every 3 months if I use ordinary MP grease whereas a silicone grease would last for the entire life of brake pads.
Does anyone know what is the cost of Anti-seize.(If available in India)

lol what you are saying man, i cant do that at all, that effects relationship.
And u know that i've changed my clutch plates recently, i've shown u the old one, did u remember, don't you?
low pickup has nothing to do with my engine. I'll figure out that later. I also came to know yesterday that, tyre once had got punctured (when my bro took) and may pucture wala had given less air. And i guess low pickup has something to do with air pressure. So, will check the air pressure now.

@ Pinaki
My bearings always run greasy. I apply grease when opening wheels for any kinda work. But will re-check for sure.

replying after so many days.
@paul- regarding that osram bulb then my friend(spares retailer) had got 20 pcs. of same and i sold them in 2 days flat. That is awesome bulb. But what bulb you have posted as Philips Germany is not Germany but is printed so. Philips Germany bulbs are thinner than normal halogen and gives excellent output. My extreme has one and the light is very bright.Just look at headlight of new extreme and you will get to know. The new one cost Rs.280 at hero dealer.Timing chain use diamon/rolon or DID. If you do not get there call and i will send you original DID by courier.


@all- Do not remove bearing always to grease. My joy front bearing was first removed at 1.66 lac km and was changed and never have been touched again. My rear wheel bearing is fitted from factory and even after 3.2 lac km is not touched yet.
Why i am telling is that because hero unlike other companies mount the bearing on the aluminium hub. Other companies have steel insert where bearing is mounted. So after removing the bearings 5-6 times and fitting the aluminum wears out and then bearing becomes loose and only solution is to change the drum.
Silicon grease is very costly as the base is silicon and thus is expensive. Nothing to worry as 50 gm is more than enough for 1 year as for its area of application.

Good to see you posting after a long time,How is everything going ?

I had to change the rear wheel bearing once because grease was contaminated with water and was very hard to turn. But to my shock,the new replacement bearing did not want fit tightly. Later I used a cloth and I beat the edges of the bearing to make it a tight fit. It is running fine even after 3 years.
Less usage = More maintenance. Regular running = Less maintenance and every thing works great as intended.

puncture walas don't fit tyre, wheel, brakes etc nicely many times. Do check them all. Also, I don't think few jumps over potholes and speed breakers can cause bearing and other problems. Unless the speed of the vehicle is very high. @ shoeb, I almost died looking for cooper grease, anti seize, thread lock, silicon grease etc.. So performed the caliper service with soap water and bearing grease. Btw, don't you think greaseing slider pins every 3 months is too often? My alto needs it 2 times every year and my bike asked for it first time after 27000kms/ 3 yrs.

The grease which came from factory lasted three years (65,000 kms). Multipurpose lithium based grease does not withstand the heat generated by brakes for a long time(More severe cooling heating cycle on highway drives).Even if it does,rubber boot gets damaged. It results in caliper sticking and uneven wear of the brake pads. As sibun told, 50gms is more than enough.
Diesel engines don't produce much engine braking hence more stressed braking system in my Indigo.
Loctite should be available easily. All the service manuals of Maruti Suzuki are also sold at distributors unlike other manufactures(read TATA, Hyundai,honda.............)

I'm the unlucky guy who lives in a place where no body stocks things I need. and the things they stock are damn costly, like maruti service manual. Doing my DIYs with help of articles and videos available on the web. Lets see if anything happens to my brakes.. Btw, there are many people who are running with multipurpose grease in slider pins & boots. And there are many others who have rusted pistons and what not.. Edit: hey ehow.com says silicon grease is unfit on rubber parts!!

Wow , didn't know that it is so costly . Silicone grease is the right one for rubber o-rings and the like .. saw my watch service guy used it to grease the o-rings on my watches during service .
Anti-seize is copper grease (just oridinary grease with fine copper dust in it I think) - got a tube from NY visit, could not find here later on .
@ Honda_CBF - Threadlock is available here from Henkel ( brand name is loctite ) . Use the blue loctite on laptop screws . Cheap clear/colour nailpolish also works nicely - try it . Work side by side with customers at each stage - Henkel

Damn - did not know that . You know that one of my front wheel bearing was bad from factory on the new bike , the dealer argued too much so I said what the heck , and replaced both the front ones with NBC (6301 - both way rubber sealed) myself . That is the only time I have removed and refitted . Other wise I carefully pry out the outer rubber seals and clean the bearings best I can of the old grease, dry it nicely and then repack with fresh grease(castrol longlife) about once a year . Not remove the bearing as a whole from the wheel ever . Hope that's ok , nahi ?
Yes , nice to see your post after so long - hopefully everything going well with new assignment .

One of the front wheel bearings on my new bike was hardly turning and the wheel hub was heating up . Dealer kept arguing that it's normal , even after i demonstrated it to them that other new bikes (that was in for first service too) wasn't like that . So I bought the bearings myself and got them changed - who'll argue for ages for Rs 180 . Fitting the new one was clean and tight - no problems encountered . Used plenty of grease on axle, inside the hub and bearing mounts too . They have no axial play as yet .

Finally finished my stock of HeroHonda 10w30 and filled in the new Gulf Synth 10w30 last Sunday - oil is very smoooth(compared to a fresh fill of the HH oil) . But it's winter and too few miles to tell - shall report in details @ 2000 kms of it . Lets see if it can take the summer heat .

Apart from that I don't think the bearings can/should be reused after removing from the wheel. Once removed then it should be discarded.(Because we hit the center race to pop the bearings out,if outer race is hit-it can be reused)The bearings should be fit into place by hitting only the outer race of the bearing by equal pressure on all the sides. A suitable size socket can be used for this purpose.
As sibun rightly said, these bearings are interference fit and repeated removal and fitting will cause this area to expand and the bearing will not fit tightly.(been there done that )
(Pinaki ji I am using a picture of yours to show).
.

Right - if pressed out by striking the inner race , the bearing shall be destroyed and shouldn't be reused . Very few mechanics are able to drive out bearings unharmed by careful strikes on the outer race only , for which they use a long awl with correctly shaped tip from opposite side .
To drive in a new bearing , other than a suitable size socket , you can use the old bearing itself in the same way .

Usually tire puncture repair guys here use some plastic bags as packing to bearing , if it is not fixing tightly . Then they use hammer later to fit it with plastic . Though it would damage it but you have no choice .
Guys which tyre to go for passion front ? Using stock from begining its 11 years & 56000 kms old .
Also using spark plug from begining . Will also change it , which 1 to go ? Passion , Splendor , CD 100 ( All 3 first models ) uses same spark plug costing 59/- rupees . Is any other good option ?
And the first model cbz uses spark plug which costs 276/- rupees which was higher that any other spark plug from Hero's bike . What was special in it ? Any idea ?

You ran that long on that tyre !!??
For street running my choice is mrf nylogrip RIB or Zapper FS/FV/FM in front (in original size) . Cheap NGK CR7HSA plugs . After testing out a few different plugs , I can say that the costlier ones aren't remarakably better in any way and this cheap one just runs and runs with zero problems .